Samsung WF7602S8V - Washing machine does not turn on, burnt varistor but what?

Welcome.
The washing machine refused to cooperate after the finished washing. It does not turn on, after removing the upper casing and after reconnecting it to the socket, a balloon appeared and I noticed a burnt varistor, although I do not know if it is only a problem. At the moment I would like to mention it but its description does not say anything to anyone: / Does anyone of you have an idea how to identify him? Google suggests only some Russian forum, on which someone suggested the use of varistor JVR-14N 270K but also not easy to get: /

Somehow I am not convinced by the definition of your description ... Even the element JH14 270M looks more like a thermistor and in addition I have doubts about its damage. I assume, however, that it is a thermistor and slightly heated in this lagoon, and therefore it has changed the color at the bottom (measure with the meter how much Ω is it?). Of course, the lack of measurement will mean that it is a varistor. The principle is one in recognition (whether it is a thermistor or a varistor) in the thermistor supply in series, and the varistor in parallel, and therefore you recognize yourself.

Going further if the washing machine is in fact cold, we deal with a burned inverter (integrated circuit, a resistor maybe some diode), there may still be a need to replace the electrolytic capacitor. So measurements and the work of a friend
PS.
Here you just have everything you need to repair including a piece of the diagram.

Hi. I measured the resistance with the meter and the element has 24 ohms. The Tny266Pn integrated circuit and capacitor were also taken into account to replace them, because in other threads I could see that they often fell, but I am not an electronic one and I am beginning to doubt whether I can track down all the faults. I thought it was a varistor because I found such information on the Russian forum. In addition to this, the rest visually looks flawless, but realizes that the visual state is not meaningful. Thank you for your answer.

Hello, the element mentioned in the first post is a PTC thermistor (posistor), the temperature increase causes an increase in resistance (the PCB on the PCB: PTC1) varistors on the plate are marked as "VAR ....", this posistor at 25 degrees should have 270 ohm , it rarely gets damaged.
According to the advice of the previous speaker, check what to do with the inverter on TNY266, Capacitor CE1 (10MIKRO / 400V), voltage on IC5 (stabilizer 7805),

Thank you for your response. I'm looking for google on how to check these items with a multimeter and if I can not do it, I'll just replace them. You helped me a lot, thanks.

To be certain, I soldered out this thermistor and unfortunately it still has 24 ohms at room temperature, not 270 as you wrote. Could you tell me what values a substitute thermistor should have, maybe I could buy something similar. The tny266pn system probably does not check the multimeter so I have to replace it anyway.

In the evening I will check this thermistor on the PCB and desolder it and let you know what its value is.

And I was hoping that maybe this thermistor is ok and I will replace today TNY, capacitor, stabilizer and it will be ok. Okay, then I'm waiting for info from you and thanks for help.

Halifax wrote:

I measured the resistance and the element has 24 ohms

So my theory works even with this quote below.

Halifax wrote:

a Russian forum on which someone suggested the use of the varistor JVR-14N 270K

However, due to the fact that sometimes a physically damaged thermistor has a measurement, and you did not give a picture after it was soldered, I can not optically tell it myself. Always thermistors that I had to deal with have little, but when we heat such a soldering iron, for example, their resistance increases.
However, you give photos of extra quality on both sides of the tile, and I mark what you have to measure and what to replace (certainly not more than PLN 20), and certainly it will result in success.

It's a waste of time and the west for such trivial damage.

Halifax wrote:

I probably will not check the TNY266PN with a multimeter

The above is also not true, but see above.

Visually, the elements looked ok, except a slightly swollen capacitor 10 & micro; F / 450V and a capacitor with a 470 & micro; F / 16V stabilizer. My suspicions fell on the thermistor, because after the balloon appeared from the area of the plate, I decided that it was him and it was after him, although his shield is not damaged in any way. Unfortunately, I can only take photos, I do not know if you can see anything on them? Thank you for your time.

Focus on the part marked in yellow. Electrolytic capacitor 10 & micro; F / 450V (I think you mentioned), but you have bad solder. Check the resistor if it has 100R and replace the TNY266PN integrated circuit. You can unold the stabilizer from the PCB for holy peace and give him the voltage separately to input and measure it on the output.
 
