Cast iron radiator 30 ribs: power output at 55/45/20°C vs 90°C supply?

Hello, someone could tell me, calculate the power of a cast iron radiator consisting of 30 ribs. It is known that the rib has a power of 100-130W, but probably with a power supply of 90 degrees. What power will this heater have with a power supply of 55 degrees Celsius?
Is the mower able to count it for paramt4rw 55/45/20?

I found something like this, whether it can be moved with this help

http://www.iko.pwr.wroc.pl/dopobrania/OGRZEWNICTWOca3zao.pdf

adam998 wrote:

It is known that the rib has a power of 100-130W, but probably with a power supply of 90 degrees. What power will this heater have with a power supply of 55 degrees Celsius?
Is the mower able to count it for paramt4rw 55/45/20?

Clarification. The rib of the T-1 heater has theoretically 125W power (according to the manufacturer's data) with the parameters of 90/70/20. The fin of the TA-1 heater has a power of 150W with the same parameters. The T-1 and TA-1 heaters differ in that the TA-1 has such an edge (heat sink) that increases the surface area and the rib length is slightly longer. The spacing of the connection terminals is the same (50 cm).

On the Klimosz website you can also find heating parameters for cast iron radiators. Some of them are still of the old type and have high water capacity. Unfortunately, in product brochures, they only provide power for the supply temperature of 90 and 75 degrees Celsius. No data for 55/45.

http://www.klimosz.pl/grzejniki-zeliwne-viadrus.html

Maybe it can just be somehow proportionally calculated?

Will it help?

Hello and thanks, gentlemen, for your comment on this topic, but after a long time, it is not too late So I have a 30 ribs radiator, it comes out that I have TA-1 ribs (thanks Zbigniew Rusek ) and such a rib has 150W at 90/70/20 it gives 4500W and at 55/45/20 power parameters - 2250W. So if I want to replace this radiator with a steel plate, I need a 2250W radiator.

And I got 1800 Watt.

Grzegorz Siemienowicz wrote:

And I got 1800 Watt.

Oh shit ............... a sorry but a gaff I did not think to the end he he but 1800W that is more optimistic

Grzegorz Siemienowicz wrote:

Will it help?

Surely.
Where did you get this data from?

In any case, you can see that the power of the radiator decreases significantly and disproportionately at a slightly lower temperature.

General data but ..... fit all radiators with the assumed deviation of +/- 3%. As can be seen, the scale is not linear.
How and where the heater is installed is much more important. This can reduce its power of heat emitted to the room by up to 40%.
Any designer knows that it is the same with underfloor heating.

adam998 wrote:

So if I want to replace this radiator with a steel plate, I need a 2250W radiator.

Why do you want to get rid of it?
Your thinking is burdened with an error in my opinion. The power of a steel plate radiator, amounting to 2250W, is also given for the optimum conditions, i.e. power supply is about 75 degrees C. And you want to have 55 on the power supply.
I have a whole hut on cast iron and I will not mention it in my life until they ask for it themselves from old age. 40 degrees on the boiler and in the cottage it's nice and warm all winter ... Try to do the same on tin plates or even aluminum ...
If you are too hot or the place collapses, shorten it by a few ribs and that's it. Or put a good ball valve on the supply and simply restrict the flow or shut it off completely.

Piasek80 wrote:

I have a whole hut on cast iron and I will not mention it in my life until they ask for it themselves from old age. 40 degrees on the boiler and in the cottage it's nice and warm all winter ... Try to do the same on tin plates or even aluminum ...

All in all, I agree with my friend. I have replaced cast iron with aluminum ones, but only in places where the cast iron ones were too small to heat the room at a lower temperature. Cast iron seems to be much more sensitive to temperature - at 40 degrees Celsius they heat better than alu or tin plate.

Grzegorz Siemienowicz wrote:

How and where the heater is installed is much more important. This can reduce its power of heat emitted to the room by up to 40%.

Hmmm ... that's it. I have read that, paradoxically, the radiator heats up more efficiently when it is installed in a cooler place (under the window) than on a warmer internal wall.

http://www.dom.pl/gdzie-zamontowac-grzejnik.html

I will provide more information on various modern cast iron radiators (link): http://www.bgsystem.pl/vp_grzejniki.php?kat=Grzejniki%20%BFeliwne
Note: where they wrote width (in dimensions), it is not about any width, but about the spacing of the twigs. Some of these heaters (with a spacing of 500 mm) even have a power of 180W per one segment (i.e. if you were to give a large, 20-segment heater, it would be as much as 3600W at 90 degrees temperature). Many are even lighter than the T-1, although the retro style one is much heavier.

In the appendix to this message: https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic2468576.html#11773842, in chapter A2 (page 30) there are formulas and a method for calculating the correct radiator power from T-1 ribs, under changed power conditions.

Let me warm up the topic with the question whether standard cast iron radiators with heat sinks have much better efficiency than those without heat sinks?

I am forced to replace the radiator in the living room with a larger one (from 8 TA-1 to 13 T-1). Do you think it will work?

