EK-04 8 Program Multi Controller: Make Christmas Lights Stay On Steady Mode

User question

How to make the EK-04 8 program multi controller christmas lights to stay continuously on

Artificial Intelligence Response

Direct answer to the question

• There are three practical ways to get “steady on” from EK‑04 multi‑function Christmas lights:
  • Use the controller’s built‑in “steady/constant” mode and make sure the controller has (or is replaced by one that has) power‑loss memory so it comes back in steady after unplugging. (auschristmaslighting.com)
  • If your set is the older multi‑channel type (typically 1 common + 2–4 switched returns → 3‑ to 5‑wire harness), permanently bridge each channel’s switching device on the PCB so every channel is always on. (forum.allaboutcircuits.com)
  • If your set is the newer 2‑wire “alternating‑polarity” type, do not simply wire around the box to DC (that lights only half the LEDs). Either keep a controller that powers up in steady (with memory), or do a board‑specific modification; otherwise replace the controller/light set. (auschristmaslighting.com)

Key points

• First identify your controller topology (2‑wire alternating‑polarity vs multi‑channel 3–5 wire). The method depends on this. (elektroda.com)
• These boxes are non‑isolated and reference mains. Unplug before opening and follow mains‑safety practice.

Detailed problem analysis

• Why identification matters

  • Multi‑channel EK‑04 variants: After a rectifier, a small MCU drives two to four SCRs/triacs or transistor switches; one wire is a common rail, the others are independent channel returns. If you hard‑close (bridge) each switch’s main terminals, you recreate “steady on” permanently while keeping the rectifier and fuse in circuit. (forum.allaboutcircuits.com)
  • 2‑wire alternating‑polarity variants: The LED string is built as two antiparallel chains; the controller flips polarity (or alternates two outputs) so different LEDs conduct on opposite half‑cycles. If you bypass to unipolar DC, only one chain will light (“every second LED” symptom). That is why DC bypasses disappoint and can also remove current‑limit elements housed in the controller. (auschristmaslighting.com)

• How to tell which you have (with power disconnected)

  • Count the wires going from the controller to the lights:
  • 2 wires → alternating‑polarity type (newer tiny white EK‑04 PCBs often use MB10F bridge + 6‑pin controller IC marked “806B”). (electronics.stackexchange.com)
  • 3–5 wires → multi‑channel type (one common rail marked “+”, “W+”, “V+”, and 2–4 returns labeled CH1/CH2/L1/L2 etc.). You will typically see 2–4 identical 3‑lead switches (SCRs/triacs/transistors) near the cable. (elektroda.com)

• Electrical foundation

  • Multi‑channel case: Each channel switch connects its LED segment to the supply rail. Bridging the switch’s main terminals (A–K for SCR, MT1–MT2 for triac, C–E for a BJT) forces a permanent connection, hence steady on. Gate pins are irrelevant once the main path is shorted. (forum.allaboutcircuits.com)
  • 2‑wire case: Because the two LED chains are opposite‑facing, steady illumination of both requires an alternating/bipolar drive (or a topology‑specific hack). DC across the two wires forward‑biases only one chain. (auschristmaslighting.com)

• What about “remove the 6‑pin IC and rewire” on 2‑wire boards?

  • Some hobbyists report success on a specific 2‑wire EK‑04 revision by removing the tiny 6‑pin controller IC and tying the LED leads to the rectifier outputs on that same PCB, effectively feeding the string from the board’s supply without the pattern logic. This is layout‑specific and not guaranteed across revisions. Proceed only if your PCB matches that report. (electronics.stackexchange.com)

Current information and trends

• Since about 2014—and common in 2023–2025—many retail “8‑function” sets moved to 2‑wire alternating‑polarity designs. These cannot be cleanly bypassed to DC without losing half the LEDs; steady‑on is best achieved by using a controller with memory so it powers up in steady. (auschristmaslighting.com)
• Tiny EK‑04 boards observed in 2023–2025 often use an MB10F bridge and a 6‑pin IC marked “806B,” confirming the 2‑wire trend. (electronics.stackexchange.com)
• Low‑cost replacement 4‑channel controllers that include “steady” and memory are widely sold; swapping the controller is often faster and safer than PCB surgery. (holidynamics.com)

