Amica oven won&039;t turn on and no hob working either

Question

Accepted Answer

Direct answer to the question - If both the Amica oven and the hob are completely dead, the fault is almost certainly in the incoming supply path breakerisolatorreceptaclecableterminal block, not an internal oven-only part. - First, check and fully reset the dedicated rangecooker breaker. Then verify the cooker isolation switch if fitted and the range receptacleconnection and cord. The next most common fault is a burnedloose connection at the appliance terminal block. Key points - Dual failure oven + hob = loss of common supply. - Check: breakerRCD-GFCIAFCI → wall isolator UKEU or receptacle US → range cord → appliance terminal block. - Do not continue resetting a breaker that immediately trips; isolate and have it inspected. Detailed problem analysis - Why both are out: The oven and hob share the same mains feed. Internal components elements, thermostats, sensors are on branches; a failure there rarely kills both simultaneously. A supply interruption or high‑resistance connection upstream of the split point will. - Regional wiring specifics: - United States typical Amica imports or similar ranges: 120240 V split‑phase on a 2‑pole 40–50 A breaker to a NEMA 14‑50 4‑wire or hardwired whip. Loss of one hot leg can produce odd symptoms; loss of both hots or neutral typically leaves the unit dead. - UKEU: 230 V single‑phase on a 32–45 A circuit via a cooker control unit often with neon indicator and a cooker connection plate. Loosehigh‑resistance terminations are common failure points. - Most likely fault locations highest to lower likelihood: 1 Trippedopen 2‑pole rangecooker breaker or upstream RCDGFCIAFCI. 2 Failedturned‑off cooker isolation switch UKEU or defective range receptacle US. 3 Burnedloose terminal at the appliance connection block rear of cooker or behind the wall isolatorconnection plate. 4 Damaged range cordhardwire whip heat or movement fatigue. 5 Open neutral in the supply path. 6 Internal mains filterthermal cut‑outwiring harness failure least common for a total blackout. - What each symptom suggests: - No displaylamps and no hob: upstream supply is offopen breakerisolatorplugterminal block. - Display is on but no heat anywhere: missing leg US, clock not set some models inhibit heating if time not set, or thermal cut‑out opened. - Gas hob present and its igniters also dead: shared 120230 V feed is missing look for tripped GFCIRCD protecting the outlet feeding the ignition module. Current information and trends - Modern installations increasingly use GFCI andor AFCI protection for large appliances depending on local code. A nuisance trip or a dual‑function breaker trip can mimic a dead range even when the main 2‑pole breaker looks “on.” Check both devices if present. - Many electronic ovens will not energize elements unless the clocktime is set after a power loss. If the display is lit but flashing, set the time before further diagnosis. Supporting explanations and details - Safe reset of protection devices: - Rangecooker breaker: switch each pole firmly OFF, then ON. Some breakers appear “on” after tripping; a full off→on cycle is required. - If it trips immediately: suspect a shorted cord, melted terminal block, or internal short—leave OFF and call a professional. - Quick external checks you can do without tools: - US: Does any part of the control panel light up? If completely dark, test a known‑working 120 V outlet nearby for power to check for a broader outage. If the panel lights but no heat, suspect loss of one hot leg. - UKEU: Is the red cooker switch on? Is its neon indicator lit? Neon off with switch on points upstream; neon on but cooker dead points to the connection cableterminal blockappliance. - Multimeter checks only if you’re competent; power is lethal: - US receptacle power ON, extreme caution: L1–L2 ≈ 240 V; L1–N ≈ 120 V; L2–N ≈ 120 V. If L1–L2 is 0 V or one hot to neutral is 0 V, you’ve lost a leg. If neutral is open, you may read erratic voltages. - UKEU connection power ON: L–N ≈ 230 V. No voltage = upstream fault; voltage present here but unit dead = appliance side fault. - Appliance terminal block power OFF to open, then power ON to measure: Confirm tight, undamaged terminations. Discoloration, charring, or melted plastic indicates a high‑resistance joint—replace the block, cut back to bright copper, and re‑terminate. - Internal safety parts less likely to kill both oven and hob: - Thermal cut‑outs and cavity stats usually affect oven heat only; a wide blackout points elsewhere. - Mains interference filter EMIRFI at the entry can fail open; check continuity if supply reaches the appliance. Ethical and legal aspects - Electrical work must comply with local codes NEC in the US; BS 7671 in the UK; national standards in EU. Work inside fixed wiring or on high‑current cooker circuits should be performed by a qualified electrician. Do not bypass safety devices RCDGFCIAFCI, thermal cut‑outs. Practical guidelines - Step-by-step checklist: 1 Identify your setup: country, electric vs gas hob, model numberserial. 2 At the panel: fully reset the 2‑pole cookerrange breaker; also reset any GFCIAFCI or RCD that may protect the circuit. 3 Verify wall isolator UKEU: switch ON; check indicator. If indicator dark → call an electrician to inspect upstream wiring. If lit → proceed. 4 Inspect cordreceptacle US or connection plate UKEU: with power OFF, pull the cooker out carefully, look for heat damage, looseness, or odor of burning. 5 Inspect the appliance terminal block: power OFF, open cover, check tightness and condition. Repairreplace if heat damage is present. 6 If supply is proven present at the appliance and the unit is still dead: contact an appliance engineer—likely internal mains distribution, EMI filter, or control board feed. - Tools: flashlight, insulated screwdriver, multimeter CAT III rated, PPE gloveseye protection, phonecamera to document wiring. Potential challenges and how to overcome them - Heavy appliance movement: protect flooring and avoid straining the supply cable; have a second person assist. - Intermittent neutral faults: may pass a quick test but fail under load; perform a load test or inspect for heat damage to confirm. Possible disclaimers or additional notes - If you smell burning or see melted insulationsoot, keep the breaker OFF and call a professional. - Some Amica models will not heat until the clock is set after a power interruption; if the display is alive but flashing, set the time and retest. Suggestions for further research - Provide your exact model number and whether the hob is electric or gas, plus your country. With that, I can supply terminal block layout, expected sensor values, and part numbers for replacement blockscords. - If available, the serviceinstallation manual for your specific model includes wiring diagrams and torque specs for terminals. Brief summary - A dead Amica oven and hob almost always means a supply-side problem. Start at the breaker and any GFCIAFCIRCD, then the wall isolatorreceptacle, then the range cord and the appliance terminal block. Repair any heat‑damaged or loose connections and only proceed with live measurements if you are qualified. If full voltage reaches the appliance and it remains dead, the issue is internal to the cooker and needs a professional. If you can tell me your country, whether the hob is electric or gas, and the model number, I’ll tailor the next diagnostic steps and measurement points for your exact unit.

Amica oven and hob not working – no power, both dead, supply fault diagnosis

User question

Artificial Intelligence Response

Ask additional question