Vaillant 242 / 3-3m Gas Oven: Optimal Temperature Settings for 52m2 Apartment with 5 Heaters

Set the heating to max. the controller in the corridor will maintain a room temperature of 21 degrees C. Set the domestic water heater to 55 degrees C.

The temperature you set on the controller (in the corridor) night -19 degrees (or less if it's too hot) day-21 degrees (but during those hours when you are at home about 0.5 hours in advance), when no one is there at home you can go down 15-17st. but you have to train yourself

Night set 18 degrees as you are at home 21st. when you are not at home 15-16st. you will save on it.

I have 100 m2 to heat, an old tenement house, old windows. I consume up to 10 m3 of gas a day. Daytime temperature 20 * C (6-9, 13-23) and night temperature 18 * C (23-6, 9-13).

Even 10m of gas?

I have a single-family house and in winter I use 20m a day because it is not insulated and the roof is bare, tiles in the attic. It also heats 100m.

And as for the night / day temperature settings, there is no saving. Maybe in a modern, well-designed and super-insulated building with a weather-controlled stove, it makes sense, but in most cases it is not, I checked when lowering the temperature for the night and during the absence. It uses more gas to cool it back down to those 21 degrees than it's worth. I was set at 18.5 / 20. He was using more gas than 20 non-stop.

As for the temperature on the stove, set the lowest that can heat the room with unscrewed radiators to the temperature set on the thermostat. The colder it gets as winter approaches, the more you will have to turn it up. But in this way the stove will run at low speed for a long time, instead of at very high speed for a short time. Working at a lower temperature for a long time, it will consume less gas. Absolutely do not set the temperature on the stove to max. if the thermostat works in the system, turn it on / off. If it is a Vaillant controller and has a continuous mode, the temperature on the furnace may be higher.

Greetings

Added after 40 [minutes]:

Maybe start with what driver supports this furnace. Is it a Vaillant driver? Is some Euroster or other plain on / off?

thank you for your speech Zg3
Do you think that 10 m3 is a lot for the conditions I described? Please reply, but first I will give some information about the furnace.
Vaillant VUW 240-3 oven, power 9.1-24kW
8 heaters size 500mm / 1200mm
1 1000W in the bathroom
thermal regulators on each radiator (all set to 5)
auraton 2005 controller


I have been using the stove since the winter of 2007, every year it is inspected (cleaned) by a good professional.
Until now, I had the controller setting about 20 * C in the morning for 3 hours in the afternoon until 23, then the night tariff was about 18 * C, for the last 2 weeks the average gas consumption was 6.5 m3 / day.

In the previous seasons, in winter, consumption was about 10 m3 per day at similar temperature settings.
As for the "thermostat" on the stove:
1) water (kitchen, bathroom) 1/3 max approx. 40-45 * C
2) CO about 1/2 max temp about 50C

How do you advise to set the temperature (range on thermostats) on the stove and what temperature on the auraton controller with room temperature control?
Is the daytime mode (i.e. 20 * C 24 hours a day) really the most economical, in the conditions of an old brick tenement house, 90% of the area of the apartment is outside the tenement house, cold floor and old window joinery?

PS I'm sorry for the chaos in the information, but I count on your help and thank you)

Check for yourself what is more economical. You can alternately use the same setting all day one day for a week or two, and alternately use the comfort / economy temp at some time on the second. Write down how much gas went and write down temp outside. a few days will give you an overview.

Out of curiosity, you can also set this Auraton to be turned on all the time, i.e. set a much higher temperature, some 24-25 and turn on the stove with the water temperature so that the temperature on the Auraton drops to the one you had previously set and leave it there and see how much This way the gas goes down by day.

I have a friend who adjusts the temperature on the stove only and threw the temostat completely because he claims that he uses less gas so much, and that's what weather is for.

If there are frosts outside and you have uninsulated walls and old windows and you use 10m per 100m of surface, it is probably not much, but the assessment depends on a much larger number of factors.

greet

Hello. I would like to connect to the above thread. I have a similar problem with adjusting the gas stove. I recently replaced the gas stove with a single-function Vaillant AtmoTec Pro 24 kW open combustion chamber. Earlier (in an old mechanical gas furnace) in severe winter I had a maximum of 700 m3 of combustion in January, and now (at night temperatures from -5 to 0 degrees Celsius) I have almost 18 m3 of gas consumption per day. The previous stove had a power of about 29 kW, while the new one, after installation, has a nominal heat output reduced to 12 KW (by the installer). I heat an uninsulated house in the old building with an area of about 120 m2 (with a 140 m2 garage), sealed plastic joinery, the room controller is Auratron 2005. I was wondering what would be better, whether a higher temperature on the stove and less frequent switching on of the stove (and the electric pump). ), or just the minimum temperature on the stove needed to obtain a sufficient temperature in the rooms (now I have 18.5 at night, around 20.0 during the day) for a long time. It is also possible to increase the power of the furnace itself. And here I have a dilemma, what will I achieve by increasing the nominal thermal power?
First, I will try to change the operating range settings to make them identical during the day and night (program 4 on the Auratron).
Regards. David Bittner.

