Choosing the Right Cable Cross-Section for Kitchen Appliances: Fridge, Stove, Oven

Hello everyone, quite late everyone.
I need a short hint and advice on the conductor cross-section. It is about sockets in the kitchen, 3 or 4 sockets to be exact. The receivers are, of course, a fridge-freezer, a gas-electric stove (power according to the tables from 2 to even 5.9 kW depending on the manufacturer), an electric oven (power 2-3.6 kW) and of course some smaller household appliances such as a blender, etc.
3x2.5mm? or 3x4mm ?? I would divide it into two separate circuits with B16 protection for each, and 3x2.5mm? Wires. Correct?

Clamps under the gear usually allow a maximum clamping of 2.5mm?

Darkdarkman wrote:

Clamps under the gear usually allow a maximum clamping of 2.5mm?

Mhm. Fact. I got Babola! I'm ashamed.

5x2.5mm for the oven, separate fridge, separate dishwasher, separate sockets, 3x2.5mm ??.

olejopalacz2 wrote:

For the 5x2.5 oven,

All devices are single-phase.

Pull 5x2.5mm under the stove? It will be better and with a spare.

For the stove-oven, give 3 × 4mm?. The 16A fuse is definitely too small. 2.5mm? cross-section and the 16A fuse, we use up to 3.5KW - if the power consumption is to reach ~ 6KW, then 25A will be on contact.

Will 4mm? be pressed into the socket terminal?

Colleagues, how do you connect nests from practice? Separate power cord for each or in parallel?

malina998 wrote:

Will 4mm? be pressed into the socket terminal?

If I understand correctly, you want to connect the cooker to the schuko socket!

If the plug is also schuoko then yes. I have not checked what plugs have cookers or an oven so far.

For three-phase electric kitchens I give 5 × 4mm? And for single-phase 3 × 6mm? with a protection of 25A.

Added after 6 [minutes]:

malina998 wrote:

If the plug is also schuko, then yes. I have not checked what plugs have cookers or an oven so far.

With a power consumption of more than 2.5, or up to 3kW, you cannot use a plug-socket! They are adapted to a MAXIMUM of 16A!

First of all, what are we meant by "gas-electric stove"? Got it gas hob with electric oven - right? If not, please specify. Enter the model, type, manufacturer name. What connection power do you have? If this data is known, we can further discuss.

Any receivers above 2kW (dishwasher, washing machine, oven) should be on separate circuits. General sockets in the kitchen as well.
Needless to say, the socket circuits should be additionally protected with an RCD.

psilos1 wrote:

For three-phase electric kitchens it gives 5 × 4, and for single-phase 3 × 6 kitchens with 25A protection

25A on one phase in Polish home conditions - you deign to joke.

And here my friend contradicts himself:

psilos1 wrote:

With a power consumption of more than 2.5, up to 3KW, you cannot use a plug-socket because they are designed for a MAXIMUM of 16A!

and

psilos1 wrote:

2.5mm? cross-section and a 16A fuse can be used up to 3.5KW

Make up your mind finally. Or maybe you'd better stop writing nonsense already.

16A at 230V is a maximum of ~ 3.6KW - we are not talking about a kettle but about an electric stove-oven that can be turned on for hours.
The electric kitchen I have consumes a maximum of over 5KW ... single-phase installation ... according to the respected moderator, what sections and protections should it have?
They taught me in the energy sector that 5KW is over 20A ...

Added after 14 [minutes]:

Łukasz-O wrote:

Make up your mind finally. Or maybe you'd better stop writing nonsense already.

The privilege to be a moderator does not justify the use of such vocabulary! If you do not agree with me, please write culturally - do not be offended !!

psilos1 wrote:

16A at 230V is a maximum of ~ 3.6KW - we are not talking about a kettle but about an electric stove-oven that can be turned on for hours.
The electric kitchen I have consumes a maximum of over 5KW ... single-phase installation ... according to the respected moderator, what sections and protections should it have?
They taught me in the energy sector that 5KW is over 20A ...

