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SABA LED40TD TV internal voltages check and board test points

User question

how can i check internal voltages on a LED40TD SABA TV?

Artificial Intelligence Response

Direct answer to the question

Yes—you can check the internal voltages with a digital multimeter, but do it on the secondary/cold side of the board, not in the mains section. If your SABA LED40TD uses the TP.SIS231.PT85/PT851 family combo board, the most useful checkpoints are:

  • Standby rails
    • 5V_STB
    • 3V3_STB at UL1
  • Main rails after power-on
    • 12V at CNB3 pins 1 and 2
    • 5V at LD1 / CD29
    • 3.3V at UL11 pins 2 and 4
    • 1.0V at CD45
    • 1.5V at CL74
    • Panel supply VCC_Panel at CN12 pins 1 and 3. (electronica-pt.com)

Also, do not assume the backlight rail is a simple fixed 24V. In this chassis family, the LED driver outputs are panel-dependent constant-current outputs, and the specification shows nominal LED string voltages ranging roughly from the low-30V range up to about 57V, depending on which LED connector version the board uses. (electronica-pt.com)


Detailed problem analysis

Your TV likely uses a combo board architecture, where the AC input, power conversion, LED driver, and main logic regulators are on the same PCB. The chassis document shows:

  • CNB1 as the mains input,
  • onboard fuse protection,
  • LED driver connectors such as CNB801/CNB802/CNB803/CNB804/CNB805/CNB807/CNB813,
  • and local low-voltage regulators such as UL1, UL11, UD41, UL61 on the same board. (electronica-pt.com)

That matters because the correct troubleshooting sequence is:

  1. Confirm standby power exists
  2. Confirm the 12V distribution rail exists
  3. Check the local regulators that create 5V, 3.3V, 1.0V, and 1.5V
  4. Check panel supply and backlight only after the logic rails are correct. (electronica-pt.com)

1. First identify the safe reference point

Use your meter’s black probe on secondary ground:

  • a pin marked GND on the low-voltage side,
  • or the GND side of connectors such as CNB3/CNB2,
  • or a known cold-side chassis ground point.
    Do not use the mains/input side around CNB1, bridge rectifier, or primary bulk capacitor as your normal reference for these checks. The chassis schematic clearly separates the mains input area from the low-voltage rails and logic regulators. (electronica-pt.com)

2. Check standby first

With the TV plugged in but still in standby:

  • Look for 5V_STB feeding UL1
  • Check UL1 output = 3V3_STB

The schematic shows UL1 = LC1117CLTR33, converting 5V_STB to 3V3_STB. If these are missing, the TV will usually appear completely dead or will not respond correctly to power-on. (electronica-pt.com)

3. Then check the main rails after pressing Power

When you turn the TV on:

  • CNB3 pins 1 and 2 should have 12V
  • LD1 / CD29 should show 5V
  • UL11 pins 2 and 4 should show 3.3V
  • CD45 should show 1.0V
  • CL74 should show 1.5V. (electronica-pt.com)

These are not guesses—the chassis troubleshooting flow explicitly tells the technician to check:

  • CNB3 pin 1/2 for 12V
  • LD1 and CD29 for 5V
  • UL11 pin 2/4 for 3.3V
  • CD45 for 1.0V
  • CL74 for 1.5V. (electronica-pt.com)

4. What each rail means

  • 12V at CNB3: main distribution rail from the power section into the TV board. (electronica-pt.com)
  • 5V at LD1/CD29: locally generated logic/peripheral supply. The board uses UD1 = TPS54329 in that section. (electronica-pt.com)
  • 3.3V at UL11: main logic supply. The schematic identifies UL11 = LC1117CLTR33. (electronica-pt.com)
  • 1.0V at CD45: CPU core rail generated by UD41 = RT7237CHGSP. (electronica-pt.com)
  • 1.5V at CL74: DDR/memory rail generated by UL61 = LC1117CLTRAD and labeled 1V5_DDR. (electronica-pt.com)

5. Panel voltage check

If the logic rails are correct but there is no picture, check VCC_Panel at CN12 pins 1 and 3. The troubleshooting flow for this chassis specifically points you there. It also indicates the switched panel rail can be 5V or 12V, depending on panel configuration and the panel power switch path around QM1/QM2. (electronica-pt.com)

6. Backlight voltage check

Only check the LED outputs if you are comfortable working around boosted DC rails. The chassis specification lists several possible LED connector arrangements and nominal per-string voltages, including approximately:

So if you expected a simple 24V backlight supply, that expectation is probably wrong for this board family. The LED driver here behaves more like a constant-current boost driver than a simple low-voltage rail. (electronica-pt.com)

7. Fault isolation logic

Use this interpretation:

  • No 5V_STB / no 3V3_STB
    Suspect the standby section first. (electronica-pt.com)

