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Choosing a Standard Pressure Switch for Submersible Pump Without Reservoir: Omnigen vs Alledrogo

Ariel N. 15186 16
Best answers

Can I use a standard pressure switch without dry-run protection for a submersible pump if the installation already has a water-level probe cutoff?

No — a plain pressure switch/contact is not suitable for this setup unless the pump is also protected against dry running. A reply states that in this kind of application you need a hydrophore automatic unit that monitors both pressure and flow; if pressure drops but flow does not appear after a delay, it stops the motor [#17169572] Another reply warns that without a pressure tank/accumulator a standard switch can make the pump start very frequently, even many times per minute [#17169448] If you add even a small diaphragm tank, then a simple pressure switch becomes the normal solution [#17169361]
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  • #1 17169332
    Ariel N.
    Level 3  
    Posts: 280
    Rate: 60
    Good day.
    I would like to use a pressure switch for a submersible pump not equipped with a hydrophobic tank and I have a problem with choosing this switch.
    I noticed that for pumps without a hydrophobic tank there are other switches that protect against dry running.
    I have a sensor in the pump installation that protects it from working when the water level drops below a certain level. In this situation, can I use a standard pressure sensor without dry running protection?
    Let's say omnigen with alledrogo for 20-30 PLN.
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  • #2 17169361
    stanislaw1954
    Level 43  
    Posts: 15118
    Help: 1999
    Rate: 4612
    Why don't you install even one of the smaller diaphragm tanks? You will have greater comfort of use.
  • #3 17169370
    kierbedz4
    Level 36  
    Posts: 2708
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    Is the submersible pump built into a traditional dug well or is there a borehole? If it is a dug well, it is possible to install a float switch. during installation in the switching station, such a configuration that the pump, when the water level falls and the float drops to a certain position, switches off when the float switch is activated and the pump should be switched on manually after some time.
  • #4 17169383
    stanislaw1954
    Level 43  
    Posts: 15118
    Help: 1999
    Rate: 4612
    Kierbedz4 -Ariel N. has a dry-running protection installed.
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  • #5 17169441
    Ariel N.
    Level 3  
    Posts: 280
    Rate: 60
    I have installed probes immersed with a pump - why a float?
    I have a tank at home for the needs of a house tube to be an extra leg. I don't want to go into details, the whole installation is too extensive.
    I would like to find out if the switch mentioned above in the section without a tank (because the section operated by him does not have one) will be fine.
    And find out if the only difference between cheap switches and those dedicated to installation without a tank is that the dedicated ones have a water flow sensor and protect against dry running, because if that's the only difference, I already know everything I wanted.
    Btw the well is not dug, it is drilled. I dipped 3 probes with the pump. One under the pump, the second one a bit above and the third one much above.
    When the mirror drops below 2, it cuts the power to the power supply until it reaches 3.
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  • #6 17169448
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • #7 17169463
    Ariel N.
    Level 3  
    Posts: 280
    Rate: 60
    And what is the pressure stored in by a switch dedicated to work without a tank?
    Pump - pipe - sensor - tap?

    The point is that when the timer opens the solenoid valve for irrigation, the pump is to start. When the timer closes the solenoid valve, the pump is to stop. The start signal for the pump is to be a pressure drop. Why the pressure drop and not the valve opening impulse?
    Because when the valve jams, the pump will work without draining.
    Why without a hydrophobic tank - because the capacity of the bed is sufficient for continuous pump operation and there is no room for a tank in the coils.
    Not ready set because the supply pipe is 1 1/2 inch and sets usually max 1 inch.

