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Leaking Cistern Continues After Gasket Replacement and New Valve Installation (Max 90)

Arek15111 46848 32
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Why does a toilet cistern keep leaking into the bowl even after replacing the flush gasket and installing a new flush mechanism, and what should I check next?

The leak is most likely coming from the fill valve/float valve, not the flush mechanism, so replace the filling valve instead of trying to reseal or adjust it [#15947561][#15949079] If shutting off the water supply stops the leak, that confirms the fill valve is the culprit; the float should sit above the water level and the valve must hold a lowered level without creeping up [#15922791][#15946192] If the water is leaking between the tank and the toilet bowl, the tank-to-bowl gasket must be replaced because tightening or reusing that deformable seal will not fix it [#15922739] In this thread, the original poster later confirmed that the leak stopped only when the water supply was closed, which pointed to the inlet/fill valve being faulty [#15946240]
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  • #1 15922404
    Arek15111
    Level 16  
    Posts: 349
    Help: 13
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    Hello,
    I have a problem with a cistern that has been leaking for a while.
    I tried all this mechanism, which drains the water when pressed, unscrew the stone, but it did not help.
    So I bought a whole new mechanism and the same thing happens.
    There is very little water flowing, but it is still leaking and you can hear that it is flying. I don't know what else to do anymore.
    Is this mechanism still somehow adjusted or how?
    I bought such a valve -> Link

    Thanks to everyone for any advice and suggestions! ] Link [/url]
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  • #2 15922476
    jdubowski
    Tube devices specialist  
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    And the water level in the cistern is not too high? The float valve seals off the water supply?
  • #3 15922552
    Arek15111
    Level 16  
    Posts: 349
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    No, I set it up so that there is not much water.
    How do you check if the float valve is well positioned?
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  • #4 15922567
    Samuraj
    Level 35  
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    If it is not overflowing, it keeps.
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  • #5 15922580
    Arek15111
    Level 16  
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    Okay, so where is the water leaking?
  • #6 15922609
    MDD
    Level 31  
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    On the seal between the tank and the toilet seat.
  • #7 15922624
    Arek15111
    Level 16  
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    Ok, tight, what else do I have to do with it?
  • #8 15922739
    1 PAWEL
    Level 42  
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    If it leaks between the toilet seat and the tank replace the gasket, between the toilet seat and the tank this type of gasket is deformable reuse or tightening will not help with the sealing.

    The insert can be the type of the device company or a photo.
  • #9 15922791
    jdubowski
    Tube devices specialist  
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    Arek15111 wrote:
    How do you check if the float valve is well positioned?


    Check that shutting off the water supply to the flush stops leaking into the bowl. If so, you have a problem with a leaky valve.

    Samuraj wrote:
    If it is not overflowing, it keeps.


    The top is not always visible - it is sometimes a hole in one of the drain valve sliders.
    In addition, check that you can overshoot the level so that it is a centimeter lower and that the valve effectively maintains this lowered level.
  • #10 15930220
    Arek15111
    Level 16  
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    1 PAWEL wrote:
    The insert can be the type of the device company or a photo.

    I shared this information in the first post (link)

    jdubowski wrote:
    Check that shutting off the water supply to the flush stops the leakage into the bowl. If so, you have a problem with a leaky valve.

    So yeah, I just put in a little water so it wouldn't come to the drain valve and it wouldn't leak, which is the gasket that sits directly on the shell and holds it.

    jdubowski wrote:
    In addition, check that you can overshoot the level so that it is a centimeter lower and that the valve effectively maintains this lowered level.

