Starlight 43DM7500 - faulty Megmeet PSU, ATX 12V/5V or Vestel swap?

asenikonomov301 wrote:

Hello, I need help with a Starlight 43DM7500 with a HK.T.RT2861V09 mainboard, BOE HV430QUB-H11 tcon/screen and a Megmeet MP5055‐85V700 PSU. The issue is that the PSU is faulty and someone has unsucce...

Initial assessment of available information

Your original PSU is not just a “12 V supply”. From the connector labels you posted it provides:

Connector	Signals	Function
1	V12, GND, V5, STB, PS-ON	Mainboard supply/control
2	GND, V24	Likely 24 V rail, usually audio amplifier supply on this class of TV
3	GND, ADJ, BK	Backlight dimming and backlight enable control
LED connector	LED output	High-voltage constant-current LED drive

So the original supply performs four jobs: standby/main low-voltage supply, 12 V logic/panel supply, 24 V audio supply, and constant-current LED backlight drive.

Given the primary-side burning, missing SMD part, and multiple shorted secondary diodes, I agree that repairing this exact PSU is probably not economical unless you have a donor board or full schematic. More importantly, before installing any replacement supply, check that the mainboard, panel/T-CON and LED strips are not shorted, otherwise the replacement can fail immediately.

---

Direct answer to the question

Best option: find an exact or very close replacement for the original Megmeet MP5055-85V700, or a donor PSU from the same chassis/TV family.

Second-best option: transplant the Vestel set, i.e. 17IPS72 + 17MB130P, but only after confirming the BOE panel interface, panel voltage, firmware/profile and LED current.

Worst option for permanent use: powering the original HK.T.RT2861V09 from a PC ATX PSU and using a separate LED driver. It is acceptable for a bench test, but I would not recommend it as a closed-case permanent repair unless rebuilt with proper fusing, isolation, standby sequencing, mechanical mounting and a correctly rated constant-current LED driver.

So, between your two proposed options: the Vestel transplant is the better and safer permanent solution, but it has a real risk of panel firmware/backlight mismatch. The ATX PSU solution is simpler for testing the original mainboard but is the least professional and least safe as a final repair.

---

Detailed problem analysis

1. Option 1: Original HK.T.RT2861V09 powered from external supplies

Technically, the HK.T.RT2861V09 can probably be powered from external DC rails if you provide the correct 5 V and 12 V lines, and the BOE panel/T-CON will most likely receive its panel supply through the mainboard. Public service information for this board family also indicates 12 V as a main input rail, which is consistent with your connector labeling. (onetv-srt.com)

However, there are several catches.

Missing 24 V rail

If you do not provide the V24 rail:

- The TV may still boot and show picture.
- The audio amplifier will probably not work.
- In some chassis the software may detect missing 24 V/audio power and mute, protect, or behave strangely, although many budget TV mainboards do not hard-block video operation only because 24 V is absent.

So for a “monitor only” repair, no 24 V may be acceptable. For a proper TV repair with sound, you should provide a separate 24 V rail or a DC-DC boost converter rated for the audio load. For a 43-inch TV, I would normally allow at least 24 V / 2 A for the audio rail, more if the original speakers are high power.

PC ATX PSU control mismatch

A PC ATX PSU is awkward here. ATX PS_ON is active-low, meaning the PSU turns on when the PS_ON wire is pulled to ground. The microATX/ATX specification describes PS_ON as an active-low TTL signal. (studylib.net)

TV PS-ON lines are usually the opposite: the mainboard sends a high logic level, commonly 3.3 V or 5 V, to command the TV PSU to turn on the main outputs. A Megmeet PSU specification for a similar multi-output supply describes PS-ON as active-high TTL, with standby present before the main outputs are enabled, which matches typical TV PSU behavior. (electronica-usa.com)

Therefore, if you want the TV mainboard to control an ATX PSU, you need an inverter stage, for example:

- NPN transistor:
- emitter to GND,
- collector to ATX green PS_ON wire,
- base via 4.7 kΩ to 10 kΩ from TV PS-ON,
- optional 47 kΩ base-emitter resistor.
- When TV PS-ON goes high, transistor pulls ATX PS_ON low, and the ATX PSU starts.

But there is a sequencing problem: the TV mainboard needs standby 5 V before it can generate PS-ON. You would therefore need either:

1. ATX purple +5VSB to power the TV standby 5 V rail, then switch the ATX main rails after PS-ON; or
2. a separate always-on 5 V standby supply; or
3. leave the ATX PSU permanently on, which I do not recommend.

Also, do not simply parallel ATX +5VSB and ATX main +5 V unless you use diodes, ideal-diode ORing, or relay switching. Back-feeding one 5 V source from another is bad practice.

The STB pin

Do not randomly force the STB pin high or low until you know its function on this exact board. It could be:

- standby status,
- power-good feedback,
- standby command,
- or another logic signal.

Start by leaving it unconnected if using external supplies. If the board does not start, trace it on the mainboard or compare with the original PSU circuit. If it is only a logic input, a pull-up via 10 kΩ may be acceptable, but do not guess blindly.

Backlight driver requirement

The backlight must be driven by a constant-current LED driver, not by a fixed-voltage PSU. The marking 85V700 strongly suggests an LED output around 85 V at 700 mA, but you should treat that only as a clue until verified by LED strip testing or PSU documentation.

For testing and LED lifetime, I would start below the presumed original current, for example:

- 300 mA to 450 mA for first tests,
- increase only if necessary,
- avoid running old 43-inch strips at full rated current if you want longevity.

The original CN3 labels you posted are likely:

Original signal	Meaning
BK	Backlight ON/OFF, active-high
ADJ	Dimming, PWM or analog
GND	Logic reference

Your external LED driver should share ground with the mainboard. BK can usually drive the EN/BL_ON input. ADJ may or may not be compatible depending on whether the driver expects 3.3 V PWM, 5 V PWM, analog 0–3.3 V, or analog 0–5 V.

Safety problem with ATX conversion

A PC PSU can deliver very high fault current. If a short develops on the TV mainboard, the ATX PSU may not limit current gently; it can burn tracks or wiring before shutting down. If you use this method even temporarily, add fuses:

Rail	Suggested initial protection
5 V	2 A to 5 A fuse/polyfuse
12 V	2 A to 5 A fuse
24 V, if added	1.5 A to 3 A fuse
LED output	rely on CC driver protection, but set current conservatively

For a permanent repair, the external supply must be mechanically fixed, insulated from the metalwork, ventilated, strain-relieved, fused on mains input, and protected against contact. A loose ATX PSU or open-frame LED booster inside a TV cabinet is not acceptable.

---

2. Option 2: Vestel 17IPS72 + 17MB130P transplant

This is a cleaner hardware solution because the 17IPS72 already provides the TV-style PSU rails and integrated LED driver, and the 17MB130P is a complete TV mainboard. The 17IPS72 is commonly used with 43-inch Vestel UHD sets and is listed with 17MB130/17MB130P and VES430QNDL-type panels. (piese-servicelcd.ro)

However, this option has two serious compatibility areas: panel interface/firmware and backlight current.

Panel interface

The BOE HV430QUB-H11 is listed as a 43-inch panel using V-by-One, 8 lanes. (revo.tech) Closely related BOE HV430QUB variants are commonly 51-pin, 12 V V-by-One panels, but you should not assume pinout identity without checking the actual H11 datasheet or measuring the panel cable/power pins. (panelook.com)

The donor Vestel panel code VES43QNDL-2D-N11 / VES430QNDL-2D-N11 is a 43-inch UHD Vestel panel code, but that does not automatically mean it is electrically identical to your BOE panel. Vestel uses many panel profiles under the same board family, and firmware/profile matching is important on 17MB130 boards. (elektroda.com)

Before connecting the BOE panel to the Vestel mainboard, verify:

- V-by-One connector pin count.
- Pin 1 orientation.
- Panel supply voltage: should be 12 V, not 5 V.
- 12 V pins and GND pins are in the same positions.
- No 12 V pin from the Vestel cable lands on a signal pin of the BOE panel.
- Lane count and cable type are compatible.
- T-CON fuse on the BOE panel is not shorted.