Supporting explanations and details

• Step‑by‑step: multi‑channel (3–5 wires) “permanent steady” mod

  • Unplug; wait a few minutes for capacitors to discharge.
  • Photograph both sides of the PCB.
  • Identify the common rail (“+”, W+, V+) and 2–4 identical switches (SCRs/triacs/BJTs) feeding the channel pads (CH1/CH2/…).
  • Option A (most robust): Solder a short insulated jumper from the supply rail to each channel output pad; this keeps the rectifier/fuse/current‑limit parts in circuit.
  • Option B: Bridge the two main terminals of each channel’s switching device (A–K, MT1–MT2, or C–E). Do not disturb the mains input traces. Inspect carefully for unintended shorts. (forum.allaboutcircuits.com)
  • First power‑up through a series‑lamp limiter or variac; check for normal brightness and no abnormal heating for 15–20 minutes.

• Options for 2‑wire sets (cannot simply “hot‑wire” to steady on)

  • Easiest: Use the mode button to select “steady,” then use a controller with memory (either your unit if it remembers, or replace with one advertised to retain last mode). (auschristmaslighting.com)
  • PCB‑specific hack (advanced, not universal): On boards matching the MB10F + 806B layout, some users removed the 6‑pin IC and reconnected the LED leads to the bridge outputs on the same PCB to get constant illumination. Risk: if your string relies on the controller for current limiting or your PCB differs, you can damage the LEDs. (electronics.stackexchange.com)
  • Avoid: Cutting the controller out and feeding raw DC/mains directly—this commonly lights only every second LED and can defeat current limiting. (auschristmaslighting.com)

Ethical and legal aspects

• In the United States, modifying a UL 588‑listed seasonal product voids the listing. Do not use field‑modified devices in public/commercial displays; for outdoor residential use, plug only into a GFCI‑protected receptacle and keep the enclosure weatherproof. Maintain the original fuse and strain relief. (General code/safety guidance.)

Practical guidelines

• Before you start
  • Confirm the wire count from box to light string and note PCB markings (AC/AC, “+”, CH1/CH2, etc.). (elektroda.com)
  • If you plan to replace the controller, choose one that explicitly lists a “steady” function and “memory/last‑mode recall.” (holidynamics.com)
• Best practices
  • Use heat‑shrink and conformal coating or silicone to reseal enclosures.
  • Test via a series incandescent lamp limiter to catch faults safely on first power‑up.
  • Never tie channels together on a live mains board; do all combining on the low‑voltage side of a lab supply when diagnosing.
• Common pitfalls and fixes
  • Only every second LED lights after bypass → you likely have a 2‑wire set; revert or use a memory‑equipped controller. (auschristmaslighting.com)
  • Uneven brightness → one channel not bridged or a cold solder joint.
  • No memory of steady mode → replace the controller rather than trying to add NVM unless you can fully trace the board.

Possible disclaimers or additional notes

• EK‑04 is a generic label across many PCB revisions; pad names, switch types, and wiring vary. Verify with a meter before soldering. (elektroda.com)
• Some strings hide current‑limit resistors in molded joints; removing the box and feeding raw mains can over‑stress LEDs. (elektroda.com)

Suggestions for further research

• If you can share clear photos (both sides) of your EK‑04 PCB and the number/colors of output wires, I can mark exact pads to bridge for your specific revision.
• For background on why 2‑wire sets don’t bypass cleanly and what does/doesn’t work, see community guidance and teardowns on multi‑function controller bypassing. (auschristmaslighting.com)
• For the “MB10F + 806B” tiny EK‑04 board specifics, review the community thread documenting that layout and the reported mod outcome. (electronics.stackexchange.com)

Brief summary

• Decide which EK‑04 you have. Multi‑channel (3–5 wires): bridge each channel to the supply rail or short each switch’s main terminals to get permanent steady on. 2‑wire: don’t hard‑bypass to DC; use a controller that powers up in steady (with memory) or, if and only if your PCB matches known layouts, apply the board‑specific IC‑removal/rewire hack—otherwise replace the controller or the set. Above all, treat the EK‑04 as a mains‑referenced device and work to mains‑safety standards. (forum.allaboutcircuits.com)

If you can tell me how many wires go from your EK‑04 to the string (and share a photo of the PCB), I’ll give exact bridge points for your board revision.

Disclaimer: The responses provided by artificial intelligence (language model) may be inaccurate and misleading. Elektroda is not responsible for the accuracy, reliability, or completeness of the presented information. All responses should be verified by the user.