Oven on for hours? I thought we were talking about an apartment, not a bakery and confectionery cooperative.
Forgive me, but a single-phase electric cooker with a power of 5kW is absurd in Polish home conditions.
After that, the author wrote about a gas-electric stove. I believe the first power (of the kitchen) is for gas. The second is the oven. Oven (as a rule) terminated with a cord with a regular plug adapted to a 16A socket. That is? Still saying you should route 3x6 wire and secure 25A? It is different if the equipment does not have a plug. Fortunately, each device has instructions where we can find guidelines.

psilos1 wrote:

The privilege to be a moderator does not justify the use of such vocabulary! If you do not agree with me, please write culturally - do not be offended !!

Sorry, but how else to call two contradicting theories expressed by the same man within a dozen or so minutes?

malina998 wrote:

(Power according to the tables from 2 to even 5.9 kW depending on the manufacturer)

In my posts, I responded to the above statement by the author ...
As for the electric cooker and oven - how many non-stop hours are included, for example, before Christmas?

I will quote the whole:

malina998 wrote:

, gas-electric cooker (power according to the tables from 2 to even 5.9kW depending on the manufacturer), electric oven (power 2-3.6kW)

Do you see an inaccuracy?

malina998 wrote:

As for the electric cooker and oven - how many non-stop hours are included, for example, before Christmas?

I do not keep such statistics. Did you see the cross section of the oven power cord? Enter the value of the protection recommended in the manual and the requirements for the installation. We are talking all about home appliances available on the Polish market.

When it comes to the gas-electric stove, I mean an ordinary stove with the so-called ignition / spark gap, which works while being energized and probably that's it. I'll find out what they really want. I took the data from one of the household appliances stores. As for the oven, it will be built-in.
All single phase devices and there will never be any induction there which requires 3 phase installation.
The RCD will, of course, be there.

malina998 wrote:

When it comes to the gas-electric stove, I mean an ordinary stove with the so-called ignition / spark gap, which works while being energized and probably that's it

Does the magneto need 5.9 kW of power ???

malina998 wrote:

All single phase devices and there will never be any induction there which requires 3 phase installation.

Not necessarily. Depends on the type / manufacturer. Mine has a maximum of 7.8 kW and a power supply from two phases.
Of course, it did not have a plug, but the electric oven (probably 3.5kW) did have a plug.

malina998 wrote:

I'll find out what they really want. I took the data from one of the household appliances stores.

There is a problem with this data before buying. Merchants know the button. Marketing teasers are not very meaningful. Most often, we find out about what we stand ... after the purchase, reading (if someone is reading?) The manual, and the installation must already be done.
To get ready for contact, you need to download the instructions from the Internet or pick it from the packaging in the store, but you have to be sure of the choice of the device, which is difficult ..... A woman is changeable and the market situation is also changing.
Because what if you want an induction hob at the last minute?
According to it is better for me to lead a 5-core cable near the oven, as my colleagues suggested. Even if 2 cores will "stick", in a few years, when changing the design, you will not have to replace the installation.

psilos1 wrote:

For three-phase electric kitchens it gives 5 × 4, and for single-phase 3 × 6 kitchens with 25A protection

Or maybe fly right away with busbars and BMy to it?
Plus some little nuclear power plant in the basement?

Moderated By Akrzy74:

3.1.11. It is forbidden to publish entries that do not contain substantive content, contain harmful advice, advice that is not an attempt to solve the problem, and the publication of identical entries consecutive or repeating information from the discussion.
Next time a colleague will receive a warning.

Darkdarkman wrote:

psilos1 wrote:

For three-phase electric kitchens it gives 5 × 4, and for single-phase 3 × 6 kitchens with 25A protection

Or maybe fly right away with busbars and BMy to it?
Plus some little nuclear power plant in the basement?

