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Blaupunkt LED TV - No backlight, LEDs repaired but still nothing

wentyl215 12381 19
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Treść została przetłumaczona polish » english Zobacz oryginalną wersję tematu
  • #1 17225956
    wentyl215
    Level 19  
    I have enough of a "heavy" TP board. MSD309.BP85 - generally it is a Blaupunkt Bla-40 / 133L-WB-5B2-FHBKU_EU TV with LSC400HM06 matrix. On the TV everything works, except for the matrix's backlight (there is sound, the matrix displays the image, etc.).

    I got used to the backlight, giving +/- 25V for each of the four LED strips. Two of them did not shine, so, going one by one, came the exchange of a total of three pieces.

    Currently, when giving 25V for each strip, all the LEDs light up, so it should be OK - unfortunately, virtually no improvement, while switching on, there is still no backlight. The board has two separate sockets for leds, STBy is 35V, and when switched on it jumps at about 90V and after a while drops to 35V - as far as I know, this is typical for backlight damage, which I fixed, although I know that it would be appropriate to provide external voltage probably 60V to check if they ignite in a set (60V for two stripes) - unfortunately I do not have too much to organize such a voltage, I would like someone to give me an idea for external power supply, and generally for the repair of this TV.
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  • #2 17226381
    zdzich42
    Level 41  
    And the slats are connected in what way? There are sometimes breaks at the joints.
  • #3 17227178
    wentyl215
    Level 19  
    At the junctions everything looks fine, I think it would be good to give 60V for one and the other plug to check whether both pairs will ignite, only the maximum voltage I have is 30V, I wonder where and how to organize such a voltage.

    Blaupunkt LED TV - No backlight, LEDs repaired but still nothing
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  • #5 17227233
    piotrus196
    Level 10  
    wentyl215 wrote:
    Everything looks fine on the connectors, I think I should give 60V for both plugs to see if both pairs will ignite, only the maximum voltage what I have is 30V, I wonder where and how to organize such tension.

    On the familiar website at our friendów there are testers for LEDs and that's what normal work is now.
  • #6 17227353
    wentyl215
    Level 19  
    Do you mean something like the iFix RT300M?

    Until then you could think about some temporary solution and connection, but thanks to ;)
  • #7 17227953
    czajnik23
    Level 22  
    Something like this, I have one with volt and amper display, additionally led current change.
  • #8 17228228
    Adewag
    Level 21  
    wentyl215 wrote:
    Currently giving 25V for each bar all LEDs are on fire so it should already be OK

    Together or separately they will shine from an external power supply, even if you find one on 100V. You have damaged the other LEDs, or at least one (with an efficient driver and connections). To find a damaged diode, supply each string separately with 25V and start gradually reducing the voltage. Diodes that will turn off or will be less shining than others should be replaced.
  • #9 17228736
    wentyl215
    Level 19  
    Thanks for the hint, I'll check it in a while, by the way I wanted to ask for a driver - will it be UB10 on this CD? OB3350? What tensions are to be on individual feet?

    Well, the issue of stabilizers, because one of them - UL1 (1117B) when turning on the TV lets go from 1 leg (GND) to VOUT, it means a transition. Other stabilizers, including those identical under UL11, do not have this symptom.

    Another thing is the diode DB13, which goes two ways (diode test), after desoldering it turned out that the diode is OK, the transition between the soldering fields DB13 also present without a diode.
  • #10 17228955
    bogred
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl
    wentyl215 wrote:
    I wanted to ask for a driver - will it be UB10 on this disc? OB3350?

    Ask Google.
  • #11 17229181
    wentyl215
    Level 19  
    bogred wrote:
    wentyl215 wrote:
    I wanted to ask for a driver - on this disc will it be UB10? OB3350?

    Ask Google.


