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[Solved] Extending Electric Cables: 400V Terminal Block, 6A vs 10A Load - Kitchen Appliance Safety

Adula1 28950 29
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Can a 6A terminal block safely handle a 10A kitchen appliance connection, or should it be replaced with a higher-rated connector?

No—if the terminal block is really rated only 6A, it is too small for a 10A oven/appliance circuit and should be replaced with a connector rated at least 10A, preferably 16A, matched to the cable cross-section [#17208424][#17208860][#17208188] Several replies warn that an undersized or loose connection will heat up under load, the contacts can loosen and burn, and the block may melt or short before the protection trips [#17208809][#17209588] The cable size also has to be checked: one reply says to verify at least 2.5 mm² for the oven, while 1.5 mm² is only suitable for a 10A fuse, about 2.2 kW in practice [#17208188] Another reply notes that the marking may be 400V and 6 mm², not 6A, so the exact label/photo should be checked before assuming the current rating [#17209255][#17209401] If this splice is already hidden under tiles, the thread’s advice is to have an electrician redo it rather than leave a questionable connection inaccessible [#17209420][#17211899]
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  • #1 17208019
    Adula1
    Level 6  
    Posts: 20
    Rate: 1
    Hello. I do not know if I am writing in the right place, but I have a question for people who know electricity because I am concerned about a certain problem. I was renovating the kitchen and the arrangement of household appliances changed, so my father-in-law started to move the sockets for the dishwasher, oven and refrigerator to me. So I have a question because I used a 400V terminal block, six amps but a 10 amp load. Will this cube burn? Shouldn't there be a higher load capacity? Please reply.
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  • #2 17208165
    jalop
    Level 24  
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    He did it poorly. It all depends on the total power of household appliances
  • Helpful post
    #3 17208188
    2P
    Level 20  
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    Cube 6A for the oven is asking to short circuit. I had such a case myself, but it was caused by changing the oven from gas to electric - nobody looked into the socket until some time ago the fuses blown - the cube is melted and the wires are short-circuited.
    When it comes to extending cables, please look here: https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic3356395.html
    Hardly any electrician wants to do this, but it is a failure-free solution for the entire life of the installation.

    The cables themselves should be checked in advance if they have at least 2.5 mm2. If it is 1.5 mm - to the oven itself, however, I encourage you to replace the wires. You can rather let go of the refrigerator and dishwasher, but I would verify the power of the dishwasher - a 1.5 mm cable should have a 10A fuse, i.e. up to 2.2 kW in practice.
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  • #4 17208301
    Adula1
    Level 6  
    Posts: 20
    Rate: 1
    2P wrote:
    Cube 6A for the oven is asking to short circuit. I had such a case myself, but it was caused by changing the oven from gas to electric - nobody looked into the socket until one day the fuses blown - the cube was melted and the wires were shorted.
    When it comes to extending cables, please look here: https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic3356395.html
    Hardly any electrician wants to do this, but it is a failure-free solution for the entire life of the installation.

    The cables themselves should be checked in advance if they have at least 2.5 mm2. If it is 1.5 mm - to the oven itself, however, I encourage you to replace the wires. You can rather let go of the refrigerator and dishwasher, but I would verify the power of the dishwasher - a 1.5 mm cable should have a 10A fuse, i.e. up to 2.2 kW in practice.


    Ie. used a six terminal block but its load capacity is 10 amps, the oven supports 3.6kw, will it hold up?

    Added after 5 [minutes]:

    jalop wrote:
    He did it poorly. It all depends on the total power of household appliances


    The oven draws 3.60 kW and used a cube of six but 10 amps
  • #5 17208424
    kSmuk
    Level 21  
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    Adula1 wrote:
    Amber

    Ampere

    Adula1 wrote:
    supports

    gets

    Adula1 wrote:
    sq

    kW

    Adula1 wrote:
    I mean, he used a six terminal block, but its load capacity is 10 Amber the oven supports 3.6 kw, will it stand?

