Best Lubricant for Brake Yoke & Guide: ATE Plastilube vs CS-90 High-Temperature Grease

Hello,
What is the best lubricant for the yoke and guide?
I am thinking of the ATE Plastilube for the guide and the CS-90 for the high-temperature yoke.
Unless you recommend something better?

Yoke (on the surface of the clamp-block, block-plunger and block-yoke) - ATE plastilube
The pin of the caliper yoke, brake cylinder (generally where rubber) - ate bremszylinder

The schools are different.
I stick to it so as not to lubricate the yoke - the place between the yoke and the pad.
Dust and sand settles in this place and then instead of the grease to help it, it bothers because it turned into an abrasive paste.

So it's better to sand and leave it as it is?

That's my opinion.
You can lubricate only where the guides enter the yokes and the piston, because they are protected against contamination.

Generally

grala1 wrote:

I stick to it so as not to lubricate the yoke - the place between the yoke and the pad.

Not so much abrasive paste, but putty, which hinders the work of the block. The guides are also only those intended for lubrication. However, it is a good habit to lubricate the plunger under the rubber cover.

grala1 wrote:

The schools are different.
I stick to it so as not to lubricate the yoke - the place between the yoke and the pad.
Dust and sand settles in this place and then instead of the grease to help it, it bothers because it turned into an abrasive paste.

Exactly, you mustn't lubricate it with just anything.
Therefore, when repairing the brake system, use the technologies recommended by car manufacturers.

ATE Plastilube - does not catch sand dust - dries when lubricated, it is a kind of dry lubricant. A similar agent is produced by Bosch Textar, etc.

The ATE bremszylinder can be used to lubricate the brake piston and the caliper pin - generally where steel parts are covered with rubber gaskets. Brake fluid resistant. It does not dry out. A similar agent is produced by Bosch Textar, etc.


caliper yoke pin (photo taken from alfacholicy.org)

I use this type of grease for the yokes:
http://tr.bosch-automotive.com/pl/parts_and_a...s_1/lubricant_superfit_1/lubricant_superfit_1

Does not catch dirt, prevents corrosion. In larger capacity, it is equipped with an applicator in the form of a brush. I can see the effects of action on a yearly, two or even three year scale. It actually works for the installation of new covers, pistons and seals, as a colleague wrote above, Ate lard paste. I admit that I do not see the justification for covering the blocks with copper, aluminum or ceramic paste ...
As for the guides, here, if there are no other manufacturer's recommendations (Vito), you can use regular Lt 3s4 or similar grease. It is encapsulated by the so-called harmonica.

I use assembly paste (ceramic or alu). Brake components in contact with the brake fluid of the already mentioned ATE bremszylinder.
Some people use copper paste.

deus.ex.machina wrote:

I use assembly paste (ceramic or alu). Brake components in contact with the brake fluid of the already mentioned ATE bremszylinder.
Some people use copper paste.

Use lubricants that dry after application, creating a "dry" lubricant layer to which dirt does not stick.
By using a lubricant that is sticky all the time, we apply an abrasive paste.

Regarding the copper paste - it must not be used in contact with aluminum parts of the car - because it leads to electrochemical corrosion.

manta wrote:

I do not see any justification for covering the blocks with copper, aluminum or ceramic paste ...

Those with a hard metal surface where they come into contact with the clamp like to squeak when not lubricated.

Use regular machine grease. It repels moisture quite well. Pay attention to the rubber covers so that you do not damage them. If damaged, replace it.

Moderated By manta:

What else?
There are means for this, and it is definitely not machine grease.
Harmful tip.
3.1.11. Don't post messages that add nothing to the discussion. They are misleading, dangerous or do not solve the user's problem.

Warning.

jjkz wrote:

Use lubricants that dry after application, creating a "dry" lubricant layer to which dirt does not stick.
By using a lubricant that is sticky all the time, we apply an abrasive paste.

Regarding the copper paste - it must not be used in contact with aluminum parts of the car - because it leads to electrochemical corrosion.

The abrasive paste is also created by moisture and dust - the lubricant has little effect here.
Most of the yokes and clamps known to me are made of cast steel - you can safely use copper paste - as I wrote before, I mainly use high-temperature ceramic assembly paste with which I have no problems.

deus.ex.machina the world is changing.
In the past, no lubricants were used on the brakes. The caliper piston was lubricated only with brake fluid during assembly.
Later there was the period of copper paste, even the ASO services used it.
Today, the brake system service looks like this http://www.hamulcebosch.pl/downloads/Bosch_tarcze_naprawa_folder_6.pdf

Copper and graphite greases are not suitable for brake yokes!
The lubricants dry out over time and block the yoke guides!
They were good as an "anti-squeak" on the back of the block!

Only silicone paste should be used for this type of application!
I use Kleen-Flo and I praise myself! It does the job, and that's it.

You can also use something from the Plastilube series from ate, textara, tres etc etc, all these pastes are the same, only the print on the box is different. Except that, as I say, silicone grease definitely wins!

For pistons and only for them! there is also the special ATE bremszylinder paste. Jsst based on some soap, a phenomenon when it comes to mounting pistons to the caliper!

Alternatively, you can always fold a brake fluid caliper, but why are there definitely more efficient replacements?

With such lubricated brakes, you can forget about servicing them for several years, of course when changing the brake fluid every two years, or after checking with appropriate equipment.

So much for the topic, Regards

Again then - I use ceramic mounting paste, there are some who use copper paste (which cannot be used with aluminum alloys).
In copper paste, it does not lubricate grease, but copper - the grease serves only as a medium in which copper particles are suspended - if someone has reservations that the grease will catch particles, he can always wipe off the excess grease - in the case of, for example, copper paste, it will be easy to see copper particles they settle in the pores of the material.

I will add with full agreement - there are specialized lubricants for these applications and they are generally the best.

For lubrication block-yoke, block-clamp, block-piston metal-free paste, e.g. Wurth or Berner with a special applicator, for yoke pins (only those that should be lubricated) Bosch Super Fit or something like that (I would have to see the exact name in the workshop) a slightly thinner grease for pistons, e.g. Berner, specially designed for this purpose. I have been using it for years and I have not noticed anything like abrasive paste. However, during the next replacement, it is easy to collect the residue from the yoke, in addition, the surface under it does not "swell", which prevents the block from jamming in the yoke. All chemistry on the head and as intended.

And if, for example, a regular customer comes to replace the blocks, I know that I can press him without a queue and it will not take more than 20 minutes, because I will not have to clean, scrape, regenerate, etc.

Hello.
And with Teflon grease in a spray can I treat the pads at the ends that go to these plates and the plates themselves?
It is dry and not sticky. Wiko companies.
Patient Zafira b.
Because my blocks are blocking in these plates.
And I will treat them with a file so that there is minimal play.