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Vaillant Furnace: Connecting a Room Regulator with Dry Contact Thermostat (24V, Pins 7 8 9)

Agmar268 39432 11
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  • #1 17164089
    Agmar268
    Level 8  
    Posts: 3
    Rate: 1
    Hello everyone, I am at the stage of connecting the room regulator to the furnace but the diagram has no input for a dry contact thermostat only with 24V power supply pins 7 8 9 and I have such a regulator from a stalopal furnace and I would like to connect it to the furnace but I do not know if it is possible there is a jumper on newer models
    and there is nothing I am asking you for help and thank you in advance
    Vaillant Furnace: Connecting a Room Regulator with Dry Contact Thermostat (24V, Pins 7 8 9)1523552717...424436.jpg (3.03 MB)You must be logged in to download this attachment.

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  • #2 17164857
    mauri_b
    Heating systems specialist
    Posts: 1055
    Help: 109
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    There is a 3-4 jumper for the room thermostat. Just be careful, because there is 230V, but you can let it go through a regular room thermostat.
  • #3 17165058
    BUCKS
    Level 39  
    Posts: 3820
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    After photos I see that you have an old boiler from a dozen or so years ago, because newer ones have 7-8-9 additional eBUS connector next to them.

    The 7-8-9 connectors described as 21V are used to connect the original Vaillant room regulator, e.g. VRT390, then you need a 3-wire cable, but the description shows that your case does not apply, so you can forget about 7-8-9 connectors.
    In the case of typical ON-OFF room regulators, which is a whole mass on the market, 3-4 connectors are used. As mauri_b wrote, there is 230V, so the regulator must offer potential-free contacts, i.e. voltage-free and connection should be done after removing the boiler's power plug from the 230V socket.
    You remove the jumper and connect the 2-wire cable in this place, the other end of the cable is connected to the room regulator.
    If the room regulator wants to turn on the heating, it closes the circuit, which simulates the presence of a jumper on contacts 3-4, and if the heating is turned off, opens the circuit, which simulates the lack of a jumper on contacts 3-4.
    You need to make sure that your regulator has voltage-free contacts capable of controlling the gas boiler with a 230V pulse and will close the circuit when heating or open the circuit when heating is turned off.
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  • #4 17165232
    Agmar268
    Level 8  
    Posts: 3
    Rate: 1
    Thanks to all of you for the hints.
    I have a TECH regulator ST-292 v3 but I don't know much about it.
    I prefer to seek advice from people who know each other and suggest something wise.
    Thanks for any tips.
  • #5 17166036
    BUCKS
    Level 39  
    Posts: 3820
    Help: 536
    Rate: 1085
    since you don't know each other, call a specialist who will connect you to it.
    I usually just need to download the user manual and a glance at the connection diagram and I know what to do, although I am an amateur.
    If this is beyond you, it is better not to rummage yourself, because a layman can spoil something. In such cases, two left hands fall off.
  • #6 17713296
    Targanici
    Level 7  
    Posts: 6
    Rate: 4
    Connecting to the thread. With the original controller on 789 contacts, can jumper 34 be controlled without fear, e.g. remotely via a contactor / relay. That is - regardless of the state of the controller 789, disconnect the contacts 34. Even how do you get with opening 34 for the moment of heating the furnace?
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  • #7 17713605
    BUCKS
    Level 39  
    Posts: 3820
    Help: 536
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    Targanici wrote:
    That is - regardless of the state of the controller 789, disconnect the contacts 34. Even how do you get with opening 34 for the moment of heating the furnace?

    They use regulator 7-8-9, according to the instructions of my boiler, contacts 3-4 must be permanently shorted.
    This suggests that in the case of open contacts 3-4 heating which will not work despite the fact that regulator 7-8-9 will give a heating request.
    In other words, contacts 3-4 have a higher priority than contacts 7-8-9 but without heating demand from regulator 7-8-9, the boiler will not start.
    With this in mind, you can play with contacts 3-4 while using the 7-8-9 regulator if you have such a need, although I don't see any sense in it.
  • #8 17717244
    Targanici
    Level 7  
    Posts: 6
    Rate: 4
    Thank you very much for your comprehensive reply.
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  • #9 17956628
    Targanici
    Level 7  
    Posts: 6
    Rate: 4
    BUCKS wrote:

    With this in mind, you can play with contacts 3-4 while using the 7-8-9 regulator if you have such a need, although I don't see any sense in it.

