Opel Vectra C 2006r 1.8 + LPG - loss of coolant while driving

Hello, I will immediately point out that I have time until 6 am what to do next: / I have Opel VC 2006r FL 1.8 with LPG. for a few months every month maybe two I have to top up some coolant, I topped it the day before yesterday and yet the signal light did not go out so I was driving so fast and every now and again I checked if the liquid was in the middle of the tank. Today, they are going to work at 18:00, something from the mask knocked at me every 10-15 seconds, I thought it was some unevenness on the asphalt, I still saw a small balloon under the hood, very small but still .... I turned the heating on but it blown cold, I went to the side of the gate, opened the mask and there wet under the tank and in it can 2-3cm of liquid as no less. The temperature was not greater than 92-93 degrees on the tip. My wife took me to work because I could not be late and I left my car in a safe place, I finish work at 6 am, my wife will come for me and I want to top up the cold liquid and drive home 9-10km, can I do that? Tomorrow I put my auto into the mechanic so I want to be sure what to do. Fluid control can mean something other than just its level ??

a little bit outside the subject I did not know that in the tank is floating "something" round, I thought that something has broken off the cork but I looked today to another vectra buddy and is the same only that in him in this "circle" floating is a small black plastic in the shape of a letter "v" and for me this small plastic floats apart if it detaches itself from this floating "wheel". is that a sensor? I thought that this control was going crazy and I was driving like this but I would remind you that I knew that the fluid is physically there. Please, give me a quick advice.

Hello. Cooling fluid losses can be from tees connecting the heater with the evaporator and the heater has been inflated due to the lack of refrigerant fluid or from the return hose to the compensating tank breakage of the hose or loosening of its clamp, eg (bands)

PITERRR wrote:

Hello. Cooling fluid losses can be from tees connecting the heater with the evaporator and the heater has been inflated due to the lack of refrigerant fluid or from the return hose to the compensating tank breakage of the hose or loosening of its clamp, eg (bands)

Ok, it's possible, but if after filling the tank with liquid in the morning, I'll get home 9km? 2km city, 7-8km route.

Fill the liquid and see where you have a leak you can just tighten the armband. If the leak will be a big tow truck. Because without cooling you boil the coolant and you can overheat the engine.

Why a tow truck these kilometers will be a wife will pull and it will be without costs. See maybe something broke or loose as a colleague writes and you will diagnose the problem yourself.

greetings

At 6 o'clock in the morning somehow I got to the car in the city, in the tank empty as in the Sahara desert, I added the liquid as needed and moved, for some 3km I stopped at the station to check the level, I lost a lot .... I poured, I went on, behind about 3-4km I stopped again and again I topped up, I was already afraid that I would not get home, I was topping up the last time and somehow I got there. Turning the heating on to the max, it was cold.

At 12 o'clock I go to the car and I see that the fluid is in a state like 6 o'clock so nothing has dropped, during the car's operation the level grew up almost to the cork itself, I slightly opened it, it hissed and the liquid poured out the nozzle which is on top reservoir and sometimes the level was also falling. Under the car a puddle of liquid has formed and now I do not know if it was because it flew a connector or somewhere else. I went to a mechanic's friend, he checked a special tube for coloring, it's not a head, it did not tint from blue to green so the head was ok, the bayonet was ok, the car was not kicking. The car was still going and it was well-heated, as the anger of the fluid did not diminish as it was in the morning when I came back from work. Surprisingly, I made 4 km to warm up the car even though it was already 90 degrees and attention .... it warms up, flies hot until it's nice, maybe the system has somehow vented? Tomorrow I'm going to him and we have to check the tanks under pressure and then we'll see if there is fluid going somewhere, I also check the pressure on the cylinders. I have such a suspicion about the cork from the reservoir, he has such a spring that under pressure is supposed to shirk and the pressure pipe escapes, I think well? Maybe yesterday the stopper got jammed and the pressure got under way and under its influence the liquid was flying out on the hose under the tank because it was wet under it. In spite of everything, the control from the coolant is still on the dashboard. Ports on the bulkhead, tees from lpg dry. I marked the level with a marker on the tank to be able to compare for a while. Now I dread to ride because I do not know the reason why yesterday the liquid disappeared and I have to know: /

1. Does my thought about the cork make sense? is it worth replacing?

2. Under what pressure is it best to check the system tomorrow to not damage anything? What pressure prevails during normal pump operation, how many bars?