    I would just like to avoid a situation where the pump starts every second every second.
  • #8 17169488
    kierbedz4
    Level 36  
    Posts: 2708
    Help: 307
    Rate: 1006
    The question is posed in the last paragraph: Can I use an ordinary sensor without dry running protection in this situation? The answer is short. No, the dry-running sensor must turn off the pump when the water drops to a minimum of half a meter from the water inlet to the pump and if the sensor you write about will work with a delay, in this case I do not know what bearings work in the pump because for 30 years of work with the above-mentioned pumps, There were bearings in the form of rubber, where the hole in the rubber sleeve in which the rotor sleeve worked was hexagonal due to the quick lubrication with water. When the pump was running on dry running, the sleeve installed on the rotor shaft was seized because the rubber bearing on the sleeve melted and the details were vulcanized. you shouldn't check without lowering it into the water.
  • #9 17169514
    Ariel N.
    Level 3  
    Posts: 280
    Rate: 60
    I know so much about the pump:
    Submersible Pump SDM Premium - PLN 679 gross (diameter 99mm) IBO
    Construction
    Rotors, diffusers: - Reinforced polymer - (much better rotors)
    better shaft sealing.
    Pump housings: - stainless steel
    Pump shaft - stainless steel
    Filter mesh - stainless steel
    longer cable 18m (longer cable)
    Cable sheath - stainless steel
    Mounting screws - stainless steel
    Clutch - stainless steel (new clutch model)

    - capacity max - 105 l / minute = 6.3 m3 per hour
    -pressure max 6 bar

    Added after 6 [minutes]:

    Okay, and what protects the pump from running dry if I have a tank and a cheaper switch? :D

    The second probe is more than one meter above the third pump 6 meters
  • #10 17169572
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
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  • #11 17169594
    Ariel N.
    Level 3  
    Posts: 280
    Rate: 60
    Ok, I agree - the pump cannot run dry.
    Therefore, in the configuration, the pump without a tank has a switch with a flow analysis function.
    But why then the second set is a tank with a simple contact?
    Now what, throw the probes in the trash?
    Because I can not understand why this more expensive switch if the probe cuts off the pump? These switches operate for a few seconds and the probes for a few ms
  • #12 17169618
    stanislaw1954
    Level 43  
    Posts: 15118
    Help: 1999
    Rate: 4612
    Ariel N. wrote:
    Now what, throw the probes in the trash?
    Absolutely not. Just put that extra pressure switch (it's not expensive) on this "leg". If it turns out that it meets the requirements you expected, it is good. If not, you will install a more expensive hydrophore machine.
  • #13 17169633
    Ariel N.
    Level 3  
    Posts: 280
    Rate: 60
    The problem of this hydrophore unit is not only the price, because it will get over the PLN 80 more. The worst thing is that they have a 3/8 inch connection and this is a failure with this number of sprinklers.
    So I will put on the cheaper one and lead the wires to the bulb above the wells. Its lighting will signal the operation of the pump, if I have a disco at night, I will break the contact.
    You drew my attention to a quite important point - the water is not springy, I will also give a tee that the blind tube points upwards.
  • #14 17169632
    kierbedz4
    Level 36  
    Posts: 2708
    Help: 307
    Rate: 1006
    If you give the tank, the pump will switch on depending on the pressure on the tank on which the pressure switch is built-in with the appropriate parameters switch on-switch off. You can problem with these probes on one probe. with a long enough cable built into it i After installing the tank, the pump will turn on periodically as the pressure in the tank decreases. Note that the motor of the submersible pump runs at 2800 rpm
  • #15 17169652
    stanislaw1954
    Level 43  
    Posts: 15118
    Help: 1999
    Rate: 4612
    Ariel N. wrote:
    The problem of this hydrophore unit is not only the price, because it will get over the PLN 80 more. The worst thing is that they have a 3/8 inch connection and this is a failure with this number of sprinklers.
    Why are there 1 "even on Ale ...
  • #16 17169664
    Ariel N.
    Level 3  
    Posts: 280
    Rate: 60
    The output goes 1 1/2 inch and reducing this diameter in front of the divider is not an option.
  • #17 17171599
    wodzu_1
    Level 25  
    Posts: 622
    Help: 72
    Rate: 142
    The author of the post is making a stir on the forum once again.

Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around selecting a suitable pressure switch for a submersible pump that lacks a hydrophore tank. The user inquires whether a standard pressure switch can be used in conjunction with a water level sensor that prevents dry running. Various responses suggest that while a standard pressure switch may be used, it is not advisable due to the risk of the pump running dry, which can damage the pump. Alternatives such as installing a diaphragm tank or using a hydrophore unit with flow analysis capabilities are recommended to ensure the pump operates safely. The conversation highlights the importance of having a system that can detect both pressure drops and flow absence to prevent dry running.
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FAQ

TL;DR: For pumps without tanks, avoid short-cycling—"the pump motor will start 20 times per minute"—by using a flow‑sensing controller plus level protection. This FAQ helps homeowners and installers choose between standard switches and automatics for no‑tank setups. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #17169448]

Why it matters: The right control prevents pump damage, nuisance restarts, and dry‑run failures in irrigation or household use.

