Connecting Danfoss Link BR Relay to Vaillant ecoTec Plus Boiler: Diagram and Settings Needed

Hello
I have installed a whole Danfoss Link thermostatic system in the house, the question concerns the Danfoss Link BR relay, which will start my furnace.
If anyone has a diagram where I should connect it and turn it on in the furnace settings, I would be grateful.

Thank you in advance

greetings awiam

Were you watching? https://youtu.be/ZvDBjQhdfG8

Connecting the relay itself is not a problem, the question is where to plug it in the Vaillant boiler and how to activate it in the boiler menu ...

Unfortunately not our way, but it's about setting.

I mean the boiler, where to plug it in the boiler and in which boiler menu to activate it

In the boiler on the board there is an RT24 cube with a factory jumper. In place of this jumper, devices to block boiler operation are plugged in. Opening the jumper stops the operation of the central heating boiler. Short circuit return work on CO.
Of course, this is a voltage-free contact, so you can't supply ~230V there

We are talking about the white one, plug the relay in this place?

Yes "24V=RT" - just do not enter ~230V here - this is a voltage-free contact :idea:

The blue "Burner off" cube turns off the entire boiler: for central heating and hot water - used, for example, to connect the condensate pump - if something falls in it and it does not pump, it blocks the entire burner (for central heating and hot water).

I connected it and everything works great, I had to disconnect the room control panel and the external temperature sensor.
Thank you very much for your help.
Regards

Wojtasinskiw wrote:

I had to disconnect the room control panel and the external temperature sensor.

But why? you could have left. If you had an ext. then you had a weather regulator. Probably some CalorMatic. On it, you can turn off the influence of the room temperature, leaving the room temperature control to Danfoss Link, and in the Vaillant regulator, leave only the weather control, i.e. the dependence of operation (temperature of water flowing from the boiler to the central heating) on external conditions. Now the boiler will be switched on with a constant temperature set on the boiler - not very economical.

ls_77 wrote:

Now the boiler will be switched on with a constant temperature set on the boiler - not very economical.

And why not economically? Isn't such a model of operation sometimes suitable for underfloor heating, where practically the temperature of water in the pipes must be at a certain temperature?

If someone has several/over a dozen zones, I think that the water temperature must be the same anyway, and only the individual zones are turned on/off at the time of heating. The more of these zones, the longer I think the boiler will work continuously because it is highly probable that one of the zones will be underheated - different cooling characteristics of the rooms.

Perhaps it would be more effective to reduce the temperature of the water in the floor heating system to a lower level the closer we are to the set temperature (for a given zone/loop), but probably such a solution, e.g. using Tech strips and a Vaillant boiler, is not (as far as I know) possible. Or am I wrong? Please let me know if something like this can be done.

Thanks.

This "room" panel is if you had an outdoor temperature sensor - it is a weather regulator with the possibility of mounting in the room and activating the possibility of regulating / reacting to the room temperature.
For condensing boilers, it is recommended to use weather control, i.e. reacting to changes in external temperature. The weather regulator measures the temperature outside and, according to the set heating curve, calculates the temperature to be delivered to the heating system. If you have a regulator hanging in the room, you can determine its impact on the operation of the boiler and the temperature of water in the central heating system. In the "installer menu"->"system configuration" it is possible to set the "influence of room temperature." on:
none - measuring does not give anything - we only have weather regulation and a preview of the room temperature,
correction - the regulator measures the temperature in the room and when it reaches the set temperature, it sends a signal to the boiler to lower the water temperature, because we are already reaching the set temperature - the boiler continues to work, providing heat, but at a lower water temperature,
thermostat - reaching the set temperature in the room turns off the boiler.
In your case, I would leave the outdoor temperature sensor and the regulator in the room and set the "influence of room temperature" on it. to "none" to just leave reg. weather. Of course, you should spend some time and play with the heating curve to find the right one for your building. Most often, kg for a floorboard in Vaillant is 0.3-0.6. Weather regulation allows the boiler to operate with the lowest possible water temperature in the system that is currently needed, taking into account the external temperature. At an external temperature of ~+10°C, let's say ~26°C is sufficient for the underfloor heating. At ~0°C, let's say ~30°C is enough. At ~-10°C, ~35°C is sufficient. And at ~-20°C let's say ~40°. Of course, we can keep one water temperature in the system all the time, e.g. ~35 ° C, and temperature control in the room. thermostats in the rooms and appropriately long or short opening/closing times of the thermal actuators in the OP loops will take care of it, but it is always better for the boiler and for comfort that the system works as long as possible and with the lowest possible water temperature in the system.

