Strange Humming Noise from Fuse Box in Old Building: B10 & B16 Fuses, Oven & Heater Issues

Hello,
Recently, I have noticed a strange noise coming from the fuse box. I would like to add that nothing has been changed for a long time and nothing like this has happened before.
We live in an old building, so for sure the electrical installation is very poorly done and I know it. We did not do this installation ourselves.
In the current situation (state of the epidemic), I do not want to call an electrician without a serious problem, so maybe I will be able to do something myself (e.g. just replace one of the fuses)

The case is as follows:
I have seven separate fuses (circuits)
1 - Fuse B10 - Lights and bell
2 - Fuse B10 - Sockets
3 - Fuse B10 - Sockets
4 - Fuse B16 - Oven, hood, dishwasher
5 - Fuse B10 - Refrigerator
6 - Fuse B10 - Sockets in the bathroom (including the connected Washing machine)
7 - Fuse B10 - bathroom lights
G - Main fuse that cuts off the current in all of the above - C16

When I turn on the oven, while the heater is on, you can hear such a strange "buzzing / humming" from the box, when I turn on the dishwasher at the same time, the humming noise becomes louder. At first I thought that the problem was in the fuse on circuit No. 4, but yesterday I noticed that when the washing machine itself is working, I also hear a soft humming noise as long as the heater is working (the washing machine is on circuit No. 6).
I think the problem is somewhere in this main fuse (wrongly selected, burns out?)

I will be able to solve it myself or is an electrician's visit necessary?

Thanks in advance for your help

Hello.
If this phenomenon occurs when loading different circuits, it would indicate G or C16.
The circuit breaker has 2 types of tripping - overload (thermal) and short-circuit (electromagnetic).
Under heavy loads, the anchor may vibrate in the instantaneous trip circuit.
Turning on the oven and dishwasher is a load of more than 5 kW, so
the consumed current is 22 A, which already overloads the main protection circuit.

Phate25 wrote:

I will be able to solve it myself or is an electrician's visit necessary?

I suggest an electrician. Alternatively, you can remove the grille and look for burns, melted insulation. Upload a photo.

From time to time, miniature circuit breakers hum under load. This is not something to worry about, everything is fine.
The only thing you can attach to is:

Phate25 wrote:

G - Main fuse that cuts off the current in all of the above - C16

It is not something that poses any threat to life (except for a lump in the dark) or property, but why limit yourself. Overcurrent switches have this to themselves that if there is a short circuit in the installation, they all turn off in turn, i.e. one of the lighting and the C16 one. Then there is darkness throughout the apartment.
Perhaps the meter cable is thin and that's why someone used something like that.
What is the pre-meter protection and what is the diameter of the cable from the meter. Perhaps this apparatus can be replaced with a switch disconnector.

Ktoś_tam wrote:

The overcurrent switches have this feature that when there is a short circuit in the installation, they all turn off in turn, i.e. one of the lighting and the C16 one. Then there is darkness throughout the apartment.

That's it - with this arrangement there is no selection. If the fault loop impedance is 1 ? (and usually it is less), the fault current will be 230 A.
On the other hand, the instantaneous tripping currents of individual WSs are as follows:
B10 -> 30-50 A.
B16 -> 48-80 A.
C16 -> 80-160 A.
So there will always be 1-7 and the main one.

The installation is so combined from what I know. I still have an old aluminum installation in front of the "G" fuse. The fuse in the corridor in front of the apartment, where the meter still has a 25A fuse

Just when I open the fuse box, I don't see any sparking or a melted cable. Unless I have to open and download something even deeper.

PS
And yes, I know that it is installed upside down - apparently it was too much of a complication (due to the old aluminum installation) with connecting it normally.

Phate25 wrote:

apparently it was too much of a complication (due to the old aluminum installation) with connecting it normally.

And why tell electricians such fairy tales? "Too much complication" ... No! It was an ordinary bungling and laziness of the performer (because he cannot be called an electrician). No complications.
And a total lack of knowledge, even the basic one.

Of course, I completely agree with you. I am not an electrician and at first glance I can see that this box is not very professional.
At the moment, when there is a general problem with access to services and service providers, I would like to simply solve the problem so that it does not get worse.

So you bet on the problem with the main fuse "G"? Replace it with a new one? The same, i.e. C16 or another?

Phate25 wrote:

So you bet on the problem with the main fuse "G"? Replace it with a new one? The same, i.e. C16 or another?

I visit an electrician and inspect the installation to simply inventory its condition and identify problems to be solved. Because humming and various sounds are only one symptom of the problem, not the problem itself. You will definitely not solve it by replacing the main security. It's time to get used to this thought.

If you entered the region where you are from, maybe even one of the writers could undertake such an assessment.

We live in Poznań

For now, it remains to tighten all the clamps, because you won't do any more yourself. For safety, this should be done with an insulated screwdriver. And wait for better times.

The design of the circuit breaker looks like this:

where:

1 Drive lever
2 Castle
3 Fixed contact and moving contact
4 Connection terminals
5 Thermobimetallic release (overload)
6 Adjustment screw
7 Release, electromagnetic (short-circuit)
8 Extinguishing chamber (to extinguish an electric arc)

When placed "upside down", you increase the chance of buzzing when heavily loaded due to the opposite effect of gravity on the moving part of the electromagnetic trigger.
Besides, as I wrote before, this switch can be significantly overloaded in your case.
Compare the effect with this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=3&v=K9aMlBzZ0VM&feature=emb_logo " target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener ugc" class="postlink inline" title="" > https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=3&v=K9aMlBzZ0VM&feature=emb_logo

The best solution would be to replace C16 with an isolating switch, which was written by a colleague Someone_tam

The sound from this movie is similar (although it is known that it is not the same because in my case it is a bit more muffled)
I am a bit puzzled by what you write about the overload of the switch - I can also hear this sound (although quieter than when the stove itself works) how the washing machine itself works. Is the washing machine itself overloading my system?

I'm gonna try to tighten the screws tonight with these insulated screwdrivers.
Could you give me a specific model of the switch disconnector that should be installed for my installation?

Phate25 wrote:

Is the washing machine itself overloading my system?

When everything is normal, it doesn't overload. But if something is falling apart ...
I once met with an accident that inserting a plug from an ordinary radio receiver into the socket caused the overcurrent protection B 16A to be activated. It does not mean that the radio took more, the fuse was just blown so that it reacted to a gust of wind.

Phate25 wrote:

Could you give me a specific model of the switch disconnector that should be installed for my installation?

We could, but for what? It has to be replaced by an electrician, not you. For this you need to either unseal the pre-meter protection or make it live. So as you can see, this job is probably not for you. The electrician will know what to do and what to buy. These property cameras do not cost themselves, so even if they add a double as much margin, you will not get poor, or at least the electricity will not kill you.
What you need to buy exactly and do it is best to see it live, I will not do it remotely.

As for the type of disconnector, there is plenty of it: Link
I removed the redundant. / zbich70 /
It would be good with a fuse: Link
but it is 1.5 modules wide so it may be running out of space.