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[Solved] 2.0 TDI CR CJCA A4 B8 - The engine does not maintain the temperature of 90 * C

pilkozak 125535 44
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Treść została przetłumaczona polish » english Zobacz oryginalną wersję tematu
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  • #1 17024825
    pilkozak
    Level 17  
    Hello dear forum members of the electrode!
    This is my first winter with this engine, manual 2013 '2.0 TDI CR CJCA and I have a question is it normal that with an outside temperature of about -3 * C and urban driving the engine will not reach higher temperature than ~ 70 * C? Losing him on the beltway and the temperature jumps on the 90 * C drive into the city in the cork, slow rolling and again the temperature drop. Previously I was driving 1.9, 2.0 xp and when I caught 90 it held the engine. Heating in the cabin set to 2nd gear and 21 ° C temperature

    I have read a bit and some write that it is normal, and others mention two thermostats (essential 03L121111AD and some small on the snake 059121113N) and supposedly helps, after which someone else writes that he exchanged two and more the same and that tttm ....

    I have VCDS, maybe there is a tutorial on checking the thermostats?
    Can a possibly infected system have something to it? (I replaced the radiator but still it was warm)
    From what I played VCDS - group IDE00025 - temperature of the refrigerant fluid, IDE00192 temperature of the liquid at the outlet from the radiator.
    In my case when the cold engine in both groups has the same temperature (-5 * C). A few minutes after the start-up, IDE00025 shows 34 * C and IDE00192 17 * C
    Can anyone check for comparison these groups after starting on a cold engine as they grow. Because in my opinion the temperature at the exit from the radiator should rise as the thermostat just opens, not together with the temperature of the liquid in the "small" circulation.
    Thank you in advance for your help.
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  • #2 17024873
    pdemski
    Level 20  
    I bet that the thermostat does not close, that's why the temperature drops.
  • #3 17028065
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • #4 17028070
    andrzej20001
    Level 43  
    Either webasto / additional heat does not work.
  • #5 17029335
    pilkozak
    Level 17  
    andrzej20001 wrote:
    Either webasto / additional heat does not work.


    I do not have a webast. The electric heater works because the warm air flies from the airflow practically a short time after the car is started, but it only heats up the air entering the cab, and this is no problem.
    In the old, honorable 1.9, an additional heat was installed in the "water" cycle into three long glow plugs.

    I will track this small thermostat (I have searched roughly but have not found it yet) and will try to replace it.
  • #6 17073826
    misiek_kb
    Level 12  
    And how did Kolego locate / exchange, improved?
  • #7 17074185
    pilkozak
    Level 17  
    I replaced this little thermostat but it did not do anything. I started to turn the engine more and the temp. Keeps a little higher. In my opinion, the EGR cooler "takes" this heat energy.
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  • #8 17074268
    misiek_kb
    Level 12  
    Strange thing, some help others not. You exchanged for the original or replacement?
  • #9 17074283
    diodabg
    Level 30  
    pilkozak wrote:
    In my opinion, the EGR cooler "takes" this heat energy.