I also have a Danfoss Link and a Vaillant single-function, non-condensing, turbo gas stove, although of a different type, but the boiler can only be controlled on/off by shorting two contacts (3-4 in my case) OR through a 24V room controller connected to other contacts (5-6 -7).
Either or. You cannot use the room controller and on/off at the same time.
I suspect that in other Vaillant boilers it is the same.

Unfortunately, you are wrong. New condensing boilers have the ability to work with a connected weather regulator via the E-Bus connector and it is possible to connect a central heating boiler operation blockade via the RT24 contact

Good morning, I have a question about the settings (selection of the furnace) Vaillant EcoTec Plus VC 256/5-5 in combination with the danfoss system. Previously, I had a controller with a detector in the living room (probably from the Fibaro system) and after reaching the temperature in the room, it turned off the stove. The danfoss system works on a similar principle, except that it turns on the stove, which runs at idle speed until it reaches the temperature in individual rooms. I noticed increased gas consumption (it should rather be the other way around). The residential part has an area of 165m2, plus a garage and a technical room of about 60m2. Since the stove is running at idle for a long time anyway, should the gas consumption be reduced when installing a stove with lower power (assuming that it would also work at idle speed)? What should be the temperature of central heating and hot water? The house on the ground floor has underfloor heating with electric actuators and a danfoss regulator, plus ordinary radiators, partly with danfoss heads, partly with traditional ones. Gzu consumption is about 11-12 m3 per day at the current temperatures, that is during the day around 0 at night around -4 degrees.

You may have set the oven temperature too low.
In my opinion, the temperature should be set at about 70 degrees, underfloor heating should be connected through a three-way valve set so that the temperature at its outlet is never higher than 55C.

Buddy, change the rest of the heads to danfoss and adjust the Danfoss link central unit all rooms.
I have 55 degrees on the stove, floor heating on the ground floor, radiators on the first floor and everything works very well, and my gas consumption has also decreased.
With danfos link, the signal is sent to the furnace when there is a demand for heat in a given room and quickly heats this room because only there the head will open, if you have standard heads, the heat circulates in other rooms.
I am very pleased, but it took me a few days to get everything in tune.
In the danfoss link control panel, in the service system, there are all settings...

I know I'm reheating a cutlet, but please let me know if my line of thinking is correct.
1.
Contacts from "danfos" at the bottom (control of the 1st pump) and top (control of the 2nd pump) will be connected in parallel to the furnace control contact so that when all thermostats are closed at the top and bottom, the boiler will be turned off. Thanks to this, I have independent operation of the pumps + shutdown of the furnace when both manifolds are turned off. I can do like that?

2.
What about the control in the living room where we have the main controller? According to the advice, I will turn off the room temperature correction, but in such a system, you should add a room thermostat next to it and regulate the circuit in the living room already from the "dafos" level, and set the vaillant regulator to the same temperature as the dafos added next to it? Or rather leave the living room circuit independent, i.e. always open (only then it is enough that one circuit will be turned on, it will also heat the living room, or vice versa, turning off the circuits will turn off the living room).

I hope I expressed myself understandably.

Write exactly what you have in the Danfoss Link installation and what and where you want to connect - you write terribly incomprehensible.

You cannot connect any voltage contact to the Vaillant boiler!

Hello you.