Added after 4 [hours] 42 [minutes]:

On the photos, as you can see, something floats in the tank, what role does it play? in addition, I was swimming a small element that probably broke down but I do not know what, maybe from the sensor that can be seen in the tank and maybe that's why now all the time I light up the control from the liquid on the dashboard ??
Tomorrow I check the system under pressure and see if the liquid will go out in some place and put a new stopper.

Today I came back after a car ride under the house, and looked under the hood, the nozzle on the reservoir could hear how the air escapes, I moved the tank slightly upside down and the intensity of this hiss slightly changed or the cork drops too much pressure and probably it is ok, with the old I have not heard anything like this, but in both of them the force I used to push something thin on the spring seemed to be the same.

For the peace of mind I would like to change the fluid and flush the system, does anyone know if a good specialist will connect the coolers or the entire system under the appropriate pressure and check whether there is no air, for example, from a cooler? The tank also needs to be replaced also would combine it with a fluid exchange.

And does the heater ever warm you?

enhanced wrote:

And does the heater ever warm you?

so it works normally now it's heating fest.

So far I can not measure the compression, I signed up for the treatment in a week with the replacement of the tank and pouring a new liquid. Today some mechanic told me that if it was a gasket (even though the test was negative), the wires would swell like hell (and they are not hard) and the fluid would be thrown out because it is very high engine pressure or something (exactly not I remember). Even if it comes out that the pressures are ok, what about the bright tight was the reason for my adventure? I will not let it go until I find out. I read that maybe the lpg from the evaporator get into circulation and there is an increase in pressure that the heater can let go (but then I would have a bag under the upholstery?), I remember that on that day I turned on the accident and the strange smell was from the blow, then the balloon from under the hood you know what it was. Although the climate has nothing to do with the cooling system as I think. So far I drive with a new stopper and it's ok, but it seems to me that the liquid is slowly losing, but it's so little that almost no maybe somewhere on the radiator before it goes out it will evaporate and the ass will not see it. I have to roughly knock it over, etc. and then check if it's gone. I have a longer route for 2-3 weeks and I do not know whether to go or take Corsa B on the route.

So if you do not see where the coolant is leaking, after a longer stop, let it cool - then the liquid will evaporate in the form of a bubble and locate where it leaks. Although you should locate such a flow without locating it, it is rather after a longer stop and not after a ride.

Hello, today at the diagnostic station I replaced the reservoir and the liquid, it turned out that the fan does not turn on (he briefly blinks) when he reaches the right temperature. Could it be a refrigeration sensor or something else? Rather, it was the reason that then the fluid fell out of me, but now I drive all the time, the fluid is not diminishing and it is ok but in a bigger traffic it can be different ...

hetman83 wrote:

it turned out that the fan did not turn on me (it flashes briefly)

So how does it finally fit in? The fan should turn on when the temperature reaches over 90 ° and so it is not the right fan to work.

turns around but only for "short" checked and so normally above 90st it does not go. so that it is only the sensor in the radiator was for replacement, but on clocks over 90st I do not see so it is ok

The temperature will reach 90 degrees and it turns on only briefly so fast that it will cool down the temperature.

Well, they told me that it did not attach, I was in the waiting room (stupid rules that if someone poki us in a cart, you can not be there, something else in a friend in the workshop). I did not know that 90-91 and it should turn on, in case F, he turned on at 96 degrees, I guess.
I will want to replace the sensor in the radiator, I wonder if it can be quickly done quickly so that only a little of the fluid has gone out and quickly screw in a new one and then to the tank a little to top up.

Not these sensors on the radiator switch on at 98st. But I have been circling or switching on. It is better to check at the workshop if it is the fault of the sensor on the radiator and check whether the radiator gets warm because the thermostat is replaced as soon as the engine starts.

The thermostat is ok, the hose comes to him only after a long time it gets warm so it's not him, I know that there is still a temperature sensor at the thermostat in the engine but he probably is responsible for its opening and closing so the diagnosis says it's the one in the radiator.

This is to buy a new substitute for something not to bother the channel, unscrew the old one and screw in a new one, connect the plug and refill the cooling liquid.