Using Mounting Paste for Piston on Brake Caliper Guides: Can Same Paste be Used? ATE Plastilube

Hello. I used a paste for mounting the pistons for the piston, can the same paste be used for the guides?

Because I have a tube of such a paste, can I use it, or it will not be "in accordance with the art" and I have to run to the store for, for example, ATE Plastilube? :)

The popular copper grease is absolutely not working, it damages the rubber and over time the guides work hard.

Yes, you can apply. It will help as well as spitting on the guides.
What brake system are we talking about? Ugh, uh ...

Honda Civic 1998 5D 1.5, rear disc brakes, Lucas system. If you need a photo, they will also be there And please take my question seriously and without irony, I am not a professional in this field, that's why I ask. "Professionals" in Bydgoszcz frequently use copper grease, which does not work for guides.

Copper / copper grease is used where there is a risk of sticking and seizing. Not completely suitable for low-fit, sealed connections. Yes, you can use the plunger one. I do not want photos, I used to throw in the manual myself.

barubar wrote:

connections with a small fit, sealed.

Well, that's what an "airbag" is, and it hardens. Only when I looked for more information, I woke up that I was always put in a putty with this grease, that it should be lubricated :)

barubar wrote:

I do not want photos, I used to throw in the manual myself.

I don't remember anything like that, but

You don't have to remember, many people don't remember each other here. They are deleted, banned, persecuted for writing the truth. Sometimes painful. Good luck.

and for this they set up other accounts and accuse other users of such dirty practices. what not barubar

Moderated By robokop:

4 warning - aggressive fasting and doing nothing. We keep playing?

Teg wrote:

Well, that's what an "airbag" is, and it hardens. Only when I looked for more information, I woke up that I was always put in a putty with this grease, that it should be lubricated

Plain ŁT4S3, or the one added with joints. It is not a loaded friction knot - it should only be slippery.

And I use a graphite one for bicycle chains, tractor saddles, .......

Gentlemen, but now I don't know if you're kidding or writing it from practice. The temperature is high there. Ordinary ŁT or graphite will not last?

Besides, the theme of setting up other accounts is quite ... cheerful and familiar to me

Give what you have. As I understand it, you mean the guides, the ones that are screwed in, under the rubber bellows, right? The temperature there is higher than on the plunger itself, it is not much, otherwise the rubber bands would burn out. Another thing is that if you undress in a year, you will be surprised, instead of lubricant you will again have sticky or even stiff sludge.

Teg wrote:

Gentlemen, but now I don't know if you're kidding or writing it from practice. The temperature is high there. Ordinary ŁT or graphite will not last?

And where does the temperature on the guides come from? The discs heat the most, the pads are average due to the material, the calipers barely. The lubricant is only supplied there so that corrosion does not cause the guide pins to seize up. No philosophy.

Hello
In fact, I do not know why write so much. People who are familiar with the subject and experiencing the problem with repeatedly seized rails in the rear calipers know very well that this "contraption" must be lubricated every time you repair it, because the next time there will be a problem. And it probably doesn't matter what kind of grease you get greasy / certainly none of them will burn there except for natural aging and as a result "glut", as my colleague said / as long as it is lubricated and it is important that the rubber bands are intact. To the range of "spreads" proposed here, I will also add tallow, which I sometimes use.
greetings

The guides in the brake caliper on which the brake pads "work" (move) are lubricated with copper grease (it can be a spray, but grease from a tube or other container will be much better because it is much denser and can be applied more freely).
Copper grease does not adversely affect the braking quality.
Lubricants other than copper ones, after they come into contact with the working surface of the disc / pad, are dangerous, as they deteriorate the braking quality (in extreme cases, they may lead to glazing of the pads, etc., conditions requiring their replacement with new ones + thorough cleaning of the brake disc).

A good branded, copper spray grease works great when we bought some poor pads that like to squeak, then it is enough to splash on the brake disc in moderation and the squeaking problem disappears. (Note! Do not use other types of lubricant!).


However, when it comes to the lubrication of the pistons, commonly known as brake cylinders, I recommend special lubricants intended for this purpose.
Often, such lubricants are added to motorcycle brake caliper repair kits. Such a set consists of rubber seals on which the plunger "slides" and a small container with grease (often having an interesting, e.g. pink / red color).

Alternatively, it is worth "jerking" and buying a very good lubricant for Wurth's brake cylinders -> http://www.wurth.pl/katalog2/karty/A0893%20980.pdf

Especially if someone rides a motorcycle, he will feel the differences - the blocks bounce easily and during, for example, pushing, they only gently rub against the shield (read: moto offers little resistance).

Do not lubricate the cylinders this way -> http://w4.bikepics.com/pics/2009/03/22/bikepics-1608371-full.jpg

Mazda 626 GE 2.0 1995

For me, I had a problem with "holding" brakes in the front. I bought a repair kit or "rubber bands" and this orange grease was included. Mainly the guides worked hard - damaged rubber bands. Disassembled, cleaned, lubricated the guides gently. There was peace for several thousand (six months). A few days ago the right wheel was so "held" that I did not have to brake when reaching the intersection. After turning the wheels several times or stopping - it let go. The bolts in the wheel are so stuck that one pin needs to be replaced. And I have no idea what was the cause. The piston is perfect, the guides work lightly. However, I have noticed that they have a slight side slack. Could there be a situation that they will slip out at an angle and jam?

So far I have lubricated it again and it reflects everything beautifully, but I do not know for how long. The prices of new calipers are an inflection. You can also go crazy with the advice of specialists - some do not lubricate - others lubricate.


Photo of the GF from the mazdaspeed forum - identical clip.

Flexible hoses change.

Can it really affect?

As they are delaminated and rolled up inside, the fluid will pass with a lot of resistance. You can try to loosen the breather as the brake holds and you will see.

This may make sense, especially since it is let down, for example, when parking, when you turn the steering wheel a lot. Thanks a lot. I will mention - they turned 16 years old. I didn't even think about it.

Buddy, dgolf, I have the same car and the same problem with the left front wheel, but it holds me gently, you can only hear a slight squeaking as I go back. After disassembling, cleaning and lubrication did not improve much - maybe these hoses really need to be replaced and all the fluid in the system?

Reparatures + marked and similarly at the bottom, those elements on which the clamp 'floats', clean, no pitting, lubricated = no problems with the clamp.
In addition, the place where the block 'floats' on the yoke is cleaned of muck and you can enjoy normal brakes.

drawbar85:
It is true that the back, but the same in the front, springs of the badge, etc. It may be that you are squeaking because of this, or the block is running out and this badge 'warns you'



gawlo235:
"When you turn right left, the play in the hub pushes the cylinder back and releases it (hub bearing play) and the disc presses the piston."
And your specialty is mechanics?

I understand the field of specialization here as areas in which I can help, I have experience, etc. I do not have a mechanic diploma. Previously, I gave a job to a "real" mechanic and presented the matter with the brakes. I don't know what they were doing there but after picking up the car it was the same after a week. So I bought the kit and made it myself.

When turning the wheels, the only thing that works around the caliper is the flexible brake hose. The clearance in the hub, which you write about to push the piston in, would have to be such that the car would not pass the inspection. When it stands still, it also lets go of completely. Normally the X-archive is auto.

Thanks for the hints. Cable in the city PLN 45 apiece.

It doesn't have to be a lot of play to push the plunger away while driving when you make a right-left steering wheel movement. This is most noticeable in designs with an adjustable bearing hub. such as fiat125p, old Fords.
It doesn't have to be for you. Write whether the fault has passed after replacing the cable.