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LG 39LN5400 - No backlight matrix, the voice is, the image content is also.

DamianRTV 16827 8
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  • #1 16686197
    DamianRTV
    Level 27  
    I warmly welcome my TV professors here.

    I got an LG LED TV (for some).
    - LGP3739-13PL1 power supply,
    - HC390DUN-VCFP1-21XX matrix
    I would like to fix it, but after measuring and replacing the electrolytes in the power supply, I came to the conclusion that everything is ok. Voltage is correct. I dismantled the matrix and it turns out that 6 burned LEDs burned in different rows of LED strips - all connected in series.
    After exchanging 6 broken for other not original but strong leds, it affected the eye. 20 min
    I disassembled the matrix again ... it turned out that 4 others fell.
    Without waiting and exchanging another 2 or 4 years warmed up, I ordered the original on one of the leds portals.

    LED MATRIX LED - LG 3528/2835 - 3V - 1W LG 39LN5400 - No backlight matrix, the voice is, the image content is also.

    I desoldered (with a hot air heat gun), removed all the "old" ones and replaced them with new ones (carefully and quickly so as not to overheat the led - salomon soldering iron)

    After switching the TV on, it worked for 5 minutes and 3 LEDs burned out, after soldering new ones, it turned out that the next LED is burning, the black dot is burning, the smoke is on, I turned off the TV. The voltage at the connection plug led supply was 121V ÷ 36 diodes = 3.36V per unit.
    Then the voltage dropped to 119V.
    But why did I have 134V on old diodes? Then it dropped to 121V and shone less (automatic light intensity control worked)
    I read something about plug-in bulbs I had 120V on a 40W bulb.

    My nice professors :please: what to do because I spent over PLN 80 on leds, new items or can you somehow change the LED backlight driver to reduce the voltage, give it to yourself and buy new led strips, but I don't want to have drugs because after 2/4 years they fall so I wanted to solder new or new strips.

    Hmm or I still have some fault in the LED power supply - where to start? :sm9: Because I will order new ones and they will also fall.

    I am asking for an answer or advice - thank you in advance - I greet Damiano from Katowice as usual.
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  • Helpful post
    #2 16687548
    lisek
    Service technician RTV
    SM power supply link
    For your model (HC390DUN-VCFP1 matrix) is LGP3739-13PL1 (pcb: EAX64905301 (2.3))

    is SM pod
    LGP32-13PL1 (pcb: EAX64905001) / EAY62810301
    IC801 MAP3202SIRH driver LED
    IC202 NR891D PWM Step-down 24/12
    IC101 SSC1S311A
    Scheme (lg-eay62810301-lgp32-13pl1) once again with additions from Spanish forum link


    LED SMD 3528 LEDs
    * on (aliexpress) 100pcs / lot-1210-3528-SMD-LED-Ultra-Bright-White-Light-Diode
    It costs around $ 2.

    On the plate you have written what is supposed to be nap. for ver.39 "(unless 133.2V 370 mA)
    * I think that the value of 118..120 V is completely free for LEDs
    * Ver. 32 "to 70V

    I will share the war. Vled by the number of LEDs (36) it comes out over 3.5V per diode
    * not very good for LED 3528
    The current limit is the divider R430 R432 R433 R434 .......
    Reduction of flowing current through LED is (resistors) in S field Q802
    - valid voltages on pin 8 (REF) and 13-pin (FBP) MAP3202

    LG 39LN5400 - No backlight matrix, the voice is, the image content is also.

    The values
    R804 = 10k and R811 = 51k in PSU ver. 32 "
    R804 = 10k and R811 = 75k ... for 42 "
    * in the matrix 42 there are more LEDs, bigger voltage and Iled
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  • #3 16687743
    DamianRTV
    Level 27  
    Thank you fox for your time. very useful post for me:
    https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic3165965.html

    And it seemed to me that I bought the same leds, that there were three reasons:
    1 - bad soldered and does not touch well, which dissipates heat badly (although I tried, it does not solder like a factory ...)
    2 - broken in themselves ... and 3 - this ??? not justified.