    I asked and confirmed, but I prefer to ask and make sure ;)
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  • #12 17229198
    bogred
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl
    Just to this system, complete documentation is available and it is easy to find. And now - act.
  • #13 17229339
    mirex
    Level 43  
    wentyl215 wrote:
    And the issue of stabilizers, because one of them - UL1 (1117B) when turning on the TV lets go from 1 leg (GND) to VOUT, it means is the transition.
    wentyl215 wrote:
    Another thing is the DB13 diode , which goes two ways (diode test), after desoldering it turned out that the diode is OK, the transition between the DB13 soldering fields also present without a diode.
    < br />
    bogred wrote:
    And now - act.

    With such knowledge? ;)

    As I reported, that the topic underestimates the level, if only because of the wrong title of the topic, but not only, you overested me. ;)
  • #14 17230146
    wentyl215
    Level 19  
    Thanks for the transfer - if I'm in the right place, could anyone help me with the topic?
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  • #16 17231990
    gradek83
    Level 43  
    It depends on how many diodes there is on the strip and on what voltage is the diode I usually check each separately for two sharp tweezers, connect the power supply and pierce lightly with the laminate in the pads or to check the whole strip I attach power supply from an HP full-size printer it has 32V 940mA and 16V 625mA and with a 32-inch backlight it's enough to light up all one strip.
  • #17 17242231
    wentyl215
    Level 19  
    gradek83 wrote:
    It depends on how many diodes there is on the strip and what voltage the diode is usually in, or I check each one separately for two sharp tweezers, plug in the power supply and pierce it lightly laminate in the case or to check the entire strip podinam Zasilacz from the HP printer on full recycling it has 32V 940mA and 16V 625mA and with 32-inch backlight is enough to ignite the entire one strip.


    Thanks for the answer, although I mentioned that the 30V voltage I have, where I wrote, that each strip is lit (4 strips probably 10 leds) - the strips are connected in pairs and should be given 60V - I will come back to the subject next week.
  • #18 17473872
    kiko_tychy
    Level 15  
    Welcome.
    I have a similar problem with LEDs on Blaupunkt TV.
    I wanted to use "LED module 3 diodes at 12V" 8 pcs of such modules, that is 96V, but it does not work. :(
    When the TV starts up, about 100V diodes are flashing and that's all in the subject. 38V as much as on STB.

    Any ideas? Does the driver have to see any particular resistance?
  • #19 17474610
    czajnik23
    Level 22  
    You disassemble the panel and you will see how many defective LEDs. I am trying to exchange for new ones. The possibility of corrections and re-disassembly of panel pozdr is minimized.
  • #20 17476324
    Adewag
    Level 21  
    kiko_tychy wrote:
    Does the driver need to see any particular resistance?

    The driver has to "see" a certain number of LEDs with specific parameters for a given backlight model.
    kiko_tychy wrote:
    "LED module 3 diodes at 12V
    Combinations - :not:

Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around a Blaupunkt LED TV (model Bla-40 / 133L-WB-5B2-FHBKU_EU) experiencing backlight failure despite the sound and image functioning correctly. The user has replaced several LEDs in the backlight strips but still encounters no improvement. Suggestions include checking the connections of the LED strips, using an external power supply to test the LEDs, and ensuring the driver recognizes the correct number of LEDs. Various users recommend using LED testers and provide links to products that could assist in diagnosing the issue. The conversation also touches on the importance of identifying any damaged LEDs and the need for specific voltage levels for testing.

FAQ

TL;DR: Backlight dead? Power each strip directly (32V, 0.94A lights a 32-inch strip); "I usually check each separately." Use this FAQ to test, source safe voltage, and revive Blaupunkt backlights. [Elektroda, gradek83, post #17231990]

Why it matters: It helps DIYers and bench techs diagnose and repair Blaupunkt LED backlights faster without guesswork.

Quick Facts

Why does my Blaupunkt backlight spike to ~90V then fall back to ~35V?

The boost converter starts, raises LED+ near 90V, then senses an open or weak string. It shuts down to standby, around 35V. This points to at least one bad LED, a bad joint, or a mismatched load on a channel. Verify each strip independently before chasing the driver. Measure at the two LED connectors during power-on for confirmation. [Elektroda, wentyl215, post #17225956]

What’s the quickest safe way to test TV LED strips?