Hello, I have 20 for the day and 19.5 for the night (previously I had a greater difference), the average consumption from the last 30m days is 6.26 m3. It's not a lot for 5 people (because in addition to CO, I use gas for DHW and for cooking ) only a shower instead of a bathtub. Fortunately, the weather pampers us for now, and next week it should be up to 13 * C. I would suggest setting a low temperature on the stove in a situation of constant daily temperature (e.g. 20 * C) on the room controller. The whole apartment (furniture, walls) is a kind of battery, it is better to heat it up once and keep the temperature. Of course, in the event of a longer absence (from several days), you can think about lowering the temperature to, for example, 10 * C. Then it can save you money.

Hello and thank you for your answer. I began to wonder how my stove actually works. The room controller constantly signals the need to heat up the rooms (it has a high room temperature set for the duration of the tests, which the room temperature sensor cannot reach, given the set operating parameters of the stove), and the stove switches on and off with a certain time interval. According to the service manual, the stove in heating mode undergoes a certain cycle: first, the stove turns on the internal pump for some time (the aisle is sometimes S2), then the ignition process takes place, then the burner works (I think it will be as long as it reaches the required set temperature) of water at the outlet, although the display at the stove always shows about 3-4 degrees more - when the burner ends, compared to the temperature set with the knob on the stove), then the pump overrun continues (I suppose the pump is working with the burner off), and ends cycle blocking the burner after finishing heating operation (sometimes named S8). As the stove cannot heat up the house to the temperature set on the room controller, I skip the heat demand signal checking phase.
Until now, I had quite long breaks between the burner starts, the temperature dropped by about 0.5-1.0 degrees Celsius on the sensor of the room controller (which was perfectly felt at home, even without it) and then the stove turned on by itself. In the settings you can change, among others times S2 and S8. I thought that if the S8 time in particular is shorter (the range in the settings from 2 to 60 minutes), the temperature will not drop so much, the stove will turn on more often, but for shorter moments (temperature drops will not be so drastic), I will not I could feel the temperature fluctuations in the house and maybe I would even be able to reduce the temperature directly on the stove. So far, I have not changed the temperature on the stove (I have 45 degrees) and the power of the stove (I have 16 KW), but I reduced the S8 time from 20 to 10 minutes, I will see what will come of it. I am aware that the S8 time directly depends on the set supply temperature, so I take everything indicatively, in any case, I reduced the S8 time twice. We will see how it will be with gas consumption.
Regards. David Bittner

It is never so that a boiler with a set temperature, for example 50 degrees, will all the time work with a temperature of 50 degrees at the output, over and over again.

In my ecotec, the boiler keeps the difference of about 10-12 degrees exit, entrance. When it is 50 on the boiler, it starts at a temperature higher by about 12 degrees than the one in the pipes, around 42-45 (on the return it is then around 30-35). Slowly increases the outlet temperature as the return temperature increases. If I have 50 on the boiler and it is around 40 on the return and around 50 on the output, it turns off. In practice, I noticed that when it is set to these 50, it will sometimes reach 54-55 at the end of the cycle, although it most often turns off at 50-52.

The times you write about are the pump overrun, i.e. the time that the pump works after the burner is turned off, to continue to push the heated water a little through the pipes and the blocking time, i.e. the time that must elapse before the boiler turns on again after turning off (prevents frequent turning on of the boiler if, for example, the thermostat goes crazy and gives different information every minute). It is normal that at the start, the pump starts first, then the burner so that the burner heats the water that is already in motion.

