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– Yes. In > 90 % of the RolloTron 1550 cases with a permanently / rapidly flashing LED and no reaction to keys the root cause is a dried-out electrolytic capacitor in the switch-mode power supply.
– Replacing the small “start-up” capacitor (typically 10 – 47 µF / 50–63 V, low-ESR, 105 °C) and, if already stressed, the secondary 5 V filter capacitor immediately restores normal operation.
– If you do not want to open a 230 V device, a complete unit swap is the safe alternative.
Symptom correlation
• Rapid, steady LED flashing ⇒ µC constantly resets because its 5 V rail collapses.
• No keypad response ⇒ firmware never leaves the boot sequence.
• Motor is silent ⇒ TRIAC bridge never gets an enable command.
Theory of failure
• The RolloTron 1550 uses a fly-back SMPS (BP531x or TNYxxxx series) fed from rectified mains.
• A small electrolytic on the primary side provides the start-up energy for the PWM controller; its ESR rises with age/heat.
• Once ESR > ~10 Ω, the IC brown-outs, the 5 V rail falls below the POR threshold, the LED driver restarts – hence the infinite blink loop.
Confirmation measurements (if you own a meter)
• Board still connected to mains, red probe on C15 (5 V rail), black on GND: you will read 2–3 V saw-tooth instead of clean 5.0 V.
• After capacitor replacement the rail is a flat 5.02 V and the MCU boots instantly.
Component mapping (production variants)
┌──────────┬──────────────┬─────────────┐
│Designator│ Factory part│ Replace by… │
├──────────┼──────────────┼─────────────┤
│ C3 / C5 │ 22 µF 50 V │ 22 µF 50 V low-ESR, 105 °C (e.g. Nichicon PW)│
│ C15 │ 100 µF 16 V │ 100 µF 25 V low-ESR, 105 °C │
└──────────┴──────────────┴─────────────┘
Work procedure (qualified personnel only!)
When the fix is not enough
• Bridge rectifier short → mains fuse trips.
• Reed contact failure → motor runs but stops randomly (LED steady).
• MCU flash corruption (extremely rare) → only factory service can re-flash.
• Field reports from 2023–24 on Elektroda, Haustechnik-Dialog and Reddit confirm capacitor ageing as the predominant issue (usually after 6–10 years of service in warm wall boxes).
• Rademacher’s current production (RolloTron Comfort DuoFern) switched to polymer capacitors with higher ripple ratings to mitigate the problem.
• Surge-protected, galvanically isolated DIN-rail power supplies are being evaluated for next-gen in-wall drives, reducing thermal stress.
• Analogy: Think of the start-up capacitor as the “starter battery” of a car. If that small battery is weak the engine (PWM IC) cranks but never starts, the dashboard (LED) just keeps blinking.
• ESR rise is exponential with temperature: doubling every 10 K. Cavities behind roller shutters often reach 50 °C in summer; hence premature wear.
• Opening and repairing Class I mains equipment voids warranty and must comply with IEC 60335 & VDE 0700.
• Provide residual-current protection ≤ 30 mA.
• If you are not trained, delegate the repair—electrocution is a real hazard.
• Always replace the entire set of electrolytics while the board is out; the incremental cost is < €2 and avoids repeat failures.
• Choose capacitors rated 105 °C, low-ESR (Panasonic FR, Nichicon PW, United-Chemicon KYB).
• Check belt tension and limit switches after re-installation; wrong limits can stall the motor and overheat the driver.
• A few units (production week 48/2015) shipped with a defective batch of bridge rectifiers (GBU4K); if your board has scorch marks near B1, replacement is mandatory.
• LED slow flashing with keypad still responsive is not the same issue—then it is only waiting for end-position programming.
• Evaluate replacing discrete SMPS with a ready-made 5 W encapsulated module – eliminates capacitor ageing at the cost of space.
• Investigate retro-fitting BLE or Matter-over-Thread control; the 1550 has unpopulated UART pads.
• Long-term: conformal coat boards to fight humidity in exterior walls.
A single dried-out electrolytic in the RolloTron 1550 power supply usually causes the “LED flashes / buttons dead” syndrome. Replacing that 10–47 µF, 50 V start-up capacitor (and ideally the secondary 5 V filter cap) reliably cures the problem. If you are comfortable working on mains electronics, this is a 30-minute, < €5 repair; otherwise opt for professional service or a new drive.