[Solved] What is the reason for poor hot water pressure in all taps?

Hello
Please help me with the problem of weak hot water pressure.
I have been living in a new house for 9 years and for the past year I have noticed increasingly weak hot water pressure at every tap on both the ground and first floor.
The problem has now escalated because due to the weak pressure the water no longer runs hot but lukewarm.
I have a dwyfunkcyjny gas furnace, 300l tank, plastic pipes.
Before the storage tank I have a mesh diagonal filter Dn32, which I unscrewed but it was clean.
Circulation I have distributed water but it was not turned on at all, used since we live.
Thanks in advance for the hint.
Greetings

Wiśnia119 wrote:

I've lived in a new house for 9 years

I've been 18 years old for 17 years and have been driving a brand new car for 4 years
Photographs of the installation.
Probably you have a regulator at the storage tank.
They often jam after so many years.
The boiler with the storage tank is a single-function boiler.

Thank you for the quick response as this is generally the first time I use this service. I'm sending pictures, if I have further questions I'll be back home in about 3h. In one picture I think there is a reducer but he is on the tray leg and probably has no effect.

Has this filter been cleaned?
.

Yes, I just hoped silently that it could be responsible for everything but this morning I unscrewed it and it was clean - the mesh without the slightest dirt. In general, I'll add that at our place there is a problem with limescale that is, twice a year I unscrew the ends of the taps because they are stoned, but I hope that with the pipes it is ok because the neighbors also do not have additional filters against limescale and do not have such a problem.

Too bad there is no pressure gauge.

The tank itself should not restrict the flow.

There is a check valve.
Eventually something behind the wall. Somewhere further in front of this filter.

Thank you for taking help while the mesh filter I cleaned is about 0,5m away from the water meter that is right at the beginning of the whole installation. In my opinion there will be something wrong with this storage tank, maybe something is stoned but I don't know myself. Thanks for your help but I guess I will have to contact a plumber. Greetings

The reservoir is, in simple terms, an empty tank into which the water flows through a free passage of 1" and in a similar manner flows out.

Wiśnia119 wrote:

because of weak pressure, the water no longer flies hot but lukewarm.

Pressure has nothing to do with the temperature of the water.
Only the amount of water changes over time. Cold water definitely has more pressure in the taps?
Maybe the problem is complex and consists of two different faults.
One is related to temperature, the other to pressure.

The pressure is weak everywhere on the hot water to the point that taking a shower and turning on, for example, the tap in the other bathroom or kitchen practically stops flowing only drips. The water on the first floor in the shower is lukewarm because there is a faucet with a thermostat and I have read that with poor pressure this can happen. On the first floor in the bathroom the water is definitely warmer because there is a faucet without a thermostat. In general, until a year ago, the pressure was fine throughout the house running water in several taps at the same time well and the water itself was warmer - it is set at 60 degrees all the time.

piracik wrote:

Maybe the problem is complex and consists of two different faults.

And maybe the heat exchanger in the furnace soured?

The exchanger does not affect the pressure of DHW.

Fouling would cause overheating of the boiler and its clocking.

In my case, the cause was practically immobilized check valve (a lot of some white powder came out of the unscrewed hose...).

And I forgot after several years that I have strainers under each faucet with ceramic heads that also get clogged with limescale.

Strainer I also have but throughout the house in each tap the pressure on hot water is poor, on cold water good as always. That's why I posted a topic because sometimes the obvious thing someone will point out and help. I think to myself that there is something wrong in this tank because the five gas heater heats well, the pipes going in and out from the coil are hot.

Added after 4 [minutes]:

Sitka I also have but throughout the house in each tap the pressure on hot water is weak, on cold water good as ever. That's why I posted a topic because sometimes the obvious thing someone will point out and help. I for myself think there is something wrong with this storage tank because the five gas heater is heating well, the pipes going in and out from the coil are hot.

mmm777 wrote:

For me, the cause was a virtually immobilized check valve

I also wrote you about this valve. Might be worth checking out?

And where to look for this non-return valve, because the only non-return valve I can think of is right behind the meter, also known as an anti-siphoning valve, but if it were clogged, the pressure would be weak on both hot and cold water because as I wrote it is right behind the meter and in my cold water has good pressure. Greetings

The non-return valve should be on the COLD water going into the boiler, it is often a check/safety valve, but in your case I see the safety valve separately, so somewhere in there on the access to the boiler should be the non-return valve itself, type one and the other into google and you will see what it looks like, he could have overgrown ....

