FAQ
TL;DR: 48V across 9.6Ω draws 5A (~240W). "At 48V, the same 9.6 ohm heating element will only draw 5 amps … 240 W." [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #21681553]
Why it matters: DIYers ask how to run a 120VAC 1500W space heater from a 48VDC pack (e.g., golf cart) without wasting money or frying parts.
Quick Facts
- A 120VAC/1500W heater ≈ 9.6Ω and 12.5A at 120V. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #21681553]
- The same 9.6Ω element on 48VDC delivers ~240W at ~5A. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #21681553]
- To reach ~1500W at 48V you need ~1.536Ω total and ~31.25A wiring capacity. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #21681551]
- Four 12V/150W car heaters in series make a 48V/600W system. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #21681555]
- 48V→120VAC inverter works but adds cost and complexity for resistance heating. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #21681554]
Can I run a 120VAC 1500W space heater on 48VDC directly?
Yes, but power drops sharply. With the original ~9.6Ω element, 48V gives about 5A and ~240W heat, not 1500W. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #21681553]
How do I calculate current and heat at 48V?
Use I = V/R and P = V²/R. With R ≈ 9.6Ω, I ≈ 48/9.6 = 5A and P ≈ 48²/9.6 ≈ 240W. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #21681553]
Why isn’t the element’s resistance still 9.6Ω when cold?
Nichrome’s resistance changes with temperature. At 48V it runs cooler, so resistance falls slightly. Expect ~250–260W, not a big jump. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #21681559]
Do heating elements care about AC vs DC?
No. The element is resistive, so AC or DC doesn’t matter for heat. Replace or adapt any AC fan motor separately. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #21681549]
What about the built‑in fan motor on AC heaters?
AC induction fans won’t run on DC. Replace with a DC fan, or if it’s a brush motor, you may integrate it differently. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #21681551]
How can I get close to 1500W from 48V safely?
Reduce total resistance to ~1.536Ω. One method is splitting the original element into six equal parts and wiring them in parallel. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #21681551]
What wire and current should I plan for at 1500W/48V?
Budget ~31.25A continuous and use heavy-gauge wiring rated accordingly. Keep runs short and connections tight. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #21681553]
Is using an inverter to power the 120VAC heater from 48VDC smart?
It works, but it’s an expensive route for simple resistive heating. Direct 48V solutions are more efficient and cheaper. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #21681554]
What’s a practical 48V heater build without rewinding elements?
Use four identical 12V/150W car heaters in series for 48V/600W. Ensure they all switch on together. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #21681555]
How do I wire four 12V heaters in series on 48V?
- Verify all four units are identical and set to HEAT.
- Wire: 48V+ → H1 → H2 → H3 → H4 → 48V−.
- Use one master switch/relay so all power on together. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #21681555]
What failure should I watch for with series‑wired heaters?
If one unit is set to FAN‑only, most of the 48V appears across remaining heaters and can burn a fan out. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #21681564]
Is 600W enough heat for a golf cart?
Yes in many cases. A cart is small; users report 1500W may be excessive, while 600W often suffices. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #21681558]
How much current does a 48V/600W setup draw?
About 12.5A from the 48V pack. Use appropriate wiring and fusing to handle this load. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #21681564]
Will high heater power drain my traction batteries too fast?
Yes. Large loads can shorten range. Users warn 1500W may leave you walking if used continuously. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #21681557]
Can I run a 12V heater from one battery in a 48V pack?
It works electrically but unbalances the pack. Rotate which battery you tap or avoid this method. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #21681558]
Are IR space heaters better for this conversion?
Tapping IR elements is impractical. Without major rework, power at 48V still falls to ~240W on a 9.6Ω element. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #21681554]