logo elektroda
logo elektroda
X
logo elektroda
Advanced Search
logo elektroda

[Solved] Leaking Cersanit Flush Cistern After Water Meter Replacement: 4.5 Bar Pressure, Gasket Fix?

Kriksus 147294 12
ADVERTISEMENT
Treść została przetłumaczona polish » english Zobacz oryginalną wersję tematu
Report a violation of the law
| New topic
  • #1 17002000
    Kriksus
    Level 10  
    Posts: 21
    Rate: 15
    Hello

    Well, I have this problem. By a strange coincidence, after replacing the water meter in the bathroom, I started to flush my cistern. I am a layman and I do not know what could have gone wrong, set up some 4 years ago.

    Leaking Cersanit Flush Cistern After Water Meter Replacement: 4.5 Bar Pressure, Gasket Fix? Leaking Cersanit Flush Cistern After Water Meter Replacement: 4.5 Bar Pressure, Gasket Fix?

    It seems to me that before setting up the water meter the pressure was max. 4. By lowering the pressure on the regulator, the problem disappears, but the water from the battery flies with squeeze.

    Does anyone know how to fix it? Undress, replace the gasket? Are these blue elements with arrows just screws? I do not know if it makes sense to take it, because I feel somewhere that it's the sewage plant's operation, although on the phone they told me it was the cistern's fault and that's all. However, the pressure itself jumped to 4.5 (bara?), What does it result from?

    Thanks in advance for help
  • ADVERTISEMENT
  • Helpful post
    #2 17002040
    grzeskk
    Level 35  
    Posts: 2193
    Help: 319
    Rate: 723
    It follows that the gasket on the cistern has aged and the battery is heavily stained. At 4 bars, there should be no problem.
  • Helpful post
    #3 17002127
    RADU23
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl  
    Posts: 20712
    Help: 2425
    Rate: 1726
    If the water flies non-stop, it is traditionally a problem with the valve flushing filling.
    Leaking Cersanit Flush Cistern After Water Meter Replacement: 4.5 Bar Pressure, Gasket Fix?
    I have often exchanged in concealed sets.
    Valve +/- PLN 30. If you want at a cost, then you can buy the gaskets themselves and replace them. They are here =>
    Leaking Cersanit Flush Cistern After Water Meter Replacement: 4.5 Bar Pressure, Gasket Fix?
  • ADVERTISEMENT
  • Helpful post
    #4 17015367
    ta_tar
    Level 41  
    Posts: 6438
    Help: 693
    Rate: 2027
    RADU23 wrote:
    If the water flies non-stop, it is traditionally a problem with a flushing valve
    Leaking Cersanit Flush Cistern After Water Meter Replacement: 4.5 Bar Pressure, Gasket Fix?
    I have often exchanged in concealed sets.
    Valve +/- PLN 30. If you want at a cost, then you can buy the gaskets themselves and replace them. They are here =>
    Leaking Cersanit Flush Cistern After Water Meter Replacement: 4.5 Bar Pressure, Gasket Fix?

    Slight correction. The pictures are shown filling valve not the flushing valve.
  • Helpful post
    #5 17016021
    RADU23
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl  
    Posts: 20712
    Help: 2425
    Rate: 1726
    ta_tar wrote:
    The pictures show the filling valve and not the flushing valve.

    Right. I am very sorry for the mistake. Of course, talk about filling valve .
    In the above post I corrected.
    Thank you for drawing attention.
  • ADVERTISEMENT
  • #6 17021102
    Kriksus
    Level 10  
    Posts: 21
    Rate: 15
    I just took it for today. I screwed up, cleaned it and ... I broke the valve completely. I mounted as I took off and yet the valve does not cut off the water supply, the float is taut, the inner element improves to slide in / out, while the cistern still fills up. I found only one gasket.

