Xiaomi Powerbank 20000mAh Problem: Not Charging, Button LED Issues & 3.292V Reading - Solutions?

Hi.
I have had a power bank for 3 years and I use it from time to time but it is usually charged. Now I used it more often and I was going to charge it. I used it today and it "ran out of electricity", so when I came home I wanted to connect the powerbank for charging. Unfortunately, it doesn't respond to the charger at all. The button lights up all the LEDs that go out in turn, unfortunately nothing happens when connected. I opened it and after measuring on + and - it shows 3.292 V. Unfortunately, I do not know how to remove the board from the housing to do nothing and verify that the charging socket is OK. 1500 mA charger. What can I do, is it still suitable for something?

Colleague, measure the voltage on the cell when connecting to the charger will know if there is voltage. Clean the charging socket beforehand.

Ok, I measured it and it turned out so that the battery normally showed 3,292 V after connecting, nothing changed. However, I left electricity for 12 hours and the voltage increased to 3.324V. It made me think, and I looked at the power bank under the microscope. I noticed that the MicroUsb socket would probably be the fault. It seems like 3 out of 5 legs were slightly broken. I was on the site and they sang 60-70 PLN. Little profitable price a bit,

Can such things be soldered only with hot air? I have a soldering station, tin rosin and solder paste, but I suppose it may not be suitable for such things. Does anyone know where it can be cheaper? Because in total, a bit expensive, 70 PLN as a new power bank is about 120-130 PLN

An ordinary soldering iron and a good flux, and you can change the socket yourself. I recommend a flat tip to heat all pins at once.

Ok, I bought a gel flux, I also have rosin and tin. I am currently using a ZD-919 soldering station with a standard tip. I was already soldering some cables, I soldered the cables to the boards but the sockets were not, what temperature will not damage the board? Any guides found somewhere wise?

Well, it turned out that the problem is bigger, when I soldered 2 feet that were sticking, it turned out that 2 of 3 feet that were broken do not have solder pads. They just dropped out when the port was pulled out or something can be done about it? Scraping the plate will give something to get to the copper part?

Insert a picture, but there was not solder fields because they are data pints - not needed to charge the device. For charging you need pins 1 and 5.

Well, I took something quick to see there. If there is a need for better, I will do it in better lighting tomorrow https://photos.app.goo.gl/xhy2SofMQSWdJCrW6

Moderated By Dzimi:

Please put photos in accordance with the rules of the forum - it will greatly help in solving the problem.

Probably there were pins but they were not necessarily functional, they could only stabilize the socket. Wash the plate with flux alcohol and insert a better picture.

Ok, I've seen a little bit if there will be something and I have slightly started this CD. Better photos here https://photos.app.goo.gl/Le1ATy6KnaERMUPJA
As you can see, even if pins 1 and 5 are responsible for charging, there is no one ...

I see it black - I don't know if there were any elements next to the socket that you accidentally desoldered. The board is salvageable but for a good soldering iron operator.

My suggestion to buy a TP4056 Li-ion charging system (cost about PLN 5) and connect directly to the series of cells connected in series. The downside of this solution is that the charging time will be longer because this system gives 1A.

I watched this port again and I don't see anything come out except this port. But OK.

I will try again today and see what happens.

Do you have information about these ready enclosures for powerbanks with modules? They cost about PLN 30 for 8 batteries, so I have 6, and I would buy 2, I would have even bigger power banks. Only does it work reasonably well? Because sometimes it charges the phone for navigation and needs a lot of electricity. It shows that they are with 1 port 1a and one port 2a but can you believe it?

And I wonder how they land ...

When it comes to housings, the cheap ones often connect batteries in parallel (without a balancer) - that is, you should not add any other than those that worked in the current charger. Do they work well - it's hard to tell. Probably depends on the model. A very general question

And any recommended housing?


Or a charging system that will charge this power bank a little faster because now it has landed on the 1500ma charger over 14h

@ cross099 firstly, it would be good to wash the PCB (the place where the micro_USB connector was soldered), then take a picture of "this" place (not the whole power bank) and post according to the rules adopted here on the forum.
Maybe it will be easier for us to help you.
Regards
PS

Frog_Qmak wrote:

because already on the 1500mah charger landed over 14h

If you give some values, they should be given correctly and so for this power supply it is: 1500mA. In addition, this 20Ah powerbank should be charged with higher current (1C)

Buddy, here you have a charger system with a current of up to 3A.
https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic2685729.html

If you have a powerful USB charger with a current of 3 A or higher at a voltage of 5 V. The downside is that the system does not have a microUSB port, therefore it requires more combining. It also has an outlet for a protection thermistor, which you have glued to the cells.
If you have been charging with 1.5 A current so far, at 3 A the charging time should be reduced by half.