Boiled Water in Central Stove: Insulation and Cable Meltdowns, Temp Discrepancy, Pump Issues

Hello. My brother was burning the stove over the weekend. I set the blower on the controller to set the temperature to 60-70 degrees, burning wet wood with coal, and he filled the entire stove with coal. The water boiled to over 100 degrees. The insulated pipes near the stove all melted and the cables from the controller that were next to the pipes melted. The central heating pump is now going haywire. The temperature on the oven thermometer is 78 and on the controller 60, could the sensor be damaged? Water drips from the Dutchman. It says on the stove that it can work at 90. And it was over 100. Controller - electronics. Blower - MM PLUS wpa120 max flow 255m3/h max pressure 345 Pa 75W Central heating pump 25-40-180 operating range 0.2-3.5m3/h max lifting height 3.8m liquid temperature +2/+110 maximum operating pressure 10bar power on 35/45/65W gears. The pump is in 2nd gear. I still have a warranty for everything, can I return it under warranty if they think it`s my fault, and how much would such a repair under warranty cost? I suspect that the water evaporated so much that there was no water in the pump. Could it have blurred? I`m asking for help because I don`t know anything about it. And when the tube comes out of the stove at the top, it is also wet. The radiators are half warm. What could be damaged at such a temperature? I hope the stove didn`t crack. I am asking for a quick answer

the water boiled off and escaped through the reservoir (overflow), add water to the system so that it overflows, of course, with the pump turned off and the stove turned off. Add water slowly and bleed the system, radiators. check the cable for a short circuit.
Nothing should be damaged, boiling water in coal / fine coal is provided by the manufacturer.

And how did the water boil and the pump ran dry for a while? And why on the controller shows a temperature difference of almost 20 degrees. Earlier, before boiling, there was a difference of about 8 degrees. And if it indicates wrong now, the dimmer will turn on earlier on the controller. And why this pump would be so loud? Is it possible that the tow would somehow overheat and let the water leak?

the pump is cooled with water and without water it could seize,

I think so too. And he will be able to repair it or you need to buy a new one. And comes a little more? Because to pump something, it pumps but growls. Because I have a guarantee for it, but they will probably say it is my fault. And I will see this detector from the controller tomorrow if it has not drowned because about 20 indicates less.

Boiling the water in the installation should not spoil anything.
Instead of "complaints", think about the reason (the real one).
After replacing the pump and a few other things, this can happen again.
You probably have an installation with errors - you should remove them.

Hello
Security, --- security, but when burning at temperatures close to freezing (where the heaters cannot give off the temperature quickly, because the rooms are hot, such cases, unfortunately, happen, especially when the stove is well loaded.
And when it comes to the controller, maybe it "isolated" itself from the pipes, for example with molten insulation and does not "feel" the right temperature.

Well, the detector, I will immediately clean the tube and see. Insulate the cables. But what about this pump, the manufacturer would also predict boiling and that it would run dry. The manufacturer of the stove probably foresaw the pumps? Because it now runs like a motorboat engine. Previously, it was quiet, you could only hear the water, and now you can hear such a quick gosh.

Unfortunately, the plain bearing is seized and there is nothing to come up with here other than replacing the pump or repairing it. Only if it is replaceable, I don't know.
But, in this example, I would see an advantage of mounting the pump on the return. Because there is always water there. Unless we let her out of the system.

The detector works, I just need to insulate it on the tube. And with this pump it will probably be like a friend wrote, because she was always in 2nd gear and she did it. And now the radiators that are farthest from the stove were half as cold as the one closer and connected separately. And when I switched to 3, they are warmer, the pump will probably be seized and weakened. And comes such a blurry little if it will fall to the end. Because only I will be able to buy a second one in a week. I don't think there will be any short circuit on the driver. And the controller was on the stove and the casing melted from the bottom, but I was looking at the board, it seemed that nothing had flooded, I moved the cables and everything seems to be connected. Now I'm going to make a handle and screw it to the ceiling. And if anyone could see if this pump could be done, please write. So far it comes because it has to.

The pump must be replaced because the insulation of the pump will break and you will get an electric shock. I had a similar symptom with the pump, but not after boiling it, but during normal operation it died. I made a complaint and after 4 months they sent me a new one.

Well, the pump will be unscrewed tomorrow and before the warranty can be done. Will I smoke without a pump, will it go through the valve? And I also have a question, how did I pour out the water to replace the gasket. I poured water, connected the controller to the power supply, but I did not turn it on (it was in this standby mode) and the central heating pump was working. I don't think it should be walking when the controller is turned off

And what did it hurt? The pump cannot run without water. If she keeps walking on a cold stove, she will be fine. It will cool down the heaters. The installation can "walk" without a pump, provided it is well-made "bleeds" in the pipes!

