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To control an electric actuator with a remote control, you need:
For a typical 12 V or 24 V DC linear actuator, the simplest solution is to buy a linear actuator wireless remote control kit rated for your actuator’s voltage and current. The receiver connects between the power supply and actuator and reverses polarity to extend or retract the actuator.
In simple terms:
Remote control → Wireless receiver/controller → Relay or H-bridge → Actuator
↑
DC power supplyFor most two-wire DC actuators:
The control method depends strongly on the actuator type.
| Actuator type | Typical wires | Control method |
|---|---|---|
| 12 V / 24 V DC linear actuator | 2 wires | Reverse polarity to extend/retract |
| DC actuator with potentiometer feedback | 5 wires or more | Motor power plus position feedback controller |
| Servo actuator | 3 wires or more | PWM or dedicated servo signal |
| Stepper linear actuator | 4–6 wires | Stepper driver plus controller |
| AC actuator | 3–5 wires | AC-rated relay/contactor control, usually direction windings |
| Industrial actuator | Many terminals | PLC, 0–10 V, 4–20 mA, Modbus, CAN, etc. |
Most DIY and automation actuators are two-wire DC linear actuators, so the rest of this answer focuses mainly on that case.
A standard DC linear actuator is essentially a DC motor plus gearbox plus screw mechanism.
If the actuator has two wires:
+12 V to Wire A, 0 V to Wire B → actuator moves one way
0 V to Wire A, +12 V to Wire B → actuator moves the other way
No voltage across the wires → actuator stopsSo the remote-control system must be able to do two things:
This is usually done using either:
For most applications, this is the best approach.
A typical kit includes:
Basic wiring:
12 V / 24 V supply + → receiver/controller +
12 V / 24 V supply - → receiver/controller -
Receiver actuator output 1 → actuator wire 1
Receiver actuator output 2 → actuator wire 2Then:
Choose a receiver/controller rated for:
For example, if your actuator is 12 V and draws 5 A normally but 15 A at stall, do not use a receiver with tiny 5 A relay contacts. Use a controller or external relays rated above the worst-case current.
If you want to build the system yourself, use a relay arrangement that reverses polarity.
A DPDT relay can reverse polarity to the actuator. This is common for simple extend/retract systems.
Conceptually:
Relay not energized: actuator sees one polarity
Relay energized: actuator sees reversed polarityHowever, with only one DPDT relay, you often need another relay or switch to turn power on/off. Therefore, many remote actuator systems use either:
A common method uses two SPDT relays.
Each relay has:
COM — common terminal,NO — normally open,NC — normally closed.Typical wiring:
Relay 1 COM → actuator wire 1
Relay 2 COM → actuator wire 2
Relay 1 NC → supply negative
Relay 2 NC → supply negative
Relay 1 NO → supply positive
Relay 2 NO → supply positiveBehavior:
| Relay state | Actuator wire 1 | Actuator wire 2 | Result |
|---|---|---|---|
| Both off | 0 V | 0 V | Stop/brake |
| Relay 1 on | +V | 0 V | Move one direction |
| Relay 2 on | 0 V | +V | Move other direction |
| Both on | +V | +V | Stop/no voltage across motor |
This arrangement is useful because if both relays turn on accidentally, both actuator wires go to positive, so there is no direct short across the supply. The motor stops because both terminals are at the same potential.
Still, it is good practice to use electrical or logic interlocking so both directions cannot be commanded simultaneously.
Most remote receiver boards provide several operating modes.
The actuator moves only while the button is held.
Example:
Hold UP → actuator extends
Release UP → actuator stops
Hold DOWN → actuator retracts
Release DOWN → actuator stopsBest for:
This is usually the safest default mode.
Pressing a button starts motion and the actuator keeps moving until:
Best for:
Use latching mode only if the actuator has internal limit switches or you add external limit switches.
Interlocked mode prevents both directions from being active at once.
For actuators, this is highly recommended because it prevents contradictory extend/retract commands.
The power supply must match the actuator.
Check the actuator label or datasheet for:
A good rule:
Power supply current rating ≥ 1.5 to 2 times actuator running currentFor motor loads, the startup and stall current can be much higher than normal running current.
Example:
If the actuator is:
12 VDC
5 A rated load current
15 A stall currentUse:
Do not select the receiver only by voltage. Its current rating matters just as much.