Co-operative apartment, room 16m?

Comparison: 1 T-1 fin equals 125W of power (with standard power supply); TA-1 is 150W (same parameters). 8 TA-1 ribs will be less than 10 T-1 ribs (8TA-1 is 1200W; 10 T-1 is 1250W).

In that case, I have to look for and buy 5 x TA-1 because I need a significant increase in efficiency ... this winter, which was severe, I was not able to exceed 17 ° C in the apartment ...

8 TA-1 ribs per 16m2 room should be enough and even the apartment can be overheated. Maybe there are very low parameters there, or there is a silted orifice (low flow), or the room is corner and facing north.

When the temperature was -8, the heater was turned on to max. It was almost scalded ... the apartment was uninhabited for October and December, but from holidays to the end of January it was impossible to heat it ... yes every day ... Could it be a reason for the flat to get cold? If so, how should I heat the temperature to normal level? Winter this year will be weak and what will happen when the temperature drops to -20 during the next winter ...

The apartment does not have a single outer wall of the block and the room has a window to the south.

It seems strange to me. For me, it is often too hot in winter with closed radiators, although my windows are leaky (wooden). Yes, I live on the 6th floor (insolation). It is often the case that even with a cursed radiator during the day in winter it is over 20 degrees inside (but at night the temperature would drop, so in winter you have to heat it at night). If in this construction industry (as in my case), with a radiator of this size in relation to the square footage, the radiator would burn so, the apartment would resemble an oven (I remember it from the times when radiators could not be turned off). Maybe there are very thin walls or a hole in the wall (or extremely leaky windows). If the apartment has been uninhabited for a long time, you have to wait for it to heat up, but with such a hot radiator it would not exceed 1-2 days. And are these 17 degrees true? Maybe the thermometer is bad.

Throughout this whole situation, I have thermometers in every room + weather station. Windows, new, plastic, 2 summer ... no leakages. roofing of the block after a major renovation. Does this attic cool my flat so much? It's only strange that to such an extent that it is impossible to jump over the 17-degree barrier during a harsh winter.

Maybe I will give you how it is all "plumbers' way", huh?

Well, it is enough if you take the demand of 40W / m?, that is 100W per m? of a standard room. Such heating will be comfortable down to about -25 ° C outside. Each "improvement" results in -5W, each "ambush" and we add those 5W.
So, for example, plastic windows - 35W, "cold" aluminum joinery, or old wooden windows - 45W.
The demand is calculated for the low parameters 55/45
The table that someone provided earlier regarding the change of parameters is useless - it concerns the installation of the so-called "gravitational" - as of today practically no-one does them anymore (because no-one can do it anymore).

+ poncho666
You've got a heat bridge, mate, probably over that wretched ceiling. I suggest insulating, vapor barrier foil + 2/3 layer of 50mm hard mineral wool - first layer preferably with alu foil + vapor permeable foil. All gaps should be sealed with duct tape and at the walls additionally with polyurethane foam.
Yes, polystyrene is cheaper, but rodents and fungi love it, so if the insulation will be under the screed, there may be polystyrene, if it is covered with some OSB board or nothing, it is better to give cotton wool and have peace for several dozen years.
The second reason for the underheating of the room can only be a too small radiator.

As for the discussion on the superiority of cast iron, steel or other radiators ... it is pointless. The thermal resistance of the radiator material is negligible in the calculations of the demand, and the amount of refill in the radiator only changes the thermal inertia of the CO system and is also irrelevant for installations up to 50kW. It is better to check if the radiators you buy have a radiator along its entire length, with low parameters it is of great importance! A large percentage of DIY store customers learned about it painfully. And one more thing. When buying a new heater, please check how long the warranty is, heaters with a warranty lower than 7-10 years are practically scrap.

I wish you warmth and best regards
Arek

>>10809941 hello old but Jarek in my life I will not get rid of the cast iron boiler such was the cast iron boiler nothing has moved it 7 mm no water Smolarek chimney cross sections

Welcome

An old topic, but I have a similar question and a second related one, so I am joining the thread.

How do I determine the wattage of a cast iron radiator over 30 years old, which consists of 16 fins that are 7.5-8 cm wide, 14 cm deep and 59 cm high?

If relevant, it is supplied with water from the district heating network.

It is supposed to heat a room of 23 m2.

Is it right for such a room, is it too big or too small?
I ask because the room is about 20 C. Admittedly in line with the standard, but at its limit.

Are there any reliable online calculators, or simple tables, from which I could read the radiator output and power requirements for a particular room?

There is a second room for which I have similar questions.

Regards

Without temperature data, can this somehow be measured experimentally?
Using an infrared thermometer, for example, to measure the input and output temperatures?

I think I asked the question wrong.
The temperature at the entrance of the radiator will depend on the temperature outside.
The heat hub has an outside temperature sensor and will set the temperature in the pipes depending on this.

What I meant was, what kind of power does such a radiator have by definition?
For such a room, is it too small, too large or adequate?
Are there any reliable tables or calculators to determine this?