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Hyundai HHE272006 Soundbar Persistent Hiss on All Inputs, PCB Sourcing and Repair Tips

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User question

Audio output complaint
PCB wanted

Artificial Intelligence Response

Direct answer to the question

  • I can help diagnose the audio output fault and advise on obtaining or substituting the PCB, but I’ll need a few specifics (device make/model, exact symptoms, and clear PCB photos/part numbers).
  • If this is the Hyundai HHE272006 soundbar case you hinted at, the persistent hiss across all inputs typically points to the power/analog stages or their supplies rather than input/format issues, and complete replacement PCBs are rarely sold retail. Repair at board level (regulators, op-amps, power amp IC, or electrolytics) or a functional substitute module is usually the practical route.

Key points

  • Confirm whether the hiss is present with volume at minimum and with all inputs disconnected; if yes, suspect PSU/amp stages.
  • Measure and de‑ripple the low-voltage rails (e.g., 3.3 V/5 V) and the power‑amp PVDD rail; bad caps/regulators are common.
  • Identify PCB by its silkscreen part number to search for replacements; otherwise plan a component‑level repair or module substitution.
  • As a quick check on digital paths, set the TV output to PCM; if hiss persists on analog/BT too, it’s hardware, not format.

Detailed problem analysis

1) Symptom triage

  • Hiss on all inputs (Bluetooth/optical/HDMI ARC/AUX) and even with inputs unplugged:
    • Likely causes: noisy DC rails (SMPS secondary electrolytics high ESR, failing LDO/switcher), unstable/oscillating preamp op‑amps, faulty class‑D power‑amp IC, poor analog ground reference.
    • Less likely: input format/handshake problems (those don’t affect AUX or BT in the same way).
  • Hiss level versus volume knob:
    • Hiss independent of volume → noise injected after the volume control (power amp or its supply).
    • Hiss scales with volume → upstream (preamp/DSP section or its supply).
  • Intermittent normal operation after power cycles:
    • Thermal or startup‑sequence sensitivity (aging capacitors, marginal regulator, muting circuit not asserting cleanly).
    • MCU mute/POP suppression timing interacting with slow rails.

2) Block-level approach

  • Power supply:
    • Check standby and main rails: typically 3.3 V (MCU/DSP), 5 V (logic/DAC), 12–24 V PVDD (class‑D amp). Record actual values and AC ripple with scope, 20 MHz bandwidth limit on, AC‑coupled.
    • Rule of thumb: ripple on logic rails should be under ~20–30 mVpp; on PVDD under ~100 mVpp at idle. Excess ripple correlates strongly with broadband hiss.
    • ESR/electrolytic health: secondary-side electrolytics near rectifiers/inductors are prime suspects; replace with low‑ESR, 105 °C types of equal or higher ripple rating.
  • Analog front-end:
    • Identify op‑amps (e.g., JRC/NJM/4580, TL072, etc.). Verify supply rails, check for oscillation (look for ~100 kHz–5 MHz bursts on outputs at idle). Add/restore proper decoupling (0.1 µF + 10 µF close to each op‑amp).
    • Inspect muting circuits (transistor or FET shunts) for leakage/partial biasing.
  • Power amplifier stage:
    • Common ICs: TI TPA3116/3118 family, ST/Infineon/TI digital input amps. Check:
    • PVDD stability and LC output filter components (inductor/capacitor integrity).
    • SD/FAULT pins: confirm the device isn’t cycling.
    • DC offset at speaker terminals (should be a few mV at idle on class‑D through LC; significant offset indicates fault).
  • Grounding and shielding:
    • Verify star ground strategy between SMPS secondary, preamp ground, and high‑current speaker returns. Loose chassis bonds increase hiss/hum dramatically.
  • The “green tile gets warm” clue:
    • Without a photo this could be an NTC inrush limiter (disc), a MOV (surge protector), a film/snubber network, or a power resistor. An NTC on the primary will run warm by design; a heating secondary resistor/snubber suggests abnormal stress. Please share a clear photo for identification.

3) Fast isolation tests (low cost)

  • Disconnect everything but mains and speakers. Volume at minimum. If hiss remains, inject a known clean signal:
    • Probe the power‑amp inputs with a low‑level 1 kHz tone from a phone/signal generator (through a 1 µF series cap) to bypass the preamp. If hiss disappears and tone is clean, the power amp and PVDD are likely fine; noise is upstream.
    • Temporarily power the preamp/DSP 5 V rail from a clean bench supply (isolated, current‑limited) to see if hiss drops; if yes, the onboard 5 V regulator/supply is noisy.
  • Swap speakers or use a dummy load: confirm the noise is electronic, not a damaged driver.

Current information and trends

  • Reports for the Hyundai HHE272006 specifically mention persistent hiss across all inputs and intermittent normal behavior after rebooting; some users note a warm “green” component on the board and occasional improvement after power cycles. A few cases improved when the TV audio output was forced to PCM, indicating that digital format issues can add artifacts—but if AUX/BT also hiss, the root cause is hardware.
  • Trend in consumer soundbars: highly integrated SoCs with class‑D outputs and compact SMPS. Failures are dominated by aging electrolytics, marginal decoupling, and heat‑stressed regulators, not the DSP silicon itself. Replacement PCBs are seldom available retail; component‑level repair or donor boards are typical solutions.

