Pulling Speaker Cable Behind Drywall: Guided Techniques for 2.5m Distance Hiding & Removal

Question

Hello, I recently finished the renovation of my room and now I have a wall of drywall and I would like to pull the cable from the speakers behind this wall because it looks hideous such a hanging cable. I have a question for you - do you have any way to put the cable at the top into the hole and...

waldekg · Answer

Hello. If there is free space between the holes, then there is something to be done. I think you will need an additional hole and a piece of fairly stiff wire and a lot of patience.

Venom007 · Answer

Yes of course there is a gap between the record and the wall, there is a lot of free space for the record.
With this hard wire, I tried to make an "L" and tried to hit the target hole with this "arm" but nothing came of it

Extra hole? what for?
Regards.

waldekg · Answer

Hello. An additional hole between these holes will reduce the distance and make it easier to aim with the wire.

zas · Answer

Hello,
I propose not to push the cable at once, but first pull some string, you can hang a small weight and release it at the top and try to pull it out at the bottom. Once the string is pulled, tie the cord to it and pull it back.
Regards

Venom007 · Answer

ZAS I tried as a thinner, I used bolts with nuts, but I have no way of directing this weight to the hole and there is no way to remove it because the holes are not in a straight line

Tommy82 · Answer

I propose such a patent to put a string with a weight on the top, swing it and try to catch a swinging weight, and exactly the string with a hook or a wire with a hook, it is probably called a crochet hook
even for sure

ivorpl · Answer

and you tried like this ... it will work out if the horizontal distance of hole 2 is not too large from the distance on the floor to the projection of hole 1 ... namely in hole number two we put a vacuum cleaner pipe and max suction ... we push into hole 1 a string - thin and quite strong, at the end of which we put a light load, e.g. a wine cork so that the vacuum cleaner can suck in ... maybe it will be as possible, at least approximately from hole 1 to hole 2 ...

Venom007 · Answer

ivorpl Thanks!! The job is done 30 minutes and 4 cables hidden Unfortunately, I drilled one more hole, but somehow the old ones will stick the vacuum cleaner pulled out a string and the cables were stretched. Now you can see the effect of a mini renovation I regret that I did not write this topic earlier In this department it did not help, therefore 5 points for colleagues and 10 for ivorpl so symbolically Regards

ivorpl · Answer

thanks venom ... I recommend myself for the future hehe :D ps. what else can household appliances be useful for?

Tommy82 · Answer

Also thank you and I admit that the idea of a vacuum cleaner is simply brilliant

tomeeh · Answer

Hi,

sorry for reheating the old chop, but I think there is no point in duplicating the topic.

Well, I have the same problem as my colleague described here, except that I also have wool behind plasterboard (Fermacell). I guess the idea with a vacuum cleaner will not work for me. Does anyone have any other proven "patent"? Maybe some facilitation in my situation is that both holes - the top and bottom - will lie vertically.

Zdzicho · Answer

A useful tool for feeding the pilot is an ordinary tape measure. Of course, its beginning should be properly prepared so that it does not get in the way, it is properly stiff and also flexible as needed.

tomeeh · Answer

Yes, that's also a good idea, also because the tape is metal. So after inserting it with the top, I could first use a metal / wire / high frequency field detector (I don't know what it's called exactly, but my buddy has it) to check if I am hitting the hole at the bottom. As I wrote, I have insulating wool inside, so the weight is definitely not enough for me to hit the bottom hole.

Anonymous · Answer

Hello,
I am surprised that no one on a professional portal has yet provided a method that has been used by installers for years. The condition for the application is that there is no permanent obstacle between the openings, such as a post or a reinforcing profile (although this can also be circumvented). The obstacle is not the mineral wool lying on the slab or in contact with it.
We attach a steel nut to a thin string, for example M8 (in the professional version it will be a neodymium magnet of the same size. Put the toto into the hole and lower it about 2 cm. Apply a neodymium magnet to the plate at the height where our nut or magnet hangs. We will find out whether the magnetic field has connected both elements by letting go string If so, guide the magnet along the plate to the outlet where the magnet will meet the nut.
Now, if the cable or cable is thick or stiff, replace the thin string with a more solid one, pulling it with the thinner one. Then it's downhill.
Regards

tomeeh · Answer

OKAY, then I will look for a large magnet. For me, the thickness is 2x12.5mm or 25mm. Hope the magnet won't let me down. For safety reasons, it would be appropriate to insert a protective tube?

Anonymous · Answer

Depends on how big this magnet is. I have one from the hard drive and it can handle a single board thickness, and not a double one. If the wire is double insulated, there is no need to do so. Do not forget about the proper short-circuit protection of this circuit, if it is not there, neither double insulation nor conduit will help. Regards

tomeeh · Answer

It does not have double insulation, but it is a speaker cable for the cinema. The current / short circuit protection is therefore already rather in the amplifier.

Pulling Speaker Cable Behind Drywall: Guided Techniques for 2.5m Distance Hiding & Removal

Post #1

Post #2

Post #3

Post #4

Post #5

Post #6

Post #7

Post #8

Post #9

Post #10

Post #11

Post #12

Post #13

Post #14

Post #15

Post #16

Post #17

Post #18

Didn't find an answer? Ask Artificial Intelligence

Topic summary