Vaillant 200 / 3-5 boiler what other controller can be connected

Colleagues I have a Vaillant VUW PL 200 / 3-5 atmotec combi boiler and I have a colormate 360 controller connected to it. Please advise which other non-company boiler I can connect the controller to, what to pay attention to when choosing to work with this boiler - preferably with the possibility of controlling by Internet. Currently connected with a 2x0.75mm2 two-core cable.

Write something even more about the layout: a boiler in a single-family house or apartment and how big? What do you expect from the driver and why do you want to replace the existing one? Then we will try to help

The boiler is in a single-family house, the controller is defective because it switches the boiler on when it wants. I want to change because I want to control the temperature via the internet and the original is too expensive for me.

An internet-controlled regulator is not cheap either.
You have the original Vaillant eRelax - here is the link to the page link
From what I've seen, you can still use one of the Internet controllers for underfloor heating, but here is the ~ 230V output and you would need to use a relay:
Danfoss / DeviSMART
or
Raychem SENZ WIFI

Thanks for the answer, the original ones are expensive and I am looking for something to replace. I found something like http://allegro.pl/show_item.php?item=6454269000, I received this information from the sales department of this distributor;

"Thank you for your inquiry.
The regulator that will work with the above furnace is the WTS Voltage-free version,
You must add the VOLTAGE-free version when ordering. "

I wonder if he is right ??

And if the stove turned on, just short the two wires that come to the controller (
or maybe short-circuiting them, there is a risk of damage to the furnace).

I don't know this manufacturer. But I would be afraid of the no-name manufacturer, how it will work in a while and how with technical support or possible "hacking" into the WiFi network. Each brand manufacturer has some degree of protection.

When connecting a third-party regulator / thermostat (not Vaillant) you must pay attention to the appropriate connectors. Non-company is connected to the boiler main board where the factory jumper is located (terminals 3-4). Shorting these terminals allows the boiler to work for CO, and opening = blocking the work on CO. This is a potential-free contact, you cannot supply ~ 230V here.
Original Vaillant controllers - such as CalorMatic are connected with a 2-wire cable, but to the E-Bus input on the boiler plate. These wires should not be short-circuited because it will do nothing, and it may cause trouble.

Here I found the driver Devi in promotion - but you must remember that the output there is potential ~ 230V! Waiting for a response from the technical department how to connect it.

Added after 16 [minutes]:

You still have enough Salus company known in Poland and an internet regulator (it also has a potential-free contact) - here link

We'll see what they answer because the driver is cool and inexpensive.
I wonder how it is with these wires and potential-free contact (I'm not an electronics). You write that shorting contacts 3-4 causes the boiler to turn on and at the same time that you can not short-circuit those wires on the controller. From what I read this potential-free output is ordinary the contact is not connected to anything in the device (controller reading) - so in my opinion it closes and opens these wires connected in the controller.
BUT these are just my guesses and I have probably mixed up something.

Here you have a picture of the instructions, what, where and how to connect to the boiler:

According to the description:
"the bridge between terminals 3 and 4 is not removed if a temperature control system is connected or a room temperature control system (continuous control - terminals 7, 8, 9)" - some of the Vaillant controllers were connected with a 3-wire cable for terminals 7-8-9, and newer with a 2-wire cable for terminals +/- E-Bus, both are communication buses with devices and these cables cannot be shorted.
In your case, if you unplug the Vaillant "colormate 360" regulator, you will be able to connect any thermostat / regulator that works on / off, but under terminals 3-4, where the jumper is!
Only, as I wrote, it must be a potential-free contact, i.e. on / off = closed / open. Potential-free is one that does not give any voltage.

In that case, under the driver you proposed, you could plug in a small 230 V relay and it should be fine. And you have already received a response from the distributor.

I got the answer that the technical advisor is on vacation until March 24, so he'll probably give some answer after the weekend

We are waiting, thank you for your interest in this topic.

I'm curious myself

Added after 5 [hours] 7 [minutes]:

I found something like this: NETATMO Smart thermostat
and I must admit that it is amazingly similar to the Vaillant eRELAX
The principle of operation is similar, but not the same. You can see that Vaillant has this product made for itself, because it communicates on the E-BUS data bus, so it controls the heating (and in addition taking into account the weather regulation), but also the hot water tank (you don't need it because you have a boiler 2- functional, which heats the water by flow). This NETATMO thermostat connects in place of the jumper (contacts 3-4 in your place) and its power supply is connected where the boiler power supply ~ 230V LN-PE. After configuration with home WiFi we have the same options as in eRELAX.

This NETATMO is interesting because it will expand the system with electronic thermostatic heads for radiators and it will be possible to connect them to the same application - at least, this is probably what their site says: link

Recently, in Vaillant, I also heard the information that they will soon introduce such a radiator control system - so you can see that they will probably also take with NETATMO.

On the net I saw these NETATMO thermostats for PLN 660-730

fkluma wrote:

In that case, under the driver you proposed, you could plug in a small 230 V relay and it should be fine. And you have already received a response from the distributor.

I just got a reply:
"Smart gives voltage, so a relay is necessary. At Smarta, we decide in the service settings whether to take into account the temperature of the air or the floor, or both."
So we need to give a relay ~ 230V and select the type of regulation according to the air temperature in the service settings.

However, I like this NETATMO more and more. The description also says that it collects weather data from the nearest location. Only application in a language other than Polish

I found something quite a bit expensive but nice https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1qkSkOn4h-A and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IOLF8WQ80PE but they also don't have Polish language.

I also saw NEST, but the price and lack of Polish.

There is also a Honeywell thermostat - the whole set with a boiler relay and an internet gateway: link and here manufacturer's info: link . In the Apple store there is info that the application is in Polish, and on Android I couldn't find the info, but you can download and check.

ls_77 wrote:

you will be able to connect any thermostat / regulator that works on / off, but under terminals 3-4, where the jumper is!
Only, as I wrote, it must be a potential-free contact, i.e. on / off = closed / open. Potential-free is one that does not give any voltage.

So the euroster 2020 or 2000 room regulator can be safely connected to terminals 3 and 4? From what I know it is powered by 2 pcs 1.5V batteries and probably only "open" or "close" the circuit without introducing voltage?
I am asking because my furnace with VRT-390 controller behaves a bit strange and I wanted to check how it will work with the simplest on / off controller.

This is. Terminals 3-4. A short circuit gives a signal to switch on, and an open block blocks heating.

cynamonik wrote:

with VRT-390 controller

Remember that VRT-390 connects to 7-8-9, i.e. to the 24V section, and connectors 3-4 are 230V section, so make all connections or disconnections with the boiler disconnected from the 230V network.
If you want to do tests on connectors 3-4, you don't need any regulator for this, but a simple connector is enough, just like to turn on the light in the room, for example, if it is properly insulated, so that you don't accidentally touch the 230V voltage connectors.

Thank you - the usual on / off controller has been 100% tested
The furnace switches on and ONLY when I program myself, without any suspected "idle" cycles ...
Even after-cooling operation works! Only it is a bit short, about 20-30 seconds.

I committed a new topic:
https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic3452698.html#17166373