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Audi A4 B6 1.9 TDI 130 km: Coolant Temperature Issues - Thermostat, VAG, Sensor & Heating

stasiu270 10281 13
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  • #1 16882503
    stasiu270
    Level 9  
    Posts: 28
    Rate: 4
    Hello .
    The problem, gentlemen, is that I have a problem with the temperature of the cooling system. Audi, after connecting to the vag, does not show any errors related to the temperature. The indicators in the engine and instruments group in the collant temp field showed results very similar to each other (+ - 2 degrees on a cold and a warm engine). I have a new thermostat fitted.
    Yes, it is.
    The car normally takes a temperature, only the maximum it reaches is about 70 degrees. Warm air flows from the air vents. However, when I turn on the heating to max, it drops still.
    When, for example, stands in a traffic jam, the temperature also drops to about 55-60 degrees. When I start driving, it goes up to 70 and no more.
    I talked to the mechanic and he says that some temperature sensor must be changed.
    I am asking for help where to look for the cause ;)
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  • #2 16882549
    cooltygrysek
    Conditionally unlocked
    Posts: 2813
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    It looks like a leaking thermostat or air in the system. One question because my friend did not write whether the readings under the Vag were the same as the friend wrote here or correct?
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  • #3 16882565
    stasiu270
    Level 9  
    Posts: 28
    Rate: 4
    In the engine group the value shows 69 degrees and instruments 71. I have such values. During a stop, both values drop evenly. The mechanic claims that the temperature sensor on the back of the engine is the reason for this.
    As for the thermostat, it was the same on the old one as it is now on the new one. Nothing left this change.
    I don't know where to look for the reason; (help
  • #4 16882590
    cooltygrysek
    Conditionally unlocked
    Posts: 2813
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    Rate: 530
    There can be several sensors. There are usually two in diezles. Circular in the socket on the cooling hose on the engine block. Unfortunately, these types of sensors often cause problems. First, locate the sensor and measure the voltage on it against ground.
  • #5 16882608
    stasiu270
    Level 9  
    Posts: 28
    Rate: 4
    Tomorrow I will let you know what the values are.
    So it is possible that the temperature sensor could be the reason for this anyway?
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  • #6 16882718
    cooltygrysek
    Conditionally unlocked
    Posts: 2813
    Help: 131
    Rate: 530
    Yes, they can cause a bad temperature reading. The cause is moisture that gets inside through cracked seals on the sensor housing.
  • #7 16890820
    stasiu270
    Level 9  
    Posts: 28
    Rate: 4
    Gentlemen, today I replaced the temperature sensor, the green one on the back of the engine, with a new febi, and it is the same. Warm air flies from the air vents, proportional to the set temperature, and the temperature on the board remains unchanged.
    Can vagiem diagnose the problem further? I just don't know what to do with it; /
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  • #8 16891556
    cooltygrysek
    Conditionally unlocked
    Posts: 2813
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    Rate: 530
    There is one more option. As a rule, there is a voltage stabilizer in the indicator module, you would have to measure the voltage on it. From what I remember it should be 10V. I do not remember how it was in your Audi if the reference voltage to the indicators was from the stabilizer or the computer. Otherwise, you would have to check the ground wires, especially those on the posts. They like to loosen from moisture and vibrations and also become covered with tar.
  • #9 16892224
    stasiu270
    Level 9  
    Posts: 28
    Rate: 4
    Listen, buddy today, when I connected the audi to the vag, I noticed it.
    In the engine block, temp 54
    In instruments temp 47

    Is it not a big difference? I will add that now the indicator in the car shows 50 non-stop and there are no errors related to the temperature.