A V-by-One connector can physically fit and still be wrong enough to damage the T-CON.

Firmware/panel profile risk

Even if the connector is correct, the 17MB130P must output the correct panel timing/profile.

Possible symptoms of wrong panel profile:

- no image,
- backlight on but black screen,
- image split into halves,
- wrong colors,
- unstable image,
- upside-down or mirrored image,
- intermittent V-by-One lock.

For V-by-One panels, the issue is less the old LVDS “JEIDA/VESA” problem and more:

- lane mapping,
- bit depth,
- timing parameters,
- spread-spectrum/clock settings,
- panel initialization,
- color order,
- inversion/mapping options.

You may need firmware, NAND/SPI content, or a USB recovery/profile package for a Vestel 17MB130P set that used the same BOE HV430QUB-H11 or an officially compatible BOE panel code. Using firmware only because it says “17MB130P” is not enough.

Backlight current on 17IPS72

The 17IPS72 LED driver must match your BOE LED strips. Different 17IPS72 revisions use different LED driver controllers and current-setting networks. Repair notes for 17IPS72 mention variants with OB3363 and MP3394-type LED controllers, with current set by resistors on the ISET/current-sense network. (elforum.info)

If the Vestel PSU came from a panel with different LED string voltage/current, three things can happen:

Mismatch	Result
Current too high	LED strips overheat, blue tint, early failure
Voltage range too low	Backlight flashes then shuts down
String wiring different	No backlight or LED driver protection trip

So before using the Vestel PSU with the BOE backlight:

1. Test BOE LED strips with an LED tester.
2. Note working voltage at a safe current.
3. Compare with 17IPS72 LED output range.
4. Set LED current lower rather than higher.
5. If needed, modify the current-setting resistors, but only after identifying the exact 17IPS72 revision and LED controller.

---

Comparison of your two proposed options

Criterion	Original board + ATX/external supplies	Vestel 17IPS72 + 17MB130P
Electrical cleanliness	Poor to medium	Good if donor set is complete
Safety as permanent repair	Poor unless heavily reworked	Better, closer to OEM
24 V audio	Missing unless added	Usually available
Backlight control	Requires separate CC driver	Integrated, but current must match
Panel compatibility	Original panel firmware retained	Main risk: panel profile mismatch
Remote/buttons/software	Original retained	May require donor IR/keypad/remote
Mechanical work	Awkward	Also requires mounting/adaptation
Best use case	Bench test	Permanent transplant if panel works

My preference: Vestel transplant over ATX, but OEM PSU replacement over both.

---

Other options you should consider

Option 3: Exact PSU replacement

This is the best route if you can find it. Search for:

- Megmeet MP5055-85V700,
- the exact PCB revision,
- Starlight 43DM7500 donor PSU,
- donor TV using HK.T.RT2861V09 + BOE HV430QUB-H11.

Be careful with supplies marked similarly, such as “70V1000”. A 70 V / 1000 mA LED driver version is not automatically a direct substitute for an 85 V / 700 mA version. It may have different LED voltage range and higher LED current. It is only acceptable if the connector pinout, standby/main rails and LED current/voltage are compatible or adjustable.

Option 4: Universal TV PSU, not PC ATX

A better “hybrid” solution than ATX would be a universal LCD/LED TV PSU providing:

- 5 V standby,
- 12 V main,
- 24 V audio,
- active-high PS_ON input,
- BL_ON and ADJ/PWM backlight control,
- LED constant-current output adjustable around the BOE strip requirement.

This keeps the original HK.T.RT2861V09 and original panel firmware while avoiding the ugly ATX sequencing problem.

Option 5: Universal 4K V-by-One controller

You could use a universal 4K V-by-One controller programmed for BOE HV430QUB-H11, plus a separate PSU/backlight driver. This may be useful if you only want a monitor, but you lose the original TV software, tuner behavior, remote mapping and smart functions.

---

Practical guidelines before powering anything

1. Check for shorts first
- V5 to GND.
- V12 to GND.
- V24 to GND.
- Panel/T-CON 12 V fuse to GND.
- LED connector for short/open strings.

2. Use current-limited bench supplies for first startup
- Start 5 V with low current limit.
- Then add 12 V.
- Watch whether PS-ON changes when you press power.
- Do not connect the panel until you are confident the mainboard rails are correct.

3. Do not feed the BOE panel from the Vestel board until pinout is confirmed
- Especially 12 V and GND pins.
- A wrong V-by-One cable can kill the panel.

4. Backlight must be constant-current
- Never use a fixed 85 V supply directly on LED strips.
- Start with reduced current.

5. Fuse every improvised rail
- Especially when using ATX or high-current supplies.

6. Respect LED output voltage
- The LED rail can be around 80–150 V DC depending on string design.
- It is not harmless low voltage.

---

Brief summary

- Safest and best: replace the Megmeet MP5055-85V700 with the same PSU or a verified compatible equivalent.
- Best of your two proposed choices: Vestel 17IPS72 + 17MB130P, but only after checking BOE panel pinout, firmware/profile compatibility and LED current.
- ATX PSU method: acceptable for testing the original mainboard, not recommended as a permanent internal repair. Missing 24 V likely means no audio, and the standby/PS_ON/backlight sequencing is awkward.
- Do not assume VES43QNDL-2D-N11 and BOE HV430QUB-H11 are interchangeable only because both are 43-inch 4K panels. Verify V-by-One pinout and panel firmware.

If you can post photos of the BOE panel connector area, the Vestel LVDS/V-by-One cable, and the LED strip label or LED tester voltage/current reading, it would be possible to judge the Vestel transplant much more confidently.

asenikonomov301 wrote:

According to some information I found, the Vestel code most likely refers to LC430EQY-SHM1 and 6870C-0552A T-Con. What is more, this code can also refer to a BOE Panel, specifically HV430QUB-N1A with ...

Initial assessment

Your additional information makes the Vestel 17IPS72 + 17MB130P transplant much more plausible than before, but I would still treat it as a controlled experiment, not as a guaranteed plug-and-play conversion.

The important point is this: VES430QNDL-2D-N11 is a Vestel panel/profile/assembly code, not necessarily a single immutable LCD glass type. It can appear in spare-part listings with a 17MB130P mainboard, and at least one parts listing associates 17MB130P + VES430QNDL-2D-N11 with an LG Display T-Con 6870C-series board. (piese-servicelcd.ro) Other repair/firmware discussions also confirm that Vestel boards with VES430QNDL-2D-N11 need the correct panel profile/PQ data; a wrong profile can boot but give no picture, unclear picture, wrong orientation, or other image errors. (elforum.info)

So your conclusion is reasonable: if Vestel used both LG Display and BOE 43-inch UHD V-by-One panels under closely related or identical VES430QNDL-2D-N11 configurations, then the 17MB130P has a fair chance of driving your BOE HV430QUB-H11. But the risk is still not zero.

---

Direct answer

Given that:

- the original Megmeet MP5055-85V700 PSU is badly damaged,
- replacement units are rare/expensive,
- the HK.T.RT2861V09 mainboard has no obvious shorts,
- the BOE T-Con fuse is good,
- and the Vestel donor set is already for 17MB130P + 17IPS72 + VES430QNDL-2D-N11,

I would now rank the options like this:

Option	Recommendation
Exact Megmeet PSU replacement	Best electrically, but not practical if unavailable/overpriced
Universal TV PSU + original HK.T.RT2861V09	Technically good if done properly
Vestel 17IPS72 + 17MB130P transplant	Now a realistic and probably worthwhile route
PC ATX PSU + separate backlight driver	Suitable only for bench testing, not preferred as final repair

So yes: the Vestel solution is now worth trying, provided you verify the V-by-One connector power pins and backlight current before full power-up.

