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Renault Magnum DXI - EMS MID:128, PPID:8, FMI:2 Code: Seeking Help & Explanation

R2011480dxi 14451 14
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  • #1 16949794
    R2011480dxi
    Level 7  
    Posts: 7
    Rate: 5
    Hello, does anyone know what the code is, thank you in advance for your help
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  • #2 16950127
    kisiol
    Level 20  
    Posts: 1643
    Help: 36
    Rate: 468
    Buddy, you read this error correctly, check again. Which year of this magnumka is it.
  • #3 16951234
    Cobrat
    Level 22  
    Posts: 428
    Help: 35
    Rate: 499
    Piston cooling oil pressure. There was a search I recommend: Link
  • #4 16953218
    R2011480dxi
    Level 7  
    Posts: 7
    Rate: 5
    2011 480DXI EEV ERROR GONE BUT STILL NO POWER

    Added after 1 [minutes]:

    KISIO ERROR WAS DISPLAYED SO I PRESCRIBED IT
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  • #5 16953290
    Dagomir
    Level 20  
    Posts: 251
    Help: 42
    Rate: 189
    Ok, we guess that the bug related to the topic has changed its status to inactive. And as for the power maybe more details ??? Fuel pressure, boost etc. checked?
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  • #6 16953325
    R2011480dxi
    Level 7  
    Posts: 7
    Rate: 5
    Replaced turbine boost sensor in the manifold on the original original service all filters I installed new, proven intercoler, cleaned dragons in the tanks, proven turbine burned catalyst, but I don't know what pressure should be provided by the fuel pump because it shows 5.5 at elevated revs and less than 4 at slow speeds
  • #7 16953343
    Dagomir
    Level 20  
    Posts: 251
    Help: 42
    Rate: 189
    Fuel supply at idle, approx. 3.5 to 3.7 (checked on working dxi)
    Added after 2 [minutes]:
    What buddy do you have there boost pressure and how did you measure it? and is the engine brake fully functional?
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  • #8 16953368
    R2011480dxi
    Level 7  
    Posts: 7
    Rate: 5
    I connected it to the computer in the workshop and the experts stated that they didn't know what was. Where is this valve located? Or maybe you can make an appointment for a diagnosis?
  • #9 16953391
    Dagomir
    Level 20  
    Posts: 251
    Help: 42
    Rate: 189
    The boost pressure is best checked under load. On the other hand, the valve is located on the right side of the engine (viewed from the rear of the vehicle), right at the exhaust outlet on the side of the hot turbocharger. After removing the exhaust pipe behind the valve, you can check its operation using a computer.
    Correction, buddy, because maybe I called it wrong (valve), it is about the engine brake
  • #10 16953415
    R2011480dxi
    Level 7  
    Posts: 7
    Rate: 5
    Each time podpiecia under the comp. Shows that the pressure of doladowania is low. When I go with a load, it will enter the mountain as if nothing is ever going on and most of it is getting weaker now.
  • #11 16953496
    Dagomir
    Level 20  
    Posts: 251
    Help: 42
    Rate: 189
    Well, buddy, you answered yourself. The only option is to check how much the turbo beats if the sensor is new, then the cooler remains, or the turbo itself or connections. You don't hear any weird whistling sounds etc like you pedal under load?
  • #12 16953517
    R2011480dxi
    Level 7  
    Posts: 7
    Rate: 5
    Everything has been sealed, the turbo or installation remains to be checked
  • #13 16953523
    Cobrat
    Level 22  
    Posts: 428
    Help: 35
    Rate: 499
    R2011480dxi wrote:
    Each time podpiecia under the comp. Shows that the pressure of doladowania is low.


    Let's clarify: you get an error of the sensor itself, do they say so when reading the parameters?
  • #14 16954128
    R2011480dxi
    Level 7  
    Posts: 7
    Rate: 5
    They state after reading and translating the code
  • #15 16955339
    Cobrat
    Level 22  
    Posts: 428
    Help: 35
    Rate: 499
    They probably did not check the harnesses of the sensor itself, nor the real boost pressure (by connecting the clock).
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around a Renault Magnum DXI experiencing an EMS MID:128, PPID:8, FMI:2 error code, specifically related to piston cooling oil pressure. The user seeks clarification on the error and reports a lack of power despite resolving the initial error. Various contributors suggest checking fuel pressure, boost pressure, and the functionality of the engine brake. The user has replaced the turbine boost sensor and checked several components, but still experiences low boost pressure under load. Recommendations include verifying the turbocharger and its connections, as well as ensuring the sensor harnesses are intact. The conversation emphasizes the importance of diagnosing the boost pressure accurately under load conditions.
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FAQ

TL;DR: Renault Magnum DXI code EMS MID 128 PPID 8 FMI 2 points toward piston cooling oil/boost-related checks; "Fuel supply at idle, approx. 3.5 to 3.7" bar is a useful yardstick. [Elektroda, Dagomir, post #16953343]

Why it matters: This FAQ helps DXI owners troubleshoot low power and decoding errors with simple, workshop-ready checks.

