Karcher K 2.110 Pressure Washer: Constant Running, Pressure Switch Issue?

The washer worked flawlessly for two seasons. Currently, after connecting the water and switching the selector to ON, the washer does not turn off, i.e. regardless of whether the water intake from the lance is or not - the pump is constantly working. Where can the problem be? In the pressure switch?

I had a similar problem in a small washer. The reason was a dirty check valve at the pump inlet from the water supply side.
It is best to connect the washer to the power supply through a water filter.

RAFAŁ.M wrote:

The reason was a dirty check valve at the pump inlet from the water supply side.

Considering how fast the submersible pump "grows" with iron and manganese, it can be like that. I will check and let you know. Thanks for the tip ...

I looked at the filter sitting in the water connection. It was admittedly a bit contaminated with stone, but after cleaning the washer still does not turn off ... Maybe it is a problem with the pressure switch?

The motors often "fall" in these washers, and specifically the contacts on the commutator break off.

Fidelis wrote:

the pump works all the time

tobiasz86 wrote:

The engines often "fall" in these washers

@ tobiasz86 , please read with understanding.

Fidelis wrote:

Maybe this is a problem with the pressure switch?

This is one of the symptoms.

The engine starts but does not generate pressure? Is that it?
If so and no water leaks are visible, the problem is either the gearbox or the pump is worn out and it is not able to pressurize the device.
Write if it generates pressure and ew at what level it is.

tobiasz86 wrote:

The engine starts but does not generate pressure? Is that it?

Vice versa. After "releasing" the button on the lance, the engine should automatically turn off (due to the increase in pressure) and not turn off. Ie. water from the lance does not fly and the engine is running.

tobiasz86 wrote:

If so and no water leaks are visible, the problem is either the gearbox or the pump is worn out and it is not able to pressurize the device.

There are no leaks. I don't know what the transmission has to do with the shut-off automaton, but the pump as such works without reservations. "Does pressure."

Pump worn out? I used this washer maybe a dozen times for 7 years.

If the pump works and assuming that it constantly generates pressure, then something must happen to it - it returns to power. Does not hold a check valve. The problem is definitely not on the switch side. If the pump were fully functional and the pressure switch was defective, the engine would eventually get stuck or damage the gears.
The fact that the washer is used sporadically does not mean that it should "walk" not this model ...

tobiasz86 wrote:

If the pump were fully functional and the pressure switch was defective, the engine would eventually get stuck or damage the gears.

... and before that the safety valve worked, if I understand correctly. Or so ?

I don't know anything about a safety valve. When the trigger is released, the pressure increases and this leads to the engine starting and can be considered a safety valve. It takes a split second, you get the impression that the trigger turns the engine on and off - it regulates the pressure inside the head.
One hundred damaged k2 hands passed through. In most cases engines fall, especially on newer models, second place cracked pump housing, several damaged gears and only one piece with damaged switch

tobiasz86 wrote:

I don't know anything about a safety valve

I don't know the design of this module. In the offers found in the network "Karcher check valve" (included in the price of the whole washer) I read:
"The valve has two basic functions:
1. Safety valve. The accumulated excessive pressure as a result of damage to the switch is transferred to the water inlet.
2. Smooth pressure control valve. Using the knob you can precisely regulate the pressure transmitted from the head to the outlet (gun).
"
Perhaps the bidder actually describes the operation of the pressure switch (pressure switch) as the functionality of the safety valve. Or I don't understand something.

tobiasz86 wrote:

When the trigger is released, the pressure increases and this leads to the engine starting and can be considered a safety valve.

You see, and I - a layman - would say that this is how a pressure switch works. As for controlling the operation of the hydrophore. Because the safety valve in the nose should have if the engine still works or not. Regardless of the operation of the electronics / electrical system, in emergency mode (above a certain pressure) it mechanically and automatically, reduce the pressure without going into details (as in central heating installations).

This washer was used several times. Each time a few minutes were used to rinse garden furniture or remove dirt from birds. More unfolding than work. That something is happening to her at all is a shame and no excuse for Karcher. Because such a basic model? OKAY. And what? The perfect model for my home requirements, but that does not mean that if basic, it has the right to fall under such intense "consumption". Just like the green "renowned" Bosch product line - when I turned up the drill, I could not be surprised that the German could afford the production of such crap. Unless specifically for our market ... Of course I don't blame you. Such a loose reflection ...

Today I do not have time to start, but I will definitely take her on this season. The whole valve (possibly) needs to be replaced? Maybe some spring is blocked? As it happens in check valves ...

Zerkne tomorrow, and out of curiosity check at home what is made in ...
Often in our supermarkets there are some china or taiwana, I have washers from the uk and there are only italy or germany, it is so green bosch on our market ... something in this we get chlam ...

