Closing Water Valve Issue: Winterizing Plot, Valve Fails to Close, Ad Hoc Solutions Needed

I have to close the water for the winter on the plot.
I have such a valve.



Unfortunately, water continues to flow after it is closed. How to deal with it ad hoc, can you tighten something?

If it's water, you won't do anything, wait until the water is turned off on the main valve and then replace it with a ball valve.

No tightening will work. The valve head has worn out (the gasket has broken) and needs to be replaced, but to do so, turn off the water on the connection.
With this pipe diameter, it is impossible to do it under pressure - I tried.
The visible nut is only used to replace / tighten the seals when the valve leaks.

Look on the plot, maybe you have a sump somewhere with the main valve.

So when they turn off the water, I have to unscrew the entire head and screw in a new one?
How do I get rid of the water in the gazebo from the tap, toilet and boiler pipes?

marcinsgdz wrote:

So when they turn off the water, I have to unscrew the entire head and screw in a new one?
How do I get rid of the water in the gazebo from the tap, toilet and boiler pipes?

If the head is in decent condition, you can replace the gasket but it's better to put the whole head on a new one if you don't want to fix it in a moment.
How can I get rid of the water? In the past, plumbers installed a tap on such a valve just so that the water could be drained from the installation. If someone makes an ill-considered installation, then there are such flowers.

marcinsgdz wrote:

How do I get rid of the water in the gazebo from the tap, toilet and boiler pipes?

"Blow out" with a compressor when you are "renovating" the valve.

Ask at the allotment garden management board and they should help in this matter, or explain when the main valve will be closed and when it will be possible to repair or modify it.

Buddy, the water supply is always a larger diameter and the distribution is smaller. The tap open patent may work well with a 1/2 inch diameter. As I wrote personally, I tried on a 1 1/2 inch pipe and it was not possible to screw it under pressure, despite open 2 taps. When I saw a stream of water after unscrewing the head, I already saw that it would not work, but I tried.

So do not advise solutions that can lead to flooding.
Someone advised to replace it with a ball valve, which in my opinion is more problematic because if it is damaged, you need more work to replace it (you have to play with screw fittings).

Another solution is to install a metal head (steam valve).


The author reminded me about the fact that I should replace the jumper in the house on the plot that has been passed for several years. Hope to do it before winter this year. I have the convenience that I have a well with a valve and I don't have to fly anywhere and ask to close the water.

E8600 wrote:

Someone advised to replace it with a ball valve, which in my opinion is more problematic because if it is damaged, you need more work to replace it (you have to play with screw fittings)

I wonder how this "mushroom" is wound onto the pipes ;-)

Point out the difference

101pawel wrote:

In which post did you read the diameter of this faulty valve?

Valves of this type are very rarely installed on small diameters.

101pawel wrote:

This is what a professional is writing to you, not a water and sewage installer, but also an installer.

All the more so, as a professional, you should not give such advice to the author of the topic.

101pawel wrote:

I opt for the latter, because if a professional changes under pressure, sometimes not only the head, but the element sealed with hemp, and it's only because he does not want to turn off the supply valve

It is not so easy to turn off the valve because in the present day of "pseudo" plumbers there are such installations that sometimes you have to turn off the water all over the street. So the plumbers are forced to replace under pressure what they can otherwise they would have to waste several hours locating the valve.

It is another thing to replace the valve without draining the water from the system, even in a high block (water is also pouring, but the pressure is much lower) and doing it under full pressure.

leonov wrote:

I wonder how this "mushroom" is wound onto the pipes

The main difference is that the ball valve starts to leak, you need to replace the entire valve, but the head leaks / leaks the head, you replace the head or the seals themselves - a flat wrench is enough to repair.

I have a big difference, I have a ball valve on my plot for five years and ... it works

101pawel wrote:

not a ball valve and not a valve, but a wedge gate valve, of course brass.

I will agree here. Formerly there were wedge valves resembling modern ball valves that could be pulled on the wedge when it started to leak and it was quiet.

leonov wrote:

I have had a ball valve on my plot for five years and ... it works

Five years is no achievement. Old installations / valves can be 40-50 years old and do not leak.
Balls are very sensitive to limescale and sand, if the Teflon is wiped, it is only a replacement.

Ask your local water supply, maybe they have a portable pipe freezer kit and for a six pack of golden liquor they will help you replace that valve.

Sublimating dry ice can be used to freeze the pipe.