I would not say “guaranteed”, but I would upgrade it from “slight chance” to a reasonable chance.

---

Detailed problem analysis

1. What your new panel-code information suggests

The panel originally used with your Vestel donor board is VES430QNDL-2D-N11. Spare-part and repair references confirm that this panel code appears with 17MB130P/17IPS72 combinations. (piese-servicelcd.ro) There are also references associating this code with LG Display T-Con 6870C-series boards, especially 6870C-0552A / 6871L-4024 variants. (tvparcalari.com)

Your BOE panel is HV430QUB-H11. Related BOE HV430QUB variants are 43-inch UHD V-by-One panels; for example, accessible panel database snippets list HV430QUB-N1A as using V-by-One 8 lanes, 51-pin connector, 12 V panel supply, and the same database category lists HV430QUB-H11 as a 43-inch 3840×2160 V-by-One BOE panel. (panelook.com)

This is encouraging because the critical common features are likely:

- 43-inch UHD resolution: 3840 × 2160,
- 60 Hz-class timing,
- V-by-One HS interface,
- 8-lane data link,
- 51-pin FFC connection,
- 12 V T-Con/panel supply.

If these match, the Vestel board may boot and produce a correct picture on the BOE panel.

However, there are still three possible mismatch areas:

1. Power-pin orientation/pinout
- This is the dangerous one.
- Wrong 12 V/GND/data pin alignment can kill the T-Con.

2. V-by-One lane mapping/timing
- This is usually not destructive.
- It may cause no picture, split image, wrong colors, flicker, or loss of lock.

3. Panel profile/PQ data
- Vestel software often relies on correct panel tables.
- Firmware discussions for VES430QNDL-2D-N11 specifically mention that the correct panel profile/PQ file is needed; wrong software can give “backlight on, no picture” or corrupted image. (elektroda.de)

So your reasoning is good, but do not skip the electrical checks.

---

Is it possible that 17MB130P can run both LG Display and BOE panels?

Yes, that is possible.

In mass-produced TVs, especially Vestel/OEM chassis, the same commercial TV model or closely related model can be built with panels from different suppliers if the panels share a common electrical interface and the firmware contains suitable profiles. The mainboard does not necessarily “know” or care whether the glass is LG Display or BOE if the T-Con accepts the same V-by-One format and the timing parameters are compatible.

But there are two cases:

Case A: Same profile works for both panels

This is the ideal case. If both the LG Display LC430EQY-SHM1/T-Con 6870C-0552A and BOE HV430QUB-N1A/H11 variants were selected to be electrically interchangeable, then your 17MB130P may work directly with the BOE HV430QUB-H11.

Likely result:

- normal picture,
- normal colors,
- normal orientation,
- no firmware change needed.

Case B: Same connector, different panel profile required

This is also common. The TV may power the panel safely, but the image may be wrong.

Possible symptoms:

- backlight on, no image,
- image doubled or split,
- vertical/horizontal noise,
- wrong colors,
- solarized image,
- inverted or mirrored picture,
- boot logo visible but unstable image.

In that case, you would need the correct Vestel panel profile/PQ data for the BOE variant. On Vestel boards this can involve:

- USB profile update,
- full firmware package,
- panel profile file,
- service menu panel setting,
- or SPI/NAND programming, depending on the exact software state.

Before experimenting with firmware, make a dump of the original SPI/NAND contents from the 17MB130P if possible.

---

The most important check: 51-pin V-by-One connector safety

Before connecting the BOE T-Con to the 17MB130P, do this:

Step 1: Identify 12 V pins on the BOE T-Con

With the BOE panel disconnected from power:

1. Locate the T-Con fuse.
2. Use continuity mode from the fuse input to the 51-pin connector.
3. Mark which pins on the 51-pin connector are panel VCC.
4. Confirm that these are 12 V input pins, not 5 V.

Step 2: Identify GND pins

Use continuity mode from connector pins to the T-Con ground plane, shielding, screw holes, or electrolytic capacitor negative terminals.

Step 3: Check the Vestel cable

On the 17MB130P side:

1. Identify which pins deliver panel 12 V.
2. Identify GND pins.
3. Make sure the Vestel cable maps 12 V to the BOE T-Con 12 V pins.
4. Make sure no 12 V pin lands on a V-by-One signal pin.

This is the single most important safety test.

If the 12 V and GND pins line up, then a wrong video profile is unlikely to destroy the panel. It may simply produce no image or bad image.

---

Safer first-power method

If you want to reduce the risk further, do the first test like this:

1. Disconnect the backlight from the 17IPS72.
2. Connect 17MB130P to 17IPS72 normally.
3. Connect the BOE T-Con V-by-One cable only after verifying pinout.
4. If possible, insert a small fuse in the T-Con 12 V feed, for example:
- 500 mA for first test,
- then 1 A if needed.
5. Alternatively, isolate the T-Con 12 V pins and feed the T-Con from a bench supply set to:
- 12 V,
- current limit 300–500 mA initially.
6. Power the set and observe:
- standby LED,
- panel 12 V current,
- whether the T-Con DC-DC converters start,
- whether the screen shows image with a flashlight or with backlight later connected.

This method prevents a wrong cable or T-Con fault from dumping the full PSU current into the panel.

---

Backlight issue: do not disregard it if using 17IPS72

For the original HK.T.RT2861V09 test you can disregard the LED connector temporarily, but for the Vestel transplant the backlight becomes important again.

The original PSU code MP5055-85V700 strongly suggests an LED driver variant around 85 V / 700 mA, although that marking should not be treated as a full specification without measuring. The VES430QNDL-2D-N11 backlight is commonly sold as a 4-strip set, but your BOE panel’s internal LED string arrangement may still differ. (elecok.com)

Before using the 17IPS72 LED output:

1. Test the BOE LED strips with an LED tester.
2. Note:
- total forward voltage,
- number of channels/strings,
- connector polarity,
- approximate working current.
3. Compare with the 17IPS72 LED connector and driver configuration.
4. Start at reduced backlight level.

Many Vestel 17IPS72 supplies run the LEDs quite hard. If brightness is excessive or LED current is high, reduce the LED current in hardware by modifying the LED driver current-setting resistor network. Do this only after identifying the exact LED driver IC on your 17IPS72 revision, for example MP3394/OB336x-type variants.

A conservative target for an older 43-inch panel is often better than factory current. For example:

Use case	Suggested LED current approach
First test	Lowest stable current
Normal use	60–75% of original current
Maximum brightness	Only if strips are known healthy and cooling is good

Do not drive the backlight with a fixed-voltage PSU. It must be a constant-current LED driver.

---

What your “no shorts” test tells us

The fact that the HK.T.RT2861V09 has no shorts and the BOE T-Con fuse is good is a good sign. It means the original PSU probably did not obviously destroy the load side.

However, it does not fully prove that everything is healthy. You should still check:

- resistance from 12 V panel rail to GND,
- resistance from 5 V rail to GND,
- resistance from 12 V main rail to GND,
- T-Con DC-DC outputs after power-up:
- AVDD,
- VGH,
- VGL,
- VCOM,
- gamma reference ladder,
- LED strip condition.

A T-Con can have a good fuse but still have a failed DC-DC converter or shorted ceramic capacitor downstream. Your current-limited first power test will reveal this safely.

---

Should you still test the original HK.T.RT2861V09?

Yes, but only as a diagnostic step.

Since the original mainboard and T-Con do not show shorts, I would briefly test them with external current-limited supplies before committing fully to the Vestel transplant.