    No, he won't. The current carrying capacity of this strip should not be less than 16 A.
  • #6 17208623
    Adula1
    Level 6  
    Posts: 20
    Rate: 1
    kSmuk wrote:
    Adula1 wrote:
    Amber

    Ampere

    Adula1 wrote:
    supports

    gets

    Adula1 wrote:
    sq

    kW

    Adula1 wrote:
    I mean, he used a six terminal block, but its load capacity is 10 Amber the oven supports 3.6 kw, will it stand?

    No, he won't. The current carrying capacity of this strip should not be less than 16 A.


    Sorry for the typo. I also thought it was too small. It's just that it's already tiled, ehh what can happen if it stays that way?
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  • #7 17208784
    Borutka
    Level 29  
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    Are you doing a renovation and you feel sorry for an electrician? Probably everything from one phase and only screws without twisted pair?
    Will you wait for your cottage with smoke to go?
  • #8 17208809
    Chupacabra
    Level 33  
    Posts: 1682
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    Adula1 wrote:
    what can happen if it stays like this?

    The connector will heat up under high current load for a long time. The contacts will loosen and burn out over time. As a result, the cube will melt like plasticine and the conductive elements will shorten, triggering the protection. It could happen in two months or maybe in two years. At best, only this part of the installation will suffer. If something sticks to the wall permanently, you need to connect it firmly.
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  • #9 17208815
    mod22
    Level 28  
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    Use twisted cubes with the appropriate cross-section and it will be ok.
  • #10 17208855
    Adula1
    Level 6  
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    mod22 wrote:
    Use twisted cubes with the appropriate cross-section and it will be ok.


    With the right cross-section, i.e.
  • #11 17208860
    mod22
    Level 28  
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    That is 16A.
  • #12 17209096
    r103
    Level 37  
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    mod22 wrote:
    That is 16A.


    The unit of measure for length / area is not an ampere, but a meter and its derivatives 8-)
  • #13 17209255
    andrzej lukaszewicz
    Level 42  
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    Adula1 wrote:
    So I have a question because I used a 400V terminal block, six amps but a 10 amp load. Will this cube burn? Shouldn't there be a higher load capacity? Please reply.

    I wonder, where did you read the load capacity of this strip? And everyone thoughtlessly picked up the topic and are discussing.
    Upload a photo, I will believe it, but I bet that the strip is 400V and has an acceptable cross-section of 6mm2, not a current of 6A.
    The smallest strip, e.g. a 2.5mm2 simet, has a load capacity of 24A! And 6mm2 has a load capacity of 41A, so each of them is theoretically suitable for an oven, but I personally link in such strips always "overlap", i.e. two wires overlap each other so as to were always tightened by 2 screws. And this forces the use of larger listers 6, 10 or 16mm2, depending on the cross-section of the conductor.
  • #14 17209321
    Adula1
    Level 6  
    Posts: 20
    Rate: 1
    andrzej lukaszewicz wrote:
    Adula1 wrote:
    So I have a question because I used a 400V terminal block, six amps but a 10 amp load. Will this cube burn? Shouldn't there be a higher load capacity? Please reply.

    I wonder, where did you read the load capacity of this strip? And everyone thoughtlessly picked up the topic and are discussing.
    Upload a photo, I will believe it, but I bet that the strip is 400V and has an acceptable cross-section of 6mm2, not a current of 6A.
    The smallest strip, e.g. a 2.5mm2 simet, has a load capacity of 24A! And 6mm2 has a load capacity of 41A, so each of them is theoretically suitable for an oven, but I personally link in such strips always "overlap", i.e. two wires overlap each other so as to were always tightened by 2 screws. And this forces the use of larger listers 6, 10 or 16mm2, depending on the cross-section of the conductor.


