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Key points
• Identify the exact switch type and pin spacing before buying the replacement.
• Use flux, braid or a solder sucker to remove the old solder without lifting PCB pads.
• If a pad is already torn, bridge the leg of the new switch to the exposed trace with 30 AWG wire.
Switch identification
• Clementoni Cyber-Robot (AD12946 and variants) uses a through-hole SP3T slide switch (4 pins; common + 3 throws) that selects OFF, ECO and PROG.
• Typical dimensions: body ≈ 8–9 mm (L) × 3 mm (W); pin pitch 2.54 mm; actuator height ≈ 4 mm.
Typical failure modes
a. Mechanical – actuator snapped, housing cracked, detent lost.
b. Electrical – oxidised / burnt contacts → intermittent or no power.
c. PCB – copper pad lifted when the robot was dropped or during a previous repair attempt.
Electrical verification (multimeter continuity test)
• Remove batteries.
• Identify COM pin (usually slightly offset).
• In each slider position only the COM pin and one throw pin should read ≈ 0 Ω ; the other two throws must remain open (OL). Failure → replace switch.
Choosing a replacement
• Electrical: ≥ 6 VDC, 300 mA (the robot draws < 150 mA).
• Mechanical: same pin arrangement and slider height so it fits the case slot.
• Common options:
– C&K JS202011-SCQN series
– ALPS SS-12F03 or SS-12F15
– Generic “SS-22F03” 3-position slide switches (verify footprint).
• Vendors: Digi-Key, Mouser, RS, Farnell, LCSC, or reputable e-bay / AliExpress stores (check datasheet!).
Switch-replacement procedure
Tools: temperature-controlled iron (320–350 °C), 0.5–0.8 mm Sn60/Pb40 solder, liquid flux, desolder braid + pump, ESD tweezers, IPA > 90 %, small nylon brush, magnifier.
a. Desolder the old switch
– Fix PCB in a holder. Apply flux to all four joints.
– Add a dab of fresh solder (improves heat transfer).
– Wick away solder; clear holes with pump while the solder is molten.
– Gently lift the switch; if it resists, a pin is still bonded—re-heat, never force.
b. Inspect & repair pads
– Clean with IPA; check for lifted pads.
– If a pad is missing: scrape 1–2 mm of solder-mask off the connected trace, tin it, then later solder a 30-AWG wire from the new pin to that spot (secure with epoxy or UV glue).
c. Solder-in the new switch
– Insert, verify it sits flush, tack one corner pin.
– Align actuator with the housing slot; finish soldering remaining pins (small, shiny fillets).
– Final IPA clean-up.
Functional test before re-assembly
• Multimeter continuity for all three positions.
• Power-up robot on bench; confirm LEDs light and the MCU enters ECO/PROG.
• Sealed miniature slide switches (IP-rated) are now widely available and extend service life in toys that see dust and spills.
• Many hobbyists 3-D print an external reinforcing “sleeve” for the actuator to spread impact load—worth considering if children frequently drop the robot.
• Drop-in SMD versions exist, but through-hole remains preferred for hand repair because it tolerates greater mechanical stress.
Why replacement, not repair?
Miniature slide switches are riveted together; contacts are plated with thin silver alloy. Once the actuator breaks or the fixed rivet loosens, mechanical tolerances are lost and contact wipe force collapses. Even if you manage to re-crimp the shell, long-term reliability is poor; replacement takes the same time and yields a robust result.
Analogy
Think of the switch as a railroad turnout: if the lever is bent or the rails are mis-aligned, trains derail. Re-aligning bent rails at millimetre scale is harder than swapping the turnout assembly.
• Warranty: opening the robot voids it. If still within the statutory warranty period, contact Clementoni first.
• Safety: disconnect batteries; avoid lead-bearing solder fumes; wear eye-protection when using solder-pump.
• RoHS: if you prefer lead-free, use SAC305 solder at ~360 °C.
• Child safety: ensure no loose solder balls remain inside that could short the Li-ion booster board.
Common pitfalls & fixes
• Hole blocked with solder → heat, push a fine needle through, add flux, re-wick.
• Solder bridge between COM and throw → touch with clean iron tip & wick.
• Robot dead after repair → verify battery wires; many users forget to re-connect the small JST.
• Replacement switches from low-cost marketplaces may have looser detents; select “high-force” variants if available.
• If more than two pads have torn off, a point-to-point wired bodge may become unreliable—consider replacing the whole PCB or asking Clementoni for a spare board instead.
• IPC-7711/7721 rework video tutorials (YouTube – PACE, Hakko).
• Datasheets of C&K JS202011 and ALPS SS-12F series for exact footprints.
• Community threads on Elektroda and Reddit’s r/AskElectronics for user-confirmed part numbers.
• Investigate conformal-coating the board to protect from future liquid spills.
A damaged power-mode switch in the Clementoni Cyber-Robot is almost always solved by complete replacement with an identical 3-position slide switch. Identify the footprint, desolder the faulty part with flux and braid, repair any lifted pads, solder in the new switch, test all three positions, and re-assemble. This approach restores full functionality, complies with safety norms, and is quicker and more reliable than attempting to rebuild the tiny internal mechanism.