For a bench test:

Rail	Test supply
V5	5.0 V current-limited
V12	12.0 V current-limited
V24	Leave disconnected initially
Backlight	Separate LED tester/driver or leave off and use flashlight test

You can power the mainboard with 5 V and 12 V and check whether:

- standby LED reacts,
- PS-ON changes state,
- BK/BL-ON appears,
- ADJ/PWM appears,
- T-Con receives 12 V,
- image exists with flashlight test.

But I would not build the final TV around a PC ATX PSU unless there is no better alternative. ATX supplies have the wrong standby/control philosophy, high available fault current, poor integration with TV BL-ON/ADJ signals, and no native constant-current LED driver.

---

Recommended decision

Given your current situation, I would proceed as follows:

Recommended path

1. Bench-test the original HK.T.RT2861V09 briefly
- Use current-limited 5 V and 12 V.
- No 24 V needed for basic video test.
- Confirm whether the original mainboard and BOE T-Con are alive.

2. If original mainboard works, decide between:
- universal TV PSU + LED driver, keeping original electronics,
- or Vestel transplant.

3. Try the Vestel transplant
- Because your new information makes it technically credible.
- But verify the V-by-One 12 V/GND pinout first.

4. Use the Vestel IR/keypad/remote
- The original Starlight IR/keypad may not match the Vestel mainboard pinout or remote protocol.

5. Check and possibly reduce 17IPS72 backlight current
- Especially if the BOE strips are old.

---

Practical verdict

Your information is meaningful. It suggests that the Vestel board may not be limited strictly to one LG Display panel, but rather to a compatible 43-inch UHD V-by-One 8-lane 12 V panel class. Therefore, the 17MB130P + 17IPS72 transplant is worth attempting.

The two things that can cause real damage are:

1. wrong V-by-One power pin alignment, and
2. wrong LED backlight current/voltage arrangement.

The things that usually only cause non-destructive failure are:

- wrong panel timing,
- wrong lane mapping,
- wrong PQ/profile data,
- wrong orientation/color mapping.

So my advice is:

Do not abandon the Vestel option. It is now your most realistic repair route. But do the first connection as an electrical compatibility test, not as a blind plug-in.

Brief summary

- Your research increases the likelihood that the Vestel 17MB130P can run your BOE panel.
- The VES430QNDL-2D-N11 code is associated with 17MB130P boards and LG Display 6870C-series T-Cons in parts/repair references.
- BOE HV430QUB family panels are also 43-inch UHD V-by-One types, with related variants using 8 lanes, 51 pins and 12 V supply.
- Still verify the 51-pin connector pinout before power-up.
- Check the LED strips and reduce 17IPS72 LED current if necessary.
- Use the Vestel transplant rather than a PC PSU as the final repair.

asenikonomov301 wrote:

https://obrazki.elektroda.pl/4477611800_1785419058.png https://obrazki.elektroda.pl/2499250700_1785419058.png
So, I do not have access to a lab power supply, but I do have a universal power adapter ...

Direct answer

The pictures are good enough for a preliminary connector comparison. From what can be read, the critical V-by-One high-speed section matches very well, and the 12 V panel supply area also appears to match. This means the Vestel 17MB130P swap is not a blind gamble anymore; electrically, the panel connector looks broadly compatible.

However, there is one important caution:

> The lower V-by-One lanes and the main 12 V/GND pins appear compatible, but the option/control pins around pins 28–38 need checking carefully, especially pin 38, because in your Realtek/Innolux connector drawing pin 38 appears to be GND, while in the Vestel drawing it seems to be marked as an option pin, OP_PIN38.

That mismatch is not necessarily fatal, but I would not ignore it. If pin 38 on the BOE T-Con side is really hard-grounded and the Vestel board drives OP_PIN38 high, you could be shorting a GPIO/output line to ground. Usually that would not kill the panel, but it could stress or damage the mainboard output.

So: yes, the Vestel swap is worth continuing, but do not connect it until you verify pin 1 orientation, power pins, grounds and the pin 38 situation with a multimeter.

---

Connector comparison from the pictures

Assuming the first picture is the Vestel 17MB130P CN104 V-by-One connector, and the second picture is the HK.T.RT2861V09 / Innolux-type connector, the comparison looks like this:

Pin area	HK.T.RT2861V09 / Innolux drawing	Vestel 17MB130P drawing	Comment
51–44	12 V	PANEL_VCC	Appears compatible. Verify that Vestel really has 12 V here.
43	NC	likely NC / unused	Not critical if truly NC.
42–39	GND	GND area	Appears compatible.
38	GND in your Realtek/Innolux drawing	OP_PIN38 in Vestel drawing	Potential mismatch. Check this carefully.
37–28	L/R, 2D/3D, SDA/SCL, LD_EN, 8b/10b etc.	OP_PIN37…OP_PIN28	Electrically low-speed option/control pins. May require correct panel profile.
27	HTPDN	VBY_HTPDN	Compatible.
26	LOCKN	VBY_LOCKN	Compatible.
25	GND	GND	Compatible.
24–23	RX0N/RX0P	VBY_0N/VBY_0P	Compatible.
22	GND	GND	Compatible.
21–20	RX1N/RX1P	VBY_1N/VBY_1P	Compatible.
19	GND	GND	Compatible.
18–17	RX2N/RX2P	VBY_2N/VBY_2P	Compatible.
16	GND	GND	Compatible.
15–14	RX3N/RX3P	VBY_3N/VBY_3P	Compatible.
13	GND	GND	Compatible.
12–11	RX4N/RX4P	VBY_4N/VBY_4P	Compatible.
10	GND	GND	Compatible.
9–8	RX5N/RX5P	VBY_5N/VBY_5P	Compatible.
7	GND	GND	Compatible.
6–5	RX6N/RX6P	VBY_6N/VBY_6P	Compatible.
4	GND	GND	Compatible.
3–2	RX7N/RX7P	VBY_7N/VBY_7P	Compatible.
1	GND	GND	Compatible.

The most encouraging part is that the V-by-One lane order and polarity appear to match:

- pin 24 = RX0N / VBY_0N,
- pin 23 = RX0P / VBY_0P,
- pin 21 = RX1N,
- pin 20 = RX1P,
- and so on down to lane 7.

That is very good. If the lane order or polarity were different, the board would probably not lock to the T-Con.

---

The main problem area: pins 28–38

The Vestel board labels pins 28–38 as generic OP_PINxx lines. That usually means they are configurable panel option pins controlled by the firmware/panel profile.

On the Realtek/Innolux connector, those same pins are named more explicitly:

Pin	Realtek/Innolux function
38	GND
37	L/R_O
36	L/R
35	2D/3D
34	SDA / NC
33	SCL
32	NC / SDA
31	NC / SCN_EN
30	LD_EN
29	NC
28	8b_10b / NC

This means the Vestel board may be able to configure those pins correctly depending on the panel profile. That is probably why the same 17MB130P hardware can be used with several different 43-inch UHD panels.

But there are two separate issues here:

1. Non-dangerous compatibility issue

If the OP pins are not configured correctly, the panel may show:

- no picture,
- wrong scan direction,
- mirrored image,
- wrong colors,
- unstable image,
- picture only after warm-up,
- backlight on but no visible image.

This is usually firmware/profile-related and not immediately destructive.

2. Possible electrical issue at pin 38

Pin 38 is more important because your Realtek/Innolux drawing shows it as GND, whereas the Vestel drawing appears to show OP_PIN38.

Before connecting the panel, do this:

1. With the BOE panel/T-Con unpowered, measure continuity from pin 38 of the panel connector to chassis/T-Con ground.
2. If pin 38 is hard-grounded, then measure pin 38 on the Vestel board with the panel disconnected.
3. Power the Vestel board without the panel connected and measure DC voltage on pin 38 relative to ground.
4. If Vestel pin 38 stays at 0 V or is clearly ground, no problem.
5. If Vestel pin 38 outputs 3.3 V, isolate pin 38 in the FFC cable.

