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A typical wired rolling shutter motor is connected using a dedicated roller shutter / blind switch, not an ordinary light switch.
For a common 4-wire tubular shutter motor:
| Function | Typical wire color | Connection |
|---|---|---|
| Live / phase supply | Brown / black | To switch terminal L / COM |
| Neutral | Blue / white | Directly to motor neutral |
| Earth / protective ground | Green-yellow / green / bare | Directly to motor earth/ground |
| Motor UP direction | Brown / black / labeled UP | To switch output ▲ / UP / 1 |
| Motor DOWN direction | Black / red / labeled DOWN | To switch output ▼ / DOWN / 2 |
Basic logic:
Supply Live ─────── L / COM on shutter switch
Switch UP output ─── Motor UP wire
Switch DOWN output ─ Motor DOWN wire
Supply Neutral ───── Motor Neutral
Supply Earth ─────── Motor Earth
The most important rule: the UP and DOWN motor wires must never be energized at the same time. Use only a proper interlocked rolling shutter switch or shutter control module.
Most wired rolling shutter motors are single-phase AC tubular motors. They usually have:
Internally, the motor has two windings or directional circuits. Applying live voltage to one direction wire makes the motor rotate one way. Applying live voltage to the other direction wire makes it rotate the opposite way.
So the switch does not reverse polarity like a DC motor controller. Instead, it selects which AC direction input receives live voltage.
Functionally:
UP pressed:
Live → UP winding → motor raises shutter
DOWN pressed:
Live → DOWN winding → motor lowers shutter
STOP / neutral position:
No live sent to either direction wire
For a simple mechanical wall switch, the switch usually has three main terminals:
| Switch terminal | Meaning |
|---|---|
| L, COM, or common | Incoming live supply |
| ▲, UP, 1 | Switched live output to motor UP wire |
| ▼, DOWN, 2 | Switched live output to motor DOWN wire |
The neutral and earth do not normally go through the mechanical switch.
Typical connection:
Mains / supply side Rolling shutter motor
Live ───── L / COM on switch
Switch ▲ ───────────── Motor UP wire
Switch ▼ ───────────── Motor DOWN wire
Neutral ─────────────────────────── Motor Neutral
Earth / PE ──────────────────────── Motor Earth / PE
If the shutter moves in the opposite direction from the button marking, switch off the power and swap the two motor direction wires at the switch:
Motor UP wire ↔ Motor DOWN wire
A smart shutter switch, Wi-Fi/Zigbee module, or home automation shutter relay usually needs permanent power.
It will often have terminals such as:
| Terminal | Function |
|---|---|
| L | Permanent live input |
| N | Neutral for powering the electronics |
| O1 / UP / ▲ | Output to motor UP wire |
| O2 / DOWN / ▼ | Output to motor DOWN wire |
| S1 / S2 | Optional wall switch inputs |
| COM | Common for external switch input, depending on model |
Typical smart module connection:
Supply Live ───── L on smart module
Supply Neutral ── N on smart module and motor neutral
Module O1 / UP ─── Motor UP wire
Module O2 / DOWN ─ Motor DOWN wire
Supply Earth ───── Motor Earth
Important: many smart shutter modules require neutral in the wall box. If your existing mechanical switch box contains only live and two switched outputs, a smart switch may not work unless a neutral conductor is added.
Do not use two independent ordinary light switches unless they are mechanically or electrically interlocked.
A proper rolling shutter switch prevents this dangerous condition:
Live → UP wire
Live → DOWN wire
at the same time.
Energizing both direction wires simultaneously can:
Use one of these instead:
In most installations:
Do not disconnect the protective earth. If the motor or shutter housing requires grounding, it must remain bonded.
The wall switch usually does not decide where the shutter stops. The end positions are controlled by:
If the shutter stops too early or runs too far, the problem is usually not the switch wiring. It is probably the motor limit adjustment.
Assume a European-style 230 V shutter motor:
Motor cable:
| Motor wire | Function |
|---|---|
| Blue | Neutral |
| Green/yellow | Earth |
| Brown | Up |
| Black | Down |
Supply cable:
| Supply wire | Function |
|---|---|
| Brown | Live |
| Blue | Neutral |
| Green/yellow | Earth |
Connection:
Supply brown live ─────── Switch L / COM
Motor brown UP ────────── Switch ▲ / UP
Motor black DOWN ──────── Switch ▼ / DOWN
Supply blue neutral ───── Motor blue neutral
Supply green/yellow PE ── Motor green/yellow PE
If UP and DOWN are reversed, swap the motor brown and black wires at the switch outputs.
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In the United States, wire colors and supply arrangements can differ. You may see:
| US conductor | Typical color |
|---|---|
| Hot / live | Black or red |
| Neutral | White |
| Ground | Green or bare copper |
Some shutter motors may be 120 V AC, some 240 V AC, and some low-voltage DC, depending on the product. The wiring method above applies mainly to AC tubular motors with separate UP and DOWN live inputs. Always check the motor nameplate and switch rating.
The switch must be rated for:
For a standard rolling shutter motor:
Live supply → L/COM of shutter switch
Switch UP output → motor UP wire
Switch DOWN output → motor DOWN wire
Neutral supply → motor neutral directly
Earth/ground → motor earth directly
Use a dedicated interlocked shutter switch. Never energize UP and DOWN simultaneously. If using a smart shutter switch, it usually also needs a neutral connection. If you are unsure about the wire functions or local code requirements, the safe option is to have the connection checked by a qualified electrician.