Connecting the oven to a 230V installation in the kitchen is one thing, but ...

Hello,
I have a question about connecting an oven, approx. 3kW, 230V.
My problem is whether the oven can be connected via an extension cord (of course adequately durable - I've seen those with a peak power> 3600W, which is quite enough) or possibly a long, suitably good cable?
The problem is that the oven will be below the level of the cupboards and there are no sockets there . There are 2 sockets in the wall, but one is too far from the oven and the other is too high. There is no possibility of chipping the glaze etc .. The only thing I can do is pull the cable, but is it possible?
I would like to forget: this is to connect the hob (gas - so no load here) and the oven!

Another question I have is: will the oven be connected to the same, regular 230V socket in the kitchen, at the same time it will be possible to connect the refrigerator (one socket only fits the refrigerator - this is the one that will not be visible behind the cabinets, the other one is unfortunately in the center and all cables will be visible).
Currently, an oven was connected to the usual socket and everything was fine (it was several times so that the kettle was also turned on together with the oven, i.e. power consumption approx. 5000W - nothing happened, but I always warn you against such a situation).
Advise what to buy and how to deal with this situation.
Thanks and regards

Thank you very much!

Jerzy Bartnicki wrote:

Please consider the installation of a cable masking tray that can be mounted near the floor.

Great, no problem with that. I even thought about it.
I am very glad you can do that.

Jerzy Bartnicki wrote:

The cable is one thing, but the big problem with this power will be the plug + socket.

I was afraid of this. I have in front of me some legrand extension cord that I bought so that it would be (you never know if it will not be needed) - there is a caveat on it max 3500W, but I saw a bit stronger in the store today - I am thinking about buy (use a cable with a plug) and make a double socket for a hob and an oven behind the cabinets - am I correct? Alternatively, buy a cable and a CORRECT plug (but what?)
I am looking for sockets and plugs.

f.pawlo wrote:

my41s wrote:

I have a question about connecting an oven, approx. 3kW, 230V.

Such a device must have a separate protection - a separate circuit (required from 2 kW)
And there is no strength point colleague in the kitchen to use him for this purpose and possibly connect this "appropriate extension" there? Nothing, a colleague does not write to what socket he wants to connect ... on what security this socket works ...

Answering the question: the kitchen has a separate circuit (I don't remember exactly - installation switch - S191 probably 20A, residual-current circuit breaker 25A), but the oven itself will not have its own fuse (unless behind the cabinets).
There is no power socket (no one thought about it a few years ago )
I am going to replace the socket - now there is an ordinary, most ordinary socket, up to 3500W - a refrigerator is connected to it and another one - an oven or a kettle.

Arturo2005 wrote:

my41s wrote:

make a double socket for the hob and oven behind the cabinets

Since it is behind the cabinets, you can attach a junction box and connect it all through the terminals in the box.

Right. There is nothing to advise on the forum - you will always help!

f.pawlo wrote:

my41s wrote:

but the oven itself will not have its own fuse (unless behind cabinets).

Why does the oven need an additional fuse? The fuse is already there - the one that powers the circuit.
Bad friend understood. If the socket to which you want to connect this oven is not used by other powerful appliances, use them. But as a colleague advised above - use a can and make connections in this can. You will not worry afterwards that the plug or socket is melted ..

OK - my mistake. I misunderstood. A refrigerator will be connected to this socket (I will see how much power it needs). Now I think, not to connect the refrigerator also through a junction box (after all, everything will be hidden) and omit the sockets completely.

f.pawlo wrote:

my41s wrote:

Now I think, not to connect the refrigerator also through a junction box (after all, everything will be hidden) and omit the sockets completely.

I wouldn't connect the refrigerator to a can. When a powerful storm comes, I disconnect such a device and others from the socket. And if I had a refrigerator attached to a can, it would be embarrassing. Doesn't my friend think?

He thinks, the court, but ...: only if it is all behind the fridge, I have no chance to turn it off anyway - now it is like that and when there is a storm, I turn off all the switches except the light and only then do I feel safe

f.pawlo wrote:

my41s wrote:

He thinks, the court, but ...: only if it's all behind the fridge, I don't have a chance to turn it off anyway - now it is like that too and when there is a storm, I turn off everything except the overhead light and only then do I feel safe

A colleague may also leave one socket for this refrigerator, so as not to cut the plug unnecessarily. And next to it a can. Anyway ... make it as comfortable as possible - as long as it was safe. This is the most important point. Best regards.

