Passat b4 Brake Guides: Proper Lubrication Type and Quantity for DIY Replacement

Hello, I will be replacing brake pads and discs at home (on my own!). I neglected the matter a bit, because I never checked these yokes or guides (as he called it), so in the left wheel the brake was slightly tightening until the block ended and in the other (right) wheel one block was slightly wedged.
I read a lot of topics by entering the password in google:
https://www.google.pl/search?q=ile+smaru+w+ restaurnice+hamulc%C3%B3&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&rls=org.mozilla:pl:official&client=firefox-a&gws_rd=cr&ei= hLfkUoyNK6iT0QWN3oCIDw # q = how much + grease + w + guides + brakes% C3% B3w & rls = org.mozilla: pl: official & spell = 1
and there is such a thing that apart from the fact that I wanted to use a copper grease, now my head is confused.
Gentlemen, mechanics, what kind do you use? The temperature on these slides is rather not high and I think I can even use joint grease or not? And apply enough grease to make these guides vomit or lubricate them so that only these bolts are covered with a thin layer of grease?

Quote:

WHAT do you use to lubricate the title elements?
Reading internet wisdom gave me a headache:
"only copper - nothing else"
"by no means copper, anything but that"
"lithium will be the best"
"lithium can't do it"
"only specialist lubricant for guides for PLN 100 / tube 4 ml"
Where is the truth?

Bosch produces a special grease for brake.

ps. I quickly checked the price on a well-known portal, 100 ml. / 15 PLN

It is a pity that you cannot read comprehensively and answer questions that are more comfortable for you without having the slightest idea about it.

It's nice that you have an idea.

Basia0001 wrote:

The temperature on these slides is rather not high and I think I can even use joint grease or not?

I give you the information on a professional lubricant, you should know how to use it, it's a simple operation.

Good luck.

You can look for ceramic grease or brake grease, they call it. Regular grease will get thick over time, and you will never remove the rails in the end.

I read about plastitube, or whatever it is called, but the husband who left this place smeared these guides with it and something happened over time, I do not remember exactly. After reading the manual, it turned out that this grease can be used to lubricate the pads on the back so that they do not stuck, and on other forums they recommend it.
Copper also recommend and not.
So what lubricant is used for the first assembly? That is, during the assembly phase of a new car.

omegolotC30NE wrote:

I give you the information on a professional lubricant, you should know how to use it, it's a simple operation.

How much do you put on when you are so insistent on it?

Basia0001 wrote:

So what lubricant is used for the first assembly?

I do not know. Probably none.

Basia0001 wrote:

How much do you put on when you insist on it?

I do not insist; I apply a thin layer. Ask yourself a throne and look for a card of that measure.

Buddy, thank you for your statements on this topic.

He uses http://www.wurth.pl/katalog2/karty/A0893%20980.pdf or ATE plastilube on his website. It has been ok for many years. I do the same cars more than once and there is no problem with the caliper floating. I don't read, I don't wonder if it's good or bad. cleans and lubricates and I must replace the casing when suspicious.

My husband once complained about these ates. Today I found other complaints on the Internet that this grease from ate is used to lubricate the blocks so that they do not burn.

On the caliper guides, brake piston grease or ordinary technical petroleum jelly (does not react with the rubber of which the guide covers are made). Clean everything properly (the guides should run dry without any problem) and apply a thin layer of grease. Install the blocks using copper or aluminum grease, also clean the place where the block sits in the yoke well and it will be ok.

Do not put copper grease guides !!!

Hello,
My friend, I will write it for you like this.
When you buy pads, let you in the store also give you lubricant for the brakes or pistons, I just use wurtha so white.
After you take everything apart, unscrew the guides, take them on the table, clean them carefully, then see if the block will slide slightly along the guide, only not so that the block has too much slack, I already had such a case, the block will knock and you do not know where to look for a knock. Lubricate the guides just not so that the grease leaks out rather so that it is applied with sense.
Then, before pressing the plunger, check that the rubber is not damaged and that the plunger is not rusted (only me, please do not take the rubber off because it is hard to put it on) then, before pressing the plunger, also lubricate it so that it enters lightly and does not jam.
If you do all this, before putting the blocks on, grease those external parts of the block that are in contact, i.e. where it touches the plunger and the clamp.
Before tightening the screws, lubricate them well with grease so that they do not stuck and remember to clean and lubricate the guides
Best regards and have a nice work.

These lubricants make my head ache. This is the case in most workshops. Wire brush put the blocks in a little effort and that's it. No grease like this or that. Regarding the temperature ... You probably do not realize what the temperatures are there, because ordinary grease will disappear after the first week and you will not feel its lack. If you wish, nothing will knock you! Unless you lose your badges ...

