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Kospel Twister 3.5 kW Water Heater Issues: No Heat, Low Water Pressure, and Deaeration Fixes

Chlebuś 8001 13
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  • #1 16930619
    Chlebuś
    Level 13  
    Posts: 213
    Help: 5
    Rate: 16
    Welcome,
    I have had problems with the Kospel Twister 3.5 kW water heater for a long time.
    The device usually did not heat up in the most severe frosts and low water pressure. For the last 2 weeks it has hardly been heated at all. After deaeration, it could literally last several hours. For several days, however, it does not heat up at all. I was venting, cleaning the filter, checking if the voltage was coming, but to no avail. What else could be wrong?
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  • #2 16930671
    retrofood
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl  
    Posts: 31317
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    1. Heater break - check continuity with an ohmmeter;
    2. Check the reaction to opening the diaphragm tap and the needle switching the heater contacts on.
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  • #3 16930690
    osiniak75
    Level 35  
    Posts: 2075
    Help: 350
    Rate: 542
    It is evident that the lower switch is turned on, that soot on the housing did not come from the air.
  • #4 16930691
    stanislaw1954
    Level 43  
    Posts: 15002
    Help: 1981
    Rate: 4560
    Chlebuś wrote:
    The device usually did not heat up in the most severe frosts and low water pressure.
    And what has heating to frost, or frost for heating, only can only heat less, because water has a lower temperature, especially when it is from a well, but also in summer water from a good well can also have a low temperature. Low pressure has the effect of opening the flow valve, which is associated with the switch on the heaters. This may be the reason for the lack of heating.
  • #5 16930710
    retrofood
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl  
    Posts: 31317
    Help: 1140
    Rate: 4781
    osiniak75 wrote:
    It is evident that the lower switch is turned on, that soot on the housing did not come from the air.

    Apparently so, but in the third photo (housing) the burn is next to the screw hole, and this is closer to the top. Something is wrong here, although in fact there are burn marks on the bottom one.

    Added after 1 [minutes]:

    stanislaw1954 wrote:
    Chlebuś wrote:
    The device usually did not heat up in the most severe frosts and low water pressure.
    And what has heating to frost, or frost for heating, only can only heat less, because water has a lower temperature, especially when it is from a well, but also in summer water from a good well can also have a low temperature. Low pressure has the effect of opening the flow valve, which is associated with the switch on the heaters. This may be the reason for the lack of heating.


    Exactly. In addition, the lack of heating could be caused by damage to the heater power control system. For example in microswitches.
  • #6 16930731
    Chlebuś
    Level 13  
    Posts: 213
    Help: 5
    Rate: 16
    retrofood wrote:
    1. Heater break - check continuity with an ohmmeter;
    2. Check the reaction to opening the diaphragm tap and the needle switching the heater contacts on.


    I mean how to apply a multimeter?

    stanislaw1954 wrote:

    And what has heating to frost, or frost for heating, only can only heat less, because water has a lower temperature, especially when it is from a well, but also in summer water from a good well can also have a low temperature. Low pressure has the effect of opening the flow valve, which is associated with the switch on the heaters. This may be the reason for the lack of heating.


    This switch that activates the heater is the black element?
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  • #7 16930739
    osiniak75
    Level 35  
    Posts: 2075
    Help: 350
    Rate: 542
    The screw holes are on both sides, the blackened housing is centrally opposite the lower end switch.
  • #8 16930740
    Chlebuś
    Level 13  
    Posts: 213
    Help: 5
    Rate: 16
    retrofood wrote:
    Apparently so, but in the third photo (housing) the burn is next to the screw hole, and this is closer to the top. Something is wrong here, although in fact there are burn marks on the bottom one.


    The case is upside down in this photo. The burnout is below the mounting hole on the right side of the housing (looking directly at the heater)
  • #9 16930760
    stanislaw1954
    Level 43  
    Posts: 15002
    Help: 1981
    Rate: 4560
    Chlebuś wrote:
    This switch that activates the heater is the black element?
    The black round element activates the contacts of the heater switches. The flow of water causes the needle to move, which in turn turns on the switches on the right side.
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  • #10 16930783
    Chlebuś
    Level 13  
    Posts: 213
    Help: 5
    Rate: 16
    So only the replacement of the entire heating unit can help?
  • #11 16930822
    mawerix123
    Level 39  
    Posts: 4143
    Help: 482
    Rate: 949
    Chlebuś wrote:
    So only the replacement of the entire heating unit can help?


    Maybe not necessarily, but it must be checked by a person with the appropriate knowledge, burning a microswitch is not accidental, it is either the cause or effect of the defect. the cost of the microswitch itself is about PLN 20, and if something more, the repair may not be profitable.
  • #12 16930872
    retrofood
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl  
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    Chlebuś wrote:
    So only the replacement of the entire heating unit can help?

    Calmly! While writing the first post, I haven't noticed this burn-in yet, maybe it's just a microswitch. But the reason for its destruction must be found. Factory defect or something else? This must be examined and the rest of the elements must be checked.