    The temperature of the exhaust gas warms up the liquid so that it does not cool.
    Thermostat must be original is expensive but proper because the lovers are cheaper but they do not work properly.
  • #10 17074338
    misiek_kb
    Level 12  
    I have the A6C7 2.0 TDI CR and I have the same problem with the fact that the original thermostat will not get from the original EGR only as a whole with a hose for something around 500 PLN. And a replacement for 100-150 PLN. I ask my colleague if he exchanged for the original and the same or replacement and the same because as the original and unchanged it is a shame to dump the mud in a better way to try in my case on the replacement. I do not know if you buy an original EGR thermostat in A4 as a separate part or in a set with a hose?
  • #11 17074352
    diodabg
    Level 30  
    At probe you can write a vase from egr and check to see if there is a problem in it.
  • #12 17074420
    pilkozak
    Level 17  
    I installed BEHR BTH 5 75 (you can see the scratched AUDI logo in the factory)
    EGR as it is closed then the exhaust does not heat the cooler, and my observations "water" flows through it all the time, I do not know where the thermostat from the EGR cooler is and whether it is at all.
    That's what I thought to reduce the diameter of the snake and see the effect.
  • #13 17074437
    misiek_kb
    Level 12  
    Analyzing this link Diagram I am curious to know what you think about my theory.
    Let's focus on the EGR cycle, ie the orange color.
    Cold water from the cooler by means of the pump (17) goes through the sensor (No. 6- which in vcds is called the temperature of the liquid at the outlet from the radiator) to the radiator. In this cooler, cold water is heated by exhaust gases and pushed further by pump No. 17 goes to the bifurcation where there is a check valve 13 and thermostat 12. If the flue gas heats up to 87 ° C the thermostat 12 opens and passes the fluid into the small circulation in the engine. Just what if we are going slowly and the exhaust does not heat the liquid to the temperature at which the thermostat 12 opens? And it does not mean that the pump 17 pushes such warm water but does not heat up through the valve 13 to the cooler to cool it down. I The wheel closes because if the exhaust gas is not able to warm up the liquid to the thermostat opening temperature, the liquid goes to the cooler 2 and is cooled down. What do you think about my reasoning? How to change the thermostat 12 with the valve 13 in the place I would consider it sensible because then the pump pushes a slightly heated fluid to the block of the engine and when the fumes heat the liquid to the thermostat opening temperature thermostat would drop hot fluid into the radiator (2) not to overheat the engine and cool the liquid.
  • #14 17076840
    pilkozak
    Level 17  
    He can try to disconnect the pump No. 17 and observe the effect. You would have to check if it starts together with a cold engine or it can start later.
  • #15 18369060
    pit30
    Level 12  
    Hello everyone, winter again and I would like to refresh the topic of poorly heating vw 2.0 cr tdi.

    As in the subject, I am struggling with the same problem in A4 b8 2.0 177hp.

    I replaced both thermostats for original ones bought in VW and it is exactly the same. comparing thermostats it looks like these are original Behr companies.
    Did anyone mount Mahle thermostats and did it help?

    I still have one car at my disposal vw passat b8 2.0tdi 170hp and that heats beautifully after a few kilometers I have 90C and never drops while driving.

    I'm tired of this low temperature in a4.

    As I asked the experts on the site in Kielce they said that this type is so.

    Somehow it does not appeal to me and I do not recommend this site to anyone.

    Please write how you solved the problem of engine heating
  • #16 18369075
    andrzej20001
    Level 43  
    The "webasto" heater in the wheel arch works?
  • #17 18369090
    pit30
    Level 12  
    I don't see webasto in my car
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  • #18 18395637
    uveone
    Level 12  
    And this is an automatic or manual transmission
  • #19 18403280
    pit30
    Level 12  
    Manual gearbox

    I think I discovered something, but I will find out how I can find the time to install this small thermostat because it is a buried dog, I think.

    I had 2 original VW small thermostats bought in a Polish salon and through both I could blow the air with my mouth. There is no full flow there but under pressure I think there is enough break to cool the engine. As you undress this small one can see that it is made so that it flows - there is a small groove.