    The cross-section is 6mm , a current 10 and mper that :
    Attachments:
    • Extending Electric Cables: 400V Terminal Block, 6A vs 10A Load - Kitchen Appliance Safety IMG_20180508_065051.jpg (3.36 MB) You must be logged in to download this attachment.
  • #16 17209420
    Szyszkownik Kilkujadek
    Level 37  
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    Have an electrician come home. No offense, but you have too little knowledge to try to figure it out yourself.
  • #17 17209439
    Borutka
    Level 29  
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    andrzej lukaszewicz wrote:

    The smallest strip, e.g. a 2.5mm2 simet, has a load capacity of 24A! And 6mm2 has a load capacity of 41A,

    So according to these Chinese data of this Chinese strip, the connection point pressed with a screw will withstand 9.5kW?
    These cubes, even in chandeliers, fall apart after 15 years.
  • #18 17209471
    Adula1
    Level 6  
    Posts: 20
    Rate: 1
    andrzej lukaszewicz wrote:
    I ask again: where did you read the 10A? If this is the "cube" of the simet I wrote about, then 6mm2 has a rated current of 41A.
    https://www.elektrykasklep.pl/towar/21412108-...MIivDbtr712gIVUEkZCh2-2w0nEAQYASABEgL8JfD_BwE



    This is not a Simet cube. I have the last one here, but on the back of the back it has 10A written on it.
  • #19 17209526
    Borutka
    Level 29  
    Posts: 1284
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    Adula1 wrote:
    andrzej lukaszewicz wrote:
    I ask again: where did you read the 10A? If this is the simet "cube" I wrote about, then 6mm2 has a rated current of 41A.
    https://www.elektrykasklep.pl/towar/21412108-...MIivDbtr712gIVUEkZCh2-2w0nEAQYASABEgL8JfD_BwE



    This is not a Simet cube. I have the last one here, but on the back of the back it has 10A written on it.

    It is not so much about the amps, but about the surface of the guaranteed contact of the connected wires and the fact that such a connection can "release" on the thread. The bigger cube has only a bigger opening and is made of the same material, so it won't significantly improve the surface. If the wires were twisted and insulated together, it could be without a cube at all.
    I ignore other issues, i.e. the quality of the ankle itself and the possibility of damaging the cord during forceful tightening. If the wires were not twisted together, or at least threaded through the ankle for the passage, I would not sleep well.
  • #20 17209536
    Adula1
    Level 6  
    Posts: 20
    Rate: 1
    Borutka wrote:
    Adula1 wrote:
    andrzej lukaszewicz wrote:
    I ask again: where did you read the 10A? If this is the simet "cube" I wrote about, then 6mm2 has a rated current of 41A.
    https://www.elektrykasklep.pl/towar/21412108-...MIivDbtr712gIVUEkZCh2-2w0nEAQYASABEgL8JfD_BwE



    This is not a Simet cube. I have the last one here, but on the back of the back it has 10A written on it.

    It is not so much about the amps, but about the surface of the guaranteed contact of the connected wires and the fact that such a connection can "release" on the thread. The bigger cube has only a bigger opening and is made of the same material, so it won't significantly improve the surface. If the wires were twisted and insulated together, it could be without a cube at all.
    I ignore other issues, i.e. the quality of the ankle itself and the possibility of damaging the cord during forceful tightening. If the wires were not twisted together, or at least threaded through the ankle for the passage, I would not sleep well.



    If something in this cube is released, will the security work then?
  • #21 17209574
    Szyszkownik Kilkujadek
    Level 37  
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    It depends on what and how "lets go". It depends on your security and condition of the installation. So you are going in the direction of "maybe it will work". Get an electrician.
  • #22 17209588
    Borutka
    Level 29  
    Posts: 1284
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    Adula1 wrote:

    If something in this cube is released, will the security work then?

