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LG 32LB561B PSU Schematic and 50V LED Output Fault

User question

I'm looking for the schematics of the PSU used in the TV LG 32LB561B. The LED voltage output
is only 50V

Artificial Intelligence ResponseLABEL_AI_GENERATED

Direct answer to the question

For the LG 32LB561B, the PSU/backlight supply is normally the LGP32-14PL1, with PCB number typically EAX65391401 — revisions such as 2.8, 3.0 or Rev 3.1 are seen in this family. The schematic is commonly listed as:

lg_eax65391401_lgp32-14pl1_psu_sch.pdf

It is available on repair-schematic repositories such as Electronica-PT, eServiceInfo, Club de Diagramas and similar TV repair databases. Electronica-PT specifically lists “LG EAX65391401 (3.0), LGP32-14PL1 Rev3.1” as PSU Schematics. (electronica-pt.com)

However, your symptom — LED output only around 50 V — often does not mean the PSU is bad. On this LG PSU, 50 V is commonly the pre-boost / standby backlight rail. If the LED driver starts, detects an open LED string, and then shuts down, the voltage collapses back to about 50 V. In many cases the fault is open-circuit backlight LEDs inside the panel, not the PSU.


Detailed problem analysis

1. Correct PSU identification

For this model family, look on the PSU silkscreen/sticker for one of these markings:

Item Likely marking
PSU model LGP32-14PL1
PCB number EAX65391401
Other related PCB reference EAX65693102 in some listings
Typical revision Rev 2.8, 3.0, 3.1
LED driver IC Often MAP3202 / MAP3202SIRH or similar marking
TV chassis family LC43B / related LG 32LB series

Search databases list LGP32-14PL1 EAX65391401 directly as a repair schematic / PSU schematic entry. (eserviceinfo.com)

Use search terms such as:

lg_eax65391401_lgp32-14pl1_psu_sch.pdf
EAX65391401 LGP32-14PL1 schematic
LG 32LB561B LGP32-14PL1 power supply schematic

Do not rely only on the TV model number; LG often used the same PSU across several related 32-inch models.


2. Meaning of the 50 V LED output

The backlight section is a boost constant-current LED driver. It does not behave like a fixed-voltage supply.

A simplified operating sequence is:

  1. The PSU generates an intermediate DC rail, often around 50–60 V.
  2. When the main board sends BL-ON / DRV-ON / INV-ON, the LED driver starts.
  3. The boost converter raises the LED+ voltage to whatever is needed to force the programmed LED current through the LED strings.
  4. If the driver detects:

    • open LED string,
    • no current feedback,
    • overvoltage,
    • abnormal return voltage,
    • shorted LED line,

    it shuts the boost converter down.

  5. After shutdown, the LED+ line may sit at about 50 V, which is the remaining pre-boost rail.

So, 50 V alone is not enough to condemn the PSU.

For a 32-inch LG using this type of backlight arrangement, the working LED voltage is often much higher than 50 V — commonly around 100–140 V, depending on the exact LED strip version and current setting. If you only see 50 V and the backlight never lights, the most likely causes are:

Observation Likely cause
Voltage briefly jumps above 100 V then falls to 50 V Open LED strip / open LED bead
Voltage remains fixed at 50 V, no spike BL-ON missing, DIM signal missing, LED driver fault, boost MOSFET/diode issue
Voltage rises very high then shuts down Open LED load or disconnected LED connector
Voltage low and pulsing Driver entering protection, bad electrolytic capacitor, shorted LED, overload
No 50 V at all PSU secondary fault, startup/control issue

3. Recommended diagnostic procedure

Step 1 — Check whether the TV has picture

Turn the TV on and shine a strong flashlight at the LCD panel.

  • If you can faintly see the image/menu:
    Main board and panel logic are probably working; backlight system is faulty.

  • If there is no image, no sound, or no standby function:
    The fault may be broader than the LED supply.

Step 2 — Measure LED voltage correctly

Use a DMM rated for at least 250–600 V DC.

Measure preferably across the LED connector, between LED+ and LED−, not randomly to chassis unless the schematic confirms the reference point.

Procedure:

  1. Connect the meter before powering on.
  2. Switch on the TV.
  3. Watch the meter during the first 1–3 seconds.

Interpretation:

  • Brief spike to about 100–140 V, then back to 50 V:
    Very strong indication of open LED strip.

  • No spike, only 50 V:
    Check the control signals from the main board:

    • PWR-ON
    • BL-ON / DRV-ON
    • PWM-DIM / ADJ
    • standby 3.5 V / 5 V rail
  • No LED rail at all:
    Investigate the PSU secondary supply and startup circuitry.