Quick Facts

What does EMS MID 128 PPID 8 FMI 2 mean on a Renault Magnum DXI?

In this thread, members tied that combination to piston-cooling oil pressure/boost-related checks. Start by confirming the sensor reading and real system behavior. "Piston cooling oil pressure" was explicitly mentioned as the signal to investigate. Verify with live data and a physical test before replacing parts. [Elektroda, Cobrat, post #16951234]

My 2011 Magnum 480 DXI EEV cleared the code but still lacks power—what’s next?

A cleared, inactive code does not guarantee restored performance. Continue diagnosis: log fuel supply pressure, log boost under load, and compare to expected values. Gather baseline data before further parts swaps. The case reported the error gone, yet power remained low, underscoring the need for on-road measurements. [Elektroda, R2011480dxi, post #16953218]

What fuel supply pressure should I see at idle on a DXI?

Expect approximately 3.5–3.7 bar at idle on a healthy DXI. Use a reliable gauge and confirm with the ECU live data. Keep hoses and filters clean to maintain this baseline. "Fuel supply at idle, approx. 3.5 to 3.7" is a practical target. [Elektroda, Dagomir, post #16953343]

Where is the engine-brake valve and how do I check it?

Stand behind the vehicle, right side of the engine, near the hot turbo outlet. Remove the exhaust pipe behind the valve, then command the brake via diagnostic software to observe movement. The boost check is best done under load to mirror real conditions. "The boost pressure is best checked under load." [Elektroda, Dagomir, post #16953391]

Diagnostics say low boost—what should I inspect first?

Measure actual boost with a mechanical gauge on a road test. If the sensor is new, focus on intercooler leaks, charge hoses, turbocharger health, and connections. Listen for whistling under load. Edge case: you can have no active DTCs and still have low power from leaks. [Elektroda, Dagomir, post #16953496]

Should I trust the scan tool alone for boost pressure?

No. Validate with a mechanical gauge (“clock”) and compare to the ECU reading. Discrepancies point to sensor, wiring, or scaling issues. This step saves time and prevents unnecessary parts replacement. Always pair live data with a physical measurement. [Elektroda, Cobrat, post #16955339]

Could wiring cause a false low-boost reading?

Yes. A damaged harness or connector at the boost sensor can mimic real low boost. Before chasing hardware faults, inspect and wiggle-test the sensor wiring, then recheck live data. Repair poor terminals and retest under load. [Elektroda, Cobrat, post #16955339]

I replaced the boost sensor and filters and still have no power—what now?

Confirm the turbo makes target boost under load with a gauge. If not, focus on the intercooler, charge piping, clamps, and turbocharger condition. Seemingly small leaks cause large losses at load. Only move on after sealing the charge-air path. [Elektroda, Dagomir, post #16953496]

How do I verify real boost pressure under load?

  1. Tee a calibrated mechanical gauge into the intake manifold pressure line.
  2. Perform a controlled road test on grade with logging enabled.
  3. Compare the gauge reading to ECU live data; investigate if they diverge. [Elektroda, Cobrat, post #16955339]

What readings did the thread starter observe for fuel pressure?

They reported about 5.5 bar at higher revs and under 4 bar at idle. Use this only as context, not a specification. Always compare to known-good values and repeat the measurement with your own equipment. [Elektroda, R2011480dxi, post #16953325]

How do I tell if the fault is the sensor or just the parameter reading?

Clarify whether the ECU flagged a sensor DTC or you only saw low boost in parameters. If it’s only parameters, verify with a mechanical gauge and inspect wiring. If it’s a sensor DTC, test voltage, ground, and signal before replacement. [Elektroda, Cobrat, post #16953523]

What if everything tests sealed but power is still down?

If the intercooler and piping are sealed, revisit turbocharger operation and installation. Check actuator movement, shaft play, and wastegate/VGT function. Only after confirming boost under load should you consider further fuel or exhaust restrictions. [Elektroda, R2011480dxi, post #16953517]

Do I need to check boost on a dyno, or is road testing enough?

Road testing under load is sufficient when performed safely and logged properly. It reflects real conditions better than a no-load rev test. Use the gauge and scan data together to validate results. [Elektroda, Dagomir, post #16953391]

Why might a shop say “we don’t know” after scanning?

A scan can show low boost but not its cause. Without verifying harness integrity and actual boost with a gauge, root-cause analysis stalls. Insist on physical tests alongside diagnostics to move forward. [Elektroda, R2011480dxi, post #16953368]
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