The simplest safe workaround is to cover conductor 38 on the FFC with a tiny strip of Kapton tape, or otherwise prevent pin 38 from contacting the Vestel connector. Since the panel has many other ground pins, losing one additional ground at pin 38 should not normally matter.

---

Very important: check cable orientation

Even if the schematic pinouts match, the physical cable can still destroy the panel if it is mirrored.

You must verify:

- pin 1 on Vestel CN104 goes to pin 1 on the T-Con,
- pin 51 goes to pin 51,
- the FFC contact side is correct,
- you are not using a reversed cable where pin 1 becomes pin 51.

This is critical. If the cable is reversed, the 12 V pins at 44–51 could land on ground or signal pins. That can instantly kill the T-Con or the mainboard panel power switch.

Do not rely only on the cable shape. Check with a multimeter in continuity mode.

---

About your 12 V / 2 A and 5 V / 1 A adapters

For the Vestel swap, you normally do not need those adapters. The 17IPS72 should power the 17MB130P directly.

However, they can still be useful for limited testing of the original HK.T.RT2861V09 board.

Testing the original HK.T.RT2861V09 board

Your adapters are probably enough for a basic no-backlight test:

Rail	Adapter	Comment
V5	5 V / 1 A	May be enough for standby/basic boot, but can be marginal.
V12	12 V / 2 A	Usually enough for mainboard + T-Con logic without backlight/audio.
V24	none	Audio amplifier probably will not work. Not needed for picture test.

If you test the original board:

- connect all GNDs together,
- connect all V5 pins together to the 5 V adapter,
- connect all V12 pins together to the 12 V adapter,
- leave V24 disconnected,
- do not force PS-ON or BK unless you know their direction,
- use fuses if possible.

A 5 V / 1 A adapter is not a proper current-limited lab supply. If there is a fault, it may shut down, oscillate, or briefly deliver more current than expected. It is better than a large ATX PSU, but still not ideal.

For first power, I would put at least:

- 1 A fuse in the 5 V line,
- 2 A fuse in the 12 V line.

Even simple automotive blade fuses are better than nothing.

---

Suggested safe test sequence for the Vestel swap

Step 1: Power the Vestel boards without panel or backlight

Connect only:

- 17IPS72,
- 17MB130P,
- keypad/IR if available,
- speakers optional,
- no panel,
- no backlight.

Power it and check whether the board starts normally. Then measure at CN104:

Pin group	Expected
44–51	12 V when panel power is enabled
39–42	GND
1, 4, 7, 10, 13, 16, 19, 22, 25	GND
26	LOCKN line, usually logic-level feedback
27	HTPDN line
28–38	option/control pins, usually 0 V or 3.3 V depending firmware

If the board outputs 5 V instead of 12 V on the panel VCC pins, stop. Your BOE T-Con expects 12 V according to the connector drawing.

Step 2: Check the BOE T-Con connector

With the BOE panel disconnected and unpowered:

- pins 44–51 should connect to the T-Con fuse or panel VCC input,
- pins 1, 4, 7, 10, 13, 16, 19, 22, 25, 39–42 should be ground,
- check whether pin 38 is also ground.

Step 3: Resolve pin 38

If BOE pin 38 is ground and Vestel pin 38 is a driven OP output, isolate pin 38.

This is a small modification and is much safer than hoping the GPIO survives being shorted to ground.

Step 4: Connect the panel, but leave backlight disconnected initially

After confirming pinout and cable direction, connect the V-by-One cable.

First test without the backlight connected. If the TV starts, use a flashlight against the screen to check whether an image is present. Sometimes this is difficult on UHD panels, but you may see a menu, logo or raster.

If the Vestel PSU shuts down because it detects missing LEDs, then you may have to connect the backlight for a short test, but only after checking the LED connector and polarity.

---

Backlight caution

Do not assume the BOE backlight is compatible with the 17IPS72 LED output just because both are 43-inch panels.

Your original Megmeet model marking MP5055-85V700 strongly suggests an LED driver variant around 85 V / 700 mA. The Vestel 17IPS72 may be set for a different LED current or string arrangement.

Before connecting the BOE LED strips to the 17IPS72:

1. Compare LED connector pinout.
2. Check whether the BOE backlight has one string, two strings, or multiple returns.
3. Check polarity.
4. If possible, reduce the 17IPS72 backlight current before long-term use.
5. Do not run it at full brightness during first tests.

A wrong panel signal pinout usually gives no picture. A wrong LED current can destroy the backlight strips.

---

Practical verdict

Based on the two connector drawings:

The Vestel 17MB130P panel connector is close enough to your BOE/Innolux-type V-by-One connector that I would proceed with the swap.

But I would proceed in this order:

1. Verify FFC orientation: pin 1 to pin 1.
2. Verify 12 V pins: 44–51.
3. Verify grounds.
4. Investigate pin 38.
5. Power the Vestel board without the panel and measure CN104.
6. Connect the panel only after the measurements are correct.
7. Treat backlight compatibility separately.

The most likely outcome if the panel profile is not perfect is no image or wrong image, not immediate destruction, provided the 12 V/GND pins and cable orientation are correct.

Brief summary

- The V-by-One data lanes match very well.
- The 12 V supply area appears compatible.
- Pins 28–38 are the uncertain area.
- Pin 38 is the only pin that looks potentially concerning from the drawings.
- Your 12 V/2 A and 5 V/1 A adapters are usable for limited testing, but they are not a replacement for a protected lab supply.
- For the Vestel swap, test the 17MB130P + 17IPS72 first without the panel, measure CN104, then connect the BOE panel only after confirming pinout and cable orientation.

asenikonomov301 wrote:

But now, there is another option. I just got a Samsung 43AU7092 with parts inside: MAIN BOARD SU2E_JDM BN96-43051, POWER BOARD 3IN1_Kant_Su2e_TPV_43, TCON BOARD HV430QUBF70, PANEL TPT430WR-QUBF70.K(me...

Initial assessment

The Samsung donor is interesting and potentially very useful, but I would not call it a direct plug-and-play upgrade yet. It is better than the PC-PSU workaround and could be better than the Vestel swap in terms of firmware/panel-family matching, but there is one major warning:

> The Samsung donor panel/T-Con HV430QUB-F70 appears to use a different 51-pin V-by-One pin assignment from the connector layout you previously showed for the Starlight BOE/HK.T.RT2861V09 “Innolux-type” connection.

That means: do not connect the Samsung V-by-One cable directly to your Starlight BOE HV430QUB-H11 T-Con until the pinout is mapped.

The Samsung donor set is real and consistent with your description: parts listings show a Samsung AU709x 43-inch set using mainboard BN96-43051E, T-Con HV430QUBF70, power supply 3IN1_KANT_SU2E_TPV_43, and panel/display TPT430WR-QUBF70.K. (lcd-onderdelen.nl) The BOE HV430QUB-F70 itself is a 43-inch UHD BOE cell with V-by-One 8-lane, 51-pin, 12 V interface, and your HV430QUB-H11 is also listed as a BOE 43-inch UHD panel with V-by-One 8-lane and 12 V VCC, so the video format family is promising. (panelook.com)

But the connector pinout is the problem, not the general panel family.

---

Direct answer

Is the Samsung option better?

Electrically/software-wise: potentially yes
The Samsung mainboard was already configured to drive a BOE HV430QUB-F70/TPT430WR-QUBF70.K panel, so the chance of compatible timing, V-by-One format, color depth and firmware profile is probably better than with the Vestel board originally intended for a VES/LG Display-type configuration.

