logo elektroda
logo elektroda
X
logo elektroda

Kospel Twister 3.5 kW Water Heater Issues: No Heat, Low Water Pressure, and Deaeration Fixes

Chlebuś 7233 13
ADVERTISEMENT
Treść została przetłumaczona polish » english Zobacz oryginalną wersję tematu
  • #1 16930619
    Chlebuś
    Level 13  
    Welcome,
    I have had problems with the Kospel Twister 3.5 kW water heater for a long time.
    The device usually did not heat up in the most severe frosts and low water pressure. For the last 2 weeks it has hardly been heated at all. After deaeration, it could literally last several hours. For several days, however, it does not heat up at all. I was venting, cleaning the filter, checking if the voltage was coming, but to no avail. What else could be wrong?
  • ADVERTISEMENT
  • #2 16930671
    retrofood
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl
    1. Heater break - check continuity with an ohmmeter;
    2. Check the reaction to opening the diaphragm tap and the needle switching the heater contacts on.
  • #3 16930690
    osiniak75
    Level 35  
    It is evident that the lower switch is turned on, that soot on the housing did not come from the air.
  • ADVERTISEMENT
  • #4 16930691
    stanislaw1954
    Level 43  
    Chlebuś wrote:
    The device usually did not heat up in the most severe frosts and low water pressure.
    And what has heating to frost, or frost for heating, only can only heat less, because water has a lower temperature, especially when it is from a well, but also in summer water from a good well can also have a low temperature. Low pressure has the effect of opening the flow valve, which is associated with the switch on the heaters. This may be the reason for the lack of heating.
  • #5 16930710
    retrofood
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl
    osiniak75 wrote:
    It is evident that the lower switch is turned on, that soot on the housing did not come from the air.

    Apparently so, but in the third photo (housing) the burn is next to the screw hole, and this is closer to the top. Something is wrong here, although in fact there are burn marks on the bottom one.

    Added after 1 [minutes]:

    stanislaw1954 wrote:
    Chlebuś wrote:
    The device usually did not heat up in the most severe frosts and low water pressure.
    And what has heating to frost, or frost for heating, only can only heat less, because water has a lower temperature, especially when it is from a well, but also in summer water from a good well can also have a low temperature. Low pressure has the effect of opening the flow valve, which is associated with the switch on the heaters. This may be the reason for the lack of heating.


    Exactly. In addition, the lack of heating could be caused by damage to the heater power control system. For example in microswitches.
  • #6 16930731
    Chlebuś
    Level 13  
    retrofood wrote:
    1. Heater break - check continuity with an ohmmeter;
    2. Check the reaction to opening the diaphragm tap and the needle switching the heater contacts on.


    I mean how to apply a multimeter?

    stanislaw1954 wrote:

    And what has heating to frost, or frost for heating, only can only heat less, because water has a lower temperature, especially when it is from a well, but also in summer water from a good well can also have a low temperature. Low pressure has the effect of opening the flow valve, which is associated with the switch on the heaters. This may be the reason for the lack of heating.


    This switch that activates the heater is the black element?
  • #7 16930739
    osiniak75
    Level 35  
    The screw holes are on both sides, the blackened housing is centrally opposite the lower end switch.
  • #8 16930740
    Chlebuś
    Level 13  
    retrofood wrote:
    Apparently so, but in the third photo (housing) the burn is next to the screw hole, and this is closer to the top. Something is wrong here, although in fact there are burn marks on the bottom one.


    The case is upside down in this photo. The burnout is below the mounting hole on the right side of the housing (looking directly at the heater)
  • ADVERTISEMENT
  • #9 16930760
    stanislaw1954
    Level 43  
    Chlebuś wrote:
    This switch that activates the heater is the black element?
    The black round element activates the contacts of the heater switches. The flow of water causes the needle to move, which in turn turns on the switches on the right side.
  • #10 16930783
    Chlebuś
    Level 13  
    So only the replacement of the entire heating unit can help?
  • ADVERTISEMENT
  • #11 16930822
    mawerix123
    Level 39  
    Chlebuś wrote:
    So only the replacement of the entire heating unit can help?


    Maybe not necessarily, but it must be checked by a person with the appropriate knowledge, burning a microswitch is not accidental, it is either the cause or effect of the defect. the cost of the microswitch itself is about PLN 20, and if something more, the repair may not be profitable.
  • #12 16930872
    retrofood
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl
    Chlebuś wrote:
    So only the replacement of the entire heating unit can help?

    Calmly! While writing the first post, I haven't noticed this burn-in yet, maybe it's just a microswitch. But the reason for its destruction must be found. Factory defect or something else? This must be examined and the rest of the elements must be checked.

    PS. While writing this, I didn't see the post above, but we think the same.
  • #13 16933463
    Chlebuś
    Level 13  
    Gentlemen, today I'm back, I turn on the hot water and ... after 5 seconds the light comes on and the heater starts to heat up. I can not understand it.
  • #14 16935954
    Chlebuś
    Level 13  
    I bought a used similar heater and moved the entire heating unit. It works. Thanks for helping everyone interested.

Topic summary

The Kospel Twister 3.5 kW water heater is experiencing issues with heating, particularly in low temperatures and low water pressure conditions. Users suggest checking the continuity of the heater with an ohmmeter, inspecting the diaphragm tap, and examining the microswitches for damage. Observations indicate potential burn marks near the switch, which may indicate a malfunction in the power control system. A user reported intermittent functionality, where the heater would start heating after a brief delay. Ultimately, one user resolved their issue by replacing the entire heating unit from a similar used heater, indicating that component replacement may be necessary for persistent problems.
Summary generated by the language model.
ADVERTISEMENT