Supporting explanations and details

  • Why caps matter: Increased ESR in secondary electrolytics converts load current pulses into ripple voltage, which is then fed into op‑amps/DACs as reference noise, perceived as hiss.
  • Why class‑D can hiss when healthy: It shouldn’t at idle; audible hiss indicates either excessive input‑referred noise (preamp) or inadequate PSRR under ripple.
  • Muting/POP circuits: If the mute FET/transistor partially conducts or the timing cap/resistor drifts, you get broadband noise instead of a hard mute.

Ethical and legal aspects

  • Safety: Primary‑side SMPS work is hazardous. Use an isolation transformer, discharge capacitors, and follow lockout procedures. Do not bypass safety components (MOVs, fuses, Y‑caps).
  • Regulatory: Any board substitution must preserve creepage/clearance and EMC compliance. Modifying mains sections can violate safety certifications.

Practical guidelines

Implementation methods

  • Visual inspection under magnification: look for heat‑tinted PCB, cracked solder on inductors/regulators, bulged or vented capacitors.
  • Baseline measurements (idle):
    • 3.3 V, 5 V rails: DC value and ripple (mVpp).
    • PVDD rail: DC and ripple (mVpp).
    • Speaker outputs: DC offset (mV).
  • Replace first-line consumables:
    • All SMPS secondary electrolytics and the local decoupling electrolytics on the 3.3/5 V rails with low‑ESR 105 °C types.
    • Any visibly heat‑stressed linear regulators; consider drop‑in switching regulator modules if heat margins are tight.
  • Reflow large parts: output inductors, power amp IC pins, and ground tabs.
  • Verify format settings:
    • Force TV to PCM stereo; disable surround/bitstream to remove decode anomalies from the equation. If hiss remains on analog and BT, continue with hardware repairs.

Best practices

  • Use short ground leads and proper probing to avoid false ripple readings.
  • Limit scope bandwidth to 20 MHz for noise measurements to get realistic ripple figures.
  • After cap replacement, run a 2–5 hour thermal soak and re‑measure ripple.

Potential challenges and how to overcome them

  • No schematic: rely on board silkscreen nets, IC datasheets, and reverse‑tracing. Photograph both sides and annotate test points.
  • Rare replacement PCB: source a donor unit with cosmetic damage; transplant the AMP/PSU module or key ICs.
  • Proprietary control signals: If replacing only the power‑amp stage with a module (e.g., TPA3116 board), you may need to re‑implement mute/standby control and ensure gain/impedance matching to the preamp output.

Possible disclaimers or additional notes

  • If the noise originates in a BGA SoC/DSP, repair becomes uneconomical without rework tools and firmware access; at that point a donor board is more practical.
  • Board substitution can fix audio but break front‑panel controls/remote unless interfaces are matched.

Suggestions for further research

  • Provide high‑resolution photos (top/bottom) and list the markings on:
    • Power‑amp IC, main regulators, any hot “green” component.
    • PCB silkscreen numbers (e.g., HHE272006-AMP-REVx, PS-xxxx).
  • With those, I can:
    • Identify exact rails and expected values,
    • Propose a targeted parts list (capacitors/regulator/op‑amp replacements),
    • Search for compatible donor boards or modules and map the wiring.

Brief summary

  • Broad hiss across all inputs generally implicates power/amp sections, not input formats. Start by verifying rails and ripple, then address electrolytics/decoupling and check the power‑amp stage and muting circuits. Replacement PCBs for soundbars are rarely retail items; component‑level repair or donor boards are the practical path. If you share the model, detailed symptoms, and PCB photos/part numbers, I’ll give you a precise test plan and a parts/replacement strategy.

User question

I want new audio output PCB BORD HOW MACH PRICE

Artificial Intelligence Response

Direct answer to the question

  • Typical price range:
    • Off‑the‑shelf “audio output” (power‑amp) boards: about $5–$90 depending on power and features.
    • Universal soundbar main/amp boards (with BT/optical/AUX): about $25–$100.
    • OEM replacement boards for a specific brand/model: about $40–$250+ if available.
  • To give you an exact price, I need your device model or the specs you want (power, voltage, inputs, size).