  • Standby present, but no 12V at CNB3
    Suspect the power section / 12V distribution path. The service flow starts with CNB3 for exactly this reason. (electronica-pt.com)

  • 12V present, but no 5V at LD1/CD29
    Suspect the local 5V buck stage around UD1 or its enable path. (electronica-pt.com)

  • 5V present, but no 3.3V at UL11
    Suspect UL11 or a short on the 3.3V rail. (electronica-pt.com)

  • 3.3V present, but 1.0V or 1.5V missing
    Suspect UD41, UL61, or a shorted CPU/DDR load. (electronica-pt.com)

  • Logic rails correct, but no image
    Check VCC_Panel at CN12, LVDS cable seating, and then the panel/T-Con path. The display troubleshooting flow explicitly points to VCC_Panel and CN12. (electronica-pt.com)


Current information and trends

A useful correction to many generic TV-repair guides is this: on these integrated TV chassis, the “backlight voltage” is often not a fixed 24V rail. The available chassis documentation for the TP.SIS231.PT85 family shows multiple LED output connector options with different nominal voltages and currents, which is typical of panel-dependent LED driver implementations used in low-cost LED TVs. (electronica-pt.com)

Another practical trend is that these boards integrate more functions onto one PCB, which means a fault in one section can pull down other rails and make diagnosis confusing unless you check the rails in dependency order: standby → 12V → 5V → 3.3V → 1.0V/1.5V → panel/backlight. (electronica-pt.com)


Supporting explanations and details

Think of the board as a power tree:

  • AC mains enters at CNB1
  • the board creates or routes 12V
  • that 12V is reduced locally to 5V
  • then to 3.3V
  • then to 1.5V and 1.0V for memory and processor core. (electronica-pt.com)

If one upstream rail is missing, the downstream rails will also be missing. For example:

  • No 12V → you will usually also lose the local 5V, 3.3V_M, 1.0V, and 1.5V rails. (electronica-pt.com)
  • No 5V_MUL11, UD41, and UL61 cannot generate their outputs properly. (electronica-pt.com)

This is why random probing is inefficient. Follow the dependency chain.


Ethical and legal aspects

  • The board contains a mains-input SMPS section, so there is a real shock hazard if you probe the wrong side. The schematic shows the AC input and fuse on the same board as the low-voltage logic, which is common in combo-board TVs. (electronica-pt.com)
  • If the set is still under any seller or repair warranty, opening it may void that coverage.
  • If you are not comfortable working on live mains-powered equipment, the correct decision is to stop and use a qualified technician.

Practical guidelines

  • Remove the back cover with the TV unplugged.
  • Photograph the board before touching anything.
  • Find the board marking first. If it says TP.SIS231.PT85 or TP.SIS231.PT851, the checkpoints above are the right starting points. (electronica-pt.com)
  • Clip the black probe to a cold-side GND point before powering the set.
  • Measure in this order:
    1. 5V_STB
    2. 3V3_STB
    3. press power
    4. 12V at CNB3
    5. 5V at CD29/LD1
    6. 3.3V at UL11
    7. 1.0V at CD45
    8. 1.5V at CL74
    9. VCC_Panel at CN12
    10. LED outputs only if needed. (electronica-pt.com)

Best practice:

  • use fine insulated probes,
  • keep one hand away while powered,
  • do not slip across adjacent pins,
  • write down every reading with the TV state: standby or on.

Possible disclaimers or additional notes

The exact connector population can vary. The chassis document itself notes that some connectors are optional, and it lists several LED output connector variants with different voltage/current values. So always trust the silk-screen printed on your actual board over a generic internet diagram. (electronica-pt.com)

If your board number is not TP.SIS231.PT85/PT851, then the rail names may still be similar, but the exact checkpoints can change.


Suggestions for further research

If you want, send:

  • a clear photo of the whole board,
  • the exact board number printed on it,
  • and your voltage readings for:
    • CNB3
    • CD29
    • UL11
    • CD45
    • CL74
    • CN12

Then I can tell you much more precisely whether the fault is in:

  • the power section,
  • a local regulator,
  • the panel supply switch,
  • or the backlight/panel path.

Brief summary

To check internal voltages on your SABA LED40TD, use a multimeter referenced to cold ground and verify the rails in order:

  • 5V_STB
  • 3V3_STB
  • 12V at CNB3
  • 5V at LD1/CD29
  • 3.3V at UL11
  • 1.0V at CD45
  • 1.5V at CL74
  • VCC_Panel at CN12. (electronica-pt.com)

The most important correction is that the LED backlight output on this chassis is not necessarily 24V; it can be significantly higher and depends on the panel/connector version. (electronica-pt.com)

If you send me a board photo, I can mark the exact points you should probe.

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Disclaimer: The responses provided by artificial intelligence (language model) may be inaccurate and misleading. Elektroda is not responsible for the accuracy, reliability, or completeness of the presented information. All responses should be verified by the user.