    I'm afraid that when I buy NEW tapes it can be the same effect as I have now, burning and glowing diodes.

    I also gave a 100 W 3 W resistor in the branch - it went almost smoke - blackened a little after 5 min. So I have to focus on the resistance from the transistor Q402 to ground.
    Did I count the resistance to ground from this transistor well about 6.2ohms?
    I will increase it - well, if I do not overdo it, how much can I increase.

    I also use this scheme: https://obrazki.elektroda.pl/2143458400_1455912032.jpg

    Well, for now, I can't think of anything to move on, I read on, maybe I'll read something, it's a shame because I'd watch TV already.
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  • #4 16688563
    krakarak
    Level 42  
    In addition to the diode supply voltage, you could also measure the current through them ...
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  • Helpful post
    #6 16688725
    mirex
    Level 43  
    DamianRTV wrote:
    I also gave a 100 W 3 W resistor in the branch - it went almost smoke - blackened a little after 5 min.

    Then calculate what power it should have at nominal current so that it doesn't smoke. ;)

    And take my word that if you don't have practice and equipment, replacing the diodes will only be a chance by accident. For those like you, the only option is to baste a slat with a piece of another slat and to remove heat from this basting.
    And you still don't know the day and time when the next LED will fail.

    As part of homework, you can work out how efficiently reduce current in this solution. It's worth it! There, everything works at the limit, when the user set the backlight near the maximum.
    You can also - instead of thinking and reading documentation - search the internet because it is described. ;)
  • #7 16692625
    DamianRTV
    Level 27  
    Hello guys, popaki - you will be my authorities anyway, even though you "bite each other", you tease me anyway, your knowledge cannot be matched and I can only count on your advice my nice watchmakers.

    When I come back after the weekend I sit over the TV, for now I can only do purely theoretical calculations of the ohma law, and then a practical solution, well, mirex, I read something else.

    If I can't do it, I can only count on you, Professors ...

    ps. I just wanted to avoid the effect that I would be every 5 min. every 2 weeks he would open the matrix until it ends with the whole matrix - backlighting in pieces - I wanted to save it and immediately replace the bomb with partially used ones.
  • Helpful post
    #8 16729996
    Top Serwis
    Level 24  
    Limit the current flowing through the LEDs by increasing the value of resistors in the transistor source.
  • #9 16737569
    DamianRTV
    Level 27  
    Hello, interested in the topic.
    After increasing the resistance in the source of the Q402 transistor from 2 ohms to 4.1 - theoretically because it is practically 5.6 ohms. The voltage at the led branch terminals is:
    - at startup 116V and 197mA
    -when stabilizing 107V and 177mA, it's still the case.
    The voltage on individual diodes measured on individual diodes is 3.08V and 2.89V.
    For now it shone 15 minutes. The TV turned itself off, probably the timer worked because I did not connect the signal.
    Nothing heats up and does not smoke, so I put the matrix together and now test on Saturday for the whole day of watching.

    - added: 12-10-2017

    TV works, the game is out of the week for about 6 hours a day, it works for now.
    I replaced all the diodes at once so as not to open the matrix xxx times in order to replace the broken diode again. I can enjoy a working and glowing TV again.

    Thank you to everyone who supported me in the repair. Best regards, Damiano.

Topic summary

The discussion revolves around troubleshooting an LG LED TV (model 39LN5400) that exhibits no backlight despite having sound and image content. The user identified issues with the power supply (LGP3739-13PL1) and the LED matrix (HC390DUN-VCFP1-21XX), discovering multiple burned LEDs in the matrix. After replacing several faulty LEDs with non-original ones, further failures occurred, prompting the user to order original LEDs. Participants provided insights on measuring supply voltage and current, suggested increasing resistance to limit current through the LEDs, and emphasized the importance of proper soldering techniques. Ultimately, after replacing all diodes and adjusting resistance values, the TV was successfully restored and operated without overheating or further issues.
Summary generated by the language model.
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