logo elektroda
logo elektroda
X
logo elektroda

RENAULT MASTER III: ABS Issue, Rear Wheel Speed Sensor Replacement & Error - Troubleshooting

Maras13a 41769 13
ADVERTISEMENT
Treść została przetłumaczona polish » english Zobacz oryginalną wersję tematu
  • #1 16806040
    Maras13a
    Level 7  
    Posts: 14
    Rate: 10
    Hello, a friend asked me to replace the right rear wheel speed sensor because the wire broke. After the replacement, unfortunately, after driving a dozen or so meters, the ABS indicator lights up. Right rear wheel speed error pops up. When I view the signals at a standstill, all sensors show 0km / h. When driving on this wheel, the speed is 20-600 km / h and on the rest of them, depending on the speed of the vehicle. Then I moved the plug from the left wheel to the right wheel and from the right wheel to the left wheel. I spun the wheels and the distortion was still left on the right rear wheel (even though it was actually a left wheel sensor). So I found the sensors ok and the problem is somewhere else. The next step was to unplug the plug from the abs controller (disconnected battery) and checked the continuity of the wires from the sensor (IT IS), then I checked for a short circuit with other wires or ground (NO). I connected the battery and measured the voltage that goes to the sensors. It turns out that I have 1.76V for the left rear sensor and 0.9V for the right rear. I thought that maybe after the cable was broken, a short circuit could occur and the driver was damaged. A friend from a friend arranged for a driver with a pump with identical number. Unfortunately, after replacing the driver, I still have the same situation. Maybe one of the more experienced colleagues will tell me something?
  • ADVERTISEMENT
  • #2 16806074
    ptr92
    Level 19  
    Posts: 559
    Help: 27
    Rate: 247
    broken lace most likely.
  • ADVERTISEMENT
  • #3 16806107
    Maras13a
    Level 7  
    Posts: 14
    Rate: 10
    ptr92 wrote:
    broken lace most likely.


    but if I hooked up to the sensor on the right wheel, the beam from the left wheel shows approx.
  • #4 16806147
    ptr92
    Level 19  
    Posts: 559
    Help: 27
    Rate: 247
    Maras13a wrote:
    Then I moved the plug from the left wheel to the right wheel and from the right wheel to the left wheel. I spun the wheels and the distortion was still left on the right rear wheel (even though it was actually a left wheel sensor).


    are you sure you didn't mess with the pages?
    I do it by checking one page only. So I focus on the side of the sensor working, i.e. in your case the left back. Then I extend the left rear cable and the harness and connect the right rear sensor to the sensor. I am watching the value on the computer from the left rear sensor. If it is OK, it means crown, sensor OK. If it is wrong, you need to look for a fault in the harness or the controller.
  • #5 16806166
    Maras13a
    Level 7  
    Posts: 14
    Rate: 10
    I did not make a mistake, I connected the harness from the left wheel to the sensor on the right wheel. By turning the right wheel, I had the correct readings in the column - left wheel speed. However, after connecting the beam from the right wheel to the sensor on the left wheel, while turning the left wheel with my hand, it still showed me a speed of 600 km / h.
  • #6 16806222
    ptr92
    Level 19  
    Posts: 559
    Help: 27
    Rate: 247
    that is, you suggest that a possible short circuit in the installation to the plus or ground appears only when turning the wheel? how do you stop rotating, this short circuit disappears? Where is the sense and logic here ;)
    I still say the problem is lace and you messed with the sides on swaps, but let the others comment.
  • #7 16806264
    Maras13a
    Level 7  
    Posts: 14
    Rate: 10
    ptr92 wrote:
    that is, you suggest that a possible short circuit in the installation to the plus or ground appears only when turning the wheel? how do you stop rotating, this short circuit disappears? Where is the sense and logic here ;)
    I still say the problem is lace and you messed with the sides on swaps, but let the others comment.


    as I wrote, I checked each wire from the abs driver to the sensor, whether it has a transition, what resistance it has and whether there are short circuits with others. I specially unplugged the harness from the catches to be able to connect the plug from the sensor on the left wheel to the sensor on the right wheel. With the plug from the right wheel not plugged in, it shows me the speed from the sensor of 655 km / h, while turning the right wheel with my hand, it shows me the speed of the left rear wheel, about 6-8 km / h. I did the test several times, always with the same results. There is no question of confusing the readings. I am more puzzled by the difference in sensor power supply. left wheel 1.76V and right wheel only 0.8V

