Biawar Kaskada 2 Heater: Intermittent Heating, Fuse Blowing & Water Flow LED Diagnostics

Hello

Over half a year ago I bought a house in which the Biawar Kaskada 2 heater is mounted. In fact, throughout the whole winter-spring period, it heated and worked well, apart from the fact that sometimes it happened to blow the main fuse. Unfortunately, it has not heated water for several days. The red LEDs light up as the water flow increases and the water heats up for a few seconds you can feel it under the tap, but it is cold again in a moment, sometimes even very much.

At the maximum opening of the draw-off valve (in taps or shower) all 4 diodes indicating flow flow light up. After closing the draw-off valves, you can hear a characteristic 2 or 3 times tick in the heater. The heater is currently set on the first level dial according to the manufacturer's recommendation. I tried at level two - no changes.

Where to start searching for a problem?

buffalo222 wrote:

Where to start searching for a problem?

From checking whether you do not need to reset the safety thermostat (on the heating unit).

I unfolded the cascade and at first glance everything is ok. "S" fuses are raised. When setting the hot water, these springs in the picture rise up (only the middle one stands still)

Do you have a diagram inside the cover?

I don't have a schematic. Could someone suggest me where to start looking for a problem?

From disconnecting the power supply, checking the heater resistance, switching on the thermostats.

A friend who is currently taking care of our home said today that she set the heater to 3rd degree and very hot water in the shower is running. When she opened the cabin, the couple broke down. At that time, a friend observed that while hot water was set to the maximum flow, only 2 red LEDs lit on the heater. Before something broke down, boiling water flew in the 2nd stage and all 4 LEDs were on. I don't understand why. Level 3 heats the water, maybe not like boiling water, but it heats and for 2 flies very cold. Maybe you have something in mind that can be damaged?

Hello

Some time has passed, unfortunately winter is coming, could use hot water. The situation is that I live in the countryside and it's hard for a "specialist" here. There was an electrician who did the measurements and all the electronics are fully functional, i.e. the 3rd phase is, heaters, thermostats OK, passages are correct everywhere. The electrician decided that something was happening that after unscrewing the water (taps or shower), these switches on the springs do not rise, i.e. they do not work, so the signal diodes do not turn on and the heating does not work. Regulated the spring tension unfortunately without effect. 100% of all these switches on the springs (there are 5 of them) work because by pressing each of them separately with a screwdriver they all tick and the next LEDs turn on and from what I felt at hand it began to heat which would be logical, the switch with the spring rises so the heating turns on . In any case, it came to the fact that the Lord does not know what next causes these switches not to turn on, i.e. they do not turn on and do not tick only manually.
However, he solved the problem of the heater switching off automatically, i.e. the main "S" fuses from the heater in the switchboard were 16A and were to be 24A.

You haven't arrived yet, what can you do with this heater?

Since the heaters and thermostats are functional and the micro switches on the power change knob are working, the reasons should be sought in the pressure switch assembly. First of all, check if there are correct flows, i.e. clean all strainers (aerators) in the taps, the same applies to any filters in the water system, if any. The pressure switch turns on all heaters only at a certain pressure difference between the water inlet and outlet. Of course, you can adjust the sensitivity of this switch, but you have to do it with a great deal of caution, because incorrect setting may cause the heater to not turn off after turning off the water and / or overheating the water with a minimum flow.

All strainers in the taps were replaced less than a week ago, but to no avail. Apparently, there is a strainer between the heater and the water entrance to the house? After the strainer, there is probably something like a "membrane"

The membrane is just part of the pressure switch. And the filter (strainer) should be on the heater supply - check and clean. The pressure switch contacts should switch in turn as the tap is unscrewed (increasing the flow). If one of them remains open and the water temperature at the maximum flow is insufficient, it should be adjusted on it. Make adjustments with the power supply completely disconnected! If this does not help, replace the pressure switch.

Thanks for the help. I couldn't count on an electrician or plumber here (no response to the phone), so I had to count on myself. Once a goat's death. Heater removed on the table and unfolded. The piston is cleaned and greased. The replaced membrane (it was full of holes) was cleaned, blown and greased. Folded and flashes, all LEDs work (4 on 4) heats richly without any interruptions. Regards

Hello. I come back like a boomerang with a cascade theme. The previous cascade fell after short circuits on the heaters, at which a nearby electrician was buried. I bought a briefly used Cascade 2. Everything was fine (six months) until yesterday. The heater does not heat, I exclude a set of heaters because the pressure switches do not turn on and, despite the spout being ajar to the maximum, the warning lights do not turn on, which for peasant reason means that the heaters do not turn on and ultimately the water does not heat. Entrance strainer cleaned. Can I consider a damaged (perforated membrane)?

Of course. Damage to the membrane will result in the heater not switching on.

With thanks for your help. The diaphragm was damaged and the piston was dirty

Hello. I have the same problem (the stove does not fire) where is the membrane in question? How do I replace it?
greetings