Always include overcurrent protection.
Recommended basic arrangement:
Battery/supply + → fuse → receiver/controller → actuator
Battery/supply - → receiver/controller → actuatorPlace the fuse close to the power source.
Fuse selection:
Example:
| Actuator load current | Possible fuse range |
|---|---|
| 2 A | 3–5 A |
| 5 A | 7.5–10 A |
| 10 A | 15–20 A |
| 20 A | 25–30 A |
These are general examples; final sizing depends on wire gauge, actuator stall current, duty cycle, and controller rating.
For wiring, use wire sized for the current and cable length. For many small 12 V actuators:
At low voltage, voltage drop matters. A 12 V actuator can become weak if the cable is too long or too thin.
Many linear actuators include built-in end-of-travel limit switches. These stop the motor automatically at full extension and full retraction.
This is important because if the motor keeps running after reaching the mechanical end stop:
If your actuator does not have internal limit switches, add:
For remote systems, internal or external limit protection is strongly recommended.
For more advanced control, use a DC motor driver or H-bridge instead of relays.
Advantages:
Disadvantages:
Typical architecture:
Remote receiver / microcontroller → H-bridge driver → actuator
↑
DC power supplyThis is useful when you want:
If you want to control the actuator with an RC transmitter, such as a hobby radio controller, the receiver usually outputs a servo-style PWM signal.
You then need one of the following:
Basic structure:
RC transmitter → RC receiver → motor controller/H-bridge → actuatorThis is common in robotics and mobile machinery.
For simple full-speed extend/retract operation, relays are enough.
For proportional speed control, use a motor controller.
If you want phone control, you can use:
However, for a DC actuator, a simple one-channel smart relay is usually not enough because the actuator needs polarity reversal. You need either:
Typical Wi-Fi architecture:
Phone app → Wi-Fi module → relay/H-bridge/controller → actuatorFor safety-critical or force-producing applications, avoid relying only on cloud/app control. Include a local stop switch or emergency disconnect.
If your actuator is AC-powered, do not use the DC wiring method.
AC actuators often have:
Control is usually done with AC-rated relays or contactors.
Important:
If the actuator uses 120 VAC or 230 VAC, use a properly enclosed controller and follow local electrical regulations. If unsure, use a qualified electrician.
Use this setup:
12 V battery or power supply
│
Fuse
│
Wireless actuator receiver/controller
│
Two-wire linear actuatorSteps:
Suppose you have:
Actuator: 12 VDC, 5 A running current, 10 A stall current
Remote kit: 12 VDC, 15 A relay rating
Power supply: 12 VDC, 10–15 A
Fuse: 10 A or 15 A, depending on actuator and wiringWiring:
Power supply + → fuse → receiver +
Power supply - → receiver -
Receiver motor output A → actuator wire A
Receiver motor output B → actuator wire BOperation:
Button A → extend
Button B → retract
Stop/release → stopIf pressing extend makes it retract, simply swap the two actuator wires at the receiver output.
| Symptom | Likely cause | Check |
|---|---|---|
| Nothing happens | No power, wrong voltage, blown fuse, unpaired remote | Measure supply voltage at receiver |
| Relay clicks but actuator does not move | Incorrect output wiring, weak supply, bad actuator | Measure voltage at actuator wires |
| Actuator moves wrong direction | Output polarity reversed | Swap actuator wires |
| Actuator starts then stops | Undersized supply, overload, current limit | Measure voltage under load |
| Remote works only nearby | Weak remote battery, antenna issue, RF interference | Replace battery, reposition receiver |
| Relay contacts fail | Current too high, inductive motor load | Use higher-rated relay or motor driver |
| Actuator stalls at end | No limit switches or failed limit switch | Add/repair limit protection |
Important design precautions:
To control an electric actuator with a remote, place a wireless receiver/controller between the power source and the actuator. For a standard two-wire 12 V or 24 V DC linear actuator, the controller must reverse polarity to extend and retract the actuator. The easiest solution is an off-the-shelf linear actuator remote kit. For custom designs, use a DPDT relay, two SPDT relays, or an H-bridge motor driver. Make sure the controller, wiring, fuse, and power supply are rated for the actuator’s current, and ensure the actuator has limit switches or other end-of-travel protection.