Corolla E11 FL LB Rear Wiper Drive Repair: Full Renovation, Scroll Extraction & Difficulty Turning

The thread will probably develop because I am going to do a full renovation, but at the beginning I am asking for help in extracting the scroll. No gentle prying does not work, and the wheel itself can be turned with difficulty with narrow pliers (one jaw in the crank hole, the other resting on one of the radial ribs.

Pull out the securing on the other side.

http://forum.corollaclub.pl/viewtopic.php?p=553289

Probably worn off. I doubt that the axis will be damaged, sooner the plastic itself.
Maybe heating it in hot water would help.

@ kkknc On the other side there is a steel axle set into the plastic of the housing

@ DriverMSG Many thanks for finding this thread on the Corolla Forum, I was looking for it, but I didn't find it so detailed.

Hot water loosened the wheel so much that the specimen turns easier, but there is no way to remove it. So I bent the plastic in the middle so as to come to the contact of the axle with the wheel and poured a penetrator overnight

There should be a spring wire protection.

Well, it's a step forward, there's nothing like brute force
No hot water or pentrators helped. In the crank hole (the big one above the shaft in the photo) I force a long M8 screw (a hole in the plastic fi 7). Then the screw head in a vice, a mallet fi 4 in one hand and a 1 kg hammer in the other. I rested the mallet centrally on the axle and knocked it lightly with the hammer. Well, the wheel came off
I did not find any spring rings. The axle is sunk into the housing and has a groove halfway up, but in my opinion it is lubricious.

After polishing the corroded axle with 1000 water-based paper, the worm wheel goes in and out without any problems.
Now there will be electrical tests ...

I used to do this engine at home, and I replaced a similar one in the pass or something from VW. Only different mounts, even the same Motorola processor on the module. But back to the topic, when the water came in, I did the sealing. On the axle where the wiper arm is bolted, you have a small O-ring and replace it, without it I had to quickly disassemble the second time For me, there was a short circuit in the motorola 5V power supply. The smd 100nF ceramic capacitor had a short circuit.

grzesiekw12 wrote:

For me, there was a short circuit in the motorola 5V power supply. The smd 100nF ceramic capacitor had a short circuit.

I am returning to temau only now because in the so-called Meanwhile, at 70 km / h, the teeth of the timing chain sprocket (the first case known to my mechanic in history) and I had other priorities for some time.

The wiper gear is made, briefly connected to the laboratory power supply, it turns nicely so it's time for the regulator:



How to check if tooto works on the table? Because I don't have a garage and the aura discourages outdoor testing ...

Adampio wrote:

How to check if tooto works on the table? Because I don't have a garage and the aura discourages outdoor testing ...

Do you have a 12V power supply and a whole motor at home? Or just the driver?

PS> But I sensed that the website will disappear.

DriverMSG wrote:

Do you have a 12V power supply and a whole motor at home? Or just the driver?

I have a power supply (Chinese from sklep.avt.pl, 0-30V / 5A) and a complex and lubricated gear with the motor (also lubricated) and the controller desoldered for cleaning the gear housing.

PS as for the page, I regret it very much ...

Here you have a piece of the schematic, I am not 100% sure if it is for your model - check it.
Corolla E1... [ENG].pdf (1.35 MB)You must be logged in to download this attachment.

Thanks, it's a pity that it's so unreadable and at the source, i.e. in Haynes, where poor scans were inserted
From the analysis of the diagram and the inspection of the motor and controller, it appears that the controller is connected to + and - (ground) and two wires shorted to ground in the handlebar on the steering wheel. Short circuit of one of them activates the wiper permanently and the other one with time intervals.
There are three wires (metal paths) coming from the controller, going to the motor brushes. Two wires go to one brush, one of which is short-circuited / opened with the worm wheel's metal sheet.
There is a MOSFET BUK445 in the controller that gives the mentioned + or - to the non-duplicated wire going to the motor brush.

To clarify, where is + and where is -?

Adampio wrote:

Two such wires go to one brush, one of which is short-circuited / opened with a sheet of the worm wheel.

This is a downside.
Plus gets the plus after switching on the relay.

Well, I know where the plus goes to the motor, so I can connect the whole thing with longer cables and connect it to the power supply.
And this steering (switching on) with a minus from the steering wheel also sounds reasonable?

Adampio wrote:

And this steering (switching on) with a minus from the steering wheel also sounds reasonable?

In Japanese it is normal, they often have negative control.

Well, the next step towards a bright future has already been taken
I will describe the matter for the successors.


The yellow wire visible in the photo, pressed against the ground, causes a constant rotation of the white circle. Removing it from the mass causes the white wheel to spin for a while and always stops in the same position.
When the yellow wire flows to the neighboring pin and "umasi" it, the white circle makes a full turn, stops for 2-3 seconds and then da capo .

And here is one disturbing symptom: when the yellow wire disconnects from the ground, the wheel stops for a moment before the end of the turn once every 3-4 such attempts, and then it starts and definitely stops in the end position. About 2-3 times the wheel did not one such temporary "stop" but two.
Worry about soldering the driver?

The engine is not under load. It can be good.

And the bowel, because I put my arm incorrectly and with the feather raised, everything was fine ala and when I lowered it, it got stuck on the lapel protrusion and died. So I have to take off again
Is there maybe some individual hidden fuse? Because I know the fuses OK and the rest of the car works