    There is a point.
    Instead of setting the holiday mode, you can remotely control the activation of heating. All this in order to be able to come to a warm home, e.g. earlier than expected by placing a "suitcase" on the regulator. With this assumption, holiday mode may not be used, but maintaining tmp. (e.g. 15 degrees) I will set with an external regulator with a contactor connector connected to these contacts 3 and 4.
  • #10 20566197
    kloza19
    Level 1  
    Posts: 1
    BUCKS wrote:
    Targanici wrote:
    That is - regardless of the state of the regulator 789, disconnect contacts 34. Even if you happen to open 34 for the moment of heating the furnace?

    They use the 7-8-9 regulator, according to the instructions of my boiler, contacts 3-4 must be permanently closed.
    This suggests that in the case of open contacts 3-4, the heating will not work, although the controller 7-8-9 will give a heating request.
    In other words, contacts 3-4 have a higher priority than contacts 7-8-9, but without a request for heating from the regulator 7-8-9, the boiler will not start.
    With this in mind, you can play with pins 3-4 while using the 7-8-9 regulator if you need to, although I don't see the point in it.


    Good morning
    I have a question regarding the suggestion of the predecessor, I have a 789 regulator and I would like to control the heating of the water with it, set when it should heat the water in the boiler and when not. And besides, I would like to use a 3-4 regulator to control central heating remotely using regulators generally available on the internet. Can something like this be done and it will not be so-called. Bite? Thanks for the help
  • #11 20566524
    BUCKS
    Level 39  
    Posts: 3820
    Help: 536
    Rate: 1085
    kloza19 wrote:
    I have a question regarding the suggestion of the predecessor, I have a 789 regulator and I would like to control the heating of the water with it, set when it should heat the water in the boiler and when not. And besides, I would like to use a 3-4 regulator to control central heating remotely using regulators generally available on the Internet

    contacts 3-4 may be open, and the boiler will still heat hot water when you turn on the tap.
    In other words, contacts 3-4 control only the central heating mode in the boiler.

    For this reason, in my opinion, there should be no problems for the 7-8-9 controller to control the hot water heating, and the 3-4 controller to control the
    The necessary condition is that the 7-8-9 controller must be set to the maximum central heating temperature, so that it constantly demands heating. Otherwise, if 7-8-9 turns off the central heating, switching on contacts 3-4 will not start central heating.

    But you still need to test it in practice to make sure it works the way you want it to.

    Added after 5 [minutes]:

    it is worth remembering that the 7-8-9 controllers have 2 operating modes, continuous and two-state, so in these circumstances the two-state mode should be set. I do not know the algorithm of the 7-8-9 driver, so I cannot guarantee that it will work the same in all conditions. The 7-8-9 regulators had an "intelligence" that I couldn't figure out because they didn't behave predictably like a typical ON/OFF regulator.
  • #12 20567525
    ls_77
    Level 38  
    Posts: 2441
    Help: 500
    Rate: 946
    And what exactly is the regulator plugged into 7-8-9?

Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around connecting a room regulator to a Vaillant furnace using a dry contact thermostat. The user inquires about the compatibility of their existing regulator with the furnace's 24V pins (7, 8, 9) and the presence of a jumper in newer models. Responses indicate that older models utilize contacts 3-4 for typical ON-OFF room regulators, while the 7-8-9 connectors are designed for specific Vaillant regulators like the VRT390. Users advise ensuring the regulator has potential-free contacts and suggest removing the jumper to connect the room regulator. There are also discussions about controlling heating remotely and the operational modes of the regulators. Caution is advised for those unfamiliar with electrical work, recommending professional assistance if needed.
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FAQ

TL;DR: On Vaillant boilers, terminals 3–4 carry 230 V; use a dry-contact thermostat. "There is 230V, but you can let it go through a regular room thermostat." Use 7–8–9 only for Vaillant regulators; we show safe wiring and dual-control options. [Elektroda, mauri_b, post #17164857]

Why it matters: It prevents miswiring damage, enables safe remote control, and keeps CH and DHW working as intended.

Quick Facts

How do I connect a dry‑contact thermostat to my Vaillant with pins 7‑8‑9 and 3‑4?