    And what about the purchase, how do these valves differ for the average user, that one costs 25 zlotys and the other 50 zlotys? I will buy the simplest, I will exchange and let me know.
    Leaking Cersanit Flush Cistern After Water Meter Replacement: 4.5 Bar Pressure, Gasket Fix?
  • ADVERTISEMENT
  • Helpful post
    #7 17021460
    RADU23
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl  
    Posts: 20712
    Help: 2425
    Rate: 1726
    He made a friend like it should be? Because the picture is not complex.
    The float should be in a different place (as in the above photo that I attached).
    Kriksus wrote:
    how do these valves differ for the average user, that one costs 25 zlotys and the other 50 zlotys? I will buy the simplest, I will exchange and let me know.

    Of course you can buy the cheaper one.
  • Helpful post
    #8 17021469
    grzeskk
    Level 35  
    Posts: 2193
    Help: 319
    Rate: 723
    The most common reason for not closing the valve is hardening and passing one tiny seal around 5mm in diameter. The beginner usually does not even notice it after dismantling the valve.
  • Helpful post
    #9 17021541
    dybas
    Level 38  
    Posts: 3128
    Help: 419
    Rate: 337
    I keep repeating that repairing filling valves does not make sense. What about the fact that the rubber elements can be replaced, since the plastic ones are stoned and made. For this assembly, which requires precision. You have to dismantle, go to the store and choose a new one. A few nozzles, assembly in a minute and peace for a few years. For me, the water is such that I had to replace the valves in front of the washbasins and kibles after a few years. They were ball and stiff. I can only dream about the thermostatic head in the spray booth.
  • #10 17022037
    Kriksus
    Level 10  
    Posts: 21
    Rate: 15
    RADU23 wrote:
    He made a friend like it should be? Because the picture is not complex.
    The float should be in a different place (as in the above photo that I attached).
    Kriksus wrote:
    how do these valves differ for the average user, that one costs 25 zlotys and the other 50 zlotys? I will buy the simplest, I will exchange and let me know.

    Of course you can buy the cheaper one.


    Yes, I folded it correctly, I actually threw the photo unfortunate, but I mounted the float well under the pressure of the water running but stick with it. I have located the gasket only one photo.
    Leaking Cersanit Flush Cistern After Water Meter Replacement: 4.5 Bar Pressure, Gasket Fix?
    Today I am going to the hydraulic, it is 3/8 inch, but I will take on fit and I hope it will be ok.
  • Helpful post
    #11 17022082
    grzeskk
    Level 35  
    Posts: 2193
    Help: 319
    Rate: 723
    The lever that the swimmer pushes tightens the tiny seal to the hole that can be seen in the center of the white disc in the picture. As this gasket permeates, the valve will not close.
  • #12 17023729
    Kriksus
    Level 10  
    Posts: 21
    Rate: 15
    The cost of a new valve was PLN 18. He sang for the first time, but now everything is normal :) . It seems to me that the water flows a little louder, I'm not sure, I may have felt. Thanks for the help ;)
  • #13 17023731
    Kriksus
    Level 10  
    Posts: 21
    Rate: 15
    I exchanged the valve for some of the cheapest KK-POL and after the problem.
| New topic
Report a violation of the law

Topic summary

✨ After replacing the water meter, a user experienced a leaking Cersanit flush cistern, with water pressure rising to 4.5 bar. The issue was identified as a malfunctioning filling valve, likely due to an aged gasket. Users suggested that replacing the valve is more effective than attempting to repair it, as the rubber components often degrade over time. The user successfully replaced the valve with a budget option, resolving the leak and restoring normal function. The discussion highlighted the importance of proper installation and maintenance of cistern components to prevent similar issues.
Generated by the language model.

FAQ

TL;DR: A constantly refilling Cersanit cistern after a water‑meter swap is usually a worn filling valve or seal; replacement is simple and cheap (≈ PLN 30). As one expert puts it, “Valve +/- PLN 30.” [Elektroda, RADU23, post #17002127]

Why it matters: This FAQ helps DIYers quickly diagnose leaks, choose parts, and restore normal flush without over‑reducing water pressure.