The truth - safety above all!

Come back: I got a bit of a hitch with that can in front of the fridge - I didn't think the cables sticking out of the wall would be too short for this type of operation. I will leave a socket there - what kind of socket, preferably flush-mounted, double, or single, can you recommend? - is there enough of the better 3680W - "stronger" ones I haven't seen yet? Load max. is 3kW (oven) + 150W fridge + hob approx. 5W = 3155W
Let me ask you one more time: is the "INSTALLATION CABLE copper YDYp 3x2.5 mm? 450 / 750V" enough?

f.pawlo wrote:

As for the short wires that make it impossible to mount the box, it can be done:
You turn off the electricity. You disassemble the socket. in its place, you install a surface-mounted box. If the wires do not go into the box, you can give a longer one using terminal blocks and when you have the wires in the box, you attach the oven with cubes. Install a surface-mounted socket next to the box and take the power supply from the box. And so you have an oven plugged into a tin and a refrigerator plugged into a socket. Easy.

Simple solutions are the best.

f.pawlo wrote:

And what fuse does a colleague have for this socket? 20A? Because, as you wrote above, equipment such as a 230V socket has a strength of 16A. I am not talking about the 3 * 2.5mm2 cable and the way it is arranged and its length.

The fuse is S191 B16 - 16A. Before that, I did not look, I wrote from memory.
I have 2 solutions to my problem. I will draw them all on paper, I will give you what you need, etc. I will use your ideas - because they are good and simple. Thank you again.

I wonder about the cable: is it better to buy a cable separately or buy a good extension cord (the one I have Legranda has a very thick cable and a solid plug, strength 16A ~ 3680W) and have a nice, good, ready plug.
From what I learned, the oven itself has a 3 * 1.5mm2 wire (according to the instructions, the replacement wires for the oven are: H05VV-F, H05RR-F - 3 * 1.5mm2), so this should be enough. The oven is not used very often, it is rather festive, so far everything worked on an ordinary, cheap socket and nothing happened. But I am extremely allergic to electricity and wherever something meets the standard, I prefer it to be a little better

Gregory_bg wrote:

understand you can make a new circuit? how do you do it.

I would prefer it, but there is no possibility.

f.pawlo wrote:

(...) there is no need to think about it, because all these discussions are starting to run into space unnecessarily.

Exactly.
I watched everything and the best solution is a normal double socket to which the refrigerator will be connected and a cable (3 * 2.5mm2) led through a tray at the floor to the oven and the plate, while these will be connected via a junction box behind the cabinets or under the oven (easier access in if necessary).
I consider the matter closed, unless someone wants to warn me that this cannot be done.

Well, I still have a small question: I chose another oven, but this one requires a connection power of 3600W! (which does not mean that it will be drawing that much all the time - most likely 3600W for 5-10 minutes, then about 3000W). In connection with the above, I do not know what to choose a good socket and plug - I understand the 3x2.5 cable is enough? In my opinion, such a standard 16A plug may be too tight, the socket too. As for color, etc. - it doesn't matter - it will be behind the fridge anyway

hakers_95 wrote:

In my opinion, the 16A socket is enough (Just do not buy Chinese gits ** which will flow at 14A despite the fact that it has 16A written), these 3.6kW are probably data for all the goodies in the oven (hot air, heater up and down, etc. .) Rather rarely (if you know) you use it all at once. 3x2.5mm? wire will be ok,

As I wrote, these 3600W gets at maximum settings or with fast heating, so it is worth protecting yourself.
I will go to the electrical equipment store to get all the things and choose a decent socket (now I have a legrand for the kettle and everything is fine - the kettle and iron were turned on more than once, i.e. ~ 3600W or the kettle and oven ~ 3700W). I promise, the last question already: is the normal 16A plug enough also?

I already translate ...
The oven and gas hob will be connected to a junction box (according to the suggestion - as above) to which I will bring electricity through the cord from the socket behind the refrigerator (the socket I will buy will be connected to the fridge + oven with the plate) and hence the need for a plug, I cannot pull the wires from the wall and from under the glaze. to connect the refrigerator and this cable to the box - there must be a double socket and a plug for the cable.

Thanks a lot for the answers. I close the case and go shopping tomorrow.