    I would like to ask for help

    Added after 1 [hours] 52 [minutes]:

    I can't really heat it to 90 degrees in any way. With these 54, as shown by vag, the upper pipe is quite warm and the lower one is definitely cooler and that's quite.
    I called the mechanic, told him all this and he said an interesting thing.
    He says that you can suspect the visko fan that it may be working all the time at high speed. What do you think about it, how could I diagnose it that it works too fast at such an engine temperature of about 50 degrees?
  • #10 16892542
    jano720
    Level 15  
    Posts: 78
    Help: 13
    Rate: 77
    Hello, your problem is that the engine is underheated and the thermostat is responsible only for that.
    Try to clamp the lower hose to the radiator and warm the engine carefully if you are already 90 degrees
    then check how the heating works, if it is weak, it is most likely a rinsing heater.
    Greetings.
  • #11 16892563
    stasiu270
    Level 9  
    Posts: 28
    Rate: 4
    now, when after riding a lot of km on the board I have about 50 degrees, warm air is flowing from the vents. is proportional to the climate control settings. it looks ok at 20 degrees, the air is really warm on the climatronic.

    new thermostat, new temperature sensor. I have no ideas. what do you think about this viscose? /
  • #12 16892639
    jano720
    Level 15  
    Posts: 78
    Help: 13
    Rate: 77
    Hello. If the thermostat is closed, and at 50 degrees it must be closed, then in the absence
    circulating the fluid through the radiator, there is simply nothing to cool
    You have my phone number at the bottom of the post.
  • #13 16892667
    stasiu270
    Level 9  
    Posts: 28
    Rate: 4
    So in your opinion, the thermostat only comes into play anyway?
  • #14 16899915
    cooltygrysek
    Conditionally unlocked
    Posts: 2813
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    jano720 wrote:
    Your problem is that the engine is underheated, and the thermostat is responsible only for that.


    Not necessarily, since my colleague claims that the heating works flawlessly. To find out, you need to put the thermometer into the expansion tank and measure whether the temperature rises above these 50. Rubber hoses of the radiator up to 80'C should remain cold. Something will circulate convection there, but not much. Otherwise, even a new thermostat has the right to let it in due to a poorly fitted gasket or faulty factory assembly. I have already had such a defective one. Another problem may be air in the water system. I understood from the description that my colleague has a problem with incorrect temperature indication than engine underheating. I did not take it into account.

Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around coolant temperature issues in an Audi A4 B6 1.9 TDI 130 km. The user reports that the engine temperature does not exceed 70 degrees Celsius, even with a new thermostat installed. Despite warm air from the vents, the temperature drops significantly when idling or during heavy traffic. Various suggestions are made, including checking for air in the cooling system, verifying the temperature sensor's functionality, and inspecting the voltage stabilizer in the indicator module. The user replaced the temperature sensor but still experiences abnormal readings. Further diagnostics are recommended, including checking the viscous fan operation and ensuring proper circulation in the cooling system.
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FAQ

TL;DR: Start with basics: verify cluster’s 10 V feed ("From what I remember it should be 10V") and compare VAG temps. Sensor, thermostat, air, or viscous fan can mislead the gauge. [Elektroda, cooltygrysek, post #16891556]

Why it matters: Misdiagnosing underheating can waste parts and hide real cooling or instrumentation faults; this FAQ helps Audi A4 B6 1.9 TDI owners trace low coolant readings fast.

Quick Facts

Why does my A4 B6 1.9 TDI sit around 50–70°C and drop at idle?

A leaking thermostat or air in the cooling system can hold the engine below normal temperature. Confirm readings in VAG, then bleed and inspect the thermostat. Prioritize simple checks before chasing electronics. “It looks like a leaking thermostat or air in the system.” [Elektroda, cooltygrysek, post #16882549]

VAG shows Engine 54°C and Instruments 47°C—is that normal?

Small offsets happen, but a 7°C difference is notable. Treat it as a clue to check the sensor circuit and cluster feed. Also watch how both values rise or drop together; parallel changes suggest real cooling behavior, not just a bad gauge. [Elektroda, stasiu270, post #16892224]

Could the coolant temperature sensor cause the low reading?