    I bought two First Line thermostats (FTK406 and FTK106) in England and this small FTK406 thermostat is completely blocked.
    I hope it will work - I'll let you know
    Regards.
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  • #20 18404792
    sebek364
    Level 1  
    Hello pit30, I have a question whether the installation of this closed thermostat helped, that I was assembling myself and I could also blow into it normally. After replacing, the car does not heat up and I do not know whether to buy the original or keep going because my ideas are ending.
  • #21 18422183
    John 771
    Level 1  
    For me, after replacing the thermostat the same Audi Q3
  • #22 18423739
    MEGI313
    Level 12  
    For me, gentlemen, after replacing the main aso has improved so much that the temperature reaches 90 before almost never. If I turn the heating on HI then the temperature drops, the engine cools down and the oil temperature quickly. He knows it optimally 22 degrees and then holds it 90 degrees. Unfortunately, you have to drive a bit to endanger the system. After Sunday, I exchange a small one for the original. The check valve, unfortunately, is in the node, the price with it is about 270 PLN, but it is able to compare whether the ball in the middle has to fly loose or is pushed by some spring as someone above suggested. How blown at him is on the one hand the passage And on the other the lock knows it looks good. It remains the option of some temperature sensor or how a small thermostat will not help.
    An interesting fact that makes you think in gasoline is the same small thermostat except that the opening temperature is 80 degrees and even one company makes 85 or 87 degrees of opening. Maybe if it is to blame in a small one, it would be worth considering whether to put in gasoline. I wonder what your opinion is?
  • #23 18744703
    l19eon
    Level 10  
    Hello,
    in a6 c7 cgld I have exactly the same problem. both thermostats replaced aso-zero improvement. Reality also noticed that a small thermostat gently lets the water in closed position .pit30 solved the matter?
  • #24 18748629
    king395
    Level 10  
    since the thermostat is not an option, the silicone e.g. has fallen into the hole e.g. in the head and blocks the flow of water
  • #25 18751294
    MEGI313
    Level 12  
    Gentlemen, I have already written in so many forums but I forgot here ;) There is only one solution to the problem of underheating, just as a few people did and I did. You have to turn the check valve the other way around, I'm talking about a5 2012 177 cglc that's the only effect. I replaced both thermostats is better really large leaked. Small has it with its construction probably a little let through.
    I do not know how I have thermostats from ASO with me, connect the computer to the car in vcds you will notice (at least in my case) that if the engine has 30 degrees, radiator np20. But if the engine is 40, radiator 30 and so up. I do not know why this is so it turns out that the radiator is heating with the whole circuit. Some say that this is how the system is built on a cold engine, the liquid from the egr radiator falls on the engine and still cools it down, or something like that, as you want to know, please look in google.
    To the heart of the polyp, the non-return valve is in the node next to the bulkhead, the non-return valve is normally found in the tray. You take off two straps, you close the left hole, for example, the foil because on the right there are not many things pouring and the pressure on the system is not there. As you already have a hose, I used a long extension of about 15cm from a small rattle and push the valve. It goes only one way and the longer, if it goes hard you can heat the heat gun to soften the hose but not to exaggerate. If you reverse it, it falls like butter again. I suggest not adding liquid only, warm up the car, turn on the full heating and the fan for one to ventilate well. Maybe for a moment the level of fluid in the tank will increase, when the thermostat will not open to the radiator, at least in my case. In my opinion, reverse the valve will take a bit of circulation, because the egr pump will pump as if a little under current and a small thermostat would not open. I think so, but as I said, the system is complicated and hard to apply.
    In my opinion this is the only proven way I have been riding it for about half a year. Despite the aggressive fast driving for many kilometers, nothing happens, I did not notice side effects. I even bought a new check valve in the skoda for PLN 85 with the thought that it will change summer, but somehow the wish has fallen. The valve changed the number because it kind of improved it because the ball in the middle is not only plastic but now I covered the rubber to make it more tight I think.
    Read posts on forums even on an electrode in another thread, someone wrote that he also drives with an inverted thermostat and has no side effects. Anyway, if it was too hot, 5 minutes on the route and you turn it, but I did not exceed the engine 90 degrees. after 6km at 5 degrees in the field after night I had 90 degrees.
  • #26 18796427
    pit30
    Level 12  
    Hello
    I am sorry that I haven't written back for so long but only now I found time to replace these thermostats from my previous statement.
    If the thermostats will work, it will probably turn out in winter today, at low speed, the engine catches 70c after 15 minutes. 90C after about 5km drive with almost no gas added starting from a cold engine.
    There was no vent in the small thermostat but there was no problem venting the system.
    best regards

    Added after 5 [minutes]:

    To replace these unfortunate thermostats I suggest buying pliers as in the link below, really less health this replacement costs.