If it cannot reach the temperature set on the thermostat, the temperature on the boiler is simply too low.

in code d.41 you have the return temperature reading

Has anyone tested how the gas consumption corresponds to the set temperature on the stove?
Assuming a constant temperature in the apartment, e.g. 21 ° C on the controller, will the stove use more gas if heating for a shorter time (85 ° C) than heating it longer (55 ° C)?
I mean when the stove is most efficient - heating with a small flame only maintaining the desired temperature at the outlet or when it heats with full power?
My logic is that when heating with less power, less heat will go into the chimney because the element that heats up in the furnace will have time to absorb more energy. How is it ?
MiniTerm stove with an open combustion chamber.

tkordus wrote:

Has anyone tested how gas consumption is related to the set temperature on the stove

buddy, gas consumption depends on so many parameters that aiming with combustion to temperature is like a fist to the eye. it seems to fit, but it leaves a mark :)


Duddy... What about capital letters? Caps lock or shift not working? Please don't forget in the future
mod. serviceman73

hello, I have five-function immergas and a tybox x2d radio, 65m flat. but I have no idea how to set the stove to heat now. Where should I set the temperature on the stove or radio tybox in programming (what program). now it is a new building and we have not heated it yet, but in the morning the windows are fogged up, I am afraid there will be no moisture.

Correct the spelling in the post - regulations!
mod.serwisant73

Please provide information whether it is mixing in the broadly understood "new building", whether it is insulated, for example, with polystyrene, or a special type of hollow bricks. Are the windows made of PVC, wooden? Is the micro-ventilation of the windows obstructed / taped?

What temperature would you like to have in your apartment? (the same in every room?)

Where is the stove located?

I corrected the spelling
mod.serwisant73

block insulated with polystyrene pvc windows microventilation only closed but not stuck with 15-20 to 21 degrees, but yes it's 19 now the stove turns on now and turn itself off from time to time.

Mrs. Wiola. Please forgive me, but I must draw your attention to the form of your speech. We write and say switch on / off. Because on the wall you probably have a light switch on the switch. Besides, your answer to my questions is at least slightly incomprehensible and incomplete.

First of all, please unseal the window (definitely in the room where the stove is located (oxygen consumption, risk of poisoning or even death, carbon monoxide), additionally in the bathroom and kitchen) by setting the handle in the right position (usually it is moving the handle by angle 45/135 degrees in relation to the closed handle).

Second, appropriate temperature is a relative term. It is certain, however, that the higher the required temperature, the greater the gas consumption. Each degree more consumes about 5-10% more gas. Personally, I think that the optimal temperature in terms of thermal and economic comfort is 20-21 degrees.

This temperature should be set on the wireless controller. Unscrew the valves in the rooms to the maximum, because the controller will control the temperature in the house.

I personally set the day mode (21st) between 5-9. and 16-24. at other times, the night temperature (16 degrees Celsius, to which, of course, it will not fall during the night). These settings, however, depend mainly on your day and week mode.

The temperature on the stove (central heating) should be set depending on the season. in autumn 1/3 max (about 35 degrees), in winter about 1/2, 2/3 max 45-60, in severe frosts you can turn up to the max about 80 degrees.

DHW temperature setting (tap water). I recommend using the trial and error method to set a temperature at which you do not need to add cold water during bathing / showering. Due to the durability and economy of the stove, hot water should be used continuously when it is needed. Ie, wash the dishes at once (not one cup every 5 minutes, do not unscrew or turn off the hot water repeatedly during the bath. Constant and continuous operation of the device is better than repeated switching on and igniting the gas.

Regards.

Hello,
I have the same stove as the author of the topic VUW 242 / 3-3M, so I am writing here. If that's not good then I'll start a new thread. I do not have a room regulator yet, I set the temperature of the system on the stove (if it is not very cold, it is 45 degrees, if it is cold it is 60 degrees). The controller in the stove is probably not the best because the stove turns on very often (several times an hour). I have a controller at home, I think I have been left with the previous apartment - Auraton 2025. All I need is the function of heating the water in the day / night circuit in relation to the central room in the house, where I want to place the controller. I do not have prepared wiring to connect the external probe and control the internal temperature of the central heating circuit. I will set it manually. My question is, is this Auraton 2025 enough, is it compatible with VUW 242 / 3-3M and can I connect it, do I have to buy a ColorMaric 350 or 332?

update:
the TurboTEC series stove can work with a universal temperature controller. such a regulator must withstand the voltage of 230V, which is on the jumper 3-4 - remove the jumper and in its place plug in the regulator and the regulator acts as a jumper when needed.

The ColorMatic 332 controller can also control the temperature of the heating system via the 7-8-9 connection, the ColorMatic 350 via the eBUS connection also controls the temperature of the tap water.