Quick Facts

Can I use a standard pressure switch without a tank on a submersible pump?

Not recommended. A two-threshold switch lacks flow detection and anti-short-cycle logic. Without an accumulator, it will chatter as demand changes. Use a flow-sensing hydrophore controller that monitors pressure and flow. It starts on pressure drop and stops when flow ceases. “In such an application, there is no ordinary pressure switch.” [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #17169572]

If I already have level probes, do I still need dry-run protection in the controller?

Keep your probes. They protect the source quickly. Still choose a controller with dry-run cut-off. It should stop the pump with the water about 0.5 m above the inlet. “No, the dry-running sensor must turn off the pump.” [Elektroda, kierbedz4, post #17169488]

How does a flow-sensing hydrophore controller work vs a simple pressure switch?

A flow-sensing unit measures both pressure and flow. It starts the pump when pressure drops. If flow is absent and pressure does not rise, it waits a few seconds and stops the motor. This prevents dry-run. A simple switch only reacts to pressure thresholds. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #17169572]

What happens if I rely on pipe elasticity instead of a tank?

The system can short-cycle severely. One forum expert warned the motor could start 20 times per minute. Frequent starts overheat windings and wear contacts. Add a tank or use a controller with anti-short-cycle logic. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #17169448]

Do I need a diaphragm tank for comfort and fewer starts?

A small diaphragm tank increases comfort and reduces starts. It provides a pressure buffer for fixtures. “You will have greater comfort of use.” If space allows, add even a small tank. [Elektroda, stanislaw1954, post #17169361]

Are 1-inch flow controllers available, or only small 3/8-inch models?

Yes. Controllers with 1-inch ports are available, not just small 3/8-inch versions. They suit higher flow better than tiny fittings. Check marketplace listings. [Elektroda, stanislaw1954, post #17169652]

Can I start with a cheap Omnigen pressure switch and upgrade later?

You can trial a budget switch on that branch. Keep your level probes active. If it short-cycles or lacks protection you need, replace it with a hydrophore automatic. “If it meets the requirements you expected, it is good.” [Elektroda, stanislaw1954, post #17169618]

What damage can dry-run cause inside a submersible pump?

Running dry can destroy sleeve and bearing interfaces. The rubber bearing can melt onto the shaft sleeve and seize. This failure locks the rotor and ruins the pump. Never test a submersible out of water. [Elektroda, kierbedz4, post #17169488]

My irrigation opens a solenoid valve; how do I make the pump auto-start and stop without a tank?

Use a flow-sensing controller. 1) Install it on the discharge line before the manifold. 2) Wire its output to the pump’s motor circuit. 3) Set cut-in and enable dry-run stop; verify start on pressure drop and stop when flow ends. “In such an application, there is no ordinary pressure switch.” [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #17169572]

Why trigger on pressure drop rather than the valve’s signal?

Pressure-drop start ensures the valve actually opened. If a valve jams, a signal-only start could run the pump without flow. That risks dry-run. The OP chose pressure-drop for this reason. [Elektroda, Ariel N., post #17169463]

What pump specs should guide my controller or switch choice?

Match controller ratings to the pump’s flow and pressure. Example: an IBO SDM Premium lists about 105 l/min and 6 bar max. Ensure the controller and piping handle those values and the connection sizes. [Elektroda, Ariel N., post #17169514]

Are frequent starts hard on 2800 rpm submersible motors?

Yes. These motors spin around 2800 rpm. Rapid cycling raises thermal and mechanical stress. Fewer starts mean longer life. Use a tank or anti-short-cycle logic to limit starts. [Elektroda, kierbedz4, post #17169632]

Do I need a float switch in a borehole if I already use probes?

Floats fit traditional dug wells well. In boreholes, electrode probes provide effective level protection. If probes exist and operate, you can skip adding a float. Configure manual restart if desired. [Elektroda, kierbedz4, post #17169370]
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