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• The toilet is not flushing because the cistern (tank) is not refilling.
• 95 % of the time this is caused by one of three things:
Water-supply chain overview
• Stopcock / isolation valve → Supply hose → Fill (inlet) valve → Float/level control → Cistern body → Flush valve & buttons.
• Loss of water at any point upstream of the flush valve prevents flushing.
Step-by-step diagnostic flow
A. Verify external supply
• Locate the small chrome or plastic valve on the pipe feeding the toilet (usually left side, near floor).
• Lever type: parallel to the pipe = open; screwdriver type: slot inline with pipe = open.
• Fully open it. If it was closed, the tank will start filling immediately (you will hear it).
B. Check general pressure
• Open a nearby cold tap. If no water, there is a house-wide issue; restore main supply first.
C. Lid off – visual inspection (dual-flush buttons generally unclip with a quarter-turn)
• Is the float sitting at the bottom? If it is high, gently push it down – water should flow.
• Float stuck high → look for minerals or the arm fouling other parts. Free/clean.
• Examine the refill tube; it should discharge into the overflow tube, not dangle loose.
D. Inlet-valve basic test
• With float down, there should be a solid jet into the tank. Dribble or no flow → clogged valve or blocked filter screen.
E. Service the fill valve (typical Fluidmaster-type, but principle is universal)
F. Consider valve replacement if:
• The body is cracked, heavily scaled, or parts unavailable.
• A new universal “quiet-fill” valve is typically < 15 USD/ £ and installs in < 15 min with one adjustable wrench.
Less-common scenarios
• Flush valve stuck fully open – all incoming water dumps straight into the bowl. Symptom: constant trickle sound in bowl. Hold float down; if water still disappears, replace or reseat flush-valve seal.
• Split cistern or gasket leak – water seen on floor; shut off supply and replace tank or gasket.
Dual-flush specifics
• Buttons only actuate the flush valve; they do not affect filling. Once the fill problem is fixed, both (½-flush and full-flush) buttons will work again.
• Ensure the button rods or cables are not preventing the flush valve from reseating (rare, but can keep valve open).
• Modern fill valves are serviceable; manufacturers such as Fluidmaster, R&T and Torbeck sell replacement diaphragms and filters for a few dollars.
• Water-efficiency regulations (e.g., U.S. EPA WaterSense, EU EN 997) have driven adoption of “delay fill” and bottom-entry quiet valves—direct replacements for older ballcocks.
• Push-fit isolation valves with integral filters are becoming standard, simplifying future maintenance.
• Smart toilets with electronic solenoid fill valves exist; troubleshooting is identical except that 24 V or 230 V control power must be verified as well.
• How the fill valve works: mains water lifts a flexible diaphragm; the float pushes the pin/arm to close the diaphragm once water reaches set height.
• A grain of sand or scale at the pilot orifice prevents differential pressure from lifting the diaphragm → no fill.
• In very hard-water areas, scale can freeze the float guide in the “up” position within 18–24 months. Vinegar soak or valve replacement resolves this.
• Plumbing work on potable water lines must comply with local codes (e.g., IPC, UK Water Regs). Always use WRAS-approved or NSF-61-listed components in drinking-water zones.
• Dispose of old rubber parts responsibly; some contain antimicrobial additives not suitable for general recycling.
• Turn off water before disassembly to prevent accidental flooding and water waste.
• Tools: flat screwdriver, adjustable wrench, towel, bucket, replacement fill valve kit (if required).
• Always depressurize (flush once) before disconnecting the supply hose.
• When re-tightening plastic shank nuts, go hand-tight plus ¼-turn; excessive torque cracks cisterns.
• After repair, perform three full fills and flushes while inspecting for leaks around shank nut, supply hose and cistern base.
Potential challenges & mitigation
• Stuck isolation valve → apply penetrating oil, work gently; if it shears, shut main stopcock and replace valve.
• Lime-scale so thick float cannot be freed → remove entire valve and soak in 1:1 white vinegar for 30 min or replace.
• Non-standard concealed cisterns (in-wall frame) → access via service panel; keep all screws organised.
• If the property has shared risers (apartments), there may be scheduled maintenance shutting water off; confirm with building management.
• Some very old low-pressure gravity systems use header tanks in lofts; if empty, investigate ballcock there instead of at WC.
• Look up manufacturer service sheets (search the code on the fill valve cap).
• Review WaterSense or equivalent local guidelines for potential upgrades that save > 6 L per flush.
• Investigate whole-house sediment filters if inlet filters clog repeatedly.
Your toilet cannot flush because the cistern is not refilling. Start by opening the isolation valve; if that is already open, service or replace the fill valve: clean the inlet filter, ensure the float moves freely, and renew the diaphragm if damaged. These actions restore water to the tank, after which the existing push buttons will resume normal flushing. If you encounter leaking seals, a constantly running bowl, or inaccessible in-wall hardware, call a licensed plumber.