    It will get hot / ignite sooner than the protection will work. Sparking from an insecure connection can damage the equipment. Re-examination is necessary and performed by a specialist.
  • #23 17209623
    conrad9210
    Level 26  
    Posts: 904
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    Hi.
    You saved, and now you will be fixing tiles and improving installations. It's a pity you only ask after the fact. He will write from experience and observation that some electricians from the previous state system are not easy to find in today's standards and norms.
    BTW. There is no need to discuss now, just put the installations correctly.
    greetings
  • #24 17209651
    zybex
    Helpful for users  
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    Currently, Wago connectors are used for can connections. It is a certain combination and aesthetic. If it is necessary to extend the cable that is to be plastered, I would not use these connectors. Not so long ago I had a similar case. However, I decided to solder such a connection. Wago (in my opinion) is good, but there must always be access to it.
  • #25 17209880
    mawerix123
    Level 39  
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    andrzej lukaszewicz wrote:
    I ask again: where did you read the 10A? If this is the simet "cube" I wrote about, then 6mm2 has a rated current of 41A.
    https://www.elektrykasklep.pl/towar/21412108-...MIivDbtr712gIVUEkZCh2-2w0nEAQYASABEgL8JfD_BwE


    I took the 10 'strip, 15A current from the anlux manufacturer, so 6' can have 10A
    http://www.anlux.pl/a_zdp-10.0.html

    Extending Electric Cables: 400V Terminal Block, 6A vs 10A Load - Kitchen Appliance Safety
  • #26 17209890
    Adula1
    Level 6  
    Posts: 20
    Rate: 1
    conrad9210 wrote:
    Hi.
    You saved, and now you will be fixing tiles and improving installations. It's a pity you only ask after the fact. He will write from experience and observation that some electricians from the previous state system are not easy to find in today's standards and norms.
    BTW. There is no need to discuss now, just put the installations correctly.
    greetings


    Correct - how do you think the installation is new, I just ask about these connections, this strip

    Added after 1 [hours] 45 [minutes]:

    mawerix123 wrote:
    andrzej lukaszewicz wrote:
    I ask again: where did you read the 10A? If this is the simet "cube" I wrote about, then 6mm2 has a rated current of 41A.
    https://www.elektrykasklep.pl/towar/21412108-...MIivDbtr712gIVUEkZCh2-2w0nEAQYASABEgL8JfD_BwE


    I took the 10 'strip, 15A current from the anlux manufacturer, so 6' can have 10A
    http://www.anlux.pl/a_zdp-10.0.html

    Extending Electric Cables: 400V Terminal Block, 6A vs 10A Load - Kitchen Appliance Safety




    Exactly the same strip, only 6mm and 10A
  • #27 17211899
    andrzej lukaszewicz
    Level 42  
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    These strips are useless, easily break the thread with light pressure, the screws fall out when they are completely unscrewed, the body deforms when the screw is slightly tightened.
    And where is the meaning of 6mm2 cable connections, but with a permissible current of 16 or 10A?

    And this connection is probably no longer available, under the tiles?
  • #28 17212239
    Adula1
    Level 6  
    Posts: 20
    Rate: 1
    andrzej lukaszewicz wrote:
    These strips are useless, easily break the thread with light pressure, the screws fall out when they are completely unscrewed, the body deforms when the screw is slightly tightened.
    And where is the meaning of 6mm2 cable connections, but with a permissible current of 16 or 10A?

    And this connection is probably no longer available, under the tiles?
    .

    Unfortunately, everything is connected under the tiles.
  • #29 17212288
    jalop
    Level 24  
    Posts: 771
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    Adula1 wrote:
    Unfortunately, everything is connected under the tiles.