    PS. While writing this, I didn't see the post above, but we think the same.
  • #13 16933463
    Chlebuś
    Level 13  
    Posts: 213
    Help: 5
    Rate: 16
    Gentlemen, today I'm back, I turn on the hot water and ... after 5 seconds the light comes on and the heater starts to heat up. I can not understand it.
  • #14 16935954
    Chlebuś
    Level 13  
    Posts: 213
    Help: 5
    Rate: 16
    I bought a used similar heater and moved the entire heating unit. It works. Thanks for helping everyone interested.
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Topic summary

✨ The Kospel Twister 3.5 kW water heater is experiencing issues with heating, particularly in low temperatures and low water pressure conditions. Users suggest checking the continuity of the heater with an ohmmeter, inspecting the diaphragm tap, and examining the microswitches for damage. Observations indicate potential burn marks near the switch, which may indicate a malfunction in the power control system. A user reported intermittent functionality, where the heater would start heating after a brief delay. Ultimately, one user resolved their issue by replacing the entire heating unit from a similar used heater, indicating that component replacement may be necessary for persistent problems.
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FAQ

TL;DR: Typical fix for a no‑heat Kospel Twister is replacing a burnt flow microswitch (~PLN 20). “burning a microswitch is not accidental.” [Elektroda, mawerix123, post #16930822]

Why it matters: This FAQ helps DIYers diagnose no‑heat and low‑pressure faults fast, before costly part swaps.

Quick Facts

Why won’t my Kospel Twister heat when water pressure is low?

Low pressure may not open the flow valve enough to trigger the heater’s switches. Without switch engagement, heating stays off. Restore adequate pressure or reduce flow restrictions before deeper diagnostics. This symptom directly links to the unit’s flow‑activated switching. [Elektroda, stanislaw1954, post #16930691]

What multimeter checks should I start with on a no‑heat Twister?

Start with a continuity check of the heating element using an ohmmeter. Then verify the unit reacts when you open the diaphragm tap and that the needle actually switches the heater contacts. These two checks isolate many simple electrical and flow faults. [Elektroda, retrofood, post #16930671]

Which part is the black switch and what does it do?

The black round element is the flow actuator that drives the heater’s microswitch contacts. Water flow moves a needle that then toggles the switches on the right side. If flow is insufficient or the switch is damaged, the heater will not energize. [Elektroda, stanislaw1954, post #16930760]

Could a failed microswitch explain soot or burn marks on the housing?

Yes. Users observed burn marks aligned with a lower end switch, and experts flagged power control damage, like a failed microswitch, as a cause. “Lack of heating could be caused by damage to the power control system.” Inspect and replace the microswitch if burnt. [Elektroda, retrofood, post #16930710]

How much does a replacement microswitch cost and is repair worth it?

A microswitch costs about PLN 20. However, a burnt switch is cause or effect. Diagnose the root issue before replacing parts. If more components have failed, full repair might not be economical compared to replacing the assembly. [Elektroda, mawerix123, post #16930822]

Do freezing temperatures affect performance, or is it a red herring?

Colder inlet water during severe frost reduces outlet temperature rise. The heater still works, but water feels cooler. Low pressure is the real trigger that can stop the flow switch and block heating entirely. Address pressure first. [Elektroda, stanislaw1954, post #16930691]

How do I test whether the flow mechanism is engaging?

Open the diaphragm tap and observe whether the needle travels and switches the heater contacts. If the needle does not move or contacts stay open, the flow system or switch needs service. This quick test confirms the hydraulic trigger path. [Elektroda, retrofood, post #16930671]

Can deaeration bring heat back temporarily?

Yes. One user restored heating for several hours after deaeration. Air pockets can block flow actuation, so bleeding helps briefly. If the symptom returns, inspect the microswitch and flow components for underlying faults or partial blockages. [Elektroda, Chlebuś, post #16930619]

Why did my heater suddenly start working after a delay?

Intermittency happens. A user reported the indicator lighting and heat returning after 5 seconds on a later try. That suggests marginal flow actuation or sticky switch contacts. Clean, adjust, or replace the microswitch and verify pressure. [Elektroda, Chlebuś, post #16933463]

Is replacing the whole heating unit a valid fix?

Yes. Swapping a complete heating assembly from a similar heater restored normal operation for the user. This bypassed uncertain component‑level faults. Use an identical or compatible unit and recheck seals and electrical connections. [Elektroda, Chlebuś, post #16935954]

What does soot on the housing usually indicate on this model?

Soot or darkening opposite the lower end switch suggests localized overheating or arcing at that switch. Visual evidence pointed to the lower switch being the affected part. Replace the switch and inspect wiring and terminals for heat damage. [Elektroda, osiniak75, post #16930690]

Where exactly are the burn marks relative to the mounting holes?

Reports note the housing blackened centrally opposite the lower end switch. Screw holes appear on both sides, which can confuse orientation. Focus on the area aligned with the lower switch when inspecting scorch patterns. [Elektroda, osiniak75, post #16930739]

Quick 3‑step: how do I safely troubleshoot no‑heat?

  1. Isolate power, remove cover, and measure heater continuity with an ohmmeter.
  2. Restore water, open the diaphragm tap, and confirm the needle switches contacts.
  3. If no actuation or arcing signs appear, replace the microswitch and retest. [Elektroda, retrofood, post #16930671]

When should I replace instead of repair individual parts?

If the microswitch burned and other components show heat damage, replacement may be uneconomical. One expert advised finding the cause first because a burnt switch can be cause or effect. Consider a complete heating unit swap to save time. [Elektroda, mawerix123, post #16930822]
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