I am at the stage of building a house. Ultimately, the heating source will be Vaillant EcoTec 146.

house layout:

GROUND FLOOR:
MANIFOLD 1
1) GARAGE - heater
2) WINDOW - floor
3) BATHROOM - floor tiles plus a ladder
4) KITCHEN - floor
5) HOL - floor
6) DINING ROOM - floor
7) LIVING ROOM - floor

FLOOR:
MANIFOLD 2
1) BATHROOM - floor tiles plus a ladder
2) ROOM 1 - heater
3) ROOM 2 - heater
4) ROOM 3 - heater
5) ROOM 4 - heater

Remarks:
-Two pumps, one for temperature on the upper manifold, the other on the lower one.
- The divider at the bottom has 6 op loops
- The manifold at the top has 5 radiator loops and at the end 1 floor loop in the bathroom
- The loop of the ladder radiator at the bottom and the radiator in the garage is a discharge from the pipes going to the manifold at the top (probably because the underfloor manifold at the bottom will not take the right temperature for the radiators and it would be pointless to create an additional manifold for these 2 radiators - while the ladder at the bottom and the radiator in the garage are unlikely to be used permanently and when needed)

Get to the point...
I would like to equip it with a tech controller (model l-9r due to a lot of conveniences such as power supply for room regulators or the ability to connect two controllers via RS if necessary (it seems to me the most sensible when it comes to possibilities, price, technical facilities and availability of additional devices )...

I see it in a nutshell: I have weather control on the stove as a function of the external temperature - we set the appropriate supply temperature to the radiators and op so that the house is not overheated from the beginning.

My goal of setting up the controller is that we generally sleep upstairs and stay in the afternoon, so between 9 am and 4 pm I would like to limit the heating to the maximum so as not to unnecessarily release power into the air. Therefore, the control at the top with time windows at certain hours, besides reducing the heating to the temperature at which I will load the stove the least, but such that later in the heating time windows I do not have to hit the temperature hard. In addition, the maximum temperatures set in the room zones upstairs to have comfort Temperatures (we like 19-20 degrees max).

Downstairs, the underfloor heating works rather all the time (I consider it besnens to turn it off, unless the temperature is lowered for the summer season) and turn off during the day when the temperature in the room is appropriate.

It does not live yet, so we will tune the system with the on/off hysteresis later.

The algorithm I see is as follows: I set the heating temperature according to the weather, in the heating windows it heats until the set temperature in the rooms of a given area (manifold) is reached, and when it is reached, I slowly turn off the heating on this manifold so as not to push the heat in excess.

Do you see the sense of such a control installation? Any comments, suggestions? I have already routed the cables between the distributors (they pass through the boiler rooms, so it will be easy to reconnect them, cross them to get installations of the desired shape, upstairs in the rooms, cables for sensors / room regulators (there will be a schedule control and online access to the system, so for me personally the regulators in rooms are not necessary - but due to the profession of automation / electrician I learned to lay cables with cores in reserve so I can give both the regulator and the sensor ), under the heaters, cables under the actuators (yes, cables - I want the cable system to the max, as little wireless as possible - once more stable, I have two cables in excess available for pennies and now it's not a problem to put them and later I don't want to watch the battery, and that's will cost).

Can anyone tell me if in vaillant we will be able to sleep the weather system to control the temperature of the heating circuits and at the same time control the controller relative to room temperatures?

Thank you in advance for any comments.

First of all, you need to "make" the boiler room according to the scheme recommended by Vaillant S172 from the "Scheme Manual" link :


It is important to give your hydraulic system (radiator and floor circuit) a hydraulic clutch and a pump group for radiators and a pump-mixing group for a floor heating system.
You need to use Vaillant automation:
1) weather regulator, e.g. MultiMatic 700 - most often added to the boiler + tank package
2) module for handling heating circuits: preferably VR71, but VR70 is also enough
3) remote control for the second heating circuit VR91
MultiMatic 700 will be placed in the area of e.g. floor heating and will operate this heating circuit, and VR91 will be placed in the radiator zone - i.e. on the first floor.
Both "controllers" can individually control specific heating circuits and influence their operation according to the temperatures prevailing in given zones.
For starters, this is enough - start the system and see if it suits you. You will always be able to add extensive control of individual rooms at any time if you decide that you need it.

