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Effective Methods for Dissolving Aged Super Glue from Delicate Car Button Plastics

rejestr123 74205 26
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Treść została przetłumaczona polish » english Zobacz oryginalną wersję tematu
  • #1 8286252
    rejestr123
    Level 10  
    Due to stupidity, I glued the plastics with Super Glue under the buttons in the car, which allow you to press ...
    These plastics are small, delicate and stuck together for a long time.
    Can you tell me what can dissolve this glue after this time.
    Need something really strong, effective?
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  • #2 8286289
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • #3 8286307
    vorlog
    Level 40  
    Google it
    "gel glue remover Super Glue Remover"
    V.
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  • #4 8286325
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • #5 8286332
    vorlog
    Level 40  
    My post was directed to the author of the thread.
    Google provides a lot of results, not only for the election.
    V.
  • #8 8286358
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • #9 8286361
    vorlog
    Level 40  
    There was also a Polish "equivalent" (with Pudzian on the packaging), probably produced by Gustpol, but it disappeared - probably patent cases ;)
    V.
    EDIT: Someone has described some ways to get super glut, out of curiosity I will check myself by the way
    http://www.howtocleanstuff.net/clothing-and-f...-to-remove-super-glue-from-plastic-and-vinyl/ " target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener ugc" class="postlink inline" title="" > http://www.howtocleanstuff.net/clothing-and-f...-to-remove-super-glue-from-plastic-and-vinyl/
  • #10 8286385
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • #11 8286402
    vorlog
    Level 40  
    I am looking for and I cannot find any information about a certain agent that I had in my paws a few years ago - I cannot recall the name, even of the company (some Belgian one) - it was a spray agent, a 100 ml container with a tube, an incredibly intense liquid orange smell, intended for removing all adhesives, stickers, etc., certified for the chemical and food industry - I got it as a plastic bag from a sales representative who provided me with various specifics for food production. Unfortunately, when I changed my job, I left the entire inventory at my colleagues' disposal, and I really feel sorry for this specificity ... It did not touch the plastics, did not stain, after drying nothing stank. He couldn't remove some adhesives / varnishes that blend into the surfaces to be bonded, but the surface ones he cleaned quite nicely. Superglut was removed without any problem. When sprayed, it formed a pile of foam which had to be left undisturbed for some time.
    Maybe someone had contact with this agent?
    He had an orange stylized as a sun on the sticker.
    The fact that apparently (according to the supplier) was very expensive.
    V.
  • #12 8286410
    pioart
    Level 38  
    "Vorlog" means organoleptically checked and washes / dissolves / adhesives on cyanides. Because that's what I understood. If so, describe how you did it, because, despite my experiments with various means of this kind, I did not manage to separate the glued elements / I do not use adhesives for everything only with a narrow application /
    These removers are good for advertising, but despite the name, they won't dissolve cyanide-based adhesives. . You will physically separate the elements faster and less destructively / less probability of the complete destruction of the element /. Besides, if there are electrical elements under the buttons, they will not work for a long time. The glue gasps for quite a long time and causes havoc. The airstrike and white traces remain. The old adage "if something goes wrong, it sucks"
    greetings
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  • #13 8286413
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • #14 8286417
    vorlog
    Level 40  
    This is not about dissolving, something like this will definitely fail - the agent that I described above (poorly because it is bad ...) caused the peeling of adhesives / varnishes - I tested it on various nasty, and on superglue in the case of cleaning the cockpit board in the boss's Mercedes - he splashed it while sticking the holder to the (I think) GPS.
    The MB cockpit is made of a soft, foam-like material (surface), he was fine, the glue was easy to remove.
    I also cleaned the residues from a similar but better so-called Second glue (Technicoll) from the plexiglass surface (helmet glass) - also removed nicely without damaging the surface.
    I saw this Loctite product from the link above from a friend, but I have not personally tested it.
  • #15 8286431
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • #16 8286726
    rejestr123
    Level 10  
    Thanks for the answers at the beginning, I found the one with Pudzian: Gel glue remover and see if it helps, I will try the described method with water and soap beforehand. Something should help.
  • #17 8286786
    pioart
    Level 38  
    vorlog wrote:
    and in the case of cleaning the cockpit board in a Mercedes, the boss - splashed it while sticking the handle to the (probably) GPS.
    The MB cockpit is made of a soft, foam-like material (surface), he is fine, the glue can be removed....
    ... I also cleaned the remains of a similar but better so-called Second glue (Technicoll) from the plexiglass surface (helmet glass) - also removed nicely without damaging the surface. .