    Added after 3 [minutes]:

    or maybe someone has schematics for the ABS MASTER III 2.3 DCI PUMP 0265800737 476600053R

    Added after 15 [hours]:

    RENAULT MASTER III: ABS Issue, Rear Wheel Speed Sensor Replacement & Error - Troubleshooting
    Signal preview on the controller
  • ADVERTISEMENT
  • #8 18001424
    szwagier81
    Level 15  
    Posts: 362
    Help: 12
    Rate: 142
    what was the problem? I am struggling with the same.
  • #9 18854270
    AdamOSA
    Level 17  
    Posts: 162
    Help: 20
    Rate: 46
    I had the same thing, space speeds on the left rear wheel.

    After calling the wires from the pump to the sensors, it turned out to be one wire without going to the sensor. I have not exactly located the place, I have replaced the end of the fuel tank to the sensor plug and I have a problem. We make a twisted pair.
  • ADVERTISEMENT
  • #10 19145443
    janko83
    Level 12  
    Posts: 201
    Help: 2
    Rate: 144
    Hello
    I will stick to the topic because I also have a problem with ABS in Renault Master III 2013. The lights are on and the errors are active after reading below:

    RENAULT MASTER III: ABS Issue, Rear Wheel Speed Sensor Replacement & Error - Troubleshooting

    The only thing I can add is there was air in the brake system, but today I vented. When trying to diagnose the brake system, neither system wants to react. A request for help with where to start. The fuses in the cabin and under the hood for the ABS system are ok.
  • #11 19145664
    genek1000
    Level 35  
    Posts: 2292
    Help: 289
    Rate: 1047
    janko83 wrote:
    When trying to diagnose the brake system, neither system wants to react.

    What does that mean because I don't get it?
    How the ABS diagnosis does not react, how did you read the errors?
  • #12 19145708
    janko83
    Level 12  
    Posts: 201
    Help: 2
    Rate: 144
    genek1000 wrote:
    janko83 wrote:
    When trying to diagnose the brake system, neither system wants to react.

    What does that mean because I don't get it?
    How the ABS diagnosis does not react, how did you read the errors?


    Other components generated no signal from the ABS. During "scanning" of all systems, the head connected to the diagn. cannot connect to the brake system.
  • #13 19145810
    genek1000
    Level 35  
    Posts: 2292
    Help: 289
    Rate: 1047
    ABS plug
    2 thick red ones for 1 and 25 pin - + 12V permanent
    2 thick black ones on the 13th and 38th pin - ground
    yellow wire on 32 pin - + 12v power supply after ignition
    26 and 14 pin - CAN - passage through the security module under the hood to the OBD socket
    theoretically there is a diagnosis of K on pin 17 to pin 7 in the OBD socket
  • #14 19145913
    janko83
    Level 12  
    Posts: 201
    Help: 2
    Rate: 144
    Thanks for the hint. Can you ask for a mini diagram for this?

Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around troubleshooting an ABS issue in a Renault Master III after replacing the right rear wheel speed sensor. The user reports that despite the replacement, the ABS indicator lights up, and a right rear wheel speed error persists. Various tests were conducted, including swapping sensor connections and checking wire continuity, but the problem remains unresolved. Other participants suggest potential wiring issues, including short circuits or faulty connections. Additionally, another user shares a similar experience, indicating that a broken wire between the ABS pump and the sensor caused their issue. The conversation also touches on ABS diagnostics and the importance of proper voltage readings at the sensors.
Generated by the language model.

FAQ

TL;DR: ABS ghost speeds up to 655 km/h and uneven sensor supply (1.76 V vs 0.8 V) indicate a rear-harness fault; "it shows me the speed of 655 km/h." [Elektroda, Maras13a, post #16806264]

Why it matters: This FAQ helps Renault Master III owners and techs quickly pinpoint ABS light causes after rear wheel‑speed sensor work.

Quick Facts

What does it mean when a rear wheel shows 600+ km/h and the ABS light comes on?

