Hello dear forum members of the electrode! This is my first winter with this engine, manual 2013 '2.0 TDI CR CJCA and I have a question is it normal that with an outside temperature of about -3 * C and urban driving the engine will not reach higher temperature than ~ 70 * C? Losing him on the beltway and the temperature jumps on the 90 * C drive into the city in the cork, slow rolling and again the temperature drop. Previously I was driving 1.9, 2.0 xp and when I caught 90 it held the engine. Heating in the cabin set to 2nd gear and 21 ° C temperature
I have read a bit and some write that it is normal, and others mention two thermostats (essential 03L121111AD and some small on the snake 059121113N) and supposedly helps, after which someone else writes that he exchanged two and more the same and that tttm ....
I have VCDS, maybe there is a tutorial on checking the thermostats? Can a possibly infected system have something to it? (I replaced the radiator but still it was warm) From what I played VCDS - group IDE00025 - temperature of the refrigerant fluid, IDE00192 temperature of the liquid at the outlet from the radiator. In my case when the cold engine in both groups has the same temperature (-5 * C). A few minutes after the start-up, IDE00025 shows 34 * C and IDE00192 17 * C Can anyone check for comparison these groups after starting on a cold engine as they grow. Because in my opinion the temperature at the exit from the radiator should rise as the thermostat just opens, not together with the temperature of the liquid in the "small" circulation. Thank you in advance for your help.
I do not have a webast. The electric heater works because the warm air flies from the airflow practically a short time after the car is started, but it only heats up the air entering the cab, and this is no problem. In the old, honorable 1.9, an additional heat was installed in the "water" cycle into three long glow plugs.
I will track this small thermostat (I have searched roughly but have not found it yet) and will try to replace it.
I have the A6C7 2.0 TDI CR and I have the same problem with the fact that the original thermostat will not get from the original EGR only as a whole with a hose for something around 500 PLN. And a replacement for 100-150 PLN. I ask my colleague if he exchanged for the original and the same or replacement and the same because as the original and unchanged it is a shame to dump the mud in a better way to try in my case on the replacement. I do not know if you buy an original EGR thermostat in A4 as a separate part or in a set with a hose?
I installed BEHR BTH 5 75 (you can see the scratched AUDI logo in the factory) EGR as it is closed then the exhaust does not heat the cooler, and my observations "water" flows through it all the time, I do not know where the thermostat from the EGR cooler is and whether it is at all. That's what I thought to reduce the diameter of the snake and see the effect.
Analyzing this link Diagram I am curious to know what you think about my theory. Let's focus on the EGR cycle, ie the orange color. Cold water from the cooler by means of the pump (17) goes through the sensor (No. 6- which in vcds is called the temperature of the liquid at the outlet from the radiator) to the radiator. In this cooler, cold water is heated by exhaust gases and pushed further by pump No. 17 goes to the bifurcation where there is a check valve 13 and thermostat 12. If the flue gas heats up to 87 ° C the thermostat 12 opens and passes the fluid into the small circulation in the engine. Just what if we are going slowly and the exhaust does not heat the liquid to the temperature at which the thermostat 12 opens? And it does not mean that the pump 17 pushes such warm water but does not heat up through the valve 13 to the cooler to cool it down. I The wheel closes because if the exhaust gas is not able to warm up the liquid to the thermostat opening temperature, the liquid goes to the cooler 2 and is cooled down. What do you think about my reasoning? How to change the thermostat 12 with the valve 13 in the place I would consider it sensible because then the pump pushes a slightly heated fluid to the block of the engine and when the fumes heat the liquid to the thermostat opening temperature thermostat would drop hot fluid into the radiator (2) not to overheat the engine and cool the liquid.
Hello everyone, winter again and I would like to refresh the topic of poorly heating vw 2.0 cr tdi.
As in the subject, I am struggling with the same problem in A4 b8 2.0 177hp.
I replaced both thermostats for original ones bought in VW and it is exactly the same. comparing thermostats it looks like these are original Behr companies. Did anyone mount Mahle thermostats and did it help?
I still have one car at my disposal vw passat b8 2.0tdi 170hp and that heats beautifully after a few kilometers I have 90C and never drops while driving.
I'm tired of this low temperature in a4.
As I asked the experts on the site in Kielce they said that this type is so.
Somehow it does not appeal to me and I do not recommend this site to anyone.
Please write how you solved the problem of engine heating
I think I discovered something, but I will find out how I can find the time to install this small thermostat because it is a buried dog, I think.