Physically/pinout-wise: not directly
The published HV430QUB-F70 pinout places:

- 12 V VDD on pins 1–8
- HTPDN on pin 25
- LOCKN on pin 26
- V-by-One lanes on pins 28–50

The Starlight/HK.T.RT2861V09 “Innolux” connector you previously showed places:

- GND at pin 1
- V-by-One lanes on pins 2–24
- LOCKN on pin 26
- HTPDN on pin 27
- 12 V on pins 44–51

So a straight cable connection could put 12 V onto ground or signal pins. That can destroy the T-Con or the Samsung mainboard.

Therefore my initial verdict is:

> The Samsung donor is the most promising from a panel-profile point of view, but it is not safer than the Vestel option unless you make or verify a correct adapter between the Samsung V-by-One output and the BOE HV430QUB-H11 T-Con input.

---

Detailed problem analysis

1. Why the Samsung donor is attractive

The good news is that the Samsung set is from a very similar display ecosystem.

Item	Samsung donor	Your Starlight set
TV size	43 inch	43 inch
Resolution	UHD 3840 × 2160	UHD 3840 × 2160
Panel family	BOE HV430QUB-F70 / TPT430WR-QUBF70.K	BOE HV430QUB-H11
Interface class	V-by-One 8-lane, 51-pin, 12 V	V-by-One 8-lane, 12 V
Backlight class	43-inch edge/direct LED TV driver	43-inch LED TV driver

That is more encouraging than the Vestel case, because the Samsung board is already from a BOE HV430QUB 43-inch UHD environment.

Also, the Samsung donor gives you:

- working Samsung mainboard,
- matching Samsung PSU/backlight board,
- Samsung IR/keypad/remote ecosystem,
- probably working Wi-Fi module,
- a better smart-TV platform than the old HK/Realtek board.

Samsung support pages confirm the UE43AU7092U model family and firmware/manual support still exists, which is useful if the set later needs software recovery or normal user documentation. (samsung.com)

So as a complete electronics transplant, the Samsung option is attractive.

---

2. The dangerous part: F70 pinout versus your H11 connector

The HV430QUB-F70 datasheet gives the 51-pin input connector assignment. The important part is this:

HV430QUB-F70 pin	Function
1–8	VDD, +12 V
10–14	GND
18	SDA
19	SCL
25	HTPDN
26	LOCKN
28/29	V-by-One lane 0 N/P
31/32	V-by-One lane 1 N/P
34/35	V-by-One lane 2 N/P
37/38	V-by-One lane 3 N/P
40/41	V-by-One lane 4 N/P
43/44	V-by-One lane 5 N/P
46/47	V-by-One lane 6 N/P
49/50	V-by-One lane 7 N/P
51	GND

This is from the BOE HV430QUB-F70 specification. (panelook.com)

Your previously posted Starlight/Realtek “Innolux” connector drawing is essentially the opposite style:

Starlight/H11 connector area	Function
1	GND
2–24	V-by-One lanes
25	GND
26	LOCKN
27	HTPDN
28–38	option/control pins
39–42	GND
43	NC
44–51	12 V

So, although both are “51-pin V-by-One 8-lane 12 V”, they are not the same pinout.

This is very important. “V-by-One 51-pin” is not enough. There are multiple connector conventions.

---

Consequence: direct Samsung-to-H11 cable is unsafe

If the Samsung mainboard output follows the HV430QUB-F70 convention, then a direct connection to your HV430QUB-H11 T-Con could do something like this:

Samsung/F70 signal	Directly lands on H11-style pin	Result
12 V on pins 1–8	GND/V-by-One area	Possible short or signal damage
V-by-One lanes on pins 28–50	option/GND/12 V area	No valid image, possible damage
HTPDN pin 25	H11 pin 25 GND	Wrong hot-plug signal
LOCKN pin 26	H11 pin 26 LOCKN	This one happens to match
12 V absent from H11 pins 44–51	H11 T-Con may not power correctly	No operation

So the Samsung donor cannot be treated like the Vestel board, where the connector layout you showed was close to the H11-style pinout.

---

Does this make the Samsung option bad?

No. It means the Samsung option changes from:

> “maybe plug-compatible”

to:

> “promising, but requires adapter/pinout work.”

If you can build or obtain a correct adapter cable, the Samsung option could become the best overall solution.

If you cannot make a reliable high-speed V-by-One adapter, the Vestel board may actually remain the more practical route, because its connector drawing was much closer to your original H11 connection.

---

What not to do

Do not directly connect Samsung mainboard to the H11 T-Con

Not until you have measured and mapped the pins.

Do not transplant the Samsung HV430QUBF70 T-Con onto the H11 panel glass casually

The Samsung donor T-Con belongs to the broken TPT430WR-QUBF70.K / HV430QUB-F70 panel. Your good panel is HV430QUB-H11.

Even if both are BOE HV430QUB family, the T-Con-to-glass output connectors, COF routing, source-driver order, gamma correction and section mapping may differ. The F70 datasheet also shows its T-Con output connector section separately from the 51-pin input, so the T-Con is not just a generic V-by-One receiver. (panelook.com)

The safer rule remains:

> Keep the original T-Con with the original LCD glass unless you have confirmed the T-Con output connector pinout and mechanical layout are identical.

---

Possible Samsung-to-H11 adapter concept

If we later decide to pursue the Samsung board, you would need to map the Samsung/F70 nets to the H11-style T-Con pins.

A conceptual mapping would look approximately like this:

Function	Samsung/F70 side	H11/Starlight side
+12 V	pins 1–8	pins 44–51
GND	pins 10–14, 24, 27, 30, 33, 36, 39, 42, 45, 48, 51	pins 1, 4, 7, 10, 13, 16, 19, 22, 25, 38–42
HTPDN	pin 25	pin 27
LOCKN	pin 26	pin 26
RX0N	pin 28	pin 24
RX0P	pin 29	pin 23
RX1N	pin 31	pin 21
RX1P	pin 32	pin 20
RX2N	pin 34	pin 18
RX2P	pin 35	pin 17
RX3N	pin 37	pin 15
RX3P	pin 38	pin 14
RX4N	pin 40	pin 12
RX4P	pin 41	pin 11
RX5N	pin 43	pin 9
RX5P	pin 44	pin 8
RX6N	pin 46	pin 6
RX6P	pin 47	pin 5
RX7N	pin 49	pin 3
RX7P	pin 50	pin 2
SDA	pin 18	probably pin 34 or 32, depending H11 T-Con variant
SCL	pin 19	pin 33

This is not yet a final wiring instruction. It is the logical net conversion based on the documents. Before making any cable, we must confirm:

1. Samsung mainboard connector pin numbering.
2. Whether the Samsung FFC is straight or reversed.
3. Pin 1 orientation on both boards.
4. The exact H11 T-Con input pinout from the actual board/manual.
5. Whether SDA/SCL are used or optional.
6. Whether any option pins need defined pull-ups/pull-downs.

For V-by-One, the differential pairs must be kept short, paired and impedance-conscious. Random long wires are likely to fail.

---

Backlight compatibility

The Samsung power board may be useful. A parts listing for 3IN1_Kant_Su2e_TPV_43 states 96.9 V / 570 mA and 12 V / 4 A, but treat that as marketplace information until verified on the PSU label or by measurement. (fr.shopping.rakuten.com)

Your original Megmeet marking MP5055-85V700 suggests the original backlight driver may have been approximately 85 V / 700 mA. If this interpretation is correct, then the Samsung LED driver at about 570 mA would probably run the Starlight LED strips more gently, provided the LED string forward voltage is inside the Samsung driver’s regulation range.

That is a positive point, but still verify:

- LED connector polarity,
- number of LED strings,
- whether the Samsung LED driver has one or two channels,
- whether the Starlight backlight connector is common-anode/common-cathode or single string,
- whether the Samsung PSU shuts down if the LED voltage is outside range.

Do not connect the backlight blindly.