Quick-Facts

Quick Facts

Why did my cistern start leaking right after the water meter was replaced?

The meter change likely exposed an existing weakness. Aged seals in the filling valve stop sealing and the tank keeps refilling. Healthy installations handle around 4 bar without trouble, so a continuous refill points to wear, not just pressure. [Elektroda, grzeskk, post #17002040]

How do I know it’s the filling valve and not the flush mechanism?

If water flows into the bowl non‑stop from the tank refill, the filling valve is the typical culprit. Replace the valve or its internal seals to stop the continuous inflow. “If the water flies non‑stop, it is… a problem with the… filling.” [Elektroda, RADU23, post #17002127]

What is a filling valve?

The filling valve (not the flushing valve) controls water entering the cistern after a flush. When it fails, the tank keeps taking water. The thread clarifies the component shown and discussed is the filling valve, not the flushing valve. [Elektroda, ta_tar, post #17015367]

Should I repair the filling valve or replace it?

Replace it. Rubber parts age and plastic parts scale, making repairs short‑lived. As one pro says, “repairing filling valves does not make sense.” A new valve installs quickly and lasts years with typical water quality. [Elektroda, dybas, post #17021541]

How much will a new filling valve cost me?

Expect about PLN 18–30. One user fixed the issue with a new valve for PLN 18, showing replacements are budget‑friendly. That keeps the repair accessible without specialist tools. [Elektroda, Kriksus, post #17023729]

Will a cheap valve work, or do I need a premium model?

A budget model is fine. An inexpensive KK‑POL valve resolved the leak immediately in this case. Experts in the thread also advised that a cheaper unit is acceptable for typical home use. [Elektroda, Kriksus, post #17023731]

What size inlet should I buy for a Cersanit concealed cistern?

Match what you remove. In the documented case, the inlet connection was 3/8 inch. Taking the old valve to the store helps ensure a correct fit. [Elektroda, Kriksus, post #17022037]

What’s the most common reason a filling valve won’t shut off?

A hardened, tiny seal (about 5 mm) fails to seat against the orifice, so water keeps flowing. Beginners often miss this small gasket during disassembly. Replace the seal or the entire valve. [Elektroda, grzeskk, post #17021469]

Can higher pressure like 4–4.5 bar cause this by itself?

Sound valves handle around 4 bar without issues. If problems appear at that level, the internal filling valve parts are already worn. Restoring the valve fixes symptoms without lowering system pressure. [Elektroda, grzeskk, post #17002040]

How do I replace the filling valve in three steps?

  1. Shut water off, drain cistern, and remove the old filling valve assembly.
  2. Take it to the store, choose a compatible replacement, and prepare new seals.
  3. Install the new valve, reconnect, open water, and test for a clean shutoff. [Elektroda, dybas, post #17021541]

My float seems tight but water still flows—what gives?

Incorrect float placement or linkage can prevent shutoff. Ensure the float sits as intended by the valve design; repositioning often restores cut‑off. Recheck orientation before assuming a part defect. [Elektroda, RADU23, post #17021460]

Why does it sound louder after installing a new valve?

Fresh valves may pass water more freely, and users notice a louder fill. In the reported fix, initial noise settled and operation returned to normal after use. [Elektroda, Kriksus, post #17023729]

What’s the tiny hole in the white disc and why does it matter?

A lever presses a small seal against that central orifice to stop flow. If that seal passes, the valve never closes. Replacing that seal or valve restores shutoff. [Elektroda, grzeskk, post #17022082]

Is lowering the regulator pressure a good long‑term fix?

No. Lowering pressure masks the symptom and weakens tap performance. Restoring the filling valve to proper function keeps full flow at fixtures. Replace the valve instead of detuning pressure. [Elektroda, dybas, post #17021541]

Any brand tips when buying?

Match size and orientation, then favor availability. In this thread, a budget KK‑POL valve solved the leak immediately, confirming brand flexibility for standard setups. [Elektroda, Kriksus, post #17023731]
Generated by the language model.
ADVERTISEMENT