Step 3 — Use an LED backlight tester

The most reliable test is with a dedicated LED tester.

  1. Disconnect the LED cable from the PSU.
  2. Connect the LED tester to the LED harness going into the panel.
  3. Observe whether the backlight lights uniformly.

Results:

LED tester result Meaning
LEDs light normally PSU backlight driver or control issue
Tester voltage rises high and no light Open LED string
Some zones light, some do not Failed strip or bad connector
Very low voltage / tester current limit Shorted LED or wiring fault

For this LG series, failed LEDs are very common. If one LED goes open in a series string, the whole backlight string stops and the PSU goes into protection.


Current information and trends

The schematic is not usually included in the consumer user manual. It is normally found separately under the PSU board number. Electronica-PT lists LG EAX65391401 (3.0), LGP32-14PL1 Rev3.1 as a downloadable PSU schematic, and other repair databases list the same file name lg_eax65391401_lgp32-14pl1_psu_sch.pdf. (electronica-pt.com)

Also note that some repair listings for the LG 32LB561B identify the TV with LGP32-14PL1 and panel LC320DXE variants, which is consistent with this PSU/backlight architecture. (dvbshd.blogspot.com)

In practical TV repair, replacing the entire PSU for this symptom often does not solve the fault, because the real failure is frequently the LED strip set. Modern repair practice is to test the LED array first before changing the PSU.


Supporting explanations and details

LED driver section

On the LGP32-14PL1 family, the LED boost circuit is typically built around:

Function Typical component area
LED controller IC801, often MAP3202-family
Boost MOSFET Q801 or nearby
Boost diode D801 or similar
LED output capacitors High-voltage electrolytics, often 160 V / 200 V class
Current-sense resistors Low-ohm resistor bank in LED return path
Feedback/protection LED− sense, OVP divider, current sense

The LED driver is a constant-current regulator, so it raises or lowers voltage automatically to maintain LED current. Therefore, the measured voltage depends on whether the LED load is connected and healthy.

Why open LEDs cause shutdown

The LED driver expects current through the LED string. If the LED string is open:

\[ I_{LED} \approx 0 \]

The controller increases duty cycle trying to raise voltage. When the overvoltage or no-current condition is detected, it shuts down. The rail then drops back to the non-boosted level, often around 50 V.

That is why technicians often see:

Power on → LED+ jumps briefly → backlight flashes or does not light → voltage falls to 50 V

This is a classic open-backlight symptom.


Safety notes

This PSU contains dangerous voltages.

  • Primary bulk capacitor may hold around 320–400 V DC.
  • LED boost output may exceed 100 V DC.
  • The LCD panel is fragile; opening it can easily crack the glass or damage diffuser sheets.
  • Do not defeat LED protection permanently.
  • Do not operate the LED driver unloaded for extended periods.

If you are not experienced with offline SMPS repair, use an isolation transformer and proper HV-rated probes, or have the PSU/LED strips tested by a TV repair technician.


Practical guidelines

If you only need the schematic

Look for:

LG EAX65391401 LGP32-14PL1 PSU SCH
LGP32-14PL1 REV3.1 PCB EAX65391401 schematic
lg_eax65391401_lgp32-14pl1_psu_sch.pdf

Prioritize the schematic matching your board revision printed on the PCB.

If you want to repair the fault

Recommended sequence:

  1. Confirm PSU board number: EAX65391401 / LGP32-14PL1.
  2. Check standby and main supply rails.
  3. Check BL-ON / DRV-ON from the main board.
  4. Watch LED+ at power-on for a brief boost pulse.
  5. Test LED strips with an LED tester.
  6. If LEDs are open, replace the full strip set, not only one LED if possible.
  7. After LED repair, reduce the TV backlight setting in the user menu to extend LED life.

Some technicians also reduce LED current by modifying the current-sense resistor network, but this should only be done if you understand the MAP3202 current-sense circuit and verify the current afterward. An incorrect modification can cause poor brightness, protection trips, or LED/PSU damage.


Brief summary

  • The PSU schematic you need is for LGP32-14PL1 / EAX65391401, commonly found as lg_eax65391401_lgp32-14pl1_psu_sch.pdf.
  • A measured 50 V LED output usually indicates the LED boost converter is not staying active.
  • If the voltage briefly rises and then falls to 50 V, suspect open LED strips, not the PSU.
  • Test the backlight with an LED tester before replacing the power board.
  • Be careful: the PSU and LED output contain hazardous voltages.

Disclaimer: The responses provided by artificial intelligence (language model) may be inaccurate and misleading. Elektroda is not responsible for the accuracy, reliability, or completeness of the presented information. All responses should be verified by the user.

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