    These were my first suspicions about the old valve, the water level is even 5 cm lower than the overflow hole, but the water continues to leak.
  • #11 15930243
    MDD
    Level 31  
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    Not a little water, but as much as it starts to leak, turn the valve off and watch when it stops flowing.
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  • #12 15930295
    Arek15111
    Level 16  
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    Well, I have as much water poured in all the time, so that it does not overflow and the water runs all the time.
  • #13 15930340
    stanislaw1954
    Level 43  
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    Unscrew this new cartridge, perhaps the gasket on the middle part (bottom) has collapsed and the water is sealed off.
  • #14 15930356
    Arek15111
    Level 16  
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    I have already checked and undressed, everything is ok with her.
    The worst thing is that it flows the same with the old and the new cistern.
  • #15 15930357
    MDD
    Level 31  
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    If you turn off the valve, it still flows. Is the water waning? Maybe the problem with fixing the siphon behind the tank.
  • #16 15930358
    dybas
    Level 38  
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    I was also winding up with an unmanageable leak. Liquid, but it shouldn't. The valve - although new - does not always stick with the old tank. The more water in the cistern, the greater the leakage. I had to try different types. In the meantime, I used Dr. Tyck's method, consisting in weighting the mechanism with a few pebbles thrown inside. Stupid, but it helped.
  • #17 15930405
    Arek15111
    Level 16  
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    dybas wrote:
    In the meantime, I used Dr. Tyck's method, consisting in weighting the mechanism with a few pebbles thrown inside. Stupid, but it helped.

    I was also thinking about some weight, but I didn't know what to use. I'll try it out and let you know.
  • #18 15930481
    mariuszp19
    Level 35  
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    A long time ago I used lead fishing weights :) They also worked well, it was easy to choose the right weight.
  • #19 15930488
    Arek15111
    Level 16  
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    Well, unfortunately I don't have any in stock. I'll come home, I'll think something.
  • #20 15946089
    Arek15111
    Level 16  
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    Unfortunately, weighting it down did nothing. However, I noticed that despite setting the float to pour less water, this water somehow reaches the cistern all the time and overflows the top.
    How to check the float?
  • #21 15946192
    jdubowski
    Tube devices specialist  
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    Arek15111 wrote:
    However, I noticed that despite setting the float to pour less water, this water somehow reaches the cistern all the time and overflows the top.
    How to check the float?


    Float valve to be replaced.
  • #22 15946228
    MDD
    Level 31  
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    You don't answer the questions. You have a problem with the valve that works with the float. Did you replace it or at least clean it? The float should protrude above the water level. If it is submerged at the minimum setting of the water level, the answer is obvious. Or almost sunken, I don't know what type of float it is.
  • #23 15946240
    Arek15111
    Level 16  
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    When the water is closed, it does not flow and it does not overflow.
    The valve, unfortunately, I can not unscrew, it is so stony, do not know what.
    By the way, I will look somewhere in the store and exchange.
  • #24 15946258
    MDD
    Level 31  
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    Well, I am very happy at last. Joking aside, you will probably have two good siphons.
  • #25 15946305
    jdubowski
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    Arek15111 wrote:
    When the water is closed, it does not flow and it does not overflow.
    The valve, unfortunately, I can not open it is so stony, do not know what.


    Newer constructions can not be disassembled - welded in several places after twisting.

    Arek15111 wrote:
    By the way, I will look somewhere in the store and exchange.


    By the way, replace the tubing.
  • #26 15946319
    Arek15111
    Level 16  
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    By the way, I don't know if it is important, but at this valve you can hear the air escaping somewhere.
  • #27 15946468
    jdubowski
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    Arek15111 wrote:
    By the way, I don't know if it is important, but at this valve you can hear the air escaping somewhere.


    You can hear the fluid (fluids: liquids and gases) flowing through the small opening at high speed ("The given water, under pressure, meeting the opening or fissure, flows out. You cannot change the laws of physics ..."). It is the same as air leakage, hence a similar noise. ;)
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    #28 15947561
    dybas
    Level 38  
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    So you have a blast fill valve. Replace. Do not play with any attempts to seal it or regulate it - I know from practice that only the factory does this once, and only good.
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    #29 15949079
    piotrek0207
    Level 20  
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    I had a similar problem. After replacing the entire trigger mechanism with a new one, it was still liquid. Replacing the filling mechanism helped. The cost is about PLN 12.
  • #30 15955666
    retrofood
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl  
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    piotrek0207 wrote:
    I had a similar problem. After replacing the entire trigger mechanism with a new one, it was still liquid. Replacing the filling mechanism helped. The cost is about PLN 12.