I found out from one plumber that after boiling the water so much, the ball valve should be replaced because the ball had melted, is that true? And how much can such a valve cost.

the ball could not melt because it is metal, at most Teflon which seals the ball. If it flies through the valve, it opens and closes, i.e. water passes through it, it is ok. The cost depends on the diameter, manufacturer and quality per inch, you can pay about PLN 15 to PLN 100
Before you take the pump, unscrew it and clean it, maybe some muck has entered the impeller.
I suspect that you do not have a system adapted to gravity work, so a pump will be required. Buy a used one for the time of target repair or a new one, after all, 25-40 of the property does not cost and you can buy a new one for about PLN 100 and Grundfos for PLN 220

Previously, the central one walked by gravity, without any pump. Only after moving the stove did I put the pump on. And if I open the pump, I will lose my warranty, some write that the pump may seize in normal operation on water, then maybe they will consider it as a warranty. And if I had to buy a pump for what company. It may be like I had WEBERMAN, or maybe the one that praises GRUNDFOS so much. And what is the latter discharging. And what would be the price difference between them, this is probably 25-40-180

Added after 2 [minutes]:

Previously, the central one walked by gravity, without any pump. Only after moving the stove did I put the pump on. And if I open the pump, I will lose my warranty, some write that the pump may seize in normal operation on water, then maybe they will consider it as a warranty. And if I had to buy a pump for what company. It may be like I had WEBERMAN, or maybe the one that praises GRUNDFOS so much. And what is the latter discharging. And what would be the price difference between them, this is probably 25-40-180. In the beginning, he writes exactly everything about the pump.

the best on the market are grundfos and wilo.

Write in Polish because mirzo will delete your post, correct the mistakes because it is impossible to read.

Hello. I have one more problem, the water in the oven at 65 degrees was bubbling up every 2 seconds, and when it reached 80 it stopped, only slightly humming. And this water pump is silent and running quietly. And the water in the overflow vessel should be cold or warm as in radiators, because when the water in the central boils, for example, it does not boil in the vessel.

Hello. If the expansion vessel is on the supply, it is normal that it will be warm, and if the expansion vessel is on the return, it will be cold.

Well, it is on the power supply. The water in the oven is 65 degrees Celsius and the vessel is not ice cold, but cold.

Hello.
65 * this is not the temperature at which to start. height it will take up excess water due to excessive temperature. Therefore, the water temperature does not rise.

Well, it means that it can be cold, because the tubes to the vessel are warm, but cold water in the vessel. At 70, it is also cold. So only when it is boiled, it will be warm in the vessel (but it will not boil). And one more thing about this blistering in the oven, I did when someone wrote that I should add water to the oven to the maximum, but it still did not help, sometimes I went to the bowl as it gurgled, but there was no air coming out of the vessel.

Hello .
In some stoves with a water grate, when burning more strongly, it may happen that temporarily in the grate, the water heats up more and hence the sound of gurgling.
And if the stove is not venting well through the expansion vessel, it may be related to the wrong slopes of the pipes from the stove to the vessel, or in the wrong place where the vessel is connected to the stove.

Well, there were 47 on the stove, I was chewing coal and the blower fired up that in a few minutes it was 72 and it started to boil in the stove and in the dish cold and in the tubes to the dish. It boiled for 3 minutes and stopped. Well, when she was cooking, the heaters were hot. I am afraid that the water in the vessel will not freeze. It probably boils in this water jacket, and doesn't keep up with the flow of the cycle.

Moderated By mirrzo:

I deleted the duplicate entry. Please write without errors

Unfortunately, the expansion vessel is not a heater, but a heater placed in the wrong place, can also freeze (e.g. close to an open door). high frost (-20 *, 30 * on the stove and without a pump). If the tank (expansion vessel) is in a cold place (in the attic), it must be well insulated.
And he does not really understand what cooking is about (72 *), is it not the pump?

Exactly the expansion vessel is in the attic. And the pump works because when it moves you can hear it. But someone wrote that in the furnace, when it fires up, the water may not keep up with it. And I wanted to make sure. Because I had 47 degrees and in 5 minutes it ignited to 75 and the water in the oven was boiling for a few minutes and stopped. And I wanted to see if she was boiling in this water jacket, and if it was normal that she could boil like this. So from what you wrote, I should understand that it has the right to be cold in the vessel and in the pipes to the vessel. Because sometimes there is heat in the pipes and sometimes cold.

2 valves closed for radiators and water, the counter on the stove is set to max, the spray water is hot from the tank and the pump did not pump to the radiators at all, even though it was turned on later, the coal was barely glowing and the temperature in the furnace was 80, 90 on the counter, and the radiators were cold on the counter, the tank is damaged, it is at 0 and I don't know what else

@julka2010 This is how it`s chaotically described. There`s no telling what you did to fix it. I haven`t seen a meter for central heating in a single-family house yet.

No, not chaotically, the stove was fired up to the hilt, with the water and radiator heating valves closed, water was spraying from the safety tank so that it was impossible to get in, then the stove was turned off and the switch on the radiators was turned on after the pump was turned on, something was bubbling in the pipes when the stove, the temperature did not drop for a long time to 80, 90 on the stove.

Well, when it was boiling and it was spraying out of the system, there was probably air in the entire system and it was "bubbling", there was just not enough water...