It signals a corrupted wheel-speed signal, often from wiring. One Master III logged 655 km/h on a rear channel at low speed. That is classic “ghost speed” from a broken or shorted harness, not a mechanical tone ring issue. Verify by comparing side-to-side feeds and doing a guided swap test. [Elektroda, Maras13a, post #16806264]

How do I tell if the sensor or the harness is bad using a swap test?

Work from the known‑good side. Extend the left‑rear harness and plug it into the right‑rear sensor, then read the left‑rear channel. If readings normalize, sensor and crown are fine; the fault lies in the original right‑rear loom or controller path. [Elektroda, ptr92, post #16806147]

What voltage should I see at the rear wheel‑speed sensors?

On a reported Master III case, the left rear feed measured ~1.76 V while the right rear showed ~0.8–0.9 V. A persistent lower feed on one side points to a harness or channel issue, not a good sensor. Record both sides and compare. [Elektroda, Maras13a, post #16806040]

Which ABS pump pins supply power, ground, and diagnostics on Master III?

ABS connector quick map: pins 1 and 25 are permanent +12 V; pins 13 and 38 are grounds; pin 32 is +12 V after ignition; pins 26 and 14 carry CAN; pin 17 is K‑line. “2 thick red ones for 1 and 25 pin - +12V permanent.” [Elektroda, genek1000, post #19145810]

My scanner can’t connect to the ABS. What should I check first?

Confirm ABS power and grounds at the pump connector, then verify ignition feed at pin 32. Check network lines: CAN on pins 26/14 and K‑line on pin 17 to the OBD socket. A missing feed or open network will block diagnostics. [Elektroda, genek1000, post #19145810]

Where does the rear ABS loom commonly fail on Master III?

One fix report found an open circuit between the pump and the sensor, localized between the fuel tank area and the sensor plug. Replacing that section restored normal readings and cleared the fault. [Elektroda, AdamOSA, post #18854270]

Should I use a twisted pair for the wheel‑speed sensor repair?

Yes. The reported repair replaced the damaged section with a twisted pair to maintain signal integrity and reduce noise pickup. “We make a twisted pair.” Keep the twist consistent to the sensor plug. [Elektroda, AdamOSA, post #18854270]

How do I perform a 3‑step harness swap test to isolate the fault?

  1. Identify the channel that reads correctly (e.g., left rear).
  2. Extend that harness and plug it into the opposite sensor.
  3. Read the original channel’s live data while spinning the opposite wheel; normal data implicates the original loom on the faulty side. [Elektroda, ptr92, post #16806147]

Why did the fault stay on the right‑rear even after swapping sensors?

Because the issue isn’t the sensor. A user swapped connectors and still saw distortion tied to the right‑rear channel. That behavior points to a loom or channel feed fault on that side, not the sensor hardware. [Elektroda, Maras13a, post #16806166]

What is CAN bus in this ABS context?

CAN is the two‑wire network the ABS module uses to communicate with the vehicle and scan tools. On Master III, CAN connects through the security module to the OBD socket via ABS pins 26 and 14. Keep these lines intact for diagnostics. [Elektroda, genek1000, post #19145810]

Can low sensor feed voltage trigger the ABS light even when stationary?

Yes. Static readings showed 0 km/h, but once moving, the affected channel produced wild speeds. The same case measured ~0.9 V on the problem side versus ~1.76 V on the other, confirming an electrical fault. [Elektroda, Maras13a, post #16806040]

What additional data points help confirm a wiring fault?

Record live speed while hand‑spinning the wheel. One report saw 6–8 km/h when spinning by hand, yet the faulty channel also spiked to 655 km/h. This combination strengthens the diagnosis of a loom issue. [Elektroda, Maras13a, post #16806264]

After bleeding brakes the ABS lamp remains on—where should I start?

Start with electrical basics at the ABS: permanent +12 V, grounds, and ignition feed. Then check network integrity on CAN pins 26/14 and K‑line at pin 17 to the OBD path. Fix power/comms before deeper hydraulic checks. [Elektroda, genek1000, post #19145810]

What was the actual fix reported by someone with the same problem?

They found one wire had no continuity to the sensor. The solution was to replace the loom section from near the fuel tank to the sensor plug, using a twisted pair. Fault cleared afterward. [Elektroda, AdamOSA, post #18854270]
Generated by the language model.
ADVERTISEMENT