I would like to bypass the control via vaillant drivers. I would like the stove to have only the set temperature for the heating curve circuits by colormatic, but the maid is controlled by a different system. I found another driver:
https://a.aliexpress.com/_uIxJOX has functions like this Tech driver but has wifi after the application so it will probably be easier to control it online and has outputs for the furnace and has outputs for pumps. The price is cool, so I would go for one controller for one manifold and one pump. The question is whether I will be able to control the ecotec with the voltage-free contact

bartek672 wrote:

I would like to bypass the control via vaillant drivers.

It won't go away until the end.

bartek672 wrote:

I would like the stove to have only the set temperature for the heating curve circuits by colormatic, but the maid is controlled by a different system.

In order for the boiler to "walk" on the weather forecast, it must have the MultiMatic700 connected - it is a weather regulator. But to separately control the water temperature in radiators and underfloor heating - you need the VR70 module. Pumps, mixer and temperature sensors are connected to it, it is connected to the boiler and MultiMatic via BUS. Only then the boiler and the automatics see two circuits and can control them individually - a different heating curve can be set for each heating circuit. This module (VR70) also has inputs to which you can connect signals for heating or blocking heating from external control devices (e.g. control strips) if there is no demand for heating from a given strip, it "closes" the contact and the boiler and Vaillant automatics know that does not have to work for this particular heating circuit.

bartek672 wrote:

The question is whether I will be able to control the ecotec with the voltage-free contact

As I wrote above, the contact is voltage-free but closed when there is no heat demand. When there is a need for heating, the contact opens.
The opposite principle to the contact inside the boiler - opening blocks work there - but this does not apply to you (this is with the boiler).

You see now you have written it in a clearer way for me and after reviewing the diagram again, I understand i.e. vr is a module that enables communication with the vaillant furnace installation thanks to voltage-free contacts, i.e. behind the furnace, the vr70 module focuses on managing the pump, mixers based on weather analysis and adjusting the heating curve, i.e. setting the appropriate temperature of the circuits based on the thermal inertia of the building and the impact it has the current outside temperature. And now we can start managing the temperature in the rooms with an external slat system, i.e. closing / opening individual circuits based on the set and measured temperature. The difference is that the strip does not take over the management of the mixer and the pump only does it vr70. He can only get information from the strip that: the temperature in all rooms has been reached and further heating of the furnace is pointless, therefore the strip to the individual distributor will send a signal on vr70 about the 'end of heating' for this moment.

I am satisfied with this solution. Because vaillant will adjust the temperature of the circuits according to the heating curve so that it is optimal for heating the house, and thanks to the strip, if the temperature is ok (e.g. reduced temperature during the absence of household members), it fights through the signal to vr70 heating for this circuit. I suppose that it will give additional savings q first of all managing the temperature from the room level will give the highest comfort of use.

Thanks, mate!

Yes exactly.

And where to connect the wires to control the circulation pump in the Vaillant furnace? The boiler control is connected to the RT24, but I still have two wires to control the pump, which go from the PL07 Salus module. The house has 100% underfloor heating powered by a pump from the boiler. There are no additional pumps or mixing systems in the manifolds, and there is no coupling or additional pumps behind the boiler.

You don't need to connect any pump. You already have the pump in the boiler. When the strip blocks the operation of the boiler, the burner will turn off, the pump will work for a while because it has a programmed overrun and that's it.

I still have a question, because the problem I have is that I set the temperature of 21.5 degrees on the Salus room thermostat in the living room, while the temperature in this room remains at 20.5 degrees and does not want to go up even though the stove is running almost all the time. In addition, I have a Vaillant Multimatic weather regulator in the living room and a temperature sensor outside the building. This controller is set to:

room temperature correction - lack
Assign. zones - none
Heating curve - 0.6
Adapt. Heating curve - YES
temp. Power Setpoint - 40 degrees C
Minimum temperature - 20 degrees C
Maximum temperature - 40 degrees C

The supply temperature to the furnace during its operation is currently maintained at 31 degrees. Is it enough to raise the heating curve to heat up the living room? In other rooms, the temperature is kept as set on the Salus room regulators.

You don't need to lift kg. Perhaps the flows in the heating loops serving the living room are too low. They would have to be adjusted to bring more energy into this room.