Renault / laguna1-2 - Laguna F4R engine leak around the wheel of variable phases

Unfortunately, I do not have good news for the owners of the leak from the area of KZFR in the case of my lagoon ended with the replacement of the head.

It started when I bought Lagune I 1999 a few years ago with a 2.0 F4R 140 HP engine with visible leakage from the timing gear, I thought only replace the sealants and there will be git. The mechanic was replacing the valve timing complete set, pump, belts, ZFR wheel, all seals. I intended to drive a few years and that's why I invested in a car. What astonishment it was when it turned out that when I load the engine there is a leak. Several times we changed the sealants trying different tricks, even glued the sealant, ejected, slipped, bought different dimensions and NOTHING !!!!
I have been struggling with this for a year! Leaks did not give me peace and always appeared when I exceeded 100km / h.
Finally a decision was made, we knock down the heads and everything turned out!
The rollers and their sliding seats had large pits, the damage can be seen in the pictures.


I had to buy different heads which was not easy!
The head cost 1200 PLN and was from a car with low mileage.
Only the head replacement operation had the intended effect!
The leaks have disappeared completely and the engine runs smoothly!
In my opinion, damage occurred for many reasons, the first of which is untimely oil change, the second is poor oil quality, the next is the wear resulting from the teenage age of the car and short-distance operation in the city.
Personally, I think the engine is very successful, dynamic with a high work culture and low fuel consumption in the case of my Lala about 7.2 per 100 HP.

I replaced the complete head, i.e. I bought the whole one with rollers and put it on my post.
Before purchasing, I could view the camshaft bearing seats to avoid similar damage!
I warn you only before choosing the head, I bought it from the same engine as mine but the year 2002 and the tensioner wheel did not fit, we had to choose from a Ford. The thing is, the hole was in a different place.
It seems to me that there is no point in thinking about leaving your old rollers because you never know if the manufacturer has made any slight change and something will not fit!

I still have little hope for those who fight leakage on the shaft with the variable camshaft timing. I just finished this fight myself. And the fight was hard. For several days, several times a day, undressing the timing, putting on, firing over and over again for a few days. Of course, replacing simmering, moving them forward, backward, unscrewing the valve cover, etc. And what ? All the time it pours from the suction roller on the ZFR wheel. For me, it was enough to start the engine for 10 seconds and already a thick stream of oil flowed down the engine block under the ZFR wheel, and the timing belt was all wet with oil. In the evening studying the Internet, and in the morning implementing what I read in the garage. Nothing helped. And I had the last opportunity I found somewhere on the net, and not because the guy who inspired me was liquid, but because he bought a set of engine seals and already mentioned all and left one, so he put it on the suction shaft as the second (actually as the first, because the second one is right for ZFR.) Even the guy was surprised that there are two simmeringings on one roller. So I did like him. On the exhaust shaft I put on a 28x47x5.5 simulator, while on the intake shaft with a ZFR wheel I first put on a 28x47x5.5 seal, which seals the shaft and then the next simmering, the one that seals the ZFR 34X47X5.5 wheel. The groove is so large that two simmerings fall into it. I don't know if it should be this way (as I took it apart, one simmering on each roller), whether it could be, but one thing is certain. I drive a few days and the leak is gone. Maybe it will help someone and you won't have to spend so many days in the garage like me.

Hello colleague, I hope the repair is successful but I have one caveat. In the case of my engine, there were pits on the shaft slide bearings, which will obviously lead to further degradation of the slide. The conclusion is that this is a short repair rather for selling a car.

Earlier I wrote that I replaced the head with a complete roller from another car. However, I was unlucky to entrust this work to a recommended mechanical plant. These mats instead of a timing belt tensioner put a wheel on the bolt. It happened because this head, even though it was identical to the eye for the timing belt tensioner, was in a different place than mine. But this is not the end of clutter, the accessory belt was released incorrectly and the belt grooves moved along the tensioning wheels, which after 6 months led to the break of the alternator belt which unfortunately in the case of Reni is poorly secured and screwed into the shaft which breaks the timing belt and we have collision valves pistons. Another workshop that repaired me replaced all the valves, prepared the heads for assembly and before assembly I was shown small pits on the roller shoes. Leaks from shafts have re-emerged. So the play on the shaft slide bore or the bend of the shaft appeared again.