If this photo what you can see in the bottom of the filter was from a different angle you would see more there, it looks like the tee is 32 PP and goes down to the boiler, the non-return valve should be between this tee and the drain valve seen in the photo, only that further down is again the safety valve .... it looks like there is no non-return simply

You can still close the valve on the cold water before the boiler, then the valve at the top on the hot water, take some bowl, bucket, put it under the screw at the top on the hot water and let it go, let it go down what should go down and then tilt the tube and put your finger in, see if overgrown or not

You can even what to put later on this end, maybe you have what kind of wide hose, a piece of pipe insulation and then unscrew the cold water valve at the bottom and see what pressure you have

I typed in Google and there is no such valve. When it comes to unbolt it, I won't be able to tilt it enough to put my finger in because it's all rigid. There are no valves behind the wall, just the pipes themselves. I am sending pictures. In general, the only valve that is slanted mesh I unscrewed today, but it was clean. Greetings .

From the pictures it is PP 32 weldable according to me, you can easily bend the back, top, bottom, that the hose will hook up, but do not take today or Sunday not to make a mess, if I had it at home I would do as I wrote you, valve at the bottom closed, also at the top, let go and when it runs down what should run down unscrew completely and bend the pipe and see what is there, if there is nothing then with another person even take a hose or a bucket stand and let go of water and see how it flows

After the weekend I will do that and see. Thank you for the hint
Greetings.

I had the same problem with hot water pressure in one of the faucets. The strainers in the faucet were clean. Limescale from the pipes had nudged the cam - the eccentric of the faucet.

Hello
Today I was processing a similar topic- house acquired second hand from bob builder self sufficient.
But to the point. Similar problem with hot water. At my house welded pipes, but sometimes at the bends and transitions in the diameters instead of welded elbows, the guy put "galvanized elbows for water" France terribly overgrown. And I would add that more in the circuit behind the exchanger on hot water. Although on cold they were also overgrown with stone.
See if you don't have something "galvanized" on the way

Greetings.

Hello once again. I did as Flea w81 advised and unscrewed the top pipe and there was indeed scale behind the screw towards the storage tank. After cleaning a little I just unscrewed the water because I didn't have a big enough pipe, hose to unscrew on the inlet and see what the pressure is ( I will do so in a week) but I have a question for you how can I descale the pipes? Generally throughout the house I have PE pipes so no inserts of tin etc. After cleaning the screw, the water flies a little better despite the fact that there was a constriction on the screw but I still have the problem. Or maybe I will try once again to unscrew this screw, insert a makeshift elbow and pour some vinegar in the tank?
Thanks in advance for your hint.

but on the section that comes out of the boiler a large constriction? this spigot is I know 20 - 30 cm? At these 20cm will be most clogged if that is the reason, then the whole tank is already something else, you would have to scrape with something and then let some water at the bottom cold so that what you scrape let into the bowl and not into the system, the bottom is a thick pipe 32 what comes to the boiler and a short section because you could also unscrew and check, but you can not play and you would have to drain water, there the scale probably even larger.

At the top I had a scale of about 5mm in a section of 10mm, I scraped and the water flies a little warmer and a little better pressure. If you write that it can be the same on the inlet then I have to wait until summer although there is this slanted filter about 30cm from the inlet to the tank and he was clean. Just write me if there is a point to put this vinegar in the pipes or not. Thank you in advance for your answer

But you bent the pipe and looking as if to the center of the tank through the spigot along the entire length was a stone or a tip? If such an action as you say helped, well then the problem must be somewhere here, I would certainly not flood the tank with vinegar, or there pipes.

Yes, I peeked inside and the scale was in the direction of the tray, I scraped with a long screwdriver but it came off very hard, only when I popsilked with vinegar it let go. That's why I'm thinking to unscrew the m once again, fit some elbow and pour vinegar for a few hours it would let go more. Just not sure if the vinegar again might not damage something for me?
Greetings

Wiśnia119 wrote:

Yes, I peeked inside and the stone was towards the tray, I scraped with a long screwdriver but it came off very hard, only when I popsilked it with vinegar it let go.

Do you have any pictures?

I would look for the problem in the output and input, poke with a flathead screwdriver, if you poke at the top, then as I told you the water let someone push it out, and you catch it, if you already feel a small difference now well that must be it. I would not play with any vinegar, etc., such things mainly happen at the inputs and outputs of boilers, and most often as there is what elbow or nipple is galvanized at the input, output. I have cleaned such a thing more than once with such a brush for $ 8 in the store, there are different diameters, the best 22 for me https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&url=https%3A%...ved=0CAIQjRxqFwoTCKCF1rbJ7O4CFQAAAAAdAAAAABAF

Wiśnia119 wrote:

I have circulating water distributed but it hasn't been turned on at all, used since we've been living.

If it had been running, maybe it would have prevented this, and there would have been more comfort from using hot water as well.For the water work, I suggest turning off the electricity, because the outlets are too close!