I have a cwaniaczku, this is the stove:
The installation is of course single-phase ... I have it connected 3 × 6 with 25A protection. (Single-phase connection 63A) Maybe you can explain to me what I am doing wrong ... I finished energy technical college over 20 years ago, so maybe something has changed during this time?

Moderated By kkas12:

3.1.9. It is forbidden to disseminate ironic, mocking or malicious content that shows disrespect for other Users or third parties.
Warning # 2.
For the "trickster".

In addition.
3.1.13. It is forbidden to publish entries that violate the spelling rules of the Polish language, careless and incomprehensible.

psilos1 wrote:

One-phase installation, of course ... I have it connected 3 × 6 with 25A protection. single-phase connection 63A )

But in Łódź or Athens?

zbich70 wrote:

psilos1 wrote:

One-phase installation, of course ... I have it connected 3 × 6 with 25A protection. single-phase connection 63A )

But in Łódź or Athens?

In this case, in Athens ... but that's not the point - the topic is the appropriate selection of the cable cross-section for the power consumption of the device and for the appropriate protection. Example: during the renovation of my mother's house, a professional electrician gave 3 × 2.5 with protection 16A !!

At home, you can even hack 3x16 if you have such a fantasy.
For 3x6, the permissible long-term load capacity, depending on the arrangement, is much more than 40A.

Unless you have 300 meters of this cable for the stove.

psilos1 wrote:

The topic is the selection of the cable cross-section to the power consumption of the device and the appropriate protection.

So in order to choose cross-sections and protections (and install receivers with significant powers) you first need to know the WTP and the connected power.

psilos1 wrote:

In this case, in Athens ... but that's not the point - the topic is the appropriate selection of the cable cross-section for the power consumption of the device and for the appropriate protection. Example: during the renovation of my mother's house, a professional electrician gave 3 × 2.5 with protection 16A !!

What does that have to do with this topic?

Does the author connect the terma? He writes about an ordinary gas stove with an electric oven. A separate 3x2.5mm? circuit secured by a B16 switch is enough.

Wires spread out. Now I'm just waiting for the development project to come, i.e. where, what cabinets and how to decide where what should stand. I have always had the opinion that renovation and, in addition, one room is worse than war I made 3 circuits secured with B16 switches. The location of the existing switchgear, and at the same time the lack of space to add even one apparatus, is also the best that can be. But no one said it would be easy and fun.

Larger switchboards can always be installed
It is a pity that you did not write what the circuits are and whether they are protected by a residual current device.

Oh, believe that you can't get more ... I had to take the paneling of the bottom of the stairs apart, because the masking frame wouldn't come out I added a surface in the only possible place.
In general, fortunately, it is still far from connecting all this and I still have to rework this switchgear. There is one RCD 40A in the current old switchgear. Powered by 3 phases. And here, as a curiosity, I will write that the power supply is at the top, the load is at the bottom, but also at the bottom.
I knew it would be economical, but I didn't think it would be that much. Arguments are useless ...
"so far it will continue to work". And that's it.

malina998 wrote:

Oh, believe that you can't get more ... I had to take the paneling of the bottom of the stairs apart, because the masking frame wouldn't come out I added a surface in the only possible place.
In general, fortunately, it is still far from connecting all this and I still have to rework this switchgear. There is one RCD 40A in the current old switchgear. Powered by 3 phases. And here, as a curiosity, I will write that the power supply is at the top, the load is at the bottom, but also at the bottom.
I knew it would be economical, but I didn't think it would be that much. Arguments are useless ...
"so far it will continue to work". And that's it.

Bad reasoning. In addition, a three-phase RCD for everything, it will take revenge sooner or later.

We know it. But others, unfortunately, do not. In the event of a breakdown, the entire house is left without power. However, I will try to break through some reason and I would split it into 3 single-phase RCDs.


Managed to. There will be 3 RCDs 25A 0.03A. This RCD 40A will be fired. As the current equipment is Hager, I will also look for this company. Only the Schneider switches will hurt your eyes