LC40 vs 090 Solder Wire—Lead Content, Health Risks, Melting Points, Symbol Table

Hello

I have a tin that says: LC40 and the other is: 090 and I would like to know something about the harmfulness of tin. I mean these lead admixtures because recently I heard that soldering with some old tin is very harmful to health. How is it actually with this harmfulness when it comes to such domestic use?
And does anyone have any tables with tin symbols (what do they actually mean) and melting point because the ones mentioned above are very difficult for me to melt 50W with a soldering iron? And what tin can you use "safely"?
I have read similar topics but I have not found a specific one.

Thus, most tin alloys have lead. As you know, it is a heavy metal, so it is very harmful to health. If you rarely solder and you will not inhale the fumes, as well as wash your hands after soldering, the harmfulness will probably drop to zero.
As for the tables, there are probably no such tables, each should contain information about the% lead content. There are also lead-free tin, but a soldering iron is needed.

And these types of tin what I have are what I mean these are: LC40 and the other is: 090 how much lead do they have? And why is it so hard to melt?
So I understand that there are no lists with the types of tin and these symbols?

Chemical composition :
http://www.cynel.com.pl/pl_index.php

As you can see in the question, reading can also be dangerous. Each treatment is the administration of specific poisons to the body and you heal yourself. Where are your concerns when you solder 6 minutes a week. Greater threat from exhaust fumes and electromagnetic field. I know that the information is at fault, but these are the journalistic methods that there must be a sensation. Summing up, the risk applies to people who are constantly in rooms where soldering is carried out. And what about the properties of the solder, start soldering and you will see immediately.

elektrit wrote:

Listen-solder with this tin and do not bother yourself with nonsense about the harmfulness.
All.

This is first

Secondly:
If tinol crumbles or breaks when bent one, two or three times, throw it into the bin (store tinol in airtight packages)

Third, never solder with natural air (draft)
Try not to inhale the fumes and have even a makeshift extractor located 15 to 30 cm from the soldered point (this depends on the speed of the suction fan)

Fourth, a good soldering iron and a well-set temperature (appropriate tip thickness and appropriate temperature, taking into account the thickness of the copper on the laminate)

All this influences the formation of the so-called cold solder and thus the durability, lifetime, conductivity and reliability of electrical connections.

These are just a few tips for proper soldering.

The tin for electronics is LC60, and the LC40 is probably for soldering gutters.

Many thanks for this information. I already know that it is nothing particularly dangerous.
Now I can boldly confirm the opinion of Mczapski that it is only "sensation-seeking".

I would like to know one thing for how many hours of such "home" soldering, say a day, can be afforded?

Does anyone know anything else to avoid in electronics and similar fields? Maybe it will be useful in some lectures etc.

bonanza wrote:

The tin for electronics is LC60, and the LC40 is probably for soldering gutters.

You're right.

For soldering electronic components, a tin-lead LC60 and LC63 alloy is used, with a high degree of purity, the melting points of which are within the range of 180 ... 190 degrees C

Hello!
Indeed, this tin is not very suitable for electronics, see its specification here:
http://www.cynlut.eu/?d=2&p=17

The best binder for electronics is February LC60,
and now the industry uses silver solder due to ISO standards, but requires slightly higher melting points.

In my company (production of components for passenger cars) tin with silver admixed with lead has been used for 2 years and tin with lead has been withdrawn.

In home use, you can still use it until you run out of stock, because one day it will probably not be on the market.

greetings

szynszyl505 wrote:

I would like to know one thing for how many hours of such "home" soldering, say a day, can be afforded?

Service technicians work all day with a soldering iron in their hand. Somehow I have not heard that any of them, after several dozen years of work, would complain.

No exaggeration with this exhaust soldering at home (coll. Zaza). Nobody uses it, because it makes no sense (and I've never seen a tinol break, which was sometimes left in the open air for several years). The main fumes that are released during soldering come from rosin. Metals at this temperature practically do not evaporate and it is nonsense to talk about "lead fumes" in which electronics are immersed during soldering. In the past, pure lead was widely used. Wiring pipes were wrapped in a lead sheet, as a child I often played with lead (casting lead soldiers, playing "zośka", etc.) and somehow I was fine. If necessary, I also soaked my fingers in gasoline, acetone, iron chloride and other highly harmful substances and also did not notice any negative effects. Their harmfulness manifests itself only in constant contact with them and in poisoning the environment with large amounts of waste containing these substances. The act on the non-use of lead binders was passed out of concern for the natural environment, not because of the high mortality rate among amateur electronics.
LC60 (60% tin content) is best for brazing because it is a eutectic alloy, i.e. one that changes from liquid to solid very quickly and at a constant temperature, the lowest of any other alloy composition. For example, LC40, 30, etc. binders have a higher melting point than LC60, and when melting and solidifying, they first go through a "pasty" state and then melt or solidify completely. When the soldered elements move in a pasty state, defective, delaminated and dull solder is formed after solidification.

kw48 I consider your statement appropriate and I support it in its entirety, because it explains a lot and "obscures" the myths circulating among novice electronics about the harmfulness of fumes.

I do not deny that they are harmful to health, but one would have to stay in this environment for a very long time.
This applies in particular to workers on assembly lines, where they are in contact with vapors for eight or ten hours of work - assuming, of course, theoretically, that the lifts do their job.

As for service technicians - as much time as the service technician spends soldering, it is certainly less harmful than the polluted air that surrounds us inhaled.

they don't complain because they use fume extractors ...

ogryz wrote:

szynszyl505 wrote:

I would like to know one thing for how many hours of such "home" soldering, say a day, can be afforded?

Service technicians work all day with a soldering iron in their hand. Somehow I have not heard that any of them, after several dozen years of work, would complain.

Added after 3 [minutes]:

well, I do not agree with my friend .... readily available lead-free solder can be bought, for example, here:

elektrit wrote:

kw48 wrote:

LC60 binder (with a tin content of 60%).

It should be noted that it is difficult to buy solder with a different composition in electronics stores.
This "other" is used by central heating installers (copper).

Moderated By rubens:

The last time I remind you - another link to Renex and there will be a basket and then a warning. My experience is also the same as that of ELEKTRITA. The fact that it is in Renex does not mean that it is automatically in every other place. Read the content of the posts carefully.

For about 10 years I have been using tin HOZAN Sn 0% (H-42-3717) is a Japanese tin which soldered very well to me. Unfortunately, I cannot find the tin from this manufacturer and I have already found some tin (also 60%), which is hard to solder with. What else can you recommend, what do you use?

Moderated By arnoldziq:

My colleague thinks that the author of the topic waited 6 years for an "enlightened response" from a colleague?
3.1.19. It is forbidden to publish entries in archival discussions.

kosmatek wrote:

For about 10 years I used tin HOZAN Sn 0% (H-42-3717)

Tin 0% tin, surely it will be hard to solder.

Old topic, but if someone else read it- ONLY TIN CYNEL 1 MM. You can solder 2MM, but soldering small parts is not so comfortable. Plain lead tin Cynel

cynel is no longer a tragedy

@djbodzio buy Cynela Sn60Pb40 but with the note "professional"
V

The most common type of solder used for electronics and electrical work is a tin-lead alloy, typically with a ratio of 60% tin to 40% lead (60/40). However, due to environmental concerns, lead-free solders are becoming more popular, often made of tin, silver, and copper. Look for solder labeled specifically for electronics or electrical work.