    Well, as it has already been said more or less emphatically, the glue must dissolve or form an adhesive layer in order to stick to it / so in peasantry /.
    As for the cleaning of the board, it is not surprising that it came off, although I suspect the trace remained. You were lucky that the boss had a Mercedes and not Seat, because you would only have a problem / quality /.
    As for the quick helmet, you would probably do the trick with hand cream or the WD40 beloved by pseudo-mechanics.
    greetings
  • #18 8287604
    vorlog
    Level 40  
    Hmm ... I happen to have a Mercedes too (of course, not like my ex-boss :P ), his art does not require any patches, only soap and water every now and then. It's not Golf ... (I also have :D ).
    There was no trace left on the cockpit boss, and as far as I know, the guy was degreasing the gluing place anyway.
    As for Technicol, I don't really share my colleague's contemptuous opinion above, I know what he can do, how to use it properly, no superglut can be compared to him. I glued it to the cooling system hoses, once even to the V-belt (well, emergency :) ).
    Adhesive glue sticks when its layer is sufficiently thin and the contact surface is smooth. Poured "loose" does not hold much, also its water absorption is quite low, and the fusion into the glued surface depends on its material.
    V.
  • #19 8288303
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • #20 8288347
    KGS
    Level 23  
    Hello!
    With a certain amount of constipation, I use a mixture of these alcohols. In the absence of them, I buy an acetone-free nail polish remover - (it has some additive-pink color and costs about PLN 5 per bulb. However, you can always buy reagents in bulk and make it yourself.

    iso-butyl C4H9OH

    n-butyl C4H9OH

    sec-butyl C4H9OH

    tert-butyl C4H9OH

    http://www.chemik.aip.pl/ - there are prices
    Regards! :D
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  • #21 8288629
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • #22 8289000
    KGS
    Level 23  
    Good luck! Acetone-free removers are based on alcohols with the addition of amyl acetate. You should buy such a remover without vitamins and unnecessary oils. I manage to buy such a remover even in the village where I live. It must contain butyl alcohol !!.
    Regards with technical acetone! It will also dissolve thermoplastic materials from which car dashboards are made.
    "Nitro" solvents also differ in composition (RC-01, RC02.Ofo or varnish). Before you recommend acetone for precise works, read at least Wikipedia. Regards!
  • #23 8289017
    wojtek60
    Level 23  
    Graupner 5819. Ask at model stores. It costs about 12 PLN (3 EUR ;)
    Other resources are also available .. search under .. ,, debonder ,,
  • #24 8289040
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • #25 8289533
    pioart
    Level 38  
    "Owik" -u do not stress, this topic has long since passed away like asphalt on the highway not far away from my habitat. You can write about aldehydes and the like, nobody remembers that the best cleaner was ether and TRI, not to mention nitro or Toluene / the last one is very cool if you know what and how /
    The whole problem is that when we rely mostly on virtues, we ignore ailments and stupidity. The advantage is the ubiquitous Internet, and stupidity is quoting the opinions of people who heard something. not supported by facts. I can personally go down to the car / mercedes / and rub the whole board with acetone and nothing will happen to her, except that I will wash off the old dust and the poster that someone has pissed in the past.
    It is known that all nonreactive / non-reactive / adhesive measures are generally shit-worthy. This is not why companies are racing to create more and more annoying Alu and plastic alloys. It is done so that it cannot be repaired / glued / They urged into our heads stories about the miraculous effect of superglue and similar, and to this day they cannot cope with the glue on postage stamps, not mentioning the katar.
    greetings
  • #26 8289627
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • #27 8290188
    zdzisek11
    Level 14  
    potassium permanganate - available at the pharmacy

Topic summary

The discussion revolves around effective methods for dissolving aged super glue from delicate car button plastics. Various suggestions include using specific glue removers, such as gel glue remover and debonders, which are designed to break down adhesives without damaging plastics. Users caution against using acetone and nitro solvents, as they can harm plastic surfaces. Alternatives like soap and water, as well as specialized adhesive removers, are recommended. Some participants share personal experiences with different products, emphasizing the importance of careful application to avoid damaging the car's interior. The conversation also touches on the effectiveness of various chemical agents and the need for precision in their use.
Summary generated by the language model.
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