Use a purpose-built LED backlight tester. Units rated 110–265V can light single strips or full chains without the TV’s PSU. They simplify isolating a bad string and reduce bench wiring errors. [Elektroda, zdzich42, post #17231841]

How can I light a single strip with common parts?

Use an HP full-size printer power supply. It provides 32V at 0.94A, plus 16V at 0.625A. The 32V rail is enough to light a single 32-inch TV strip. Use sharp probes on pads or clip leads carefully to avoid shorts. [Elektroda, gradek83, post #17231990]

How do I find a weak LED when all light on the bench?

Use a controlled drop test to expose the weak point.
  1. Power one string at 25V so all LEDs light.
  2. Gradually lower the voltage while watching brightness uniformity.
  3. Replace any LED that turns off early or glows dimmer.
As one expert said, "supply each string separately with 25V and start gradually reducing the voltage." [Elektroda, Adewag, post #17228228]

Can I power both strip pairs at about 60V to check them together?

Yes. These sets pair strips on two connectors. Users propose testing each connector around 60V to confirm both pairs ignite. If you lack a 60V supply, use a backlight tester that reaches that voltage. Limit current while probing. [Elektroda, wentyl215, post #17227178]

Can I replace the backlight with 12V 3‑LED signage modules?

No. The driver expects a defined count of LEDs with specific forward voltage and current. Mismatched modules can trigger protection and shutdown. "The driver has to 'see' a certain number of LEDs with specific parameters." Use original-type strips or equivalent LEDs. [Elektroda, Adewag, post #17476324]

On startup I see about 100V flash and then 38V standby. What does that tell me?

The boost starts and then shuts down due to a load mismatch. One case used eight 12V modules (96V total) and saw ~100V flash, then 38V standby. Return to proper strips and verify each string’s continuity and load. [Elektroda, kiko_tychy, post #17473872]

Are connector joints a common failure point on these slats?

Yes. Breaks at inter-strip joints and connectors can open a string. Inspect and reflow those joints before deeper board work. Wiggle-test the harnesses at both LED sockets while watching voltage behavior. [Elektroda, zdzich42, post #17226381]

Should I disassemble the panel and replace only bad LEDs now?

Yes. Open the panel, find all weak or dead LEDs, and replace them in one pass. This minimizes the chance of a second disassembly. Test each string after reassembly for uniform light and stability. [Elektroda, czajnik23, post #17474610]

Which LED driver IC is on MSD309.BP85, and what should I check?

The LED driver is marked UB10 on this board. Users report it as OB3350. Review its datasheet for enable, PWM dimming, and current-sense pins before measuring. Confirm the marking and consult the documentation. [Elektroda, wentyl215, post #17229181]

Why does a diode like DB13 read both ways, or an 1117 LDO show GND‑Vout continuity?

In-circuit readings can mislead due to parallel paths. The DB13 pads still showed continuity with the diode removed. The 1117B at UL1 measured ground-to-Vout continuity during power-up. Lift parts or isolate pads to verify genuine faults. [Elektroda, wentyl215, post #17228736]

My strips light at 25–30V externally, but the TV still has no backlight. Why?

External supplies can light strings even when one LED is marginal. The TV driver senses imbalance or insufficient headroom and shuts down. "Together or separately they will shine from an external power supply." Replace the weak diode using the voltage‑reduction test. [Elektroda, Adewag, post #17228228]

How many strips and LEDs does the Bla‑40/133L use?

A field report notes four strips, about ten LEDs per strip, with strips paired per connector. Each strip lit at 25–30V during bench tests. Use ~60V to check a pair if required. [Elektroda, wentyl215, post #17242231]

Are LED testers worth buying for this repair?

Yes. Community members describe LED testers as the normal way to work now. They validate strips and arrays quickly without risky improvised setups, speeding diagnosis and reducing repeat disassembly. [Elektroda, piotrus196, post #17227233]

What tester features help me avoid damaging LEDs?

Pick a tester with volt and amp display and adjustable current. Limiting current reduces stress while probing long strings. A current knob also reveals a weak diode as brightness sags sooner than neighbors. [Elektroda, czajnik23, post #17227953]
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