I had 2 original VW small thermostats bought in a Polish salon and through both I could blow the air with my mouth. There is no full flow there but under pressure I think there is enough break to cool the engine. As you undress this small one can see that it is made so that it flows - there is a small groove.
I bought two First Line thermostats (FTK406 and FTK106) in England and this small FTK406 thermostat is completely blocked. I hope it will work - I'll let you know Regards.
Hello pit30, I have a question whether the installation of this closed thermostat helped, that I was assembling myself and I could also blow into it normally. After replacing, the car does not heat up and I do not know whether to buy the original or keep going because my ideas are ending.
For me, gentlemen, after replacing the main aso has improved so much that the temperature reaches 90 before almost never. If I turn the heating on HI then the temperature drops, the engine cools down and the oil temperature quickly. He knows it optimally 22 degrees and then holds it 90 degrees. Unfortunately, you have to drive a bit to endanger the system. After Sunday, I exchange a small one for the original. The check valve, unfortunately, is in the node, the price with it is about 270 PLN, but it is able to compare whether the ball in the middle has to fly loose or is pushed by some spring as someone above suggested. How blown at him is on the one hand the passage And on the other the lock knows it looks good. It remains the option of some temperature sensor or how a small thermostat will not help. An interesting fact that makes you think in gasoline is the same small thermostat except that the opening temperature is 80 degrees and even one company makes 85 or 87 degrees of opening. Maybe if it is to blame in a small one, it would be worth considering whether to put in gasoline. I wonder what your opinion is?
Hello, in a6 c7 cgld I have exactly the same problem. both thermostats replaced aso-zero improvement. Reality also noticed that a small thermostat gently lets the water in closed position .pit30 solved the matter?
Gentlemen, I have already written in so many forums but I forgot here There is only one solution to the problem of underheating, just as a few people did and I did. You have to turn the check valve the other way around, I'm talking about a5 2012 177 cglc that's the only effect. I replaced both thermostats is better really large leaked. Small has it with its construction probably a little let through. I do not know how I have thermostats from ASO with me, connect the computer to the car in vcds you will notice (at least in my case) that if the engine has 30 degrees, radiator np20. But if the engine is 40, radiator 30 and so up. I do not know why this is so it turns out that the radiator is heating with the whole circuit. Some say that this is how the system is built on a cold engine, the liquid from the egr radiator falls on the engine and still cools it down, or something like that, as you want to know, please look in google. To the heart of the polyp, the non-return valve is in the node next to the bulkhead, the non-return valve is normally found in the tray. You take off two straps, you close the left hole, for example, the foil because on the right there are not many things pouring and the pressure on the system is not there. As you already have a hose, I used a long extension of about 15cm from a small rattle and push the valve. It goes only one way and the longer, if it goes hard you can heat the heat gun to soften the hose but not to exaggerate. If you reverse it, it falls like butter again. I suggest not adding liquid only, warm up the car, turn on the full heating and the fan for one to ventilate well. Maybe for a moment the level of fluid in the tank will increase, when the thermostat will not open to the radiator, at least in my case. In my opinion, reverse the valve will take a bit of circulation, because the egr pump will pump as if a little under current and a small thermostat would not open. I think so, but as I said, the system is complicated and hard to apply. In my opinion this is the only proven way I have been riding it for about half a year. Despite the aggressive fast driving for many kilometers, nothing happens, I did not notice side effects. I even bought a new check valve in the skoda for PLN 85 with the thought that it will change summer, but somehow the wish has fallen. The valve changed the number because it kind of improved it because the ball in the middle is not only plastic but now I covered the rubber to make it more tight I think. Read posts on forums even on an electrode in another thread, someone wrote that he also drives with an inverted thermostat and has no side effects. Anyway, if it was too hot, 5 minutes on the route and you turn it, but I did not exceed the engine 90 degrees. after 6km at 5 degrees in the field after night I had 90 degrees.
Hello I am sorry that I haven't written back for so long but only now I found time to replace these thermostats from my previous statement. If the thermostats will work, it will probably turn out in winter today, at low speed, the engine catches 70c after 15 minutes. 90C after about 5km drive with almost no gas added starting from a cold engine. There was no vent in the small thermostat but there was no problem venting the system. best regards
Added after 5 [minutes]:
To replace these unfortunate thermostats I suggest buying pliers as in the link below, really less health this replacement costs.