    https://allegro.pl/oferta/szczypce-z-linka-do...rzedzia_i_sprzet_warsztatowy&ev_adgr=Narz%C4% 99dzia + and + clutch% C4% 99T + workshop & utm_source = google & utm_medium = cpc & utm_campaign = _mtrzcj_czescimaszyn | 1539703379 | g | m & ev_adgr = | 59073944112 | 292 532 562 710 | & utm_term = sm-479689807340: PLA-617 638 435 117 || - | -20858 | & utm_content = | beach | MC: 142477502 p-: 8713087808 | & gclid = CjwKCAjwi_b3BRAGEiwAemPNU4Y38eUy-eUKq75SU3VBhiPJB30HV_NRBVtSbugDi6xA4AzP23ZBpRoC_34QAvD_BwE
  • #27 18812982
    l19eon
    Level 10  
    interesting is the solution with the valve inverted. only that means you are blocking the flow through the egr radiator until the small thermostat opens. does it not cause the radiator burn out?
  • #28 19180382
    kaczy1217
    Level 13  
    MEGI313 wrote:
    Gentlemen, I have written on so many forums, but I forgot here ;) There is only one solution to the problem of underheating, as some people have done, and I have. You have to reverse the check valve the other way, I'm talking about a5 2012 177 cglc only that has an effect. I replaced both thermostats, it is better, indeed, it is a long one. Little has it to himself that his construction seems to let a little through.
    I do not know how you have thermostats from ASO, connect the computer to the car in vcds you will notice (at least in my case) that if the engine has 30 degrees, the cooler is np20. But if the engine is 40, the radiator is 30 and so on. I do not know why it is so, it turns out that the radiator is heating with the entire circuit. Some say that this is how the system is built on a cold engine, the liquid from the egr cooler falls on the engine and continues to cool it, or somehow it was, if you want to know, please look in google.
    To the bottom of the polifta, the check valve is in the junction right next to the bulkhead, normally on the tray there is a check valve in the middle. You pull two bands, the left hole is blocked, for example, with foil because on the right there is little pouring and there is no pressure on the system. When you already have a hose, I used a long extension about 15 cm from a small rattle and you push the valve out. It comes out only one way and the longer one, if it goes hard, you can heat the hot air gun to soften the hose, but not too much. When you turn it back, it comes back like butter. I propose not to add the liquid just to heat up the car, turn on the heating full and the fan to ventilate well. Maybe the level of the liquid in the tank will rise for a moment until the thermostat will not open the coolers, at least for me it was like that. In my opinion, the reversal of the valve will take a little off the circulation because the egr pump is pumping as if it were a little under current until the small thermostat will not open. I think so, but as I said, the system is complicated and it's hard to make conclusions.
    In my opinion, this is the only proven way I have been riding it for about half a year. Despite the aggressive fast driving for many kilometers, nothing is happening, I did not notice any side effects. I even bought a new check valve in leather for PLN 85 with the thought that summer would change it, but somehow it fell. The valve changed the number because they kind of improved it because the ball inside is not only plastic, but now it's covered with rubber to make it tighter, I think.
    Read the posts on the forums, even on the electrode in another thread, someone wrote that he also drives with an inverted thermostat and has no side effects. Anyway, if it was too hot, it's 5 minutes on the route and you turn it, but my engine did not exceed 90 degrees. after 6 km at 5 degrees in the field, after a night I had 90 degrees.


    Hi,
    I have the exact same CGLC engine, only in the A6 C7 from 2012. My problem is exactly like yours. I fought him 2 years ago, to no avail. I installed 2 main thermostats from different manufacturers, I also replaced a smaller one, check valve. No effect in my opinion.

    The last step I took was to plug the tube where the check valve is, in short as if you added a wall at the valve location. I have the impression that this slightly stabilized the temperature after warming up (it does not drop so drastically, for example when I stand at the traffic lights), but then the car at about 0 degrees outside needs 15 km and sometimes sharper driving that catch the 4th dash that jumps at about 80st.
    Does this reverse check valve trick of yours work? How is your car behaving now at lower temperatures? Because I'm considering the same thing.
  • #29 19180521
    MEGI313
    Level 12  
    As I wrote above, the solution is perfect ? I would change it back for a hot summer, but this year I did it and no side effects.
  • #30 19269167
    emswisnia
    Level 15  
    And it's not like, for example, in a dci, where the engine gives off heat very quickly? Apart from 2.0tdi, I also have a 2.0dci and there, after warming up in winter and standing in a traffic jam, the engine temperature can drop (heat 22'C, air flow set) and after moving it returns to vertical again.
    It makes me wonder that the websites claim that these engines have so. Has anyone asked about the development of this answer, what is this supposed to mean?
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Topic summary

The discussion revolves around the issue of the 2.0 TDI CR CJCA engine in an Audi A4 B8 not maintaining the optimal operating temperature of 90°C during winter conditions, particularly when driving in urban settings. Users report that the engine temperature often stabilizes around 70°C, with fluctuations observed during different driving conditions. Several participants suggest that the problem may be related to the thermostat, specifically the small thermostat (part number 059121113N) and the main thermostat (part number 03L121111AD). Some users have replaced both thermostats with original parts but still experience issues. Others mention the EGR cooler potentially affecting temperature retention. Solutions discussed include checking the EGR system, replacing thermostats, and even reprogramming the EGR to improve temperature management. The conversation highlights varying experiences with different thermostat brands and the importance of using original parts for effective resolution.
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