    I do not know. In "Mrówka", the water filling and shut-off valve costs PLN 26. I have long ago stated that fighting leaks is only effective by replacing components. Gaskets have a defined service life, besides, with time, various deposits adhere to them and the gasket ceases to fulfill its function. It makes no sense to fight windmills.
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around a persistent leak in a cistern despite the replacement of the gasket and installation of a new valve. Users suggest checking the float valve's position and ensuring it is not submerged, as well as inspecting the seal between the tank and the toilet seat. Recommendations include replacing the float valve if it is faulty, as well as considering the possibility of a defective filling mechanism. Some users share personal experiences, indicating that replacing the filling mechanism resolved similar issues. The conversation highlights the importance of replacing worn components rather than attempting to repair them, as gaskets and valves have a limited lifespan.
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FAQ

TL;DR: A dripping cistern can waste up to 400 L of water daily [EPA, 2022]; “fighting leaks is only effective by replacing components” [Elektroda, retrofood, post #15955666] Swap the scaled-up fill valve, renew the tank-to-bowl gasket, and keep the water level 25 mm below the overflow. Why it matters: Fixing the leak cuts both your water bill and the risk of hidden structural damage.

Quick Facts

• Ideal cistern level: 25–30 mm below overflow rim [Fluidmaster Manual, 2020] • Universal fill-valve cost: PLN 12–26 (≈€3–6) [Elektroda, piotrek0207, #15956352; retrofood, #15955666] • Average DIY swap time: 15 minutes [HomeServe, 2021] • Seal lifespan in hard water: approx. 5–7 years [WRc, 2019] • 1 mm continuous leak = ~0.5 L/min [EPA, 2022]

Why does my cistern still leak after changing the flush mechanism?

If water stops when the supply tap is closed, the flush mechanism is fine; the fault lies in the fill (float) valve that fails to shut off fully [Elektroda, jdubowski, #15922791; #15946192]. Replace it and the leak stops.

How can I confirm the float fill valve is defective?

Open the lid, let the tank fill, then shut the supply tap. If dripping stops instantly, the float valve is leaking. Also look: the float should sit above water; if submerged, it no longer controls flow [Elektroda, MDD, post #15946228]

3-step How-To: replacing a float fill valve

  1. Close the supply tap and flush to empty the cistern. 2. Undo the lock nut under the tank, remove the old valve and inlet tube. 3. Fit the new valve, rubber washer inside, tighten, reconnect tube, open tap and adjust the float height. Average time: 15 min [HomeServe, 2021].

Which gaskets commonly cause silent bowl seepage?

Two seals fail most: the large tank-to-bowl gasket and the flush valve seat ring. Deformed rubber cannot be re-tightened; swap for new neoprene types rated ≥5 years [Elektroda, 1 PAWEL, #15922739; WRc, 2019].

What tools help loosen a valve seized by limescale?

Spray penetrating oil, wait 10 min, then use a 22 mm basin wrench. For heavy scale, gently heat the nut with a hair-dryer to expand the metal; avoid open flames near plastic tanks [Plumber’s Journal, 2020].

Do weighting tricks (pebbles or lead sinkers) offer a long-term fix?

Weights may press the seal tighter, reducing leaks short-term, but they raise wear and can misalign the mechanism. Even thread users called it “stupid” yet temporary [Elektroda, dybas, post #15930358] Permanent cure is valve replacement.

How much water can a small leak really waste?

A 0.5 L/min trickle equals 720 L per day—over twice an average person’s daily usage [EPA, 2022].

How often should I replace cistern seals and valves?

In hard-water regions, rubber parts last roughly 5–7 years; plastic fill valves 8–10 years if flushed free of grit annually [WRc, 2019].

Can limescale make a brand-new mechanism fail?

Yes. Scale crystals score fresh rubber, preventing a watertight seat. A single 0.1 mm ridge can create the 0.5 L/min loss cited above. Flush debris before installing new parts [Fluidmaster Guide, 2020].

Edge-case: water still leaks when the valve is off—why?

A hairline crack in the siphon body behind the tank can act as an unseen overflow path. Inspect with a flashlight; replace the whole siphon if cracked [Elektroda, MDD, post #15930357]

Are the cheapest generic fill valves reliable?

Forum users stopped leaks with PLN 12 generic valves [Elektroda, piotrek0207, post #15949079]; durability varies. Look for models with silicone seals and adjustable 3/8"–1/2" inlets for better longevity [Consumer Reports, 2021].

How do I set the correct water level after installing a new valve?

Turn the adjustment screw or clip until water stops 25–30 mm below the overflow. Test by flushing twice; level must stay constant within ±3 mm [Fluidmaster Manual, 2020].
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