---

Ranking the options now

With this new Samsung donor included, I would rank them like this:

Option	Current assessment
Exact Megmeet PSU	Best original repair, but unavailable/overpriced
Samsung main + Samsung PSU + H11 panel with proper adapter	Potentially best final result
Vestel 17MB130P + 17IPS72	Still practical because its V-by-One connector appeared closer to your H11 pinout
Samsung direct plug to H11 T-Con	Not safe based on F70 pinout difference
Original HK board + Samsung PSU/backlight with 5 V conversion	Possible hybrid option
PC PSU + separate LED driver	Still least elegant, mostly bench-test option

So the Samsung donor is not automatically better than Vestel. It becomes better only if we solve the V-by-One connector mapping safely.

---

Immediate next checks

Before going further, I would do these checks.

1. Photograph the Samsung 51-pin connector area

Please provide clear pictures of:

- Samsung mainboard V-by-One connector,
- Samsung HV430QUBF70 T-Con input connector,
- the original Samsung FFC cable,
- any labels near the connector.

2. Check whether the Samsung FFC is straight or reversed

With the Samsung FFC removed:

- continuity from Samsung cable contact 1 to opposite end contact 1,
- or contact 1 to contact 51.

This tells us whether the cable reverses pin order.

3. Measure the Samsung mainboard panel output without panel connected

Only if safe and if the board powers normally:

- find which pins carry 12 V,
- confirm whether 12 V appears on the end corresponding to F70 pins 1–8,
- confirm GND pins,
- do not connect the H11 T-Con yet.

4. Compare with H11 T-Con fuse

On the Starlight H11 T-Con:

- confirm which input pins go to the T-Con fuse,
- these should correspond to its 12 V supply,
- compare against your earlier manual drawing.

5. Do not connect backlight yet

First solve:

1. low-voltage power,
2. V-by-One mapping,
3. HTPDN/LOCKN,
4. then backlight.

---

Practical recommendation

My recommendation at this stage:

> Keep the Samsung donor parts. They are valuable and may give the best final repair, but do not plug the Samsung panel cable into the Starlight BOE H11 T-Con directly.

The Samsung option is promising because it is a BOE 43-inch UHD donor, but the F70 datasheet strongly suggests a different 51-pin pinout from your H11-style connector. That is a serious electrical mismatch.

If you can provide photos or a typed pinout of the Samsung mainboard/T-Con connector, we can build a proper comparison table and decide whether:

1. a clean adapter cable is feasible,
2. the Samsung T-Con can be safely reused,
3. the Samsung PSU can be used as a power/backlight donor for the original HK board,
4. or whether the Vestel route remains more practical.

Brief summary

- Samsung donor: very promising, but not plug-and-play.
- The Samsung panel family is closer to your BOE panel than the Vestel/LG route.
- However, HV430QUB-F70 uses a different 51-pin V-by-One pinout from the H11/Innolux-style connector you previously showed.
- Direct connection may destroy the T-Con/mainboard.
- Next step: map Samsung 51-pin connector, cable orientation, 12 V pins, GND pins, HTPDN/LOCKN and V-by-One lanes before any live connection.

asenikonomov301 wrote:

The Samsung boards turned out to not only be incompatible but also the mainboard was problematic, so I disregarded it. Currently exploring the option of using the 17IPS72 along with the original mainb...

Initial assessment

Abandoning the Samsung donor and avoiding the full 17MB130P transplant is reasonable. The best hybrid option now is probably:

> original HK.T.RT2861V09 mainboard + original BOE HV430QUB-H11 panel/T-Con + Vestel 17IPS72 PSU/backlight supply

This preserves the original panel firmware, V-by-One mapping, remote/software behavior and mechanical fit of the mainboard. The remaining task is to adapt the PSU rails and control lines safely.

The attached 17IPS72 CN3 pinout is very useful. It also shows one important correction: do not use a generic 17IPS72 pinout blindly. In your diagram, pin 2 is not +24 V, and pins 4, 6 and 8 are grounds, not duplicate control pins.

---

Correct interpretation of your 17IPS72 CN3 connector

From your drawing:

17IPS72 CN3 pin	Signal	Comment
---:	---	---
1	+24V_AUDIO	Audio amplifier supply
2	2D-3D OPS.	Leave unconnected for now
3	ST_BY	PSU enable / standby control input
4	GND	Ground
5	BL_ON-OFF	Backlight enable input
6	GND	Ground
7	PWM_DIM	Backlight dimming input
8	GND	Ground
9	+5V_STBY	5 V standby output, if populated and capable
10	+12V_STBY	12 V standby output
11	+12V_STBY	12 V standby output
12	+12V_STBY	12 V standby output

This connector can provide almost everything the HK.T.RT2861V09 needs:

- 5 V standby/main logic supply,
- 12 V logic/panel supply,
- 24 V audio supply,
- PSU ON control,
- backlight ON control,
- PWM/ADJ dimming control.

So electrically this is a much cleaner idea than using a PC PSU.

---

Proposed connection map: 17IPS72 to HK.T.RT2861V09

Your original Megmeet PSU connector was:

Original HK mainboard power connector

V12, V12, GND, GND, GND, V5, V5, STB, PS-ON, V5, V5, GND, GND

Assuming pin 1 is the first item in that list:

HK.T.RT2861V09 power connector	Function	Connect to 17IPS72
---:	---	---
1	V12	CN3 pins 10/11/12, preferably through switched 12 V path
2	V12	CN3 pins 10/11/12, preferably through switched 12 V path
3	GND	CN3 pin 4/6/8 or secondary GND
4	GND	CN3 pin 4/6/8 or secondary GND
5	GND	CN3 pin 4/6/8 or secondary GND
6	V5	CN3 pin 9, or external buck 5 V
7	V5	CN3 pin 9, or external buck 5 V
8	STB	Leave unconnected initially
9	PS-ON	CN3 pin 3 ST_BY
10	V5	CN3 pin 9, or external buck 5 V
11	V5	CN3 pin 9, or external buck 5 V
12	GND	CN3 pin 4/6/8 or secondary GND
13	GND	CN3 pin 4/6/8 or secondary GND

Original 24 V audio connector

Original connector:

GND, GND, V24, V24

HK audio connector	Function	Connect to 17IPS72
---:	---	---
1	GND	CN3 GND / secondary GND
2	GND	CN3 GND / secondary GND
3	V24	CN3 pin 1 +24V_AUDIO
4	V24	CN3 pin 1 +24V_AUDIO

For the first startup, you can leave 24 V disconnected. The TV should still boot and produce picture, but audio will probably not work.

Original backlight control connector

Original connector:

GND, GND, ADJ, BK

HK backlight control connector	Function	Connect to 17IPS72
---:	---	---
1	GND	CN3 pin 6/8 or secondary GND
2	GND	CN3 pin 6/8 or secondary GND
3	ADJ	CN3 pin 7 PWM_DIM
4	BK	CN3 pin 5 BL_ON-OFF

I would insert small series resistors, for example 1 kΩ, in the PS-ON/ST_BY, BK/BL_ON and ADJ/PWM lines. They are not strictly required if the logic levels match, but they add some protection during testing.

---

Important correction about the 17IPS72 CN3 pinout

Be careful here:

Pin	Do not assume	Correct according to your drawing
---:	---	---
2	+24 V	2D-3D OPS, leave open
4	Control signal	GND
6	second BL_ON	GND
8	second PWM_DIM	GND

This matters because if someone follows a different 17IPS72 variant pinout and treats pins 5/6 as duplicated BL_ON or 7/8 as duplicated PWM, they would short those signals to ground.

Use your actual board drawing and verify with a meter.

---

5 V standby issue

The HK.T.RT2861V09 has four V5 pins, so the 5 V rail may supply more than just a tiny standby circuit. The 17IPS72 has only one pin marked +5V_STBY, and on some Vestel PSU revisions this output may be missing, weak, or not intended for a foreign mainboard load.