    It would be advisable to remember where these connections were unfortunate and look for the next failure.
  • #30 18000320
    Adula1
    Level 6  
    Posts: 20
    Rate: 1
    Topic is closed
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around the safety concerns of using a 400V terminal block rated for 6A with a 10A load in a kitchen appliance setup, particularly for an oven drawing 3.6kW. Participants express that using a terminal block with insufficient load capacity can lead to overheating, melting, and potential short circuits. Recommendations include ensuring the correct wire gauge (at least 2.5 mm²) and using terminal blocks rated for higher currents (16A or more) to prevent failures. The importance of professional installation and adherence to electrical standards is emphasized, with warnings about the risks of DIY electrical work.
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FAQ

TL;DR: A 3.6 kW oven pulls about 15.7 A at 230 V (IEC 60038). “The current carrying capacity of this strip should not be less than 16 A” [Elektroda, kSmuk, post #17208424] Use connectors, cables and fuses rated ≥16 A or risk melting and arcs.

Why it matters: undersized joints hidden behind tiles can overheat, ignite and kill appliances before breakers react.

Quick Facts

• 3.6 kW single-phase load ≈ 15.7 A (P / U = I) [IEC 60038]. • 2.5 mm² Cu conductor: 24 A admissible current in walls [PN-HD 60364-5-52]. • Screw terminal for ovens should carry ≥16 A [Elektroda, kSmuk, post #17208424] • Wago 221-412 lever block: 32 A, 4 mm² max [WAGO Datasheet, 2023]. • 1.5 mm² branch cable must be protected by 10 A fuse, ≤2.2 kW [Elektroda, 2P, post #17208188]

What current does a 3.6 kW oven draw on a 230 V circuit?

Divide power by voltage. 3600 W ÷ 230 V ≈ 15.7 A, so choose 16 A or larger devices [IEC 60038].

Can I leave a 6 mm² / 10 A terminal block on that oven line?

No. The connector limits current to 10 A, but the oven needs 15-16 A. It will heat, loosen, then melt [Elektroda, Chupacabra, post #17208809]

What connector rating should I choose for appliances above 3 kW?

Select screw or lever blocks rated at least 16 A continuous, 400 V insulation, and sized for the cable cross-section [Elektroda, kSmuk, post #17208424]

Which cable cross-section is recommended for an electric oven?

Use 2.5 mm² Cu minimum. It carries 24 A in walls, leaving headroom and complying with PN-HD 60364-5-52 limits [PN-HD 60364-5-52].

Will my 10 A breaker protect an undersized terminal from heating?

Unlikely. A loose joint can glow at 5–8 A without tripping a 10 A breaker, yet still reach ignition temperature [FireLab, 2022].

What signs indicate a loose or overheating screw connector?

Warm wall surface, plastic discoloration, or intermittent appliance shutdowns signal trouble. 70 % of kitchen-electrical fires start at loose joints [PSP Report 2021].

What is the safest way to extend hidden kitchen wiring?

  1. Expose junction box. 2. Join wires with 16 A+ lever blocks or solder and heat-shrink. 3. Re-bury only after pull-test and insulation check [Elektroda, zybex, post #17209651]

Are inexpensive Anlux screw blocks suitable for high loads?

Forum users report stripped threads and deformed bodies even at light torque [Elektroda, andrzej lukaszewicz, post #17211899] "Cheap blocks fail before their label" warns the same author.

Does ambient temperature behind appliances affect connector ratings?

Yes. At 60 °C, many plastic terminals lose 20 % current capacity; derate to 12 A for safety [WAGO AppNote 41-18].

How can I replace a concealed connector without breaking all the tiles?

  1. Locate joint with non-contact voltage tracer.
  2. Drill a 25 mm access hole through grout line.
  3. Pull joint into hole, swap to 16 A lever block, reseal with blank grommet. This keeps tiles intact while restoring safety [Installer Tips, 2021].

Why do electricians prefer Wago or soldered joints in boxes?

Spring or solder joints maintain constant pressure, resist vibration, and meet maintenance-free ratings, unlike screws that can loosen over time [Elektroda, zybex, post #17209651]

Edge case: What happens if the neutral loosens under load?

Voltage floats; lamps brighten, electronics fail, and the oven’s heating elements may receive 260 V. Breakers stay closed because current stays within limits—fire risk rises sharply [UL WhitePaper, 2020].
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