Use terminals 3–4 for ON/OFF control. Isolate mains power first. Remove the factory jumper on 3–4, then connect a two‑wire cable from your thermostat’s potential‑free contacts. Do not use 7–8–9 for a dry‑contact thermostat; they are for Vaillant’s own regulators. [Elektroda, BUCKS, post #17165058]

Is there mains voltage on 3‑4, and is a regular thermostat OK?

Yes, 3–4 carries 230 V. A regular room thermostat is fine only if it uses voltage‑free (dry) contacts. Avoid thermostats that output their own voltage. “There is 230V, but you can let it go through a regular room thermostat.” [Elektroda, mauri_b, post #17164857]

What exactly are terminals 7‑8‑9 for?

They are low‑voltage (~21 V) connections for original Vaillant room regulators, such as the VRT390. These use a 3‑wire cable. Do not connect a two‑wire ON/OFF thermostat there. For simple ON/OFF control, use 3–4 with a two‑wire dry‑contact cable. [Elektroda, BUCKS, post #17165058]

Can I combine a 7‑8‑9 controller with a remote relay on 3‑4?

Yes, but understand priorities. When 3–4 opens, CH stops even if 7–8–9 requests heating. Many manuals state “contacts 3–4 must be permanently shorted.” Use your relay to open/close 3–4 only if you want to deliberately block CH. [Elektroda, BUCKS, post #17713605]

Will opening 3‑4 affect hot water heating (DHW)?

No. Contacts 3–4 control only central heating. DHW works regardless; the boiler heats water when you open a tap. This allows CH blocking while keeping hot water available. [Elektroda, BUCKS, post #20566524]

How can I schedule DHW on 7‑8‑9 and still switch CH remotely?

Use the 7–8–9 controller to manage DHW, and place a remote relay on 3–4 for CH enable/disable. Set the 7–8–9 controller to maximum CH temperature and two‑state mode so it always allows CH when 3–4 closes. Otherwise, CH may not start. [Elektroda, BUCKS, post #20566524]

I have a TECH ST‑292 v3 thermostat — will it work here?

It will if it provides potential‑free contacts suitable for switching the boiler’s 3–4. Connect its dry contacts to 3–4 after removing the jumper and isolating power. If the thermostat outputs voltage, add a relay to provide a dry contact instead. Check the device manual. [Elektroda, BUCKS, post #17165058]

What are the steps to connect a dry‑contact thermostat to 3‑4?

  1. Unplug the boiler from 230 V to isolate power.
  2. Remove the factory jumper on 3–4, then connect a two‑wire cable from the thermostat’s dry contacts.
  3. Restore power and test: closing 3–4 should start CH, opening 3–4 should stop CH. [Elektroda, BUCKS, post #17165058]

Do I need eBUS for this boiler?

Older boilers often have only 7–8–9 for Vaillant regulators, with an additional eBUS connector appearing on newer boards. For basic ON/OFF room control, use 3–4 regardless of eBUS presence. 7–8–9 is not for third‑party ON/OFF thermostats. [Elektroda, BUCKS, post #17165058]

What happens if I wire a thermostat that outputs voltage instead of a dry contact?

Do not feed external voltage into 3–4. That circuit expects a potential‑free switch and already carries 230 V. Use a dry‑contact thermostat, or interpose a relay to convert a powered output to a clean contact. This avoids miswiring and malfunction. [Elektroda, BUCKS, post #17165058]

Where is the factory jumper, and what does it do?

The factory jumper sits across terminals 3–4 to keep CH enabled without a room thermostat. Remove it when installing your thermostat, and wire your two conductors to 3–4. Remember: there is 230 V on these terminals. [Elektroda, mauri_b, post #17164857]

My boiler ignores the 7‑8‑9 controller call for heat — why?

Check terminals 3–4. If 3–4 is open, the boiler will not run CH even if 7–8–9 requests heating. Close 3–4 (or reinstall the jumper) and test again. This priority is by design. [Elektroda, BUCKS, post #17713605]

Can I do this myself, or should I call a specialist?

If wiring diagrams or safety steps are unclear, hire a professional. Hazardous voltages are present. As one expert advised: “call a specialist.” It’s safer than risking damage or injury during installation. [Elektroda, BUCKS, post #17166036]

Which controller models fit 7‑8‑9?

Original Vaillant room regulators connect to 7–8–9, for example the VRT390. They use three conductors and exchange data over the dedicated interface. Typical third‑party ON/OFF thermostats should use 3–4 instead. [Elektroda, BUCKS, post #17165058]
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