Yes. Moisture intrusion through cracked sensor seals can cause incorrect readings. Inspect the connector, seal, and wiring. If values fluctuate oddly, substitute a known-good sensor to compare VAG blocks. “Yes, they can cause a bad temperature reading.” [Elektroda, cooltygrysek, post #16882718]

I replaced the green rear sensor and thermostat—issue persists. What next?

Verify the instrument cluster’s 10 V stabilizer/reference and clean main ground points. A weak reference or bad ground skews indications despite good engine temperature. Measure for a steady ~10 V and correct any corrosion or looseness. [Elektroda, cooltygrysek, post #16891556]

How do I confirm true coolant temperature without trusting the gauge?

Place a thermometer in the expansion tank and watch the rise while monitoring hose temperatures. Up to about 80°C, radiator hoses should remain cold if the thermostat is closed. If hoses warm early, coolant may be bypassing. [Elektroda, cooltygrysek, post #16899915]

Could a stuck-on viscous fan keep the engine cold?

Yes. A viscous fan locked at high speed increases cooling even at ~50°C, delaying warm-up. Listen for constant loud fan noise and strong airflow immediately after a cold start to suspect this fault. The mechanic in-thread raised this exact scenario. [Elektroda, stasiu270, post #16892224]

Should the lower radiator hose heat up before 80°C?

No. With a closed thermostat, radiator hoses should stay cold until coolant nears opening temperature. Early hose heating suggests leakage past the thermostat or incorrect assembly. This behavior helps separate thermostat issues from sensor errors. [Elektroda, cooltygrysek, post #16899915]

Quick test: how can I isolate a stuck-open thermostat?

  1. Gently clamp the lower radiator hose.
  2. Warm the engine and watch for a timely climb to 90°C.
  3. Check cabin heat; if it improves, suspect the thermostat or bypass flow and inspect further. [Elektroda, jano720, post #16892542]

Why does the cabin still blow warm air when the gauge reads ~50°C?

The heater core can deliver warm air even when the cluster shows low. In-thread, warm airflow tracked climate settings despite a ~50°C indication. That points to measurement or control issues rather than zero heat production. [Elektroda, stasiu270, post #16892563]

What does “VAG” mean in these readings?

It refers to the diagnostic tool’s measuring blocks. Owners compared Engine and Instruments groups to cross-check coolant temperature. Matching or diverging values help decide between a true thermal issue and a display fault. [Elektroda, stasiu270, post #16882565]

Where is the coolant temperature sensor mentioned here?

One commonly referenced sensor is the green unit on the back of the engine. Replacing it alone may not cure low indicated temperature if other faults persist. Always validate with VAG after replacement. [Elektroda, stasiu270, post #16890820]

Can a brand-new thermostat still be bad?

Yes. Defective new thermostats exist due to poor gasket fit or factory assembly. If hoses warm early or the engine won’t reach temperature, test another known-good unit. “I have already had such a defective one.” [Elektroda, cooltygrysek, post #16899915]

Is a 2°C spread between Engine 69°C and Instruments 71°C acceptable?

Yes. That small variance is within normal indication tolerance during warm-up. Focus on trends and stability over absolute single-point readings when diagnosing. Use consistent test conditions for comparisons. [Elektroda, stasiu270, post #16882565]

Could trapped air alone cause my symptoms?

Yes. Air pockets can lower indicated temperature and destabilize readings. Bleed the system thoroughly, then recheck VAG blocks and hose behavior to confirm recovery. Combine this with thermostat checks for a complete approach. [Elektroda, cooltygrysek, post #16882549]

What is the instrument cluster voltage stabilizer, in plain terms?

It provides a steady reference (about 10 V) so gauges read consistently. If the stabilizer or grounds fail, displayed temperature can be wrong despite proper engine heat. Verify the feed and fix any poor connections. [Elektroda, cooltygrysek, post #16891556]
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