Before connecting the HK board, test CN3 pin 9:

1. Power the 17IPS72 alone.
2. Measure CN3 pin 9 to GND.
3. It should be close to 5.0 V.
4. Put a small test load if possible, for example 10 Ω / 5 W for about 0.5 A.
5. Check whether the voltage stays stable.

If CN3 pin 9 is absent or weak, use a DC-DC buck converter:

- input: 17IPS72 +12V_STBY from pins 10/11/12,
- output: adjusted to exactly 5.0 V,
- output connected to all HK V5 pins,
- common ground to 17IPS72 secondary ground.

Use a proper buck module rated at least 2 A, preferably 3 A, not a 7805 linear regulator. A 7805 dropping 12 V to 5 V at 1 A would dissipate about 7 W and overheat.

---

12 V standby versus switched 12 V

This is the most subtle point.

On the original Megmeet PSU, the HK mainboard probably had:

- 5 V present in standby,
- 12 V enabled after PS-ON,
- 24 V enabled after PS-ON.

On the 17IPS72, the pins are marked +12V_STBY, which suggests that 12 V may be always present whenever the PSU is connected to mains.

That may still work, but it can have side effects:

- the HK mainboard may partially power up in standby,
- the T-Con/panel 12 V may remain live in standby,
- standby consumption may be higher,
- some regulators may stay warm all the time.

For first testing, you may connect 17IPS72 +12V_STBY directly to the HK V12 input, but for a neat final repair I would check whether the T-Con receives 12 V while the TV is “off”.

If T-Con 12 V is present in standby

Then I recommend switching the HK V12 line with PS-ON.

A simple relay solution:

- CN3 pins 10/11/12 +12V_STBY to relay common contact,
- relay normally-open contact to HK V12 pins,
- relay coil driven by HK PS-ON through an NPN transistor,
- diode across relay coil,
- HK PS-ON also connected to 17IPS72 CN3 pin 3 ST_BY.

Example transistor drive:

- NPN emitter to GND,
- NPN collector to relay coil negative,
- relay coil positive to +12V_STBY,
- 4.7 kΩ from HK PS-ON to NPN base,
- 47 kΩ from base to emitter,
- flyback diode across relay coil.

That preserves the original behavior: the HK board gets 5 V in standby, then when it asserts PS-ON the PSU wakes and V12 is applied.

A MOSFET high-side switch would be more elegant, but a small relay is easier to build safely if you do not have many parts.

---

What to do with the HK “STB” pin

Do not connect the HK STB pin to the 17IPS72 ST_BY pin without checking.

Use the HK PS-ON pin first, because that is the most likely PSU enable output.

However, before final wiring, it would be very useful to test the HK board with your 5 V and 12 V adapters:

1. Connect 5 V to HK V5.
2. Connect grounds together.
3. If needed, connect 12 V to HK V12.
4. Press power using the keypad/remote.
5. Measure the voltages on:
- STB,
- PS-ON,
- BK,
- ADJ.

Expected behavior:

Signal	Expected when TV is off	Expected when TV is on
PS-ON	0 V	3.3 V or 5 V
BK	0 V	3.3 V or 5 V after boot
ADJ	PWM or analog level	PWM or analog level
STB	uncertain	uncertain

If PS-ON does not change but STB does, then the naming may be different on this board and we would revise the mapping. But initial assumption: PS-ON → 17IPS72 ST_BY.

---

Backlight driver compatibility

The 17IPS72 backlight section is usable, but this part must be treated separately.

The original Megmeet marking MP5055-85V700 strongly suggests that the original LED driver may have been around the 85 V / 700 mA class. The 17IPS72 from a 43-inch Vestel set may be close, but it is not guaranteed to have the same:

- LED current,
- LED voltage range,
- number of channels,
- LED connector pinout,
- protection behavior.

Before connecting the BOE panel backlight to the 17IPS72:

1. Identify the 17IPS72 LED connector pins:
- LED+,
- LED− / return channels,
- number of strings.
2. Compare with the original Starlight LED connector.
3. Do not assume that same connector shape means same wiring.
4. If possible, reduce LED current before long-term use.

On many 17IPS72 revisions the LED current is set by low-ohm current-sense resistors near the LED driver IC. Increasing the sense resistance reduces current. Often this is done by removing one resistor from a parallel group, but do not do this blindly. First identify the LED driver IC and the resistor network.

For testing, run the backlight only briefly and preferably with the TV backlight setting low.

---

Suggested test sequence

Stage 1: Test 17IPS72 alone

With the PSU disconnected from the HK board:

1. Apply mains safely.
2. Measure:
- CN3 pin 9: should be 5 V if populated,
- CN3 pins 10/11/12: should be 12 V,
- CN3 pin 1: may be 0 V until ST_BY is activated.
3. Momentarily activate ST_BY only through a resistor:
- use 3.3 V or 5 V through 4.7 kΩ to CN3 pin 3,
- do not use 12 V on ST_BY.
4. Check whether +24V_AUDIO appears on pin 1.

Do not enable the backlight output without a proper LED load unless you are only doing a very brief check.

Stage 2: Test HK mainboard control signals

Using your 5 V / 1 A and 12 V / 2 A adapters:

- connect all grounds together,
- feed V5 and V12,
- leave 24 V disconnected,
- leave backlight disconnected,
- measure PS-ON, STB, BK and ADJ.

Use small fuses if possible:

Rail	Suggested fuse for testing
5 V	1 A to 1.5 A
12 V	2 A
24 V	leave disconnected initially

Your adapters are not lab supplies, but for this control-signal test they are acceptable if used carefully.

Stage 3: First integrated test

Connect only:

- 5 V,
- ground,
- 12 V,
- PS-ON to ST_BY.

Leave disconnected:

- 24 V audio,
- LED backlight,
- optional 2D-3D OPS pin.

Connect the original panel/T-Con cable to the HK board as before. Power up and check:

- standby LED behavior,
- whether PS-ON rises,
- whether the 17IPS72 responds,
- whether T-Con fuse receives 12 V,
- whether there is a faint image using a flashlight.

Stage 4: Add 24 V audio

After the board boots correctly, connect:

- CN3 pin 1 +24V_AUDIO to HK V24 pins,
- ground to audio ground pins,
- preferably through a 1 A to 2 A fuse.

Stage 5: Add backlight

Only after LED connector and current are checked:

- HK BK → 17IPS72 BL_ON-OFF,
- HK ADJ → 17IPS72 PWM_DIM,
- LED connector adapted correctly,
- current reduced if needed.

---

Practical verdict

Yes, using the 17IPS72 with the original HK.T.RT2861V09 is now the most sensible route.

It is better than:

- the Samsung donor,
- the full 17MB130P transplant,
- a PC ATX PSU conversion.

The only real concerns are:

1. whether the 17IPS72 +5V_STBY output is present and strong enough,
2. whether HK V12 should be always-on or switched by PS-ON,
3. correct interpretation of HK STB versus PS-ON,
4. LED backlight connector/current compatibility.

If those are handled properly, this can become a clean and safe repair.

Brief summary

- Use HK PS-ON → 17IPS72 CN3 pin 3 ST_BY.
- Use HK BK → CN3 pin 5 BL_ON-OFF.
- Use HK ADJ → CN3 pin 7 PWM_DIM.
- Use CN3 pin 9 +5V_STBY → HK V5, but verify current capability.
- Use CN3 pins 10/11/12 +12V_STBY → HK V12, preferably switched by PS-ON for final repair.
- Use CN3 pin 1 +24V_AUDIO → HK V24, but connect later.
- Leave CN3 pin 2 2D-3D OPS unconnected.
- Leave HK STB unconnected initially.
- Do not connect the backlight until the LED connector and current are verified.

If you can provide a clear photo of the 17IPS72 LED connector area and LED driver section, especially the IC marking and current-sense resistors, the backlight-current part can be checked much more precisely.