For a better understanding of the pressure washer, I put a description.
I note that this is a Makita HW130 washer, I think that other companies' solutions are similar.
The washer is connected to the water intake through the filter 1 (strainer), then the water goes to the pump and from it under increased pressure it is pumped through the pressure valve 8 and the check valve to the lance. From the non-return valve, water is also fed through the channel to the chamber 9 to the piston 13 of the pressure valve. The pressure valve consists of a piston 13, a spring and a cone valve 10, which is closed during the operation of the washer. A cone valve 10, M3 thread, is screwed onto the stem 12, the aim being to accurately set on / off. washer.
Fig. A shows the washer during operation. When we close the lance (release the trigger), the pressure will increase in the system, also in chamber 9, the valve will open as shown in fig. B and turn off the washer by disconnecting the switch 17. Opening the valve 10 will cause the water pressure from the pump and the pressure valve to escape through cone valve and channel 11 for water intake. In the chamber 9 and in the pressure hose, the pressure will remain high, which will not allow the washer to turn on, this is prevented by a check valve 16. It can be seen that the washer left in the "stand by" state will occasionally start automatically for a while and this is because the pressure in chamber 9 and the hose will drop, due to leaks. What happens now, when the pressure valve fails (the conical valve closes endlessly, leaking orings, in the washer the stem is cracked at the transition from fi 4mm to fi 3mm). After pressing the trigger 15 lance, the pressure in the chamber 9 drops, the spring closes the valve, the engine starts, the pump generates pressure, water goes to the lance and through a closed cone valve to the outlet through channel 11, as a result of which the lance has low pressure. When we close the lance now, the washer will not be turned off because the pump cannot build pressure in chamber 9 enough to push the pressure valve, because all the water is pushed into the outlet of the network, which is illustrated in Fig. C.
In this condition the washer can work without any damage.

In k2 there is no regulation valve, the ones you write about are for hd washers for a few thousand.
Parts from the site are rather not calculated to buy because they exceed the value.
The only sensible option is to buy the washer alone without the equipment or sell the washer for parts separately and go for new ones.

tobiasz86 wrote:

and out of curiosity check at home what is made in ...

Made in Germany. Where to look at the box or on the nameplate ...

tobiasz86 wrote:

When the trigger is released, the pressure increases and this leads to the engine starting and can be considered a safety valve. It takes a split second, you get the impression that the trigger turns the engine on and off - it regulates the pressure inside the head

Could you indicate which element is responsible for measuring and switching off the pump?



The only switch is the one integrated with the white plug / stem coming out of the housing of the dispenser responsible for sucking in cleaning chemicals.

There is no measurement, it is purely mechanical. You release the gun trigger, the pressure in the pump - actually, between the pump and the gun increases and mechanically pushes the mushroom mentioned by you turning off the engine, after pressing the trigger and thereby reducing the pressure in the system the mushroom returns to the position of starting the engine. Often in cheap washers it happens that the engine starts automatically for a short time, it is caused by a leak in the gun and this is manifested by passing water to the lance when the drain is in the off position or what more often happens water is passed to the supply hose in this case not we have no leakage outside the device. I don't mention broken pumps because it's obvious.
What is your problem with the washer?

tobiasz86 wrote:

What is your problem with the washer?

As I wrote above:

" Currently, after connecting the water and switching the selector to ON, the washer does not turn off, i.e. regardless of whether the water intake from the lance is or not - the pump is constantly working "

Of course, I still used the damaged washer: I just tried to wash so that the water was pumped all the time, i.e. it had an outlet - I had the trigger on the lance. Everything so that the water pressure does not burst the device.
A few days ago it became impossible. One dish turned on the washer, the pump literally worked for a second, then turned off. She didn't react to ON / OFF. I thought I burned the rotor winding. I dismantled the whole thing and check it in turn: where it needs voltage, power switch OK, I connected it briefly and it turns out that the pump also works. And I got rid of it. I turned the whole thing on again and after about a second of work the pump switches off again and the changes on the switch stop responding.

I took a closer look at the pressure switch mechanism and it turned out that the plug had slipped out of the trigger switch and the switch was still OFF. And why after a while the washer turned off, I do not know myself. It also turned out that the straight lance was clogged to such an extent that the sliding stem of the switch pulled out the trigger rod and turned off the washer, but did not retract after the pressure drop. Ot and the whole secret.

The worst thing that I fixed one - the washer's automat works, but wanting to clean the nozzle of the end lance I put a skewer there, which turned out to be too large, and I pushed the nozzle a bit. Well, at the moment the washer washes and only washes - and that's a good word; does not clean as it has so far. Question, whether this yellow nozzle is unscrewed and replaceable, or is the entire end lance replaced (without a gun, of course)?

And the second thing: I noticed a disturbing difference in the color of the stator winding: one winding is golden copper and the other falls in deep red. Is it normal ? (photos of windings attached)

Thanks again for your interest in the case.

Which lance you use, you can repair it by rotating by replacing the entire nozzle / this cone, I don't know what to call it, but the cost is not low, you can't fix it flat, it is adjustable, it is disassembled, but I don't know if you can buy nozzles you would have to ask the service.
Several dozen k2 damaged pieces passed through my hands and there was no winding problem in the government, there was a stator failure, problems with the pump itself, such as cracks, leaks, or transmission between the motor and the pump - unfortunately the plastic modes in one case had a broken switch.

I have a basic one, which is flat. Well, of course - I will buy some used rotary one now. They are at similar prices.

To these faults I would add unbelievably poor quality plastic threads (now changed as I can see to the click fittings) e.g. between the connector coming out of the pump and the nut of the lance hose. I do not know if the reason for the weakness of the thread is vibration or contamination getting there between the threads and after twisting and unscrewing several times. Anyway, this plastic is not suitable for use here. My connection during washing disconnected so often that I finally glued them with resin and I didn't find cheap used ones. And it works ...

thanks