However, when you check the bridge on the heat sink, check the relays in its vicinity all because in the picture one of them has at least one soldering point that does not look interesting.
 
The thermistor itself should not be damaged in appearance, but it is a difficult challenge for me from the photo and it is not entirely reliable.

The capacitor was desoldered and I put it in the place of the photo The resistor is 98 ohms, so I think it's ok.
Okay, and now enlighten me, do you mean if the heat sink and cables in this black wire are electrically conductive? Because if so, both are dead when one end of the multimeter is applied to the heat sink and the other end to any end of the cable: / Points I checked are ok, but they do not look good.

PS.
Correct relocate this image (it does not display third from the end) - stabilizer

The stabilizer was soldered out, I gave it 12v 1000mA input but it has some residual voltage at the input and changes every moment, in addition the voltage also drops from 12v to some minimum values. Maybe I damaged it with this current ...

Added after 2 [hours] 29 [minutes]: < br />

 Okay, I did 100 km and I bought all the parts except for this thermistor, of course. I showed this thermistor in the shop and the gentlemen insisted that it was a varistor and they gave me JVR-14N 431K 275V, I took it just in case. I'm taking to soldering and I'm waiting for info from you "Gamoń" what resistance you have on this item. I wonder if if I connect the plate with this old thermistor, if it is damaged then something will burn again ...

Gamoń you wrote that as the temperature increases, the resistance increases, in my case it is the opposite: /

I noticed something else, including the first big black relay in the middle of the summer in bulk and its upper casing with these two copper contacts can be easily pulled up, the other next to it is so ... In addition, I see that it is not produkują: /

Hello, regarding the problematic TERMISTOR! it has a value (measured on two samsung plates) 27ohm (meter on the 200ohm range), as the temperature increases MALEJE resistance (i.e. like you), I suggested that the plate is marked as PTC1 (meaning PTC tertmistor), regarding the value I thought it was 270 ohms, but the big m is probably tolerance (but I was wrong ...) they just wrote OM,
As for the RY1 relay, it is the main relay, RY2 turns on the heater. if in the middle of RY1 something is damaged, solder it out and check it (the coil is on 12v),

I already suspected that 270M is supposed to mean 27 ohms, but after careful inspection, I thought it was a 0 and not a letter O Besides, it seemed to me It is unlikely that someone would have marked it, but I was wrong. Thank you so much for wanting to check it out. I connected the relay from the top to the 12V power supply and silence, but I probably did not do it well, because after connecting from the bottom of the large contacts on the top, however, it works. Is this how it should be?

Once I was repairing a samsung board, which, like yours, had a damaged relay, I chose an electronics store similar in size with a suitable current load of 16A, the only thing I had to do was replace the wires in the plug (one working contact is not connected to pcb). Or maybe some damaged tile with alegro or olx?

MOMENCIK! Which means :
 I connected the relay from the top to the 12v power supply and silence ??

edit:
the relay has four soldering points on the underside, between two horizontal resistance about 270 ohm and the coil and so connect 12v, working contacts without voltage 12v are to have a break after the 12v supply is to be shorted.

When I connect from the bottom it works, I was fooled by this description on the housing, where it says 12v at the top and twice 250v at the bottom but I should have guessed after the thickness of the outputs. Wstyd mi I want to solder it and check this board but I'm worried about something flying in the middle of the relay. It's probably a piece of plastic that broke off and that's why the top of this switch does not stick to 100%. What are you doing?

Added after 6 [minutes]:

 Eh, the coil works but the relay does not close the circuit on these contacts at the top.

If you claim that the relay in every position is ok, then solder it to the PCB and see after connecting the plate to the washing machine what voltage you have on this electrolyte 400v (should be something around 300v DC)
Just be careful

Relay for replacement. from what I remember, I paid something like PLN 25 for this fake transmitter,

Exactly, I've changed these elements, I'm bothering you the other day and here the relay was a problem. Thank you for your help, I will try to get something similar, if it will be very different, I will speak out. Have a nice evening

Welcome back. Today I could not get a similar relay anywhere, so desperate I decided to fix it The washing machine is just catching up with the whole week Thank you so much for your help, patience and, above all, forbearance. One more time GREAT THANKS