I gave up and sold my Lagoon with a leaking engine cheaply, of course informing the buyer about it. To this day I remember this car as the most comfortable that I had! The engine was dry except for leaks from the rollers! He smoked a little and had enough power.

Welcome back . And that's why I have been trying to do it personally for some time. Actually, I think since I drove a mondeo to replace the brake discs. They hammered 5 kg into these shields until they crumbled. And I stood by them. And if I wasn't there, what would they do? As for the described problem is: In that year, in June, a month before I went on holiday, the V-belt broke during the ride (the second in two years) and of course pulled it into the timing. The timing did not stop, but had to jump and as a result the engine to work. My engine is 2.0 16V F4R780 (very good, powerful and flexible). I removed the head and all 16 valves to be replaced. Scratches on the cams of the rollers, scratches on the bearings in the head. Because this age car (2000) I decided to do it only to go on vacation. And so I did. I replaced valves, seals, simmering on camshafts, ZFR wheel, head bolts, head gasket. I folded and drove until last week. Somewhere two weeks ago, I was stuck in traffic for 45 minutes and the leak started. I described the rest in the previous post. As for the Lagoon, I don't care about her anymore May she go a few more months, and then either for scrap metal or if I manage to sell it for 1000 zlotys. You praise the driving comfort here. I can't say anything good about it. I do not like the adjustment of the seat, if I set the distance between the seat and the steering wheel, it comes out tight. When it's good, I can't reach my feet with my feet. Hopeless clutch, very hard. Driving in the city is a chore with this clutch. There are still some knocks on the bumps despite the replacement of all rubbers. Going to the sea 650 km I come very tired and sore. Previously, I had a Mondeo MKI and driving comfort was incomparably better than a lagoon. However, I can not say anything bad about the engine. The engine is very flexible and powerful 140 horses. When I was traveling with a friend, he thought I had an automat, because I was in 5th gear throughout the city. Even at a speed of 45-50 km it was possible to drive in fifth gear and even the car accelerated when gas was added. If it wasn't for this clutch would have finished me long ago. Greetings .

I am glad that we can exchange views on our cars! It was a comfortable car for me and my family. Velor inside, full electrics, super-working air conditioning, etc. I have to add that at that time I couldn't afford anything more expensive, I paid 2700 zlotys for 1999. I am aware of the existence of better cars but I switched to Berlingo for her so for me it's a great limousine. In fact, the clutch was terrible, the self-regulator broke down and I made my own cable and the fact was hard, but look, I remember comfort more than a heavy clutch. After the Lagoon I had a Focus 2 1.6TDCI 109HP estate, of course, a completely different car a million times better and now I drive a Mondeo mk4 2L TDCI 163HP daddy or station wagon.

Today, as much as I can and I can do it myself, so many times some pseudos have fooled me that I could write a book about it and I have scripts for TVN Turbo programs for a few years.

Look, these are our cars of similar age. I bought my lagoon 2000 (station wagon) and also with full electrics - all windows, climatronic, cushion, computer, electric mirrors and most importantly - efficient Webasto which works today. However, I have some problems with the climate because for some time the factor escapes and I do not supplement it anymore. And for me, the climate could cool a little more, because in the summer I like a lot of cold. I don't know if there are limbs that cool colder because I didn't have such experiences before, but when I used to fill in Norauto, the guy said that he cools very well. I bought mine for 10,000 and it was imported from Germany with a mileage of 140,000, but it must have had 100,000 more. The engine is very good and apparently withstand 400,000 calmly. I just don't know why they didn't give the camshaft bearings, only the shafts are directly in the head. And why the rollers are not screwed to the head with feet. And just as you want to dismantle only the valve cover, then you will already undress the timing, remove the wheels from the camshafts and only then you can remove the valve flap. At mondeo, I unscrewed the valve flap and was able to watch the fights.

For posterity I will add a few more photos:
The head after removing from the car (after the timing belt has jumped)



Valves removed from the head



Engine block



Planned head with new valves

faveo wrote:

In my opinion, the damage occurred for many reasons

You missed one. The silicone might have clogged something.