Detailed problem analysis

  • “Audio output PCB board” can mean two different things: 1) Power amplifier module (speaker‑level output). Examples: 2×15–50 W Class‑D (TPA3116/3118), 2×100–300 W (TPA3255/IRS2092). 2) A soundbar/receiver “main board” that integrates DSP, inputs (optical/BT/HDMI‑ARC), volume control, and the power amp.
  • Price drivers:
    • Output power and topology: Higher wattage and better THD+N/SNR (e.g., TPA3255 with low‑noise front‑end) cost more than basic Class‑D modules.
    • Features: Bluetooth, optical (S/PDIF), HDMI‑ARC/eARC, remote control, DSP EQ raise cost.
    • Supply voltage/current: Boards designed for 24–36 V rails and large peak currents use larger inductors, MOSFETs, and better heatsinking.
    • OEM specificity: Exact replacement boards for branded devices are scarcer and often priced high; many manufacturers only sell through service channels.
    • Availability/region and shipping/taxes: Small modules can ship cheaply; OEM boards often have higher shipping or core charges.
  • Practical power categories and typical prices (board only):
    • 2×3–5 W (PAM8403 class): $1–$3.
    • 2×15–30 W (TPA3110/3118): $6–$12.
    • 2×30–50 W (TPA3116D2): $8–$25 depending on layout and components.
    • 1×200–300 W or 2×100–150 W (TPA3255/IRS2092 class): $30–$90+; premium designs can exceed this.
    • Universal soundbar main boards with BT + optical + AUX + 2×25–50 W: $25–$80; with HDMI‑ARC/DSP: $60–$120.
    • OEM brand‑specific main/amp PCBs: $40–$250+ (availability is the limiting factor).
  • If you meant “have a new PCB fabricated” (custom board):
    • Bare PCB proto (2‑layer, ~100×50 mm, 5–10 pcs): ~$10–$30 total plus shipping.
    • 4‑layer or thick copper adds cost (2–3×).
    • Assembly (PCBA) for 1–10 pcs: roughly $30–$150 per board plus parts; complex or fine‑pitch parts cost more.
    • BOM (ICs, inductors, caps, connectors) often dominates cost for audio amps.

Current information and trends

  • Market trend: Class‑D amplifier ICs with integrated protection and high efficiency dominate low‑cost modules (e.g., TPA3116/TPA3255 families). Universal soundbar boards bundling BT 5.x, optical, and simple DSP are widely available and typically $25–$80. OEM replacements remain expensive and sometimes unobtainable outside authorized service.
  • For budgeting today (December 2025), assume an extra $5–$20 for shipping and local tax in the United States for small modules.

Supporting explanations and details

  • Key specs to match:
    • Speaker load: 4–8 Ω.
    • Required power: continuous/RMS per channel at your speaker impedance and supply voltage.
    • Supply: Voltage (e.g., 12/19/24 V) and current capability; noise quality of the PSU strongly affects hiss and hum.
    • Inputs/features: Line‑in, optical S/PDIF, Bluetooth, HDMI‑ARC/eARC, remote.
    • Mechanical: Board size, mounting holes, connector style and location.
  • Noise/hiss considerations:
    • Use boards with proper LC output filters, ground planning, and input buffering.
    • Use a low‑ripple, appropriately rated SMPS; add input LC/PI filters if needed.
    • Keep high‑current loops short; separate signal/ground returns; use shielded input wiring.

Ethical and legal aspects

  • Safety: If the board interfaces with mains (internal PSU), follow electrical safety standards and use proper insulation/creepage distances.
  • Compliance: For consumer resale, consider EMC (FCC), safety (UL/IEC), RoHS. Counterfeit/remarked ICs exist in the low‑cost market—buy from reputable sellers.

Practical guidelines

  • If you want a quick, low‑cost upgrade/repair:
    • For 2×30–50 W at 4–8 Ω with 19–24 V supply: choose a TPA3116D2 board ($10–$25). With a 24 V/6–8 A PSU, total typically $35–$60 including PSU, cabling, and shipping.
    • For higher power or better fidelity: TPA3255 board ($40–$90) + 36 V PSU; total $80–$160.
    • For a soundbar replacement board with BT + optical: $30–$70; add $10–$20 if you need HDMI‑ARC or a matching IR keypad/remote.
  • Before buying, collect:
    • Device model (if replacing OEM) or your target specs (channels, power).
    • Existing power adapter voltage/current, or space for an internal PSU.
    • Required inputs/features; mechanical constraints (L×W×H, standoffs).
  • Test/verify after installation:
    • Power up with a current‑limited bench supply first.
    • Check DC offset at outputs (<50 mV typical).
    • Sweep volume with dummy loads before connecting speakers.

Possible disclaimers or additional notes

  • OEM board availability can change and pricing can swing significantly; sometimes buying a donor unit is cheaper than a new OEM PCB.
  • Very low advertised power ratings can be “peak/PMPO.” Use RMS into your load at your supply voltage for real comparisons.

Suggestions for further research

  • If you share your device model or desired specs (power, voltage, inputs, size), I can shortlist 2–3 specific boards and give a line‑item cost (board + PSU + accessories) for your location.
  • If you prefer a custom PCB, I can provide a reference design (IC choice, schematic, PCB stackup, BOM) and a fabrication/assembly cost estimate.

Brief summary

  • Expect $5–$90 for generic power‑amp boards, $25–$100 for universal soundbar boards, and $40–$250+ for OEM replacements. Exact price depends on power, features, and availability. Tell me your device model or target specs and I’ll give you a precise recommendation and total cost.

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