When you clean it, coat ATE with that for the pistons. Not much, so that it does not flow out, because it can get on the target.
The blocking of the guides itself may not necessarily be caused by their sticking, but also by their bending (although they work loosely individually, they are locked with a clamp). The caliper bolts are not lubricated.
Copper is actually "badly seen" in this place, but this applies to places where it works with aluminum / potential difference / system elements / newer braking systems /. The places where you want to lubricate are not aluminum, so theoretically you can use such a lubricant, but I noticed that in the clamping guides it often clumps together.

I know what to do and how to do it, because I have always changed the pads and the disc myself, but never lubricated it. There are videos on yt, how to do it from a to z. I will not remove the rubber from the plunger as long as it works well. For now, we'll wait until Monday because I won't buy anything today. At the moment, I know everything. Thanks for the good advice.

Basia0001 wrote:

I will not remove the rubber from the plunger as long as it is running well.

And who tells you to take the rubbers off the piston ???

A friend wrote that I should not download by accident.

I do not fully understand these dilemmas - wherever the grease comes into contact with the brake fluid, a special brake grease is given, e.g. from the well-known auction website ATE BREMSZYLINDER-PASTE BRAKE GREASE 180G - in Poland it is PLN 30 abroad about PLN 50-80 - this grease is not oil-based and may therefore come into contact with the brake fluid.

Metal parts that work together and do not come into contact with the brake fluid, you can use ceramic or copper paste - I prefer ceramic paste, but it's a matter of taste.

By the way, it is worth doing a full cleaning of the calipers with the replacement of rubber elements - buy the so-called repair kit - the cost is about PLN 30-40, if it turns out that the piston is corroded, it is worth replacing it

But you do. I always give you a copper paste and there have never been problems with taking the clamp back off.

The guides, i.e. these yokes, do not come into contact with the liquid, it is more about not reacting with temperature and rubber. I heard about the copper that you must not. But I will buy a different one than the copper one.

Someone will search on google and will find another topic for and against and will also find out nothing

Basia0001 wrote:

The guides, i.e. these yokes, do not come into contact with the liquid, it is more about not reacting with temperature and rubber. I heard about the copper that you are not allowed. But I will buy a different one than the copper one.

Someone will search on google and will find another topic for and against, and will also find out nothing

Why is copper grease used under medium-high temperature conditions? Because the lubricant is copper itself, and electrochemical corrosion does not occur dry (the surface temperature is too low to melt any salts).
I made clamps for copper paste, I made ceramic paste - ceramic crop just because it is more universal and one collective packaging covers a wider range of applications (e.g. aluminum alloys).

In the case of brake calipers, 90% of the market is made of cast iron and as such they do not require lubrication (cast iron has self-lubricating properties), paste (copper / ceramic) is only intended to improve properties and prevent sticking (therefore copper / ceramic pastes are not actually used) as lubricants, but rather as anti-stick substances - anti seizure).

Basia0001 wrote:

A friend wrote that I should not download by accident.

I wrote about the caliper guiding covers, not the rubbers on the plunger.

Basia0001 wrote:

I have never checked these yokes or guides (as he called it)

It doesn't matter to you what it's called and you're confusing two different things.
The yoke is permanently bolted to the steering knuckle.
There are blocks moving in the yoke.
A clamp is attached to the yoke by a guide.
The guides must be checked each time if they are not seized - there are rubber bands on the guides that prevent dirt from getting into the guides. The guides should be lubricated, but it depends on the car because sometimes, as in Passat, the guides are on Teflon sleeves and nothing is done here except to check whether the clamp moves along the guide and whether the guide bushing has rusted on the bolt and is now one.
Lack of movement of the caliper on the guide will result in uneven pad wear on both sides of the brake disc.
As for the yoke on which the block moves, which is moved by the clamp, I personally never lubricate it - I always clean the yoke of dirt and rust. The brick should move without much resistance in it. Otherwise, the pads will wear unevenly.
Why I do not lubricate the yoke with grease and I do not recommend it - because the car is full of sand and dirt during the operation of the car - some sand and grease ceases to fulfill its function and it is worse than without grease. If someone used to play with grease, they know that sand and grease cannot be separated anymore.
The hubs are also not lubricated with grease - they only need to be cleaned of dirt so that there is nothing between the disc and the hub.

Use ATE Plastitube or silicone grease (no matter what company, e.g. Eze-Slide grease) for the caliper guides. For lubrication (although there is no need to lubricate) the guides of the blocks and the blocks themselves, ceramic grease, e.g. from Permatex, or also silicone grease, e.g. Eze-Slide, is used. The use of copper grease in the brake system is unacceptable due to the phenomenon of electrochemical corrosion (aluminum calipers). In addition, the copper (copper) grease will start to "dry up" and become "soggy". The copper grease in the caliper guides fits like a fist to the nose . ATE Plastitube or silicone grease are used for this purpose.
Brake fluid is used to lubricate the seal in the caliper piston and the piston itself (so that it fits better), or e.g. ATE Bremszylinder grease.
Please also watch the video:

An amateur, the guides do not lubricate in this car, the rubber guides have lips, so they have to run dry, the copper grease on the clamps and guides is asking for a misfortune.