Cable Selection for DIY Extension Cord: 400-800W Radiator, Flexible Wire, Grounded Plug Safety

Hello.
I need a dozen or so meters of extension cord at the lowest cost, so I think the best solution will be to buy the cable, plug, socket separately and assemble the whole thing. I don't know much about electricity (I'm just going to learn here ) but I think an ordinary 2-wire one is enough, but will the cheapest one be suitable?

It's about connecting a 400-800 W radiator. What else is worth remembering? Should I choose a grounded plug and is it enough in terms of safety? I would like to add that I would like the cable to be as flexible as possible (flexible), more than those in standard "shop" extension cords, but I do not know if it is possible, because the thinnest (smallest diameter) I have seen in the store was still in quite thick white armor (can't remember the diameter)...

My friend, do not take it, from your statement it is clear that you do not know the elementary grounds to take it.
You'll burn down the house or electrocute someone else.
Even if the forum tells you what kind of cable: thickness, number of cores, type of socket and plug, it is most likely due to ignorance that you will assemble it wrong.

You should use an OW 3x1.5 mm? wire.

And you will not make an extension cord with the parameters you specify at the "cheapest" cost.
Buy an extension cord in an electrical store and don't mess around, because it's a waste of time and money.

Of course, not "Chinese" because there is a thin wire in the thick insulation, and the packaging proudly says 16A

Roszer wrote:

My friend, do not take it, from your statement it is clear that you do not know the elementary grounds to take it.
You'll burn down the house or electrocute someone else.
Even if the forum tells you what kind of cable: thickness, number of cores, type of socket and plug, it is most likely due to ignorance that you will assemble it wrong.

bartek_p wrote:

And you will not make an extension cord with the parameters you specify at the "cheapest" cost.
Buy an extension cord in an electrical store and don't mess around, because it's a waste of time and money.

That's the kind of advice I was hoping for. All that's left is for someone to write - check yourself on google! And the topic can be safely closed as exhausted.
(PS If it was possible to "buy" such an extension cord to size in an electric store, I would buy it (the garden one on the drum I'm not interested in, as it could be concluded, only a neater one), so I'm going to "combine" and I would like to join it with some knowledge)

Maybe someone else will share this obvious, but apparently very valuable knowledge on this topic?

In what protection class is your radiator made?

Interesting with the extension cord. I always "worked out" that the cheapest is to buy ready-made. I don't mind the fact that the purchased one is more "elegant".
Doing it, yes, makes sense, but in the case that we already have some details and we know things. Even an extension cord requires knowledge of electricity.
For example, does the author of the post know why the contacts are heating up and they shouldn't be?

Łukasz-O wrote:

In what protection class is your radiator made?

Protection class I
This is probably the simplest model of the possible 230V/50Hz

That is, an extension cord with a PE conductor, connected to a socket with an efficient protective contact.

trebuch1 wrote:

I always "worked out" that the cheapest is to buy ready-made

Not always. At least not what I need.

trebuch1 wrote:

bought is more "elegant"

Not at all. Blocky and thick, and I would like something with the smallest possible diameter. I don't know if something smaller than OMY 3x0.75 will do (e.g. 2x0.75 / 3x0.5?), That's why I'm asking - maybe I'll be able to find out a few things about this topic, because I won't go to electronics studies to find out how to choose the cable and install the plug. Isn't that what these forums are for?

It's about connecting a 400-800W radiator and you want to do it with a cable
with a cross-section of 3x0.5mm2 because the store ones are too thick.

The cable for this load must not have a cross-section smaller than 3x1.5mm2.
Add to this double (required insulation) and you will get the "thick" one that you do not accept.

You don't have to sign up for studies because of the cable, but don't dictate the terms here
technical. This is a tech forum, not a "coffee or tea" forum.

Michal.K wrote:

I think a simple 2-wire is enough, but will the cheapest one be suitable?

That's what we're explaining to you, friend, that it won't work.

A plug with a pin (not Chinese), a socket with a pin (not Chinese) and several meters of 3x2.5 mm cable (not Chinese) plus your robot will really cost more than an orange 3-wire extension cord from castorama or another LM.

trebuch1 wrote:

The cable for this load must not have a cross-section smaller than 3x1.5mm2.
Add to this double (required insulation) and you will get the "thick" one that you do not accept.

And that's the kind of information I wanted, but is it really that hard to share? Supported by some description/explanation, it's like finding a four-leaf clover, like hitting a six in the lottery (well, maybe five!).

Will such a cable also be suitable for a 1200W device (radiator)?

Added after 29 [minutes]:

bartek_p wrote:

Michal.K wrote:

I think a simple 2-wire is enough, but will the cheapest one be suitable?

That's what we're explaining to you, friend, that it won't work.

We've already established that as well (in a dozen or so posts above that have already appeared, including for this quoted question)

bartek_p wrote:

... several meters of cable (not Chinese) 3x2.5 mm ...

We decided on 3x1.5mm (although today I also heard that 3x0.75 will do, but I will not argue and argue - for the purposes of the forum I will stay with 3x1.5)

bartek_p wrote:

A plug with a pin (not Chinese), a socket with a pin (not Chinese) and several meters of cable (not Chinese) ...

Is it really such a risk with these Chinese? What do they save on there (in the case of these cables/plugs/sockets)? From what I've seen in supermarkets, there were probably no Chinese cables/plugs/sockets at all (most, if not all - PL), apparently they don't trust them either

0.75 will do. It should be at least 1.5. The price difference between 1.5 and 2.5 is not great and if you make good plugs carefully, you will have peace of mind for years. And perhaps in six months the radiator will no longer be needed and you will be able to use the extension cord for other devices.

Quote:

Is it really such a risk with these Chinese? What do they save on there (in the case of these cables/plugs/sockets)? From what I've seen in supermarkets, there were probably no Chinese cables/plugs/sockets at all (most, if not all - PL), apparently they don't trust them either

2x1.5mm cable=1mm insulation+0.5mm wire.

bartek_p wrote:

...will really cost more than an orange 3-wire extension cord from Castorama or another LM.

PS If it was that simple, I wouldn't bother (as I wrote in post #6). In my store, the orange ones are the same 30m and only 2-wire.

bartek_p wrote:

0.75 in nada . It should be at least 1.5

typo? It was supposed to be it won't or however nada ? 'Cause after all, I don't know...

0.75 won't work. Will you use this extension cord created by you only for the 800 W radiator? Certainly not. The price difference between a decent OW 3x1.5 mm2 and an OW 3x2.5mm2 is not great, so if you insisted on building your own extension cord so much, not trusting in ''market ready-made'', get a OW 3x2.5mm2 cable, a decent plug and a socket and "do it yourself"

EltraATS wrote:

2x1.5mm cable=1mm insulation+0.5mm wire.

I have an irresistible impression that my colleague confused the cross-section with the diameter.

MrMazi wrote:

EltraATS wrote:

2x1.5mm cable=1mm insulation+0.5mm wire.

I have an irresistible impression that my colleague confused the cross-section with the diameter.

my assumptions are similar, cross-section is not diameter, cross-section is the cross-sectional area of the conductor expressed in mm? and not in mm.

First, it's not a cable, it's a cord. The cables are buried in the ground under the pavement.
Second : 3x2.5mm2 wire. The best solution. In six months you will wonder why your extension cord burned out just because you connected it to an electric mower or hammer drill with more power.
Why so thick? Well, because it's better to have a spare than to buy a second one later (or in this case to make a new one), as well as because wires with a smaller cross-section have a lower long-term load capacity. From Polish to ours: The more powerful devices you try to power, the more the cable will heat up during its operation, and the higher its temperature, the easier it is to damage it.
Why a three-wire cable and not a two-wire one? I think this question also needs to be answered because my colleague wrote that he does not have knowledge on this subject.
Phase conductor (L) + neutral conductor (N) + protective conductor (PE). The adopted standards should not be changed and the standards are that we install installations in apartments using three-core and five-core cables (the so-called force).
You must choose the plug so that you are sure that the clamps will not loosen in a year, so it cannot be the cheapest. An under-pressurized conductor causes sparking, which in turn translates into power loss. In some cases, it can also cause a shock hazard, and you wouldn't want that.
The socket must also be equipped with a protective contact (pin or, in other words, grounding, although there is a long way to grounding here).
I hope I helped you at least a little bit and made your task easier.
And finally, to all forum users:
If someone asks you for help, don't send them back to the store with a request: Go buy it and don't turn the guitar back. This forum is for sharing knowledge and helping those who have less than us.
Regards
Elvis

Elvis1992 wrote:

First, it's not a cable, it's a cord. The cables are buried in the ground under the pavement.
Second : 3x2.5mm2 wire. The best solution. In six months you will wonder why your extension cord burned out just because you connected it to an electric mower or hammer drill with more power.
Why so thick? Well, because it's better to have a spare than to buy a second one later (or in this case to make a new one), as well as because wires with a smaller cross-section have a lower long-term load capacity. From Polish to ours: The more powerful devices you try to power, the more the cable will heat up during its operation, and the higher its temperature, the easier it is to damage it.
Why a three-wire cable and not a two-wire one? I think this question also needs to be answered because my colleague wrote that he does not have knowledge on this subject.
Phase conductor (L) + neutral conductor (N) + protective conductor (PE). The adopted standards should not be changed and the standards are that we install installations in apartments using three-core and five-core cables (the so-called force).
You must choose the plug so that you are sure that the clamps will not loosen in a year, so it cannot be the cheapest. An under-pressurized conductor causes sparking, which in turn translates into power loss. In some cases, it can also cause a shock hazard, and you wouldn't want that.
The socket must also be equipped with a protective contact (pin or, in other words, grounding, although there is a long way to grounding here).
I hope I helped you at least a little bit and made your task easier.
And finally, to all forum users:
If someone asks you for help, don't send them back to the store with a request: Go buy it and don't turn the guitar back. This forum is for sharing knowledge and helping those who have less than us.
Regards
Elvis

Thanks for the professional approach. So I think I will be tempted by the option described by you (also by some above) - 3x2.5mm2. The arguments are strong. I also realize that electricity is no joke. I think that the information from your post will also be useful to many people in the future - presented professionally and easily - it's great that such an entry appeared.

Here you are.
Regards

I often make my own extension cords and will add some information to keep them in one place.
Explanation for those who recommend "ready-made" and do not understand why you need to make an extension cord yourself: the folding box gives you the opportunity to make an extension cord exactly as needed - with an individually selected length (not from a series of types), plug (angled, straight, more grippy , ultra-flat, etc.), socket or sockets (multiplicity of branches, parallel, diagonal, transverse plug connections, visual matters) and cross-section (as well as color) of the cable adapted to the needs.
Speaking of cross-section - advising 3x2.5 mm2 is an extreme, the more that the query started with a request for as flexible as possible medium power cable. Already 3x1.5mm2 is not very flexible, and besides, it barely fits in typical plugs and sockets of extension cords for assembly (I'm talking about accessories for amateur use).

Currently, debt extenders are available in stores as standard. 5m on the cable 3x1.0mm2 with the given permissible load up to 10A (P max 2500W). For xenophobes - I mean "not Chinese", but a Polish manufacturer.
In turn, from certificates issued by BBJ-SEP for debt extension cords. up to 10 m (also for a Polish manufacturer) you can find out that an OMY cable is enough to load 16A at 250V (which corresponds to 4000W power) 3x1.5mm2 (i.e. the certificate was issued for an extension cord with such parameters).
I will use the example of a fairly well-known brand (as in the picture - attachment, it is not a "Chinese no-name"), where the triple socket is to handle the power of 3500 W, with power supply via 3x1.5 mm2 wires. In this case, the 3x2.5 wire really does not fit, it even "tears" the connection terminal of this socket.


At the end, a curiosity - a comparative photo of the cable from the old extension cord (factory "no name", non-detachable, 10 A) and the new 3x1.5 cord. I think it gives food for thought what we buy in stores. The flexibility of the cable from the factory extension cable is simply due to the use of visibly thin wires. It is worth noting that the manufacturer assumed that the zeroing wire (the blue one) can be even thinner than the working wires. This is our reality: little copper, a lot of plastic (insulation) - as long as the business is good. The client won't even notice...