60cm Continuous Heating Induction Hob: Models, Brands, 4 Cooking Zones, Budget-friendly Options

I am looking for an induction hob that will heat continuously, not pulsating. I do not know in which models this solution is used. I need a 60 cm hob, preferably with 4 cooking zones. While searching, I was browsing the opinions about the equipment and only through these opinions I found out that there is such a strange thing. I do not investigate whether it is better for technological reasons, I find it troublesome from the usability side, so please let me know which of the models available on the market work in a continuous system at most or all power levels? The price also matters .

Hello.

The induction cooker charges from 30A upwards. With continuous work, your pocket will feel it significantly.
I wonder why do you need such power?

So far, I have used gas stoves and I am used to the fact that when I want to fry something, I turn on the gas strongly, and for example when cooking broth - minimally. I would like cooking to be uniform. For example, gelatine cannot be brought to the boil, so I would like to be able to heat it longer on low power. I have read many opinions that during pulse work, the food gurgles and stops - gurgles - stops over and over again. And that doesn't suit me.

I understand you don't have access to gas now.
I suggest calling the helplines.
They are happy to provide various types of answers there.

I have never used an induction cooker myself.
I read a while on the net and the heating control (why?) Consists in turning the induction on and off.
I thought it was a power cut, and here's a surprise.
Let me know when you find one that limits the power.

Did you find a CD that works continuously on all powers?

Unfortunately not:/. On another forum, I was recommended one whirlpool, which works continuously from power level 4 [I can't remember which forum, so I have no way to check] and I bought this one too. Drink for water - from 1 to 5 there is a pulse work. What to do: p.

I finally bought Amica IN6144IWSTK.
Unfortunately, it works in pulses, but fortunately it does not cause any problems when cooking. I used to have a freestanding two-burner Chinese induction where pulse cooking was just a pain in the ass, at low levels during the "pulse" it was almost bubbling. It's not here, cooking is almost continuous.
After all, the operation and operation are not Samsung's - both the response to the touch and the real cooking with a string at low levels.
I didn't take my Samsung just because of a bad failure rate experience.

Until now, I used a Samsung CTN 364N 006 hob and this one worked continuously with the power of 1-15, you could cook from 1 very gently but noticeably, ie "bubbling" smaller or larger - like on a gas stove. There was no that ticking or throbbing. The only drawback is the power distribution on the same side, which meant using actually one square on the right and left. You get used to it, although sometimes I needed to cook three dishes and it was impossible.
When the stove broke, I was looking for something new and I was not even aware that induction could work differently, i.e. in the so-called pulsating. I bought Amica PI 6544 STK because it was so pretty. And here it started. He cooks very quickly, in all fields, and that's so many pluses. Even with just one field, it cooks-stops-cooks-stops. Power 1 to 3 could not be used, because you practically cannot see cooking, 4 to 7 are larger or smaller intervals, and these "gurgling" either too weak or too strong. You can get neuroses !!!!!
I started looking for info which cookers work on the principle of smooth reduction of power and I have not found one anywhere - an accident? I know from one of the users that Elektrolux 6340 works like my Samsung and that's it.
I fell for all these positive opinions. Is it simply that people do not bother or is I too demanding? Surely FAILED and discourage cooking.

We bought an Amica 58IES2.320HTab (Xv) induction cooker and it also pulses. Only at the power level of 9 it does not pulsate, but it is already a very high power, so it is not suitable for anything other than boiling water in the kettle.

On the other hand, with friends who have a 2-year BOSH disc (with a Combi and boost), with a power of 6 and more, it does not pulsate at 5 and less. I do not know how this board regulates the power on levels 6 and more, but as you can see it can be done. I am writing this because I have read a lot of opinions of "experts" who say that not every disc works pulsating at any power - not only that, they write that there are no discs that do not work pulsating at all.

Maybe the producers simply switched the entire power control to the pulse to save on the production costs of the electronic board control system. Perhaps a more energy-saving board was also chosen, and the pulse on almost all power makes it possible. Unfortunately, when cooking it does not look so colorful anymore, and yet the equipment should be for a person, not a person for the equipment, so that he would have to miracle, otherwise cooking is not as it should be.

I also look around for the kitchen without pulsing, or with well-resolved pulsing (further explain).
I agree with some of the speakers: pulsations can be bothersome. In my case, sometimes when I cook small amounts of food, the boiling is so violent in the "heating" cycle that it starts to boil over, then in the "pause" cycle it completely stops cooking, and so on. Perhaps, in other devices, the manufacturers have implemented the pulsation so often (quick cycle changes) that it is not so disturbing. For example, for me, there are evidently too long heating breaks on level 1, ie too long "break" cycles. In addition, there is too much difference, for example, between level 1 (it is used to heat and keep warm) and level 2: at 1 the dish usually stops cooking at all (even in the "heating" cycle), and at 2 it sometimes boils over (a one would like it to be gentle cooking).
I will give some information about the power regulation on my induction, but it is a portable single-field cooker (Ikea Tillreda), not a built-in cooker. However, I think this gives an idea of one possible way of regulation. Maybe as more people add their data here, it will be possible to find out which manufacturers have a better solution for smooth power regulation. And is it possible to solve the power regulation in pulses so that it is not negatively felt while cooking?
At the beginning I will explain that the given heating powers are average and were measured for one specific dish, because I noticed that when using larger pots, the cooker heats with a higher power than with small pots, with the same heating level set. On the other hand, the times of the heating and pause cycles (with pulsation) do not depend on the type or size of the pan.
I determined the power on the basis of the measurement with a wattmeter connected to the power socket. The oven has 9 heating levels.
Level 9 (max) - continuous consumption 1820 W
Level 8 - continuous consumption 1520 W
Level 7 - 1360 W continuous consumption
Level 6 - continuous consumption 1190 W
Level 5 - 1050 W continuous consumption
Level 4 - pulsation, heating 7 s with power 1050 W, 2 s pause
Level 3 - pulsation, heating 7 s with power 820 W, pause 3 s
Level 2 - pulsation, heating 7 s with power 820 W, pause 13 s
Level 1 - pulsation, heating 7 s with power 820 W, pause 32 s
(break = 0 W, no power consumption at all)

Each induction will flash because it is impossible to obtain a constant low cooking power.
These better induction hobs will only pulse at lower power levels, which is from 1 to 3.4.5 - depending on the model.
Worse induction will pulse higher, even up to 7.8 power level.
That is why the market is now flooded with cheap pulsating records. The only solution is to buy a more expensive induction (1500-2000 PLN) or some used, older type, which were much more solid and heated with continuous power from the 4th power level.

Another solution is to buy induction with a wide range of power regulation, for example Samsung has 15 levels or Beko 19 levels - of course, we are talking about models from the price range of PLN 1500+.

I currently have a Samsung nz84j9770ek and it only pulses up to the 5th power level and has 15 power levels. This pulse heating here looks like I have 5 level and on a 500 watt meter, which drops to 300 watt and heats 500 watt again and drops, so a slightly different solution, there is no typical pause here and heating for a second with full power that everything is bubbling . In addition, it has a fairly low power, at the 15th power level (~ 1-1.3 kW depending on the size of the field), so it is perfect for an apartment for phase 1. The booster boosts the power to around 1.5-1.8 kW and over 2 kW on the largest burner.

I know that the old topic, but maybe something has changed in this regard?
By the way, a question for @Barthezz1976, since in 2015 a few posts above (https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic3096643.html#16799315) the user gave the model of the board that worked continuously at all levels, why in 2018 is it not possible anymore?

In 2019 I bought an Amica 614IES3.374TsDpHbQ (XxL) induction cooker, it is connected to a 3-phase power supply and also pulses up to 8. I know a person who bought a slightly newer model (black frames on the front) and it also pulsates at 230V. Additionally, when turned off, it heats up for a few seconds before turning off. As someone wrote above - it was good and this applies not only to household appliances but also to a whole lot of other products. Unless they are much more expensive and someone tests them.

There is a series of induction cookers with the possibility of precise temperature setting.
You can look for cookers from the "Samsung Chef Collection" series.
There is also a model of an induction hob with a thermo probe, e.g. ELECTROLUX EIS6648
You can go to a Bosch induction hob from the PXV series, for example: PXV975DC1E

You have to get used to it - it will not be cheap and you pay a lot for additional functions.

It must be remembered that such an induction cooker consumes more electricity
and the connection powers are min. 10kW to 15kW depending on specification.
4mm? wires and 25A overcurrent protection when connected to 2 phases.

So there is a possibility. In fact, I would even prefer to pay more for a stove that will be better, although I do not see SCC series cookers, only plates. Anyway, the installation is of course on 4mm? wires, in case I want to change the cooker.

Since the post I wrote in 2018 (it was about pulsating a portable induction hob, one hotplate), I am richer in the experience of a real "4-burner" Electrolux hob (one of the more fancy models, but not the top one yet).
This is a completely different story. For those who are concerned only with ordinary cooking, I can assure you that the pulsation of this type of cooker is so effective that it does not bother you at all. Contrary to the portable plate, where the pulsation times (heating state and pause state) ranged from 7 to even 30 seconds, this large plate pulsates in 1-2 second cycles. This does not interfere with even cooking (I do not suppose that someone would be bothered by the mere sight that the bubbles in the boiling water / soup intensify and weaken in cycles of approx. 1 second).
The pulsation cycles are almost constant (differences in the range 0.5-2 s), and the power control beyond the pulsation frequency is carried out with the amplitude and the low and high state. I give the pulsation times and powers approximate, because the time delay of the measurement of my wattmeter is not able to accurately indicate the values in cycles at the level of single seconds. I am also not sure if the "burners" are supplied with electricity in square or sinusoidal cycles, or otherwise. In any case, the smallest power (level 1) pulsates, for example, from almost zero (about 2s) to about 60W (about 1s), level 2 from zero (about 2s) to about 200 W (about 1s), step 3 from zero (1s) to 200W (1s), step 4 from zero (1s) to 200W (2s), step 5 from zero (1s) to 260W (2s), step 6 from zero (1s) to 360W (2s) ), step 7 from 50W (1s) to 410W (2s), step 8 from 160W (1s) to 410W (2s), step 9 from 160W (0.5s) to 410W (2s), step 10 from 260W (0 , 5s) to 410W (2s), step 11 WITHOUT PULSING 460W, step 12 - 570W, step 13 - 860W, step 14 - 1400W and finally step "P" (power booster) 2600W.
Really, this album cured me of any worries about the pulsation technique: it is not the pulsation itself that is the problem, but its proper tuning.
In addition, this hob is, in my opinion and my wife too, quite precise in the dosage of power, meaning: you can choose the power level in this way (usually it is a level 2, 3 or 4 - depending on the type / size of the pot and what is in it) that the covered dishes cook for a long time, e.g. with only a slight boil, without the contents throwing out of the pot, without the lid jumping. We are really delighted with this to this day (after a change of about 2 years ago from an ordinary gas cooker to an induction cooker).
Finally, I would like to add that the description applies only to the heating of a single field, or one field on the left and right. When the power limit is exceeded (I have a separate limit for the right and left pair of "burners"), there are additional pulsations resulting from the limit of up to 3700W (so-called energy management). Ie. if I turn one of the left fields to any power level and add the second field to the left side, then if I exceed these 3700W in total, the power will be limited to this value. I just can't say exactly how. Certainly pulsating, but whether both fields or just one of them and with what frequency these pulsations, I did not measure.

Believe me, people are still actively reading these old posts. Tell me what plate model do you have?

EIV654
This is my first "real" album, ie I do not count the portable 1-pole, so I cannot provide information by comparing it to another model. However, if you need a general opinion about this album, I can write it on priv, so as not to write about things that differ from the main topic.

@hubig is strange that there are at least two opinions on the price list regarding the problem with the power dosing. I wonder what the chance is that those people found a faulty disc, although in one comment the person informed that Electrolux confirmed such an action.

From the structure of the sentence, I sense a large dose of distrust, I do not know whether it is the opinion on the price or my post. I cannot relate to the opinions in question, because I do not know their content. I believe that the level of anonymity on the electrode is lower than in the case of the opinions of the prices (it is easier to verify the statements), but the degree of professionalism is certainly higher. Even so, these are opinions only and not strictly standardized laboratory measurements, so they may differ. If there is a need to dispel any PARTICULAR doubts, please ask - this is what the forum is for. I will try to answer exactly the defined issue. Because the general slogan "problem with power dosing" can be interpreted in different ways. We can discuss a lot of things here, including posting or transferring outside the forum (for quality reasons) a video with the course of cooking, but according to some strictly defined "experiment" (the size of the pot, the amount of pot in the pot, an indication of which field we are testing, how we heat etc.). In the extreme case, if someone is very interested, we can arrange a self-test (short, not a series of tests for the whole day) - I invite you to my kitchen (Tarnów).

@hubig is just trying to understand why opinions are so extreme. The only thing that comes to my mind is the year the album was produced. Yours was bought in 2018. The oldest opinion is from 2019. Is it possible that the producer's savings caused the disc to behave differently?
I do not need tests because if you like it, it's ok.
The only thing I can understand is the power distribution problem.

Quote:

step 11 WITHOUT PULSING 460W, step 12 - 570W, step 13 - 860W, step 14 - 1400W and finally step "P" (power booster) 2600W.

As you can see, between degrees 11 and 12, the difference is quite small, it increases significantly between degrees 12 and 13 and 14 (let's ignore P).
In other words, between 11 and 12 we have a 23% difference, but between 12 and 13 already 50% to reach 62% between 13 and 14.
Personally, I am able to understand the problem of using this cooker by people who have switched from an ordinary electric or gas cooker where the power dosing in the entire range is relatively smooth. Here, as you can see, we have huge power spikes. For example, I would expect all jumps to be every 10%. Let there be even 16 of these thresholds, it doesn't matter.
Unfortunately, the information you provided does not come from the manual, which is a big downside. If they were there, it would be much easier for us to choose the right albums.

All right. Maybe something was actually changed by the manufacturer.
The power distribution in terms of the size of steps or the number of heating levels is another topic (I think this post is intended for pulsations within a given heating level).
This "power distribution" also puzzled me, because it is kind of non-linear / disproportionate looking at the electric power, but using the board I get the impression that it is practical from the point of view of needs:
use level 1 only to keep the cooked food warm;
levels 2-4 for slow cooking (boiling), covered;
levels 5-10 basically only temporarily as we "go down" from the full power needed to bring the food to the boil, to the state of slow cooking (perhaps someone cooking uncovered at these levels achieves "slow cooking");
levels 11-13 for frying with fats / oils;
levels 14 and P for warming up the pot with its contents (at the beginning of preparing, cooking, frying), and most often for boiling water in the kettle.
I guess this is supposed to work like that, as well as a logarithmic potentiometer to adjust the volume only not exactly logarithmically, but according to some other rule (not necessarily according to a specific or continuous equation)
In contrast, the size of the steps / number of levels is always difficult to determine with "quantified" / digital control. Even in audio devices, the volume controls are differently tuned in this respect, especially in the low adjustment range (e.g. in silence or "sleeping", 2 may be too quiet and 3 too loud, while there are 30 or 40 levels in general)
As for the instructions, unfortunately, as you write, I agree 100%. They do not even provide general information on whether there is continuous or pulse regulation (they also have a problem with answering this question on hotlines). I myself was very stressed before the purchase as it will be with this pulse regulation, but it turned out to be good. With protection and logic, from the very beginning I chose among discs with more power levels, but here too the information is ambiguous, because for a part of society the disc has only 9 power levels, even when they are graded every 0.5, so in fact they have e.g. 17 levels ...

hubig wrote:

With protection and logic, from the very beginning I chose among discs with more power levels, but here too the information is ambiguous, because for a part of society the disc has only 9 power levels, even when they are graded every 0.5, so in fact they have e.g. 17 levels

In exactly the same way I am trying to find something and so far I only find 14 P albums, which is somehow 15 levels, although a friend probably bought an Electrolux with 16 levels two years ago, is it a confirmation of this theory about savings from producers?

I bought a Bosch board probably 12 years ago, it does not pulse. Adjustment from 1-9 always works continuously. I can't tell you the type because I'm not at home. But I guess they don't make them anyway.
Regards

staho46 wrote:

I bought a Bosch board probably 12 years ago

Unfortunately, your information will not help anyone, because the model of this board is probably no longer available for sale. Your post looks like an advertisement to me. You joined four days ago to show off a CD you bought 12 years ago?