Blown ETIMAT 10 B16 Fuse: Kitchen Fitters, Saws, & Electrical System Short Circuit Inquiry

I am asking for advice.
In the new apartment I just had kitchen fitters, they turned on some saws, etc. The next day I noticed that there was no electricity in the sockets in the rooms. I looked in the fuse box and of course one of them (the one from the socket) was OFF. Unfortunately, as if I fell down, I lift the lever up to ON, but the lever does not put any resistance (which is noticeable when switching the levers in the other fuses) and does not turn on the fuse - i.e. the color does not change from green to red in the window, and the lever falls loosely to bottom.

Does the described symptom mean that the fuse must be replaced, or the fuse is OK, but there is a short circuit in the electrical system?
I would like to add that there are currently no devices connected to the sockets in the rooms.

Designation of the ETIMAT 10 B16 fuse, details in the attached photo:

The circuit breaker itself (ETIMAT B16) is damaged and must be replaced. Probably it has been mechanically damaged, and it is possible that the assemblers caused a short circuit in the installation - as a result of which the switch was damaged. It is better to have it replaced by an electrician, as there may be other effects of a short-circuit or frequently repeated overload caused by devices (saws) that they had and which require different protection (eg C16).

Ps. It should be replaced with a security device with the same markings.

S fuse with the same parameters to be replaced. Relatively high power was consumed from the socket connected to this Esa for a long time, which resulted in damage to the fuse. This fuse also has a thermal protection in its housing and with high power consumption, but not exceeding the fuse value, the thermic heats up and one of the plastic parts is deformed.

Hello. Most likely the security is kicked, ETI is one of the worse companies, you can try to connect the outflow to another security and check if everything is ok. If it is gut, replace "esa" and after the problem. Greetings.

Thank you for your suggestions.
I will buy this switch, I hope that the replacement is not complicated and I can do it without the help of an electrician ...

And don't forget to turn off the voltage in the meter box in the corridor. Such a replacement is done without voltage in the fuse board.

1- Sunday is not working
2- We work after switching off the voltage (main switch).
3- If all protections are connected "from below" with a connecting strip - you must use the same type of protection. If they are combined in a different way, you can apply a security from another (better) company

wojchec wrote:

Thank you for your suggestions.
I will buy this switch, I hope that the replacement is not complicated and I can do it without the help of an electrician ...

There is another possibility: if there is a short circuit in the installation, we have the impression that the switch cannot be turned on, although it is functional. Like the differential, it cannot be attached if we jumper PE and N.
It should be checked if the electricians made a mistake.

Hello,
I agree with the predecessor about the possibility of a short circuit and thus the inability to turn on the fuse. If you can feel a slight resistance at the very beginning, similar to an efficient circuit on another fuse, and during the upward movement, a sudden "loosening" of the "S" lever may be a short circuit in the system and the fuse's lever will fall down limp. I suggest to be sure disconnect the "top" outlet of the fuse and then try to turn on the protection. If it can be turned on, it would rather indicate a short circuit in this circuit. Of course, the work should be carried out after turning off the power. The socket used by previous specialists could also be damaged. Best regards and I wish you low costs and good luck in the diagnosis of the fault.

retrofood
Read carefully what the author of the topic wrote:

Quote:

Unfortunately, as if I fell, I lift the lever up to ON, but the lever does not put any resistance (which is felt when switching the levers in other fuses) and does not turn on the fuse

If there was a short circuit when switching on, he would definitely feel it

Łukasz-O wrote:

retrofood
Read carefully what the author of the topic wrote:

Quote:

Unfortunately, as if I fell, I lift the lever up to ON, but the lever does not put any resistance (which is felt when switching the levers in other fuses) and does not turn on the fuse

If there was a short circuit when switching on, he would definitely feel it

Electrician - yes, he will probably feel, and even should feel difference, but for the uninitiated it is often village fish.

If we had a case with an RCD (without an overcurrent module) that cannot be connected, I agree that the difference between switching on a mechanically damaged one and switching on, where the circuit is damaged but the RCD is functional, will be small. If there is a short circuit in the installation and the circuit breaker (S) turns off, when we turn on such a circuit, even a layman will feel it - even more so if the circuit breaker is still functional ...
Nevertheless, anything is possible, so I wrote:

Quote:

It is better to have it replaced by an electrician, as there may be other effects of an induced short circuit or frequently repeated overload

It is best to disconnect the circuit that protects the switch and then lift its lever up. If it does not turn on, the switch must be replaced.

In fact, all the necessary information has already been dropped. The most important piece of advice here is:

Quote:

It is better to have it replaced by an electrician, as there may be other effects of an induced short circuit or frequently repeated